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Up Close: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch Nov 27, 2024

Up Close: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch

Historically known for cutting-edge solar-powered watches – including the most accurate wristwatch ever – Citizen has more recently embarked on growing its lineup of mechanical watches. That began with the well-received Calibre 0200 wristwatch, and continued this year with the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a vintage-inspired pocket watch equipped with the all-new cal. 0270 movement. Initial thoughts The anniversary pocket watch is surprising: the watch isn’t quite what it appears to be. At a distance it could pass for a vintage pocket watch, albeit a new-old-stock example, reflecting a design that stays faithful to the aesthetics of the railroad pocket watches that Citizen supplied to Japanese railways in the 20th century. However, it reveals itself to be a modern watch up close, firstly because of the unusual dial texture that mimics Japanese paper but is actually achieved with metal deposition. More importantly, the cal. 0270 is a newly developed movement. It was evidently constructed with old-school pocket watches in mind, but it features modern elements like a free-sprung balance and sharply-shaped bridges. As with the automatic cal. 0200 before, the quality of construction and finishing of the cal. 0270 is impressive, especially given the price. Amongst hand-wind movements in the US$10,000-and-below category, the cal. 0270 easily ranks amongst the best. However, the anniversary pocket watch is still a pocket watch, which m...

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300 Worn & Wound
Nov 26, 2024

Hands-On: the Jacques Bianchi JB300

Last week, Jacques Bianchi released what is probably their most boring watch in recent memory, and the results speak for themselves. Compared to many of the brand’s recent releases, the new Jacques Bianchi JB300 is inarguably their most conventional, forfeiting many of the details that helped set the many iterations of the JB200 apart. But in that simplicity there’s magic, and this latest entry in the Jacques Bianchi catalog is a strong new addition to the military-inspired dive watch category, offering collectors a rock-solid option at a fantastic value. Put simply, the JB300 is a classic military diver in the truest sense, while still managing to hold onto a little bit of the dramatic flair we’ve come to expect from a brand that typically decorates their dials with divers and cephalopods. The JB300 draws the bulk of its inspiration from the original JB300, an early ‘90s dive watch issued by the French Army to combat divers. While not an exact 1-to-1 reproduction of that watch, which seems to have been produced in extremely limited quantities (less than 1000 by most counts), the new JB300 is a very close facsimile. Jacques Bianchi has done a good job updating the original JB300 for a modern audience though, toying with the specifics of both dial and case to bring them more comfortably into the 21st century. Part of this was likely dictated by necessity. A cursory search will find that most vintage examples of the JB300 feature the symbol for l’Armée de Terre (t...

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm Nov 26, 2024

First Look – The New Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm in Sage Green and Midnight Blue

Next year marks the 50th anniversary of the iconic Laureato, first introduced by Girard-Perregaux in 1975. Its distinctive design-centred around a tonneau-shaped case, slim, raised octagonal bezel with circular plinth, and integrated bracelet-has evolved over decades while remaining true to the original spirit, a tradition upheld by the latest releases. The two new time-only Laureato […]

Rumors Become Reality: Sony Unveils New Flagships Worn & Wound
Nov 26, 2024

Rumors Become Reality: Sony Unveils New Flagships

In late October/early November, I started seeing various “rumor mill” sites teasing some new cameras from Sony. While my initial hope was for something in the Alpha 7 line, it was quickly determined that Sony was updating the A1, their sports/action camera line. This new camera has been dubbed the A1 II, although I’ll frequently refer to it as “Mark 2” to avoid any confusion when comparing models and specs. One of the best ways I’ve found to describe this camera is that it updates the A1 with features from other flagship models, which should position this camera as the “go to” professional camera for both photo and video, if you’re in the market for such a camera. One of the newest features, a first for the Alpha line of cameras, is a “dynamic subject recognition” which allows it to switch between various modes, without any intervention from the photographer. Additionally, the new mark 2 features impressive in-body image stabilization, offering 8.5 stops for the center of the frame. Among the list of features that have carried over, the mark 2 has the newest AI chip which boosts auto focus capabilities (30% improvement in eye detection for animals and humans and a 50% boost in bird eye detection), 30 frames per second image capture, and a 50 MP sensor. It’s my understanding that Sony has targeted wildlife and action photographers with the A1 line, and this mark 2 should suit the needs of these photographers with ease. Just as every watch needs a str...

Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Nov 26, 2024

Industry News – Opening of Applications for the Second Edition of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

In late 2022, luxury powerhouse Louis Vuitton announced a rather surprising but promising concept, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. A biennial prize organized by its Swiss-based watch manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, its mission is “to recognize a passion for watchmaking savoir-faire, creativity, and innovation in the pursuit of excellence, […]

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5711/1500A Becomes Most Nov 26, 2024

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto SJX Watches
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Christopher Nov 26, 2024

New Dials for the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

Christopher Ward just released the C1 Bel Canto Classic, a new version of its best-selling hourstriker in four colours: silver, blue, green and gold. The Bel Canto Classic retains the familiar design of the original, but gains updated dial aesthetics with laser-etched guilloché, Roman numerals, and a domed “glassbox” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts A hit at launch thanks to its affordability – and a well-timed debut while pandemic-induced demand was strong – the Bel Canto is now Christopher Ward’s best known model. The reason behind its success is obvious - the striking hour complication is rare and even rarer at an affordable price. Because of the price, the Bel Canto is executed simply and functionally. The base movement is an inexpensive Sellita SW200-1, while the striking module is clever and fairly basic in construction. But the module has been smartly constructed to expose much of the strikework, giving the watch a complex appearance. The hammer and wire gong visible above the dial plate, along with the main operating lever and a column wheel selector. The Bel Canto Classic is essentially an evolution of the original model, with the dial updates giving it a slightly more classical appearance. Priced at US$4,540 on a titanium bracelet, the Bel Canto Classic remains a good value proposition, like the original. Affordable chimes on the hour The Bel Canto Classic retains the same proportions, with the titanium case measuring 41 mm in diameter and 13.2 mm ...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special! WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 26, 2024

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Ressence Introduces the Type 8 “Indigo” Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 25, 2024

Ressence Introduces the Type 8 “Indigo”

When you think of Ressence, the first things that come to mind are likely the brand’s forward thinking, non traditional design language, and their completely unique mechanical solution for telling time via a series of rotating circles as opposed to traditional hands. You probably don’t think of traditional craft – given the hyper-modern aesthetic of the brand, most of their signature designs forego the tenets of classical watchmaking. There are exceptions to be found, of course, in the Ressence’s library of one-offs and limited editions, but classifying their approach, on the whole, as somewhat “industrial” isn’t too far off the mark. That’s what makes a watch like the Type 8 Indigo so interesting. It’s one of those exceptions, and in it we can see the many different things a Ressence watch can be.  The Type 8 Indigo is Ressence’s contribution to the The Indigo Project, led by Shellman, the brand’s Tokyo based Japanese retail partner. The design of the dial incorporates a single indigo dyed silk thread, placed in a spiral pattern by a skilled artisan. Indigo dyeing is part of a craft tradition in Japan spanning centuries, and the watch is a tribute to both Japanese tradition and an impressive design object on its own. Because of the dye and the nature of the thread itself, a range of blue tones are visible on the dial. According to Ressence, the total length of the thread is 2.5 meters, and it measures just 0.2mm in diameter, which underscores the in...

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale SJX Watches
Seiko Nov 25, 2024

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale

A thematic sale of watches related to Japan, Toki just concluded at Phillips in Hong Kong over the weekend, notching up HK$61.8 million with fees, equivalent to US$7.95 million. Comprised of watches sold in Japan or made for the country, the catalogue included familiar names like Seiko and Casio, but also independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno, along with a host of limited editions by Swiss brands for the Japanese market. A novel concept given the dominance of Swiss brands in watch auctions, both in terms of value and volume, Toki surprised on the upside. The 115-lot auction included lots of surprising and notable results, like HK$1.14 million (about US$147,000) for the Casio G-Shock Dream Project, double the original retail price. Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum. Image – Phillips Toki and the subsequent main sale showed the momentum established during the Geneva auctions two weeks ago carried on into Hong Kong. The strength of the sale is also credit to the Phillips watch department in Asia led by Thomas Perazzi, which conceived Toki a year ago with the help of Tokyo-based consultants for Phillips, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto. The unusual theme was realised well with a carefully curated catalogue. Many of the watches in Toki were simply unavailable anywhere else. With only 35 made and all sold via a lottery in 2020, where else can one find a solid-gold G-Shock? This reflected in the diverse nature of the bidders. Most bids in the sale came from phone bidders an...

A Modern Look for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077 SJX Watches
Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077 Breguet Nov 25, 2024

A Modern Look for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph 7077

Breguet gently revamps its flagship chronograph, the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077, with the addition of “Breguet Blue” dial matched with a movement finished in dark grey. Originally only available with a classic silvered guilloche dial, the Tradition chronograph now gains a more modern look with a deep blue and grey palette, while retaining the same innovative chronograph movement. Initial thoughts The Tradition collection is one of the modern-day Breguet’s triumphs. Launched in 2005, the collection draws heavily from the watchmaker’s historic souscription and montre à tact pocket watches, which were created by A.-L. Breguet himself.  Tradition models adopt the highly original movement construction of the pocket watches, transforming them into wristwatch format. The going train layout, frosted bridges, and pare-chute shock-absorbers, for instance, all are faithful to the historic pieces.  Unique in itself for its chronograph construction, the Chronographe Indépendant 7077 is among the most complicated models in the Tradition collection. The original look of a silver guilloché dial worked well, but the deep blue colour of the new model works even better in complementing the exposed mechanics. The chronograph, reinvented The Tradition chronograph exists somewhat outside of the established norms of a chronograph movement, namely the vertical clutch and horizontal coupling. It features a chronograph architecture that is unique in the industry. The cal....

