Hodinkee
Introducing: Bulgari Channels Old Hollywood Glamor With Its New High Jewelry Serpentis
The Roman jeweler proves just why the Serpenti will always be the perfect "Women's" watch.
Results for Tool Watch vs Dress Watch
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Time Through the Ages, Part 2: Abraham-Louis Breguet’s Genius of Invention
Editor’s Note: Time Through the Ages is a four part series written by Andrew Canter, member of the British Horological Institute, Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, and the British Watch & Clock Makers Guild. In this second installment, Andrew examines the life and career of Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon and many other important watchmaking advancements. For more from Andrew, check out his work at Mr. WatchMaster. Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823) was a designer, inventor, and watchmaker. Being a master craftsman in the field of watchmaking earned him a prestigious clientele that included Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, alongside other international nobility, and the elegance and technical innovations of his designs were considered the height of style and fashion. Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image courtesy of Manufacture Breguet Breguet was born in Neuchâtel on the 10th January 1747, but it was in Paris that he spent most of his productive life. He is credited with the development of the successful self-winding perpétuelle watches, the introduction of the gongs for repeating watches, the first shock-protection for balance pivots and of course the tourbillon. Every watch that left his workshops demonstrated the latest horological improvements in an original movement, mostly fitted with lever or ruby-cylinder escapements that he perfected. He was a great entrepreneur and marketed his magnificent watches brilliantly. Perhaps his most ...
SJX Watches
IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case
IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Adds a Two-Tone Option to their Popular BR 03 Range
Bell & Ross is continuing to fill out their updated BR 03 collection with new references to accommodate the subtly smaller case they introduced last year. Brad Homes went hands-on with the new, more refined case right here, and found the differences to be small, but an overall improvement. It’s important not to underestimate either the scope of the change for Bell & Ross or the potential impact small adjustments can have on a watch case, particularly when you’re dealing with a square design like the BR 03. Bell & Ross fans (I’m raising my hand here) have strong feelings about their iconic square case designs, so any small adjustment is going to be met with the kind of intense critique that can only come from an enthusiast community. It seems, though, that the updates have been well received, and the latest addition, the BR 03 White Steel & Gold, brings a very different flavor to traditional tool watch design. The stated goal of the White Steel & Gold reference is to bring a more sophisticated look to the BR 03 line, one that is, in Bell & Ross terms, “both urban and elegant.” While we still have the vague outline of an aviation inspired tool watch, the details come from an entirely different place. The bezel is rendered in rose gold, and the crisp opaline dial has matching gold tone accents. While the gold is likely the design characteristic that will draw most to the watch initially, the dial appears to have a very fine texture and character to it that could w...
Fratello
Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns
At the end of last year, Breitling announced that it had acquired Universal Genève. That move caused excitement within the watch community, mainly because UG’s vintage watches are highly esteemed. The fact that a respected brand like Breitling is now involved in resurrecting UG seems promising. But we’ll probably have to wait a few more […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Universal Genève Classics To Buy Before The Brand Returns to read the full article.
Fratello
Vintage Watches: The Movado Disco Volante
Today, we’ll take a look at a vintage Movado Disco Volante. This is a lovely watch with an incredible case. It also marks the first article I’ve written about Movado. Hopefully, that’s a good thing because there are more on the way about this oft-forgotten brand. Since moving to London, my interest in watches from […] Visit Vintage Watches: The Movado Disco Volante to read the full article.
Time+Tide
In the Metal: Marcus explains how to recover from a f*ck up
Want to know how to perfectly photograph a watch? Marcus has the answers: composition, lighting tips, and more.The post In the Metal: Marcus explains how to recover from a f*ck up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: the Rise of “Bromakase,” a Very Rare Leica Collectible, and a New Everest Film in the Works
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Rise of “Bromakase” An interesting article in the New York Times this week for anyone with a passing intereste in sushi or the restaurant world in general: writer Brett Anderson dives deep into the phenomenon some have termed “Bromakase,” a strange combination of the traditional omakase experience you’d have in a great sushi restaurant with the flash and glitz of a modern, big city steakhouse. These two ideas are really on polar opposite ends of the dining spectrum. Omakase at its best is a tranquil experience with great food prepared expertly but simply. But that concept has been tweaked in recent years by upstart chefs all over the United States, adding theater and conspicuous consumption (think blowtorching marrow and Wagyu beef topped with caviar for no reason in particular) to the menu. A possible inflection point was the rise of Sushi Nakazawa, the famed NYC omakase spot, which brought a new type of diner into the premium sushi world once it became one of the trendiest restaurants in the world. How to Steal a Tesla The “relay attack” has been called the mod...
Worn & Wound
Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100
EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! EDC continues to grow as part of what we enjoy and feature here in the Windup Watch Shop for many of the same exact reasons we love watches. We appreciate usable, practical tools that can evoke feelings of both romance and adventure. What’s more, EDC is often even more varied and affordable than the average timepiece, making everyday carry gear an exciting complement to our watches. Today we look at five EDC picks that are not only must-haves; they are all under $100. And now they are all eligible for free domestic shipping in the US. Take a look and happy trails! The post Five Must-Have EDC Picks Under $100 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions?
