Revolution
Pre-Basel 2018: Patek Unveils 2 New Versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in Rose Gold
Patek Philippe unveils the 5524R (42mm) and 7234R (37.5mm), two new versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, now in rose gold.
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The 1932 Patek reference that set the template for every modern dress watch.
39 mm × 8.08 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 30-255 PS
39 mm × 9.24 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 324 S C
38 mm × 9.44 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 324 S C
Revolution
Patek Philippe unveils the 5524R (42mm) and 7234R (37.5mm), two new versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, now in rose gold.
Time+Tide
The Rolex Cellini range could be described as ‘the Rolex you wear when you don’t want to (be seen to) wear a Rolex’. It is bereft of practically all of the Rolex design codes that make their watches among the easiest in the game to spot at 20 paces. There is no iconic Oyster or Jubilee bracelet to … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Step aside Patrimony and Calatrava, the Rolex Cellini Date is here to take you to your next function appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Hodinkee
At an exclusive dinner in St. Gallen, Switzerland, the Swiss jeweler and watch retailer invited Hodinkee to reveal the new Ipsomatic, a limited-edition platinum timepiece designed by one of the world's most famous architects.
Hodinkee
Is the young independent brand's first round watch a hit?
Revolution
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Hodinkee
Japan has become a mecca for the best vintage Calatravas, but even in a country of the best, Nagayama's passion – and collection – stands out.
Monochrome
If you’re into watches, then the name Gübelin should sound familiar – you’ll probably first think about double-signed vintage Patek Philippe watches, once retailed by this house. Indeed, Gübelin is, first and foremost, a jeweller and watch retailer which has been in the business for over 150 years in Switzerland. Today, Gübelin returns to making […]
Monochrome
Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec and friends, Baltic continues its rapid expansion to the point of not being able to use the term micro-brand anymore… Now an established watch brand with a comprehensive collection, ranging from racing chronographs to dive watches and adventure-themed models, Baltic also ventured into the world of dress watches with […]
Hodinkee
And why each is worth a closer inspection.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Syringe hands! Smooth bezel! Black and tan! And a new home for Patek's traditional hobnail decoration.
Hodinkee
Crosses, office customs, and getting ahead in watch journalism.
Revolution
Hodinkee
Variety is the theme in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Hodinkee
Some unusual picks in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
Hodinkee
And for those who asked for a JLC camera, here you go.
Revolution
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watches, “weird, wonderful, and complicated” rarely mix well with “value,” which makes Xeric such a fun anomaly of a brand. Not afraid of odd-shaped cases, wild colors, and unique ways of telling time, Xeric has forged a catalog unlike any other brand’s. You won’t find vintage divers or Calatrava-esque dress watches among its offerings, or much else that could be considered “on trend.” You will find, however, wandering hours, upside-down movements, jump hours, and retrograde displays, mostly under $2,000, with many under $1,000. The post Introducing the Xeric x Worn & Wound Sector Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
You know, I actually wasn’t going to write about this watch. An $18,000 vintage inspired dive watch from a brand that doesn’t hold a ton of personal relevance to me was just not super high on my list of priorities as Geneva Watch Days prep is now in full swing (this time next week, I will be surviving on CHF 10 Coke Zeros). But, over the weekend the collective watch internet kind of lost its mind over the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition, so I shifted my to-do list around a bit and, well, here we are. Of course, there have been a lot of memes and jokes about this watch sharing a certain similarity to the Seiko 62MAS and the many, many reinterpretations and reissues of that watch over the years. I’m frankly less interested in those aesthetic similarities than I am in the very conceit of this watch, what it illuminates about Blancpain, and the way it fits into the neverending conversation around price sensitivity that we’ve been having for months as we see MSRPs shoot higher and higher. But what I’ll say about the appearance of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe 70th Anniversary Limited Edition is simply that, at this point, 70 years on from the advent of this type of watch, I don’t think any brand really owns the aesthetic identity of something so generic. Lots and lots of watches from all kinds of brands look like this, just like lots and lots of watches look like a Speedmaster, or a Calatrava. The design tropes of these wat...
Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo, the independent Japanese microbrand, is something of an anomaly in a country dominated by big players like Seiko, Orient, Citizen and Grand Seiko. Based in Asakusa, the historical centre of Tokyo, the brand founded by Masami Watanabe produces stylish Calatrava-inspired dress watches at relatively affordable prices. Named after the Japanese word for roof […]
Worn & Wound
I occasionally have a hard time understanding why some brands are so popular. It’s not that they don’t deserve to do well, but I see brands that don’t seem to be doing anything much different from their peers, let alone special, yet are many times more hyped. Why does one Calatrava-esque watch with Breguet numerals outperform another? But with Ōtsuka Lōtec, I get it. In fact, I don’t just get it, I’ve fallen for it. Then again, Ōtsuka Lōtec isn’t like any other brand. Jiro Katayama, the brand’s founder and lead designer/watchmaker, works from a different playbook. Where other brands pursue finishing and neoclassical elegance, he seeks beauty in the raw and industrial. Inspired by analog machines, measuring instruments, gauges, and the industrial design of the pre-digital age, there is something rough and unintentional (though completely intentional) about his watches. Considering he taught himself watchmaking in a workshop nestled in Tokyo, there is a certain logic to this aesthetic. It’s not born in the farm-strewn hills of Jura, but rather in one of the densest cities in the world. Nor is his education from a lineage of tradition. You won’t find perlage or anglage; surfaces are typically raw, brushed metal, and rarely painted, with only the occasional red highlight. While potentially a love-it-or-leave-it aesthetic, it has resonated deeply with the watch community, touching on a pure joy of mechanics. But, there is more to it as well, as his watches...
SJX Watches
Master gunsmith and independent watchmaker Dewey Vicknair returns with a bespoke retrograde hour wristwatch. The American craftsman is a self-taught watch restorer that recently started making timepieces of his own, using just basic tooling. His latest watch was commissioned by a client almost one year ago and the project was completed earlier this month. Initial thoughts There are relatively few artisanal watchmakers still active that limit their output to just a couple of pieces per year. Watchmaking at this scale is not a lucrative proposition, so most independent watchmakers today tend to build for some degree of expansion. This is not the case with Dewey Vicknair, a true artisan who starts with raw sheets of brass and steel and turns the metal into unique timepieces. Along with names like David E. Walter and Jacob Curtis, Dewey Vicknair is one of the few American artisan horologists. His latest delivery is a 39 mm Calatrava-style watch with a fully open-worked dial and endowed with a clever retrograde hour complication. Made at the request of an unnamed collector, the watch features a steel case and is powered by a movement of Mr Vicknair’s own making. The movement in the making. As it was the case with past creations, Mr. Vicknair put together an exhaustive photo essay of his work, which is a recommended read for anyone looking to understand the work required to build a watch from the ground up. Although the look of the watch might not be to everyone’s taste — ...
Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]
Monochrome
Launching a dress watch collection today is not that easy, especially when enthusiasts have already seen decades of Calatrava-inspired cases, engraved dials, and heat-blued hands coming out in every price segment imaginable. But refinement can matter just as much as reinvention. For Sero Watch Company, the goal was not really to create the most original […]
Monochrome
Some watches impress instantly, while others reveal themselves slowly. The Tsunami by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka looks disarmingly simple, especially at first glance: a compact, time-only watch with classical proportions, a sort of high-end Japanese Calatrava, as sleek and discreet as it can be. Spend time with it, and it opens up, becoming a […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Unveiled as part of a slew of new releases for Watches and Wonders 2026, the Patek Philippe 5322G offers a chiming 24-hour alarm complication in a modern case and design, with a new movement and a slightly smaller size than the discontinued model it replaces. The watch is housed in a white gold 41mm Calatrava case that's 12.22mm thick and features hollowed-out lugs, the brand's signature 'Clous de Paris' or "hobnail" guilloché pattern on the case middle, and a single pusher at 2 o'clock. The alarm is programmed through the pusher, and it can be set via the crown in the second position, which the brand says works "intuitively." With a water resistance of 30 meters, Patek says the new 5322G is the only water-resistant chiming watch in the current collection. The new model replaces the Ref. 5520 Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which debuted in 2019 and was inspired by an historical aviator watch in the Patek museum in Geneva. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. The model continues Patek's modern Calatrava style with a textured, lacquered dial in green or blue. The applied Arabic numerals and white-gold, syringe-style hands are both filled with luminescent material, adding to the contemporary feel. A hand display date sits at 6 o'clock, while the double-window aperture of the alarm function sits above the handset at 12 o'clock. Powering the 5322G is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C caliber that chimes the alarm with a single hammer striking a classic gong around the case...
Monochrome
A fairly new brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches,” Kiwame Tokyo has made quite some noise with its first two releases, the Kurotsuki and Usuki models as its inaugural pieces, and the IWAO Field series at the end of last year. Mixing vintage Calatrava elements, […]
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