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Malört is Having a Moment, a Very Expensive Banana, and Ridley Scott’s Historical Epics Worn & Wound
Nov 23, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Malört is Having a Moment, a Very Expensive Banana, and Ridley Scott’s Historical Epics

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The New York Times on Malört Every year, the Worn & Wound team descends upon Chicago for the Windup Watch Fair, and every year, locals tell us that we need to try Malört while we are there. Well, that’s not true: some of them beg us to stay away. As spirits go, Malört is one that has one of the more complex regional reputations, both reviled and revered, and even in our age of contraction, still fairly limited to Chicago and its surroundings. But the popularity of Malört is growing, if slowly. Enough so that the New York Times has waded into the scene, with a fairly exhaustive feature on the liquor. Worth a read for sure if you’ve ever tried the stuff, although we can’t guarantee you’ll want to imbibe after reading this piece. Apple TV+ Releases Trailer for The Studio  Whether you enjoy the output of television from Apple TV+ or not, one thing is clear: they have a ton of money to spend. The production values and star studded casts of their original programming is basically unmatched, and that trend appears to be continuing with the trailer for their new series The Studi...

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph Worn & Wound
Hamilton Chronograph eBay Finds Nov 22, 2024

eBay Finds: A Baylor in Great Condition, the Historic Accutron Astronaut, and a Classic Hamilton Chronograph

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Computron  Another eBay Finds, another vintage LED for your bidding pleasure! This Computron example is one of (if not the) earliest Bulova LED’s. Sometimes referred to as the “Big Block” owing to its big, chunky gold nugget style case. This case is in pretty good shape, with some marks and wear from use but hasn’t been polished. The LED window has no cracks, and all the LED segments work, and the watch runs and works properly per the seller. The watch comes with its original integrated bracelet as well. These are on the scarcer side, and it’s nice to find an example like this that looks good and works well. View auction here Vintage Baylor  Here we have a simple little Baylor sporty dress watch with a great design. The watch has a chrome plated case with stainless steel back, and measures 34mm wide. Case is in good condition with no apparent pitting that I could see. The two-tone silver quadrant style dial is nice and clean, with stylized Arabic numerals on the even hours and simple stick markers for the odd hours. There is no movement picture but the seller states the watch runs and keeps time. It even comes with the original box, always a good thing. Simple...

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde “Quiet Nov 22, 2024

Hands-On: the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

“Quiet luxury.” That’s the phrase that kept getting thrown at me during my week with the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde. “This is so quiet luxury.” It was an almost near-universal response, a constant chorus scoring my time with one of the most talked about new dress watches of 2024. Weirdly, that wasn’t my experience of the watch at all. To me, the Toric Petite Seconde was a dress watch for the guy who doesn’t need to get all that dressy. The guy more likely to be caught in a green chore coat than a cashmere sweater.  Cards on the table, my wardrobe is not all that luxurious. I tend to prefer Levi’s with Blundstones or L.L. Bean flannels and Patagonia Jackets over Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli. A sizable portion of my clothing has been purchased at REI. It’s an aesthetic my brother jokingly calls my “man of the people look” and, while I think that may be an overstatement, it’s probably not far off the mark. Unsurprisingly, my taste in watches tends to skew in a similar direction - I have a predilection for great dive watches and solid steel three-handers. Sure, a two-tone Datejust might make its way into the rotation here or there, but, to balance it out, I’ve spent a good portion of this year falling back in love with digital watches. I tell you all this so I can say, honestly, that when a brand like Parmigiani Fleurier releases a watch like the Toric, a small seconds dress watch available exclusively in platinum or rose gold, I...

