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Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! Fratello
Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Oct 15, 2025

Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same!

A retro watch is a modern watch evoking a style from a bygone era - usually, in the case of dive watches, the 1950s and ’60s. It’s hard to pinpoint exactly when the “Retro Age” began in the watch world, but I don’t think we’re far off by considering the introduction of the Tudor Black […] Visit Retro Dive Watches Are Suffering From An Identity Crisis: They All Look The Same! to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Primetime for Fashion Brands? SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Oct 15, 2025

SJX Podcast: Primetime for Fashion Brands?

On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack the new Louis Vuitton Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. Are collectors who ignore these kinds of products intellectually lazy? We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin – is it the perfect watch for your next soiree? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Islander Watches Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 14, 2025

Islander Watches Review

The independent and microbrands of the watch world are often where the most interesting things are happening, but the landscape is only getting wider and the competition stronger – which is ultimately a good thing. But, with competition only growing fiercer, there are other brands that get knocked out of the spotlight, overshadowed by the current hyped brand/watch/designs of the time. Such is the case with Islander watches. But today, we’re going to help fix that and give a little extra consideration and attention to what I would call an underdog of the independent world. Down below, I’ll be walking you through what Islander Watches are all about, focusing on a case study of a couple of models, and sharing my final conclusions about how this brand fits into the wild world of watches.  Some Context Islander Watches hold an interesting position within the industry, as they are actually the house brand of Long Island Watch, and, at its core, Islander is an entirely enthusiast-driven brand. I’m sure there are plenty of those already familiar with Long Island Watch from YouTube or the digital sphere, but for those uninitiated, Long Island Watch is a New York-based watch brand founded in 2003 by Marc Frankel, a mechanical engineer who turned his passion for collecting watches into an online retailer back in 2003. Focussing on offering a really dynamic curation of affordable, hardworking, and interesting watches from nearly all genres (and often from obscure brands), Mar...

The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In Worn & Wound
Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon” I have Oct 14, 2025

The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In

The “One Watch Collection” is one of our favorite thought experiments. Thinking through whether we could scale back, or if we started over, if we’d do things differently, helps many of us hone in on what makes the watches we love special in the first place. Today, our contributors wrestle with the idea of a one watch collection, making their choices for the watch they’d wear forever, and explaining their thought process.  As always, we want to hear from you. Let us know in the comments if a one watch collection is even feasible, and what your one watch choice would be. Alec Dent – Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon” I have what you might call a theoretical fondness for the one-watch collection. I love the idea, but I also have more than one watch and can’t imagine selling most of the watches in my collection. If I could go back to the beginning of my watch collecting journey, though, there’s no doubt in my mind that I’d be a one-watch guy and that that watch would be a Rolex Datejust. It’s water resistant to 100m, it’s durable, it can be dressed up or dressed down, and it epitomizes classic design. What more could you need from a watch? I’m particularly partial to the 36mm two-tone “Wimbledon” dial with a fluted bezel and a jubilee bracelet, but the Datejust has been around for so long - 80 years this year! - there are countless variations from which to choose. (If I wasn’t here advocating for the Datejust as a one-watch collection, I might adva...

Introducing – The New Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Massena Lab Chronographe Télémètre Oct 14, 2025

Introducing – The New Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold

Angelus and Massena LAB return with a second collaboration that once again leans hard into classic mid-century chronograph codes. After the first collaborative project, the 2023 Chronographe Médical, which reintroduced the brand’s vintage tool-watch spirit and the La Fabrique collection, and the recent Chronographe Télémètre established a small-case, hand-wound monopusher as a core design, the […]

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years SJX Watches
Zenith Defies Gravity Again Oct 14, 2025

