Deployant
Review: The New Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel
Chopard reissues the acclaimed L.U.C 1860 watch - now without a date display - in proprietary Lucent Steel and with a salmon-coloured dial.
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Deployant
Chopard reissues the acclaimed L.U.C 1860 watch - now without a date display - in proprietary Lucent Steel and with a salmon-coloured dial.
Time+Tide
There’s no questioning the icon status of Heuer among racing chronographs, and one of the main reasons is the Monaco. Boldfaced imitators aside, there really isn’t another watch like it, and for good reason: it was a tough nut to crack. Putting a then-new automatic chronograph movement in a square case (and then making the … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Monaco Skeleton sends the racing classic accelerating toward the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last week, we published a story on a Rolex Submariner watch that was salvaged by Australian surfer Matt Cuddihy. He found the watch trapped beneath a rock while snorkelling. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches) When we here at Time+Tide were pushing around the idea of publishing a … ContinuedThe post We asked you to describe the condition of this salvaged Rolex Submariner – these are our 5 favourite responses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Peak Design x Nomad The New Peak Design x Nomad Collaboration Is Their Toughest Mobile Accessory Yet Via Peak Design x Nomad Peak Design is no stranger to our weekly WSG column. You’d be hard pressed to find another camera bag and accessory brand that can offer a product that’s better designed in terms of seamless functionality and aesthetics. It turns out that PD also offers an entire catalog of mobile accessories not limited to cases, mounts and an array of attachments to turn your phone into an all-in-one creative hub. Via Peak Design x Nomad With their latest collaboration with Nomad, a brand known for making sleek mobile cases that don’t lack in the toughness department, Peak Design is offering an attractive option for someone in the market for an iPhone 14 Pro and iPhone 14 Pro Max. The entire frame is constructed out of a resilient and lightweight polycarbonate material fortified with TPU bumpers that give the entire case 15 feet of drop protection. The main feature however is that the case features PD’s proprietary SlimLink system that allows the l...
Deployant
The The HYT Moon Runner Ghost and HYT Moon Runner Desert watches offer a captivating blend of innovative engineering and intricate craftsmanship, centered around the captivating theme of lunar seas and moon phases. Each model is part of a limited edition collection, with only 15 pieces available for each design.
Quill & Pad
Twenty-one years after the launch of Ulysse Nardin's Freak changed the watch industry forever, the Freak S reinvigorates the collection with a new aesthetic and crazy mechanics reminding us of the modern roots of this company.
Worn & Wound
Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past. This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...
Hodinkee
It's the surprise (dive) watch of the summer.
Worn & Wound
SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...
Worn & Wound
There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. There are few better ways to channel the warm glow of the summer sun on your wrist than with a gold-toned watch case. New in the shop is a pair of gold-toned stainless steel cased Promaster Dive watches from Citizen that could be your next go-to summer watch. Let’s take a closer look at this pair of divers that are just begging to hit the beach, pool, or lake. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Summer-Ready Promaster Dive Eco-Drive in Two Stunning Colors appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Sotheby’s hosted their live Important Watches sale on June 9 and their Fine Watches sale ended on June 15 Two Paul Newman-owned Daytona watches headlined the Important Watches Sale and sold for a combined US$2.2m Between the two auctions, total watch sales of US$21.03m were achieved Earlier this month, two Sotheby’s auctions were held with … ContinuedThe post Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A GMT watch is more of a function than a style, yet I expect your mind goes straight to a red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, or perhaps a red and black ‘Coke’. It’s now 10 years since Rolex first launched the 116710BLNR, so maybe the ‘Batman’ is more your style. Whichever is your favourite, a bi-color bezel is a common sight on a GMT watch. A couple of months back, Bell & Ross added another iteration to their GMT lineup. This one uses the BR 03 outline as its base, and combines it with a sharp blue and gray colorway. The blue isn’t restricted to one half of the bezel only though, which results in a vibrant looking watch. On paper, there’s a lot to like about the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, but how good is it on the wrist? With Bell & Ross’s more typical square cased watches, the dial is relatively simple. Often a black dial, large indices, bold sword hands and plenty of lume. A real utilitarian look. There are some BR 03 models which are altogether more lavish. This is one. The blue dial is bright, with a sunburst finish, and is as vibrant in real life as you’d expect. What’s especially nice to see is that although Bell & Ross’s familiar design language is present in the large numerals at the cardinal points, they are applied indices rising above the dial with superb vertical brushing on the top surfaces. The other indices are also applied, with a generous amount of lume in each. Bell & Ross have taken the familiar, and elevated it into something more elegant. Th...