Last week, Tudor released a 1,908-piece limited run of Black Bay 58 watches with a special dial to celebrate Inter Milan winning the Italian Serie A football league. Other recent Tudor specials were two Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” timepieces. And there’s also the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” made for the Tudor […] Visit A Flurry Of Faces: Is Tudor Forcing Its Hand With Too Many Limited And Special Editions? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Ming Gets Back in the Water with the 37.09 Bluefin
It’s been a few years since Ming released the massively popular 18.01 H41 dive watch, and fans of the brand have been clamoring for more ever since. It would have been easy enough for Ming to re-release the 18.01, maybe with a new colorway, but the brand is not one to rest on their past successes and the Ming 37.09 Bluefin is far more than a slight update to a familiar model. Instead, Ming has completely re-thought what a dive watch from Ming can be, and the results are absolutely stunning - and quintessentially Ming. If you follow Ming on social media, the release of the 37.09 Bluefin today shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. After all, the brand has been posting throwbacks and teasers left and right to get us all excited about this release. Today, we get to see the new watch: A 600 meter water-resistant, dual crown diver inspired by the architecture of Ming’s recent 37-series watches, complete with Ming’s signature flared lugs and a preposterous preponderance of lume. Whether putting out affordable time-only watches or ultra-light record-setters and wild tourbillons, Ming has been unafraid and uncompromising. This details-first approach might help to explain why it took so long for Ming to follow up on the 18.01. Apparently, Ming experimented with several successors to their first dive watch, focusing on outperforming the 1000 meter water-resistant dive watch on a technical level. Eventually, after producing several prototypes at thicknesses creeping up to ...
Monochrome
Introducing – The F.P. Journe Chronograph FB, a Classic(ish) Hand-Wound Chrono and the Last of the Limited Editions
Let’s get straight to the point, as there are a few important things to know about this watch. This is a new, unprecedented watch, despite being a commemorative and limited piece. It is also the first hand-wound chronograph (no split-seconds) of F.P. Journe. It is released in the frame of the 20th anniversary of the […]
Time+Tide
What is Gibeon meteorite?
Buffy explores the out-of-this-world origins of the Gibeon meteorite, and how watch manufacturers made the most of it.The post What is Gibeon meteorite? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Serica 6190 M.S.L. Chronometer In Black, White, And Gray
Designing and producing robust and elegant wristwatches is what it’s all about for Serica. Today, the brand’s founders Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette launch a new iteration of their 6190 field watch. Although under a different name (or reference, for that matter), this is where it all started for the young Parisian brand. You’ll see, […] Visit Introducing: The Serica 6190 M.S.L. Chronometer In Black, White, And Gray to read the full article.
Time+Tide
How much does a lifetime of servicing actually cost?
A mechanical watch may be the sustainable option for the environment, but does the same apply when it comes to your wallet?The post How much does a lifetime of servicing actually cost? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime
The Millesime collection by Raymond Weil took us by surprise when it launched last year. Once in a while, a watch comes along that just seems to work. The design and the execution just click. The Millesime is such a watch. So when Raymond Weil announced new models, I was keen to give them a […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime to read the full article.
Fratello
Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu
It’s funny; I was in this same position last year. Having recently attended Watches and Wonders, one of the watches that most caught my eye during the week of releases was not actually at the show. Instead, it was over at Time To Watches. Behrens, one of my favorite brands, released a new watch in […] Visit Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer is a Classic Monochrome Diver
A classic that has been in the collection for over 12 years and, without a doubt, the brand’s cornerstone model, the classic 41mm Tudor Black Bay is now in its third generation. If design-wise not much has changed at first sight, the watch you see today is, in many ways, a much more advanced instrument […]
Worn & Wound
Just In Time For Summer: Five Divers Under $1,000
Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or sports cars, there’s a sense of enjoyment of knowing that our tools are more than up to the task. Thankfully, an entry into the dive watch game doesn’t cost an arm and a leg; in fact, here are five dive watches under $1,000 that we would strap on any day for life’s adventures. Without further ado, let’s, um, dive in. Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or spor...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Vertex M36: Paying Tribute To British Forces In The 1940s
Vertex is marking the 80th anniversary of D-Day with a new watch that pays tribute to watches issued to British forces during the 1940s. Under the leadership of Don Cochrane, Vertex has launched this new model to honor the 1,776 watches they supplied to British troops on that historic day.