Zenith Defies Gravity (Again) to Mark 160 Years

Zenith’s 160th anniversary celebration continues with the Defy Zero G, a sapphire-cased watch equipped with the brand’s latest generation, gimbal-like “Gravity Control” escapement module. Available in either clear or deep blue sapphire – both with a lapis lazuli dial – the 46 mm anniversary model is a literal showcase for the innovative cal. 8812 S, which features a gimballed escapement platform that keeps the balance wheel in a horizontal position at all times. Originally developed in 2008 and refined in 2018, the Zero G mechanism is a modern homage to Zenith’s legacy in competitive chronometry and marine navigation. Initial thoughts Today, the Zenith brand is synonymous with the El Primero chronograph movement, launched back in 1969. But outside of that, the manufacture has always been a major force in Swiss precision watchmaking. For decades the brand regularly took home the top prizes at chronometry trials from Neuchâtel and Teddington. Zenith already paid tribute to its past success in competitive chronometry with the G.F.J. cal. 135, which also features a lapis lazuli dial, but it’s reassuring to see the brand made time to bring out one of its more recent developments for its anniversary year. While the days of chronometry trials are long past, Zenith has still managed to make a name for itself when it comes to the accuracy of wrist-worn timepieces - at least theoretically. Back in 2008 the brand unveiled a curious mechanism, with the escapement fu...

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Oct 14, 2025

First Look – The Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Now in Steel

Bremont has a solid portfolio of rugged tool watches designed for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. Recently restructured under Davide Cerrato, Bremont’s 2024 Terrra Nova collection was the CEO’s trial by fire. With its cushion-shaped cases, vintage details, and excellent legibility, the Terra Nova collection is designed to capture the elemental spirit of yesteryear’s military […]

Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Oct 14, 2025

Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial

Parmigiani Fleurier, the elite watch brand founded by master restorer and watchmaker Michel Parmigiani in 1996, underwent a management change in 2021 with the appointment of Guido Terreni. Terreni’s roadmap for Parmigiani involved streamlining the collections and focusing on a new collection derived from Michel Parmigiani’s Tonda watch. Released that same year, the Tonda PF is a lineup […]

Best of Both Worlds for The Citizen’s 30th Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen s 30th Anniversary Citizen Oct 14, 2025

Best of Both Worlds for The Citizen’s 30th Anniversary

Citizen marks 30 years of its upmarket The Citizen collection with a matching pair of limited-edition 30th anniversary watches with aquiline ivory dials. Representing the best of both worlds, the pair offer Citizen’s best calibres in mechanical and analogue quartz watchmaking: one contains the automatic Caliber 0200, while the other boasts the top of the line, feature-rich Eco-Drive A060. The Citizen Caliber 0200 30th Anniversary Initial Thoughts While little known outside Japan and certain enthusiast circles, the eagle-crested The Citizen watches are arguably the best Citizen has to offer, and also a tantalising value proposition. Both models are good in their own right, though the automatic is the winner here. The Calibre 0200 model is probably the best made-in-Japan integrated bracelet sports watch currently available, combining the impressive case and dial finishing we’ve come to expect from premium Japanese watches, and a significantly more upscale movement than the King Seiko Vanac or Credor Locomotive. The quartz model is appealing, The Citizen has plenty of other quartz offerings with the same movement but more interesting dials. The Citizen Eco-Drive 30th Anniversary Eco-Drive cal. A060 The conical bezel and flat lug chamfers of the Eco-Drive model are flat polished using a spinning tin-plate, creating a near distortion-free mirror finish. A Duratec “Platinum” treatment, with a hardness of over 1,000 Vickers, protects the case and bracelet, and also gives ...

Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen Fratello
Citizen Citizen recently organized Oct 14, 2025

Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen

Citizen recently organized a traveling exhibition showcasing its 55-year history with titanium. I was invited to the Paris edition, so I made my way to the French capital with my camera and notepad. In case you were unaware, Citizen was the first brand to make a wristwatch out of this lightweight metal. While titanium may […] Visit Celebrating 55 Years Of Titanium Watches With Citizen to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition to Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition Oct 14, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition to Singapore

As part of a world tour to mark Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing 270th anniversary, The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence lands in Singapore from October 25 to 26, 2025. After stops in Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Abu Dhabi, the event will take place at Parkview Square and will be open to the public. The exhibition showcases the brand’s legacy through thematic chapters, featuring both historic timepieces and artifacts as well as an exploration of métiers d’art techniques like guilloché, which are a specialty of the brand. There will also be an immersive astronomical installation that invites guests to reflect on their own passage through time. A highlight of the exhibition is a special tribute to The Berkley Grand Complication, which remains the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, and the only Chinese perpetual calendar. The watch itself will not be present – the owner is an American – but a special display will provide a look inside the masterpiece. The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence takes place over the weekend of October 25-26. Admission is free but attendees are encouraged to register online in advance to reserve their preferred time slot. Parkview Square600 North Bridge Road, 3rd FloorSingapore 188778  

