Hodinkee
Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
The second watch from the relaunched brand shows that there was no way that the new Daniel Roth was going to be a one-hit-wonder.
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Hodinkee
The second watch from the relaunched brand shows that there was no way that the new Daniel Roth was going to be a one-hit-wonder.
Monochrome
Launched in 2016, the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 combines the best of Hublot: modern materials, an edgy skeleton movement with a 10-day power reserve – one of the most important calibres from the brand with the Unico Chronograph – and versatility with the practical one-click interchangeable strap system. With the current trend for smaller watches, […]
Worn & Wound
I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...
Watch season officially opens with the LVMH Watch Week 2025. Originally scheduled to take place in Los Angeles from January 21 to 24, the devastating wildfires have led to the cancellation of the physical event. However, the launches are underway from LVMH’s stable of brands, including Bulgari, which comes with exciting news about its new, […]
Hodinkee
A new design to mark the new era of TAG and Formula 1.
Monochrome
The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s answer to the trend of elegant sports watches with integrated bracelets. Introduced in 2022, it has become one of the pillars of the brand’s collections. With its octagonal case and dodecagonal bezel, its design is a modern nod to the 1969 Defy. The Defy Skyline chronograph joined the lineup in […]
Monochrome
Since the arrival of Jean Arnault as the head of the watchmaking division of Louis Vuitton, things have changed quickly, with the launch of the new Tambour in 2023, the Escale dress watch in 2024, and multiple automata and métiers d’art watches too. Today, we’ll be talking about what’s possibly the most recognisable high-end watch […]
Time+Tide
For LVMH Watch Week 2025, Hublot has reimagined the Big Bang Meca-10 in a more accessible 42mm diameter with a more refined 10-day power reserve calibre.The post Smaller, prettier and just as enduring: the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A refined new take on LV's signature case design, this dragging hours and minutes piece pays homage to traditional montres à guichet.The post Louis Vuitton makes a major leap as a watchmaker with the Tambour Convergence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Integrated bracelets and steel? There's more to Genta than just that.The post Gérald Genta perfects colour play with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
If your mind has been swirling with confusion over "glassbox" options, I think you better close it and let me guide you to the purple rain.
Time+Tide
This quirky chronograph pays homage to the success of Porsche and TAG Heuer's predecessor, Heuer, at the 1965 Monte Carlo Rally.The post TAG Heuer & Porsche race back onto the scene with the Carrera Chronograph x Chronosprint Rallye appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
LVMH Watch Week has quickly become a yearly staple on the release calendar for watch enthusiasts since its inaugural year in 2020. A mix of novelties and staple collections have graced the headlines acting as a special kickoff to the new year and this year is no different. What immediately caught my eye though was a pair of Carrera Chronographs sporting a new-to-the-model dial color. Enter the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Tourbillon in purple. Equipped with a smoky black-to-purple gradient backdrop, the Glassbox design family continues to grow. Following the release of the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial in 2022, I had assumed that we would see this color trend carried throughout the rest of the catalog. With that model being discontinued and somewhat hard to come by, it is not surprising that the tourbillon model was also slapped with the LE designation. What is a surprise though is that the standard Carrera Chronograph is not limited and is entering standard production. This will hopefully give those lusting to add an excellent pop of purple into their collection the opportunity as these begin to trickle out to authorized retailers, though I do suspect that they will still be a bit hard to come by immediately. By far the standout feature of the watch is its appearance. Appearing almost black in medium to low light conditions, the purple breaks through in direct light playing with its sunray-brushed surface. The effect lends dimensionality and versatility to the design ...
