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News – Now Official, LVMH and TAG Heuer Become Official Partner of Formula 1 for 10 Years Monochrome
TAG Heuer Become Official Partner Oct 2, 2024

News – Now Official, LVMH and TAG Heuer Become Official Partner of Formula 1 for 10 Years

While rumours had circulated for some time, the confirmation has now been made. As Formula 1 gears up to celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2025, there’s major news shaking up its sponsorship landscape. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, has officially signed on as a Global Partner of Formula 1 in a groundbreaking 10-year deal, […]

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Oct 2, 2024

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]

First Look – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “White Star” Monochrome
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy Oct 1, 2024

First Look – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “White Star”

Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before establishing his own Oct 1, 2024

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph When Sep 30, 2024

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph

When I think of Louis Erard, two things tend to spring to mind: regulators and collaborations. As a brand, they have mastered each of these, and they have contributed to some of my favorite releases in recent years (the brand’s whimsical collaborations with Alain Silberstein spring to mind as a high watermark). The consequence of this success is it can be easy to ignore the other things Louis Erard does well. With