Oris Teams Up with Cervo Volante for a Fall Appropriate Big Crown Pointer Date with a “Burnt Maple” Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Teams Up Oct 13, 2025

Oris Teams Up with Cervo Volante for a Fall Appropriate Big Crown Pointer Date with a “Burnt Maple” Dial

Most enthusiast focused brands would find themselves extremely fortunate to have a single watch or collection that achieves “icon” status with the finicky hobbyist crowd. It’s not secret that watch enthusiasts are a picky and demanding bunch, and the watches that rise to the top and achieve a level of support by consensus are genuinely pretty special. Oris, I think, has at least two watches that fall easily into this category. There’s the Divers Sixty-Five (and the newer Divers Date) that have become forum favorites and are frequently spoken of when it comes time to recommend a solid sports watch to a budding collector. And then there’s the Big Crown Pointer Date. For my money, this is the iconic Oris. While dive watches, in general, might be more popular, the pointer date is special because it fills a very specific, old-fashioned niche, and there are just fewer brands making anything similar that’s still approachable for a casual or value oriented consumer. It has, of course, been a platform for many limited and special editions over the years, and the new version seen here made in collaboration with frequent partner Cervo Volante really stands out.  Cervo Volante is a strap and leather goods maker that Oris has partnered with for a number of years now. The brand specializes in sustainably sourced deer leather, and the straps they have crafted for the Oris watches they’ve worked on are truly exceptional. Cervo Volante’s mission also folds in nicely with O...

Longines’ Ultra-Chron Classic is a Double-Certified, High-Beat Chronometer SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic E168 or IWC Oct 13, 2025

Longines’ Ultra-Chron Classic is a Double-Certified, High-Beat Chronometer

Longines continues to mine its archive to good effect with the Ultra-Chron Classic, a faithful reissue of the brand’s pioneering high-frequency wristwatch first launched in 1967. The Ultra-Chron Classic is more than just a remake of a vintage watch. While it has a clean, period-correct vintage aesthetic, the mechanics are entirely modern, namely a high-beat, 5 Hz automatic movement that is both COSC chronometer and TIMELAB certified. Initial thoughts Longines does well at bringing back beloved designs from the past, but built to modern standards. The Ultra-Chron Classic is the latest in a long line of historical reissues that began nearly two decades ago with the bestselling Legend Diver. The Ultra-Chron Classic is impressively faithful to the original in style, but because of that, not especially exciting in terms of design, retaining the all-business look that was common among high-performance gentlemen’s wristwatches of the era; the same criticism could be leveled at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic E168 or IWC Ingenieur ref. 666. In other words, the dial, hands, and indices are mostly true to the source material, but this pared-back look may have a harder time standing out in today’s market than it once did. Dressy? Classic? Or plain? Looks aside, the Ultra-Chron Classic is modern Longines at its best: a solid build, a brand-exclusive movement, proper sizing, and sensible pricing. The movement in particular stands out for being notable high-spec with its 36,000 bea...

First Look – The Compact ArtyA Luminity Wavy 35mm, with a New Micro-rotor Calibre Monochrome
Oct 13, 2025

First Look – The Compact ArtyA Luminity Wavy 35mm, with a New Micro-rotor Calibre

Not so long ago, this summer, ArtyA, the avant-garde, family-run Geneva atelier steered by Yvan Arpa, launched the Luminity Wavy collection, debuting 40mm timepieces, pairing sculpture-like titanium or full-sapphire cases. Inside was the brand’s first proprietary micro-rotor calibre, AMR-02, developed with the specialist movement maker Telos. The idea was to let movement and light do […]

Introducing: The Fluid Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire Fratello
Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Oct 13, 2025

Introducing: The Fluid Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire

In the words of Daniel Arsham, “My work is about collapsing time. You’re not quite sure if it’s an object from the past or the future.” The Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire is a creation from the man who wants to confuse you and have you start wondering from what era this watch […] Visit Introducing: The Fluid Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire to read the full article.