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Finally Adds their Geographic Complication to the Polaris Collection
There are few brands that the watch community collectively holds in higher esteem than Jaeger-LeCoultre. Think about the truly historic names in watchmaking and you’ll find vocal groups of detractors for just about every single one. But JLC is different, and always seems to be above the fray. The “watchmaker’s watchmaker” stuff is a clever bit of marketing, but it’s actually true, and keeps the brand both insulated from the watch world’s hot-take culture protected by legitimate ties to some of the most important watches ever made. But if there’s one thing, one very small thing that enthusiasts and collectors can poke at with Jaeger-LeCoultre, it’s their recent fumbling in the area of sports oriented watches. Now, you might be saying to yourself that JLC just isn’t a “sports watch” brand, and that refined dress watches and expert technical watchmaking is their brand and butter. Of course that’s true, but JLC has made great sports watches in the past with innovative cases and movements by their own design made to be robust enough for nearly any activity. It’s a genre they’ve played in for decades. The Reverso, of course, now thought of as a dress piece, was originally conceived for polo players. If you do a Chrono24 search for Memovox references from the 1970s you’ll find no shortage of oversized, funky, cases. And of course we can’t forget the last great sports watch line Jaeger-LeCoultre had, the impressively overbuilt Master Compressor co...
Fratello
From The Archives: The Omega Speedmaster Holy Grail
Sixteen years ago this month, my friend and legendary chronograph collector Chuck Maddox passed away. The Speedmaster Mark II was the watch that got him into watches and Speedmasters specifically. However, his quest for the Speedmaster ST 376.0822 became incredibly famous. He searched for this watch with the intensity that King Arthur searched for the […] Visit From The Archives: The Omega Speedmaster Holy Grail to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces
The contemporary Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris debuted six years ago. Since then, new variations have emerged, including a chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and the Mariner Memovox alarm model. But a multi-time-zone version was missing from the revived lineup - until today. The Polaris Geographic is a travel watch with one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature complications. One glance at […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic - A Characteristic Complication Surfaces to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong
Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle Reviewed by Tim Mosso
The F.P. Journe Octa Perpétuelle was Journe’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch. “First” is a flag that flies forever, and this watch is a potential collection cornerstone on that basis alone.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin's Freak S Nomad Blends Old Techniques With Iconic Design
A complex watch turns 23 years old, but it doesn't mean Ulysse Nardin doesn't have some new tricks.
Worn & Wound
Kollokium Returns with their First Official Release
Back in December, we told you about one of the most curious projects to come across our desks in a long time. A new watch from a new brand, Kollokium, began making the rounds on social media and the watch-internet in the days and weeks following Dubai Watch Week. Everything about it seemed almost intentionally mysterious and vague, and their marketing materials, if you could even call them that, pointed to the watch’s so limited it’s impossible to buy friends and family run, and didn’t even guarantee a second installment. Obviously, this worked hugely in Kollokium’s favor, and watch enthusiasts with adventurous taste have been anxiously anticipating a follow up. Now it’s here, the aptly titled Variant “B”. A brief refresher on Kollokium for those who need it: it’s the brainchild of Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, three watch industry veterans who each come from a different side of the larger watch world. Emch will be familiar to many as the CEO of Louis Erard, and has guided that brand to new heights in the last several years with a string of popular limited editions and smart collaborations. Nussbaumer might be less well known by name, but is someone you’ve almost certainly encountered through his watch designs – he’s worked for many brands over the years, including TAG Heuer, Hautlence, Peterman Bedat, Jaquet Droz, and many others. And Sindi is better known by his Instagram alias @thehorophile, one of our favorite spots to look at gr...
Monochrome
Introducing – Chronoswiss Unveils Three Spectacular ReSec Manufacture Models
Founded in 1983 by Gerd R. Lang in Munich, Chronoswiss has quickly become one of the leading representatives of a classic complication, the Regulator – a type of display that splits the three main indications of time and pays tribute to master clocks of the old days of watch regulation. As you can imagine, the […]
Worn & Wound
Vertex Commemorates D-Day with the M36
This coming June 6 marks the 80th anniversary of D-Day. Vertex, the UK based watch brand headed by Don Cochrane, supplied 1,776 watches to British forces on D-Day, and to commemorate the occasion the brand has released a new reference. The M36 feels very much like a watch that Vertex could have produced at any time, but it makes particular sense in the context of the D-Day anniversary. It’s impossible to look at a watch in this style (and these proportions) from a brand with the history of Vertex and not think about the past. The M36 was conceived as a watch that would borrow significantly from vintage military issued timepieces. To a certain extent, all Vertex watches do this. It’s in the brand’s DNA and is inescapable in the watches they make. But the M36 goes a few steps further. The case, for one, is a compact 36mm in size, which is true to the vintage watches that Vertex would have supplied, and makes the new watch a solid option for virtually anyone today. The sapphire crystal is box shaped as opposed to domed, which gives it an additional layer of vintage charm, and the straightforward dial layout with large Arabic numerals and a railroad minutes track are right in line with WWII era watches. The watch runs on a workhorse automatic Sellita caliber and is equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivarox hairspring. The crown screws down, and provides 100 meters of water resistance. There’s also plenty of molded X1 Super-LumiNova on the dial, which if it glows anyth...
Monochrome
Introducing – Tudor Launches a Limited Black Bay 58 with Inter Milan, Available Exclusively in Italy
There was a time when Tudor, just like mother brand Rolex, only released new models during watch fairs and only watches available in the permanent collection. These days are long gone, and Tudor has decided to fly solo, changing from the usual yearly releases to a more constant flow of novelties, now including special or […]