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio SJX Watches
Breitling s private-equity owners last Nov 22, 2024

Universal Genève Returns with Polerouter SAS Tribute Trio

Having been acquired by Breitling’s private-equity owners last year, Universal Genève is scheduled to officially come back to life in 2026. But ahead of its revival in two years, the brand has unveiled a trio of one-off vintage remakes, the Polerouter SAS Tribute. Commemorating the 70th anniversary of the inaugural Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight across the North Pole from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, the three watches are modelled on the Polerouter, a watch created especially for the pilots of SAS. Notably, the Polerouter was designed by the late Gérald Genta when he was just 23 years old. The SAS Tribute is made up of three unique watches, one each in stainless steel, 18k white gold, and 18k red gold, with the white gold example slated to be sold at Phillips in May 2025 with proceeds going to a Geneva arts school. The remaining pair will be retained by Universal Genève as part of its archive and will not be offered for sale. Initial thoughts The Polerouter trio are essentially faithful remakes, right down to the new-old-stock cal. 1-69  micro-rotor movement inside, but with dials in modern colours and finishes. While drawing inspiration from the vintage design, they look modern. The trio isn’t particularly imaginative, though it will appeal to fans of the brand’s vintage watches. Such remakes aren’t enough to revive a Universal Genève, though the brand’s attention to its historical models will be appreciated by enthusiasts. Whether or not Universal...

Business News: Seddiqi Introduces Rolex Certified Pre-Owned SJX Watches
Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Nov 22, 2024

Business News: Seddiqi Introduces Rolex Certified Pre-Owned

The Middle East’s largest luxury watch retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, has just announced the debut of Rolex Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) in Dubai, starting with a dedicated CPO salon and followed by offerings online. Kicking off with several million dollars of inventory, Rolex CPO cements family-run Seddiqi’s status as one of the world’s leading Rolex retailers. While Rolex CPO in most countries is associated with recent models, Seddiqi’s CPO programme aims to go beyond that and also offer watches of interest to enthusiasts. The CPO line-up, including rare gem-set as well as vintage models, has been curated by members of the Seddiqi family, including chief executive Mohammed Seddiqi. “[CPO] not only enhances our overall offering but also creates an exciting new platform for watch enthusiasts to pursue their passion for exceptional timepieces,” says Mr Seddiqi, “[And] providing them with a certified pathway to acquire elusive and rare timepieces.” As is the norm for Rolex CPO, each watch at the CPO salon has been serviced and certified by Rolex. As a result, all watches will be accompanied by a CPO guarantee card and two-year warranty. The CPO salon will open November 29, 2024 inside the Rolex boutique in Wafi Mall, followed by CPO offerings on Seddiqi’s online store in early 2025. For more information, visit Seddiqi.com  

Hands-On: the Buser Fréres Marine 38 Worn & Wound
Nov 21, 2024

Hands-On: the Buser Fréres Marine 38

Whenever a new brand pops up I’m always intrigued. And while I’ve got nothing against a good ol’ dive or field watch, my interest is always piqued if it’s something with a more classic vibe. Especially if there’s some real watchmaking pedigree involved.  Buser Fréres is a newly revived brand originally dating back all the way to 1892. It survived the quartz crisis but initially seized all activities in the year 2000. Twenty-three years later German brand Dekla – who’s been designing and manufacturing watches under their own name for 10 years – revived the brand and launched the first models earlier this year. I’ve been a happy Dekla owner for the last 4 years, so naturally I was thrilled to see the line expanded with the Buser Fréres brand.  While some would rush to categorize Buser Fréres as a micro brand – and nothing wrong with that in particular – I’d just like to point out a couple of facts before we do just that. When I hear the term “micro brand” I tend to associate it with outsourced components brought together into a final product. Once again I’d like to stress: nothing wrong with that. But Buser Fréres offers something of a different recipe as they produce almost everything but the movement themselves.  For 10 years Dekla has been making watch dials, cases and hands in a wide array of materials, sizes and configurations, and that’s what sets Buser Fréres apart from many others in the space – and price bracket. From Grand ...

Hamilton Watches and the American Century: A History of Horological In Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Nov 21, 2024

Hamilton Watches and the American Century: A History of Horological In

Even though it has been making its watches in Switzerland for more than 50 years, there are few watchmakers more ingrained in Americana than Hamilton Watch Company, which was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892. One of the most important and inventive watchmaking firms in an era when the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, Hamilton has played a vital role in building and growing the nation — from timing the railroads that knitted it together, to supplying the troops that kept it free, to outfitting the entertainment icons that made it the pop culture capital of the world. Today, Hamilton has become respected the world over for its timepieces, while somehow managing never to lose sight of its humble origins and its distinctly American spirit. Here is the story of how Hamilton achieved its unique spot in both U.S. and horological history. Lancaster's historic Central Market First, a bit about Lancaster: It’s one of the oldest inland cities in the United States, originally called Hickory Town and renamed for the English city of Lancaster by John Wright, an English quaker who emigrated to the colonies in 1724. The original town was part of the Penn’s Woods Charter established in 1681 by William Penn that was the foundation for the original Province of Pennsylvania. Along with the modern city of Lancashire, in England, Lancaster continues to use a red rose, the heraldic badge of the House of Lancaster, as a symbol. Lancaster was the capit...