SJX Watches
Arguably TAG Heuer’s most interesting affordable chronograph, the Carrera Chronosprint features a unique variable-speed chronograph seconds that accelerates for the first 15 seconds of every elapsed minute, before slowing to complete the remainder of the 60 seconds. Now TAG Heuer has introduced a new pair of variants in partnership with Porsche: the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye that’s available in either steel or yellow gold. The new model sports a black dial modelled on the dash of the 1965 Porsche 911 that bears the traditional “Carrera” emblem at 12 o’clock. Initial thoughts The Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye demonstrates TAG Heuer’s strength in affordable chronographs. In technical terms, it’s the brand’s best chronograph in this price segment. The case is little large for my preference, but that’s typical of the current Carrera due to the thickness of the TH20 in-house movement. Although I am typically indifferent to brand partnerships - they are more often than not simply for marketing buzz - this particular collaboration makes sense given TAG Heuer’s historical presence in motorsports, which it has just returned to starting with the 2025 Formula 1 season. Retailing at US$10,250 in steel and US$24,600 in yellow gold, the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye is pricier than the base-model Carrera “Glassbox” by a margin of about 50%. While that might seem a lot, the uncharge US$3,000 or so is worth it given the TH20-08 “...
SJX Watches
Zenith’s latest release is an evolutionary take on its popular sports chronograph with an integrated bracelet: the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton builds upon the original version by open working the dial and main plate of the El Primero calibre. The dial is skeletonised to form a star, Zenith’s longtime emblem and a recurring theme of its skeleton watches. Apart from the open-worked dial, the new Defy remains essentially unchanged from the standard model, keeping the same 42 mm octagonal case topped by a 12-sided bezel. Initial thoughts Zenith’s El Primero was a milestone as one of the first automatic chronograph calibres. The new Defy is equipped with the second-generation El Primero, the cal. 3600, which is one of the biggest strengths of the watch. Notably, the movement has a lightning chronograph seconds completing a full revolution every 10 seconds, allowing the chronograph to measure up to 1/10th of a second (if your fingers work the pushers fast enough). That said, the watch does feel a little derivative in terms of design. While the look is not particularly creative or original, it nonetheless presents a visually striking aesthetic. The combination of satin-brushed and polished surfaces on the case and bracelet are done well. Compared to other watches it resembles (from the likes of Audemars Piguet and Hublot), the Defy is arguably better value. Priced at US$15,500, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton is one of Zenith’s pricier offerings, but arguably...
SJX Watches
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
Monochrome
While most watches made by Greubel Forsey are known to be some of the most impressive on the market regarding execution and finishing, today we’re looking at something even more special. Back in 2019, the independent watchmaker released Hand Made 1, a highly classical watch (at least compared to other, bolder creations) with a focus […]
Monochrome
A brand with a rich legacy and a strong focus on solid quality for accessible prices, Delma is renowned for its super-powerful dive watches, such as the 5,000m-rated Blue Shark IV. But, of course, there’s more to the brand than its diving instruments. We can list chronographs, field watches or even a reasonably accessible tourbillon […]
SJX Watches
Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...
Fratello
Thirteen years after the introduction of the 43mm L.U.C Lunar One, a smaller, more refined update debuts this year in two variations. The rose or white gold case now measures 40.5mm across, and the redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One comes with a blue or salmon dial. The name of the watch doesn’t quite cover the […] Visit Introducing: The Redesigned Chopard L.U.C Lunar One With A Blue Or Salmon Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
It’s often said the watchmaking industry is a conservative business, and for the most part that’s quite true. Traditional techniques are still at the heart of the vast majority of mechanical watches, but there are those who dare to push back boundaries and venture into the unknown. This can result in innovative materials, new designs […]
Time+Tide
Vibey pastel colours, a sporty vintage aesthetic and daily wearer specs make this ceramic Zodiac as sweet as ice cream on a hot summer's day.The post This gelato-tone Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ceramic is the ideal summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Air-King is an interesting model within Rolex’s historic portfolio (known as an evergreen if it’s still in production), sometimes dismissed as too entry-level (well, back in the day). The sentiment is somewhat understandable but also misplaced, even if the Air-King sits among the most affordable models on the preowned market today. The watch goes […]
Worn & Wound
Like many of you, I assume, my passion for watches stems from an interest and nerdery for gear. Finding the perfect piece of kit, playing with new options, and spending hours online researching things that will never end up being purchased all entertain me to no end. Easily the hardest thing to get a digital grasp on though is quality as the excitement of opening a new package melts away with disappointment in the end product. So, when you find a brand that consistently offers quality, product after product, you should probably sign up for their notifications. While I will admit I was not an early follower of Watches Of Espionage, I properly course-corrected, jumping on the bandwagon once I took a closer look at the content and eventually the products. For those that don’t know, Watches Of Espionage was started by a former Case Officer within the CIA focusing on horological content specifically related to espionage. Officially established in 2021, W.O.E. has quickly expanded into a full-fledged online publication, online store, high-level YouTube channel, and engaged community further bolstered by the addition of watch industry veteran and former commercial diver Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist on Instagram) to the W.O.E team. As more and more limited runs of pouches, straps, and knives amongst other things began to show up in my feed, the W.O.E. branding made way to staple collections and consistent products, and the W.O.E. name became increasingly cemented in t...