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, the popularity of vintage watches has had some ups and downs, to say the least. It was only about five or six years ago that vintage was all anyone in our community seemed to be talking about. Rare references from Rolex and Patek were setting auction records, and enthusiasts who got into the hobby before the vintage boom suddenly found themselves with collections of real and surprising value on their hands. Things have calmed down a bit recently, and while I certainly wouldn’t say vintage is over by any means, it’s become a tougher nut to crack. Consumers are, correctly, more concerned with authenticity and originality than they ever have been, which has changed the landscape considerably. Among other things, it’s opened the door for brands to get into the vintage game, making rare references from their back catalogs available to the public with the promise of proper and careful restorations, ensuring the value and history of these watches haven’t been neglected by an inexperienced watchmaker or service center. Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps the highest profile brand to enter this market, and they’ve just unveiled their second capsule collection in their ongoing series, The Collectibles. A pair of Memovoxes from The Collectibles collection Last week, at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Beverly Hills, collectors gathered for the big unveiling of the new eleven piece collection. Spanning periods of the brand’s history from the 1920s to the...
SJX Watches
Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 has quickly gained popularity since its introduction more than three years ago as it offers the popular integrated-bracelet aesthetic at an affordable price point. In March, the brand added new dial options to the collection, and now it has added more horological power to the smallest model that’s 35 mm in diameter and was previously only available with a quartz movement. Initial thoughts A slightly disappointing aspect of the PRX collection was the fact that the 35 mm model only had a quartz movement, until now. Now anyone who wants a mechanical movement in a more wearable size is catered for. The overall design of the watch, including its waffle-pattern dial and brushed steel case, remains largely unchanged – a good thing since it is precisely these elements that first captured people’s attention in the first place. The green version stands out as a personal favourite among the new models and I expect it will be a strong seller overall given the popularity of the colour now. Starting at US$695 and going up to US$750 for the mother-of-pearl dial, the new 35 mm models are slightly pricier than the original. While the increase in price is perhaps linked to inflation, compared to many of the other integrated bracelet sports watches on the market, it still offers great value for the overall feel it gives. Now at 35 mm The latest version of the PRX collection introduces a remarkable decrease in size when compared to the original model whi...
Worn & Wound
Nearly every luxury watchmaker is feeling the need to have a sporty collection or reference in their stable these days, much the same as some of the great sports car marques needing an SUV all of the sudden. It’s just practical. Just what makes a watch sport worthy is up for debate, but it generally comes with a bit of water resistance, the ability to absorb a shock or two, and a rubber or textile strap. Bright colors optional. In reality it means a watch that’s better suited to everyday wear, and goes with a broader selection of your wardrobe. The sporting element simply implies comfort and practicality. Parmigiani Fleurier may be known for their formal wear, but they’re no strangers to the sport watch, and this week, the Tonda line gets a completely revamped sport collection called the Tonda PF Sport. The new Tonda PF Sport collection will be replacing the Tonda GT collection with the introduction of 4 references that span steel and rose gold within a time and date, and chronograph configuration. The new watches bring a tighter cohesion to the Tonda family overall, taking a cleaner approach to the theme. The biggest shift from the GT collection is the date migration away from the unique oversized 12 o’clock position, and into the more controversial 4:30 position on the chronograph, and the 6 o’clock position on the time and date model. The Tonda GT watches had plenty of quirks, from their date execution, to the month display of the calendar models labeled, qu...
Time+Tide
At this specific moment in my life, there’s no way I should even think about buying another watch. On the back of a series of interest rates hike and with a looming renovation for our family home, this just isn’t the right time to splash the cash. And yet… The problem with doing this job … ContinuedThe post Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei is joined by Hervé Schlüchter for the first time ever, to unravel the L’Essential, the first watch of his namesake brand. Hervé Schlüchter was born in the Swiss Jura and is a former student of the watchmaking school in Porrentruy. In 2000, Hervé Schlüchter joined the independent brand Bovet and stayed for 16 years […]
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in 42 mm last year, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time now gets a more comfortable 39 mm case. The new variant retains all the appealing design elements of the original that are loosely inspired by the brand’s first dual time zone watch from 1925, including the legible dial and a vintage-style, bi-directional bezel. Initial thoughts The Spirit Zulu Time is a great example of how to execute a vintage-style watch. However, a significant drawback was the large, 42 mm size of the original, which was quite hefty on the wrist and not quite suited to the retro style. Longines clearly recognised this issue and responded surprisingly quickly in introducing a more wearable size. While the 39 mm size is certainly positive, the case thickness of 13.5 mm leaves it notably thick relative to the diameter; the thickness is comparable to some automatic chronographs. As a result, it may feel clunky on the wrist for some. That said, the reason for the case height is fundamental: the watch is powered by the same movement as the original. Still, the Spirit Zulu Time continues to be an excellent value proposition, starting at US$3,050 in steel while the steel and gold model is US$4,200. The fact that the Zulu Time is a genuine GMT with an independent local-time hour hand makes it a standout amongst affordable dual-time zone watches. Although it may fall short in terms of movement sophistication compared to the similarly-priced Tudor Black Bay GMT, it has the advantage of ...
