Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1951 Audemars Piguet, A 1972 Movado El Primero 'Pilot,' And A 1960s Universal Genève Polerouter Date
Led by a stunning time-only Audemars Piguet, this week's drop is our best in December by far.
502 articles · 16 videos found · page 5 of 18
38 mm × 12.6 mm, lug 19 mm, Cal. El Primero 400
The 1969 36,000 vph automatic chronograph saved from the quartz crisis by Charles Vermot.
Zenith's 1969 column-wheel automatic chronograph caliber at 36,000 vph, saved from quartz-era destruction by Charles Vermot in 1975 and supplied to the Rolex Daytona ref. 16520 (1988-2000).
Zenith pulls the stopwatch function from its most recognisable sports case and the result is more interesting than you'd expect
Hodinkee
Led by a stunning time-only Audemars Piguet, this week's drop is our best in December by far.
Hodinkee
It was given to me by one of my mentors, Ludwig Oechslin.
Deployant
Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers around the world, the Chronomaster Open is available in steel with a white or black dial, with either a steel bracelet or cordura-effect rubber strap
Hodinkee
Zenith's mid-2000s flagship chronograph receives new tenth-of-a-second duds.
Hodinkee
Look, Ma, three hands!
Hodinkee
Imagine a brand changing just one color or even tweaking one line of text on the dial of its most popular model – what an idea!
Hodinkee
Kick back, relax, and enjoy a piña colada – it's time to go tropical.
Hodinkee
Happy Wednesday from the HODINKEE Vintage Team.
Hodinkee
Julien Tornare goes deep.
Hodinkee
Fifteen (new) vintage watches to peruse in the HODINKEE Shop.
Hodinkee
And a Swatch phone, because why not?
Revolution
The Bamford Watch Department has collaborated with Zenith to create a retro-futurist Chronomaster inspired by archive pieces and radar.
Worn & Wound
Since its inception in 1969, Zenith’s groundbreaking El Primero movement – the first automatic, integrated, high-frequency chronograph caliber – has been synonymous with the classic complication. Now, Zenith takes the essence of this historically significant movement and highlights the high-frequency component with its first time-only application in the Chronomaster line. With the new Chronomaster Solo Sport, form and function go hand in hand. The three-hand display offers a design that is decidedly less sporty than its chronograph counterparts. However, the new collection continues a throughline we’ve seen within the Chronomaster lineup, making it both fresh and familiar to the model family. The Solo Sport has a 40mm build that fits well within the Chronomaster range of 37mm for the vintage-inspired revival models up to 41mm for the standard chronograph sport models. As we’ve also seen in the typical sport models, the Solo Sport models feature a ceramic, unidirectional rotating bezel. Ceramic extends to the dial, which presents a new “Z” pattern. Depending on the version – white, black, or brown – this pattern is engraved on either a sunray-finished white ceramic dial or a polished black or brown ceramic surface. Additionally, the black version is also offered in a no-date variant for a total of four Solo Sport styles. The “Z” motif is repeated once more on the stylization of the seconds hand. The more geometric elements of this dial design continue ...
SJX Watches
To commemorate Miles Davis’ many decades as a Navitimer man, Breitling has introduced the Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Miles Davis, based on the ref. 806 Mk5 favoured by the pioneering jazz musician. Limited to 500 pieces in steel — plus 50 more that are part of a three-watch set with counterparts in 18k yellow gold and platinum — the watch is available on an optional Air Racer bracelet, which makes a triumphant return. Initial thoughts Breitling has positioned this release as a commemorative watch for a singular musician, but it will likely appeal beyond Miles Davis fans. The design is tasteful without any overt references to Davis, with the only specific reference being the subtle case back engraving. The Miles Davis edition follows a formula established by Breitling’s very popular Navitimer ref. 806 reissue and the subsequent Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute, and should prove tempting to collectors who missed out on those editions or who simply objected to the Cosmonaute’s 24-hour format. The return of the Air Racer bracelet on this edition is a surprise, since Miles Davis usually chose to accessorise his Navitimer with a black leather bund strap. Despite that incongruence, the Air Racer is period-correct and has been very nicely executed and updated. As a design it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but I commend Breitling for experimenting with avant-garde bracelet designs like this, much like Zenith has done with the El Primero’s vintage-inspired ...
Hodinkee
What We Know Now in its sixth decade as one of the most famous movements in the industry, the El Primero remains at the heart of Zenith's offerings. To kick off Geneva Watch Days, Zenith is doing something slightly different, launching a Chronomaster Sport without a chronograph—the Chronomaster Solo Sport. The watch arrives in four variations: three with ceramic dials and bezels in black, white, and brown, plus a no-date option also in black. All four come in a 40mm stainless steel case with a ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel. The dial features hours, minutes, and seconds, with date added on three of the four references. Despite losing the chronograph, there's still a lot going on up top. The words "36,000 VpH" and "high frequency" alone take up two lines of the dial, and the subtle "shark tooth" minute track gives a nod to vintage Zenith references. The dial itself is ceramic, built around a repeated 45° Z motif meant to evoke the rhythm and vibration of the movement underneath—rendered as a sunray finish on the white version and a polished surface on the black and brown versions. That same pattern carries over to the counterweight on the seconds hand. The El Primero 3620 powers the watch, derived from the El Primero 3600 chronograph movement and operating at 5 Hz, or 36,000 VpH, while retaining the star-shaped rotor. It's equipped with a silicon escapement and a stop-second mechanism for precise time-setting, and it offers a 60-hour power reserve. Also featur...
WristBuzz
From a chronograph-free Zenith El Primero to a €390,000 Gerald Genta minute repeater, ten of the watches that actually landed at Geneva Watch Days 2026.
Teddy Baldassarre
While the Chronomaster collection is typically associated with El Primero chronographs, the new Zenith Chronomaster Solo Sport flips that notion on its head.
WatchAdvice
I take the new TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs in blue and green for a hands-on review to see how this watchmaking icon has evolved for a new generation! What We Love: Improved ergonomics for slimmer wrists Distinctive dial colours with different personalities Substantially upgraded TH20-11 movement What We Don’t: Limited strap options Square case still wears large 13.9mm thickness remains noticeable Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for Money: 8.8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.7/10 Few watches in the world of horology are as instantly recognisable as the TAG Heuer Monaco. Even more than five decades after its introduction, the iconic timepiece’s square silhouette remains one of its most distinctive features. If you aren’t familiar with the story of the Monaco, it was first introduced in 1969—and it has quite the story behind it. The Monaco arrived during one of watchmaking’s most defining technical contests: the development of the first automatic chronograph. The birth of the Monaco was closely linked to the Calibre 11 movement, which was developed through a collaborative effort between Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton-Büren and chronograph specialist Dubois-Dépraz. The Calibre 11 was essentially part of a movement “race” against Zenith’s El Primero Calibre 3019 PHC and Seiko’s Calibre 6139. The new generation of TAG Heuer Monaco Chronographs presented in blue and green dials. Jack Heuer, who was one of the driving forces behind the Cal...
Monochrome
Paris is the inspiration behind this latest special edition again, but Zenith has done it differently this time. In 2024, the brand took cues from the city’s modern architecture and combined it with the sharp lines of the Defy Skyline Paris Edition. This time, however, Zenith has chosen its vintage-inspired El Primero watch, resulting in […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Zenith Chronomaster A384 Revival is a faithful, 1:1 resurrection of the very first steel watch to house the legendary El Primero movement back in 1969.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for another showdown! This week’s battle pits two modern versions of classic chronographs against each other. Mike picked the recently revamped Breitling Chronomat, while Jorg picked the Zenith Chronomaster Original, the modern version of the Zenith El Primero A386. The roots of the Zenith date back to 1969, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 Chronograph 42 Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Original to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2019, Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Zenith’s high-frequency, integrated automatic chronograph movement was fitted inside three inaugural watches, including the A384, a bold tonneau-shaped case with a two-tone dial that reflected the design language of the period. As the United States gets ready to celebrate […]
SJX Watches
For much of the past quarter-century, Zenith has built its brand on the back of the El Primero — a fast-beating chronograph calibre that debuted in 1969. But last year — for its 160th anniversary — the brand revived the time-only calibre 135 – a legendary competition calibre originally developed in the late 1940s. The reborn movement debuted within a new collection — the GFJ — named after founder Georges Favre-Jacot. To better understand what lies behind the relaunch of the cal. 135, we talked to Romain Marietta, Chief Product Officer at Zenith. David Serra, Technical Director of Movement Development, provided additional production insights. As Mr Marietta explains, the relaunch of the cal. 135 opens a new chapter for Zenith — more exclusive and more artisanal, featuring precious materials, elevated finishing and a classical aesthetic inspired by the designs of the 1950s. In short, closer to the independent watchmakers’ approach and to their audience. And this is only the beginning — the Le Locle-based brand has plans to further develop both the calibre and the collection. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): Let’s start at the beginning: what makes cal. 135 so special? Romain Marietta (RM): For context, it was produced from 1949 until 1962. At the time, the pursuit of precision had a real genuine meaning. Watchmakers measured their strength, stature and reputation through the prizes they won. This movement was created f...
Worn & Wound
Zenith has launched the latest version of their popular Chronomaster Revival A384, a line that takes the iconic case of the A384 and often plays with color and materials as a platform for a modern El Primero movement. The A384, for me, has always been the most interesting of the Zenith heritage releases. It feels truly transported from another time, fully intact, largely thanks to the iconic ladder bracelet that we often see included with these references (more on that in a minute). This particular release really leans into a very specific vintage look, and I imagine will be warmly welcomed by modern Zenith enthusiasts who appreciate and collect vintage Zenith as well. The story here, clearly, is the brown used as an accent color to evoke natural patina that vintage watch collectors often prize over perfectly preserved watches. A so-called “tropical” dial occurs over a long stretch of time when a watch is exposed to the outside world, the sun’s rays slowly fading the color present in the original dial. This will often result in a brown or tan color to emerge from black paint, which is particularly noticeable on chronographs with black subdials, which is what Zenith is going for here. But the “tropical” effect can, in theory, be applied to any color, and change blues, greens, and reds in unexpected ways. Here we have a white dial with a very subtle grain and brown subdials at 3, 6, and 9, for the chronograph minutes, chronograph hours, and running seconds, res...
Monochrome
For many people, 1969 is the year of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, Woodstock and the final live performance of The Beatles on a London rooftop. However, for watch enthusiasts, 1969 is the year Zenith unveiled the El Primero, the world’s first automatic, integrated chronograph calibre – and a high-frequency one to boot. Among the […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, Zenith adds another variation of its modern revival of the unique A384 chronograph to its catalog, with the Chronomaster Revival A384 Tropical. This is, at a high level, just a new dial that's been added to the collection, and one that's done in a familiar Zenith way at that. Here, the inspiration is very much around tropical dials, with a base dial in a softly grained white, contrasted by brown accents in the subdials and tachymeter scale. Zenith calls it a "chocolate panda" configuration, and I think that's a pretty apt name. Text on the white portion of the dial is printed in black, including the "El Primero" script under the Zenith logo, while printing on the brown portions of the dial, such as the tachymeter and sundial markings, is all done in white. The aged, tropical theme continues with lume on the applied markers and handset executed in Old Radium Super-LumiNova, which certainly complements the warmth of the overall look. A bright red chronograph seconds hand sits front and center, and a date window sits between the four and five o'clock hour markers. The dial sits in that distinctive A384 case, with a compact, angular tonneau silhouette measuring 37mm. Pump pushers and a Zenith star-signed crown sit on the right flank of the case. Finishing is interesting throughout the watch, with radial brushing on the front slab of the case, polished facets, and horizontal brushing on the sides. It's complemented by Zenith's revival of the Gay Frères ladd...
Monochrome
The Chronomaster Sport already has most of what you expect from a robust, modern sports chronograph, most often seen in stainless steel with a ceramic bezel. Beating inside is Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero movement, one of the best-known high-beat chronograph calibres out there. Alongside the full steel versions, Zenith has also pushed this design a […]
Monochrome
When Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, the message was clear: the El Primero was entering a new, sportier chapter rather than living off 1969 nostalgia. Exploiting the full potential of the calibre 3600’s 5Hz frequency, the 1/10th-of-a-second readings put the Chronomaster Sport luxury sports watch in a class of its own. The latest […]
Fratello
For 2026, Zenith celebrates five years of one of its defining modern watches. Since its 2021 debut, the Chronomaster Sport has pushed the El Primero automatic chronograph into a new era. Its contemporary, sporty design has also made it a perfect platform for experimentation. This year, Zenith leans into that potential with its most avant-garde […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two-Tone And A New Skeleton Collection With An Updated Clasp to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Zenith has released five new references under the Chronomaster Sport umbrella, most notably with four skeletonized versions of the design, as well as a dressier two-tone option. To understand the new skeletonized editions, it’s probably best to start at the beginning. When Zenith introduced the El Primero in 1969, it launched what is widely regarded as the world’s first automatic, integrated high-frequency chronograph caliber, a movement that has remained central to the brand’s identity ever since. The Chronomaster collection has long carried that legacy forward, and with this new series of skeletonized watches, Zenith brings that movement further to the forefront. All of the skeleton models run on the El Primero 3600SK, the openworked version of Zenith’s high-frequency automatic chronograph. Like the standard El Primero 3600, it beats at 5 Hz, which allows the central chronograph hand to complete one full rotation every 10 seconds and display 1/10th of a second directly off the bezel. The movement also offers a 60-hour power reserve, while the open dial and caseback give a clear view of the column wheel, horizontal clutch, and star-shaped rotor. All come in the now familiar 41mm Chronomaster Sport case. In regards to the design of the Chronomaster Sport Skeleton models, the biggest visual shift comes from the opened-up dial. The collection includes two stainless steel versions: one with a black ceramic bezel and the signature grey, anthracite, and blue tri-color c...
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