Deployant
Tudor decided to drop the suspense & released the highly anticipated Tudor Black Bay Chrono "Flamingo Blue" after spotting it on David Beckham and Jay Chou.
Time+Tide
Following on from the hard-to-get pink of last year, this new Tiffany-coloured dial promises to be hot property. The post Tudor does it again with a bright blue Black Bay Chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Well, as far as we know Flamingos aren’t blue. As far as we know, the previous hit of Tudor was pink, and yet it wasn’t named Flamingo… Try to understand. Or simply just enjoy yet another unconventional and fun watch by Tudor. Following the highly-discussed and sought-after Black Bay Chrono Pink last year, which somehow […]
Time+Tide
We asked our audience which 222 they'd prefer to have - and the results were quite surprising.The post Steel or gold? The Time+Tide community has a clear favourite Vacheron Constantin 222 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Oregon High Desert might seem like a strange place to find a watchmaker, but if you happen to stop in Bend, the region’s largest city with about 100,000 residents, you’ll have a chance of running into Keaton Myrick. Inspired by the likes of George Daniels and Philippe Dufour, Mr Myrick produces largely handmade watches in small numbers for connoisseurs of independent watchmaking. Setting up shop this far from the robust supplier networks of Switzerland has proven challenging, but Mr Myrick’s story of overcoming these headwinds reveals a degree of resilience and independence that embodies the spirit of the American West. We’ve been following Mr Myrick’s career for more than a decade, profiling him in 2013 after he debuted his first watch at Baselworld 2012. Now delivering the final pieces of his 1 of 30 series, Mr Myrick has moved into a new, larger workshop and evolved many of his manufacturing processes, so we thought it was worth a visit to see what’s in store for the future of watchmaking in the Pacific Northwest. A later example from the ‘1 in 30’ series. Origins As you might have guessed, Bend, Oregon is not a hotbed for watchmaking. In Mr Myrick’s case, pursuing a career in watchmaking meant relocating across the country to study at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT) in Pennsylvania, where he became WOSTEP-certified and began his stint at Rolex, working in after-sales service and restoration. The founder at his bench. But it was not long before ...
Worn & Wound
I’m not a big fan of New Year’s Resolutions. Despite my own participation in the tradition, the idea of trying to tie major life changes or new habits to something as both arbitrary and specific as the New Year has always been somewhat anathema to me. Still, despite my resistance to making specific commitments at the start of a fresh calendar year, I don’t think there’s any doubt that the arrival of January can set the stage for a refresh. It’s in that mindset that I found myself spending much of the last week reorganizing basically my whole life. And by my whole life, I mean my desk (and the various drawers and organizers that surround it). A primary focus of this odyssey has been a set of metal Ikea drawers that operate as the functional center of my watch habit. One area in need of particular attention here was my strap drawer, in no small part because of its increasing annexation of other parts of my organizational ecosystem - a problem exacerbated by a shift in approach that existed in direct conflict with my existing storage logic. I don’t remember who first introduced them to me, but for the last few years, I’ve been storing my straps in a slowly increasing count of Muji Polypropylene Pen Cases (I think I first saw them on another collector’s Instagram, but for the life of me I can’t remember whose). With two compartments, one large enough for straps, the other perfectly sized for spring bars or loose links, these cheap plastic pencil cases make ...
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