Worn & Wound
There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...
Teddy Baldassarre
If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...
Worn & Wound
A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making. The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...
Worn & Wound
The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term. Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...
Worn & Wound
IWC’s Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” edition of their ceramic cased chronograph has been an object of fascination for many since its release last year. While it lacks a certain practicality (it’s 44.5mm wide) and versatility (it’s, well, bright white) it’s undeniably striking, and would seem to be the perfect watch for a handful of very specific purposes, one of which is surely sipping on brightly colored cocktail, oceanside, in Miami. There’s nothing else quite like it on the market (besides the other colored, ceramic IWC chronographs), and it presents as an interesting contrast in design sensibilities to the “normal” IWC chronographs, the ones in steel, with an altogether more sober vibe. They’re the same, but also wildly different, and illustrate how IWC has one foot in contemporary sleekness and another in paying homage to their own history, visible on the same chronograph platform. Last week, the Tahoe got a sequel of sorts with a new Big Pilot perpetual calendar using the same materials and design notes as the chronograph. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe had been seen on the wrist of IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton recently, so the official news of its release to the public isn’t a huge shock, but as an admirer of the Tahoe chronograph it’s fun to see its expansion to another product line, and makes us wonder if we could see a Tahoe edition of the simplest IWC pilot watches. A Mark XX Tahoe? Take my money. That’s enough...
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross has just released their latest interpretation of their urban living-inspired BR 05 GMT range, the Sky Blue. With its mixture of cool steel and blue highlights, this automatic watch definitely lives up to its heavenly name. The BR 05 GMT Sky Blue is a watch designed for the urban inhabitant that enjoys a subtle – yet noticeable – presence on their wrist. With its squared design, it’s bold without being ostentatious, the way any good watch worth its salt should be. The Sky Blue is able to toe the line between being vintage-inspired and totally contemporary, drawing at times from classic integrated bracelet sports watch designs, but in a notably Bell & Ross way, using their well understood square case as a starting point. The look of the watch itself is impressively modern. The steel case is satin-polished for a warmer look while the caseback is sapphire, featuring a 360° oscillating weight. It’s the subtle touches that are now synonymous with Bell & Ross that elevates this watch above others under the label’s offerings. The Sky Blue, like others in the BR 05 GMT range, is powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.325 automatic movement (a rebadged Sellita SW330). This will give the wearer a 42-hour power reserve. This watch also features a GMT complication that allows for the tracking of a second time zone. Cleverly painted on the flange, day and evening are distinguished by a split color scheme: gray for the daytime (6 am to 6 pm) and blue for the night-time (6 p...
Hodinkee
It's no longer a secret relegated to Lewis Hamilton's wrist, but rather a welcome addition to the watch world.
Quill & Pad
Sometimes good things do come in smaller packages. When H. Moser & Cie introduced the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater in 2019, it boasted a diameter of 43 mm. Now in 2022, we welcome a new version with a 40 mm diameter case. That’s just one of several changes making this watch even more appealing to an even larger group of (potential) clients.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Brings Their Iconic C111 Prototype Into The Future With The Vision One-Eleven EV Concept Via Mercedes-Benz The Mercedes Benz C111 acted as the car manufacturer’s test bed for risk-taking and game-changing innovation for new technologies including turbo-charged engines, multi-link rear suspensions and the iconic gull-wing doors. This week, Mercedes pays homage to the C111 by bringing the berlinetta-styled 2-door into the future with the Vision One-Eleven EV Concept – a fierce and ultramodern take on the 70’s original. Via Mercedes-Benz Akin to the OG C111, the Vision One-Eleven is not shy with the body color. The EV supercar concept is dressed in a copper-orange shade with glossy black accents along the vented hood and bottom frame. The mid-body is wildly curvaceous and the lower anatomy aggressively displays a frame that is just centimeters off the asphalt. The gradual upward angling of the lower frame transitioning to a boxy posterior adds to the untamed nature of the electric vehicle. Via Mercedes-Benz There’s no shortage of space-...
Time+Tide
War played a crucial role in the evolution of the wristwatch. Historians believe the idea of strapping watches to soldier’s wrists was probably conceived during the Boer War, although there are some accounts of Napoleon being frustrated by having to constantly fumble about for his pocket watch during battle. But the real game-changer that made … ContinuedThe post How smartwatches could protect soldiers from chemical warfare appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
If you’re at all a Lange enthusiast like GaryG, you’ll likely understand the most compelling reason for buying the Odysseus is that it's an A. Lange & Söhne watch you can wear every day.
Time+Tide
There’s no doubt that IWC is one of the most important players in the pilot’s watch game. Without digging too deep, numerous legendary models have emerged, from the very first Mark 11 issued to the RAF in 1948 to the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar. It is that very first Mark-series watch that is being … ContinuedThe post IWC celebrates 75 years of the Mark series with a silver-dialled Mark XX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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