Results for Caliber 321

The Nomos Metro Gets an Ice Blue Color Scheme and a Brand-New Mechanical Caliber

Earlier this year, I got a whole new appreciation for the Nomos Metro after sitting down with its creator, Mark Braun. The collection first came into the Nomos catalog back in 2014 and debuted the brand’s proprietary swing escapement system, which was developed over seven years with the Fraunhofer Institute and TU Dresden. Form was equally important to function in the original design, featuring a galvanized and silver-plated dial with a soft white color punctuated by black, red, and green markings in an arrangement that subtly played with asymmetry. Over the past 12 years, the Metro has gone on to take many other forms – some ditching the asymmetry by removing the power reserve indicator and shifting the Nomos logo to 12 o’clock and others ditching the white dial for full color alongside versions in rose gold as well as special editions for select markets. Today, we get the next evolution with the Metro Date Power Reserve Ice Blue. True to the collection’s DNA, this new incarnation offers new details both aesthetic and technical, including a brand-new mechanical caliber.With the latest addition to the Metro lineup, we see Nomos continue to use this collection as a launch point for new technical advancements. It marks the first model in the Nomos catalog to house the new hand-wound caliber DUW 4701, which offers a patented quick-set date and a power reserve of up to 52 hours. This entirely new movement continues the story of mechanical innovation that began with the...

Introducing: The Nomos Glashütte Metro Date Power Reserve Gets A New Caliber (Live Pics)

What We Know If you asked me to pick a watch from the catalog that best represents the small but mighty German brand Nomos Glashütte, I'd probably choose the Metro Date Power Reserve. Sure, it's not the distinctive Tangente, nor is it a simple Club Campus. But I think the Metro Date Power Reserve embodies so much of what makes the brand special to me—a beautifully considered, minimalist design by designer Mark Braun, a splash of color to make it interesting, a quirky power reserve indicator, and an in-house manually wound movement with the finishing you'd expect from the brand. That's why I bought mine a few years ago, and I've enjoyed it ever since. However, unlike many other watches in the lineup, the Metro Date Power Reserve is a tricky model to recommend to friends, especially those just starting out in this dangerously addictive space. That's because for all that the watch delivers, it has its Achilles' heel in the form of a non-quickset date. Yes, that means that if you haven't worn the watch in a while and the date is off a bit, you'll need to keep moving the hands back and forth past midnight to advance the date every single time. If you're fifteen days out, it gets tedious, and there's no way around it except to accept that your watch shows the wrong date. Luckily, after more than a decade in production, the model gets a new refresh. Today, Nomos brings a new in-house caliber, DUW 4701, to power the new generation of Metro Date Power Reserve. Most importantly, ...

Introducing: Atelier de Chronométrie's New Chronograph Caliber Is A Stunning Return To The Past

What We Know If you're following artisanal watchmaking with all the flash and hype of the independent space, you're forgiven for missing Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie. Their watches don't often show up on social media, largely because they are entirely bespoke, one-off commissions based on the various architectures they offer. But we've been covering them since 2016, and the product (and potentially their clients' tastes) has gotten better and better. Outstanding, in fact. That's how I'd frame their new AdC16, the company's first two-counter chronograph. If you don't like the design, that's fine—you can customize it however you like—but top-down, movement-to-specs, the watch is really attractive to a vintage lover like myself. Atelier de Chronométrie allows customization of the case and dial, as well as finishing on the movement (a variation of which they are going to share soon, based on this movement), but in this case, they've made a really nice, compact, 36mm Calatrava-style case that is reminiscent (with the dial) of a Vacheron Constantin 4072. The case is two-tone yellow gold and steel and has a black galvanic gilt-style dial (though not actually done the original way, as the press release states; more likely pad-printed), with yellow gold applied markers and hands. The kicker is really the movement. The base design is the venerable Valjoux 23, but they've redesigned the shape of several bridges and levers while trying to keep the entire gear train fe...

Yema’s New Automatic Watch Is A 38mm Stealth Diver With An In-House Caliber

The Yema Navygraf Phantom CMM.10 packs an in-house automatic, 300m water resistance, and a 70-hour power reserve into a 38mm blacked-out case.

Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber

A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...

Introducing: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet Introduces A New Smaller, Reversible Perpetual Calendar Caliber (Live Pics)

Building off of Kurt Klaus' original design, this new generation movement allows crown adjustment of the calendar both forwards and in reverse.

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

I’d like to think I am a bit of a movement nerd. Not in the sense of knowing all of the technical attributes (actually, I wish I knew more there), but rather about what movements are on the market from the major suppliers. Hand me a watch, even with a complication, and I can probably tell you what movement it has in a matter of seconds (assuming it’s mechanical) by the positioning of the hands, complications, rotor bearing, etc. So, last fall, when I was handed a prototype of a new chronograph by Wolbrook and, upon seeing the dial, realized I had no idea what movement it had, my interest was piqued. The watch was the Wolbrook Jetflyer, which I have since had the opportunity to spend more time with. An extension of the French brand’s proven line of tool dive watches based on vintage models, the Jetflyer is their first foray into mechanical chronographs. As the name suggests, the Jetflyer is not meant as a “dive” chronograph, but rather as a pilot’s, though that’s largely semantics, as there are a lot of overlaps in design language (and the WR is 100m). I’ll get back to the particulars of the design, because what really stands out is the movement. $845 Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber Case Stainless Steel Movement Jeambrun PS 6402 Dial Mattte Black Lume X1 Super-Luminova Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Leather or Bracelet Water Resistance 100m Dimensions 38 x 46mm Thickness 14.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-d...

Introducing: The 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Gets An In-House Caliber

Smaller-wristed fans of in-house calibers, rejoice!

Hands-On: The Czapek Time Jumper With A New Caliber To Celebrate A Ten Year Anniversary

The Time Jumper is Czapek's first jump-hour watch and features a half-hunter case, a nod to the brand's pocket-watch legacy, in both gold and steel.

Breitling’s New 40mm Dive Watch With An Updated Caliber - Superocean H

Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...

Trilobe Opens Parisian Manufacture And Debuts In-House Caliber In Trente-Deux Collection

Oris Just Dropped A Brand New Caliber And A Bamford Collab

Richard Mille Introduces New Sapphire Cases Specially Designed For Caliber RM75-01

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century

The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...

Horage Debuts the K3, an All New Antimagnetic Caliber, and the Decaflux, an Affordable Everyday Sports Watch

The independent brand Horage has produced some of the most genuinely interesting watches of the last several years. They’re a bit of a tough brand to pin down. Depending on how you discover them, you could mistake them for a brand obsessed with links between watches and photography, or one of a handful of small indies doing interesting things with tourbillons and other watchmaking tech for quite a bit less money than you’d typically expect. But the thing that links all of their products together is a desire to come up with creative solutions to long standing watchmaking problems and to do so in a way that doesn’t leave anyone out of the experience. Accessibility and approachability are as vital to Horage as their love-it-or-hate-it design language, often embracing an ultra contemporary sensibility.  Two new announcements from Horage over the last week or so perfectly illustrate their commitment to quietly pushing horological boundaries. First came the introduction of their new K3 movement. Over the last several years, most of Horage’s big movement developments have come with some high end features and represent big swings for the brand. The tourbillon, of course, is arguably the centerpiece, but they’ve also introduced a micro-rotor caliber as well as a fascinating tool that allows for the periodic electronic regulating of that very movement. But the K3 is a comparatively simple idea, a high quality movement made from advanced materials at a relatively low cost....

Ming’s Latest Release Presents An Updated Look To The Frederic Piguet Caliber 21

Bring a Loupe: A Philippe Dufour Duality, A Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer, And An Odd 1920s Cartier

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Celebrating 20 years of the iconic Spring Drive Caliber 9R with the SBGA499

Norqain Launches the Independence Skeleton Chrono with the New 8K Flyback Caliber

Norqain has just unveiled what is certainly their biggest release of the year, and quite possibly their most ambitious release since the debut of the Wild One two years ago. The new Independence Skeleton Chronograph expands on the design language we saw take shape with the Wild One, and introduces a new, skeletonized, flyback chronograph mechanism. The new watch is conceived as something of a statement piece, meant to highlight what the brand thinks of as their independent spirit, and launches in two variants that illustrate where a full collection of watches powered by this new caliber could potentially go.  The movement at the center of this release has been dubbed the 8K Manufacture Calibre, and features flyback functionality, a tool that was first developed for chronographs used by pilots to time flight related intervals. Flyback functionality allows a running chronograph to be reset to zero instantaneously without first stopping it, so it’s a useful tool for anyone that needs to time multiple intervals in rapid succession (it has gained wide adoption in sporting contexts through the decades). The execution of this particular movement appears to have all of the hallmarks of a solid, modern chronograph movement, including a power reserve stretching to 62 hours, as well as a column wheel. The 8K caliber is also chronometer certified.  It’s also worth noting that the 8K movement was developed in partnership with Manufacture AMT, a division of Sellita known for creat...

The Grand Seiko 45GS Returns with the New Hand-Wound Hi-Beat Caliber 9SA4

Photo Report: Assembling Caliber 9SA4 at the Grand Seiko Boutique

I’ve always had a fascination for peeking behind the curtain. Whether it was tearing apart broken electronics, rebuilding car engines, or opening the caseback of my first Seiko, I’ve always wanted to see and know how things work. As I’ve gone deeper into the horology rabbit hole, I’ve become more interested in the physical process of assembling a movement. While I can watch any number of YouTube videos, there’s something special about seeing it done in person, especially when you get to watch a Grand Seiko Watchmaker at work. Last week, I was invited to Grand Seiko’s boutique for a live assembly of their new 9SA4 movement, a high-beat, manually wound high frequency movement featuring Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual impulse escapement and 80 hours of power reserve. If you’d like to learn more about the 9SA4 and how it was created from the 9SA5, Zach Kazan covers that in detail here. This event was hosted at Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique (we celebrated the grand opening of this boutique in March, click here for the recap article) which features a gorgeous open concept main level, and an intimate lower level they’ve dubbed “The Cellar”. Unlike any cellar I’ve ever been in, this lower level features multiple lounge spaces, a full bar, a dedicated presentation space and, of course, plenty of watches. You’ll also find various items of cultural significance from the towns surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which inspire the design o...

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

Depancel Introduces their First Série-R Watch with an Automatic Chronograph Caliber

Depancel has carved out a nice little niche for themselves making highly specific automotive and racing inspired watches. These watches are frequently geared directly at watch collectors who are already steeped in car culture, with colorways inspired by classic racing liverys and case designs that emulate specific vehicle designs. Their square shaped watch, the Série-R, might appear somewhat derivative of another famous square watch connected to the racing world, but it has its own thing happening that sets it apart just enough. And this one, surprisingly, is the first chronograph in the Série-R collection.  Previous iterations of the Série-R have primarily been the home of a calendar complication with an execution that is chronograph-like, featuring subdials at 3, 6, and 9 for the calendar indicators. The new Série-R, in a “Tangerine” colorway and limited to 300 pieces, could have been easily predicted by Depancel fans. We get effectively the same layout as the calendar, but we’ve entered race mode with a three register chrono.  The new Tangerine colorway looks great, with a blue base dial with a sunray finish in the interior circular section and vertical ridges outside to fill the square. Orange and white accents figure prominently throughout, with a bold stripe down the dial’s left side, crossing the 9:00 subdial.  The case might appear like a standard square at a glance, but there’s a little more going on. The shape is meant to evoke a radiator grille,...

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex 'Great White' Sea-Dweller, An Omega 'Ed White' Speedmaster 321, And A Black Cartier Tank Must

Plus a Breitling Premier Datora and a limited Panerai Mare Nostrum.

Introducing - The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 'Master Chronometer' With Co-Axial Caliber 3861

With its first new motor in decades, the venerable Moonwatch is ready to rocket.

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 'Master Chronometer' With Co-Axial Caliber 3861

The newest version of the Moonwatch replaces the cal. 1861 Moonwatch, after five decades.

VIDEO: How To Service The 234-Component Caliber 1861 Inside The Omega Speedmaster

In this video, we head up to Manfredi Jewels in Greenwich, CT, to talk about this, and see why now more than ever we need qualified repairmen via a detailed look at servicing one of the most iconic timepieces in history – the Omega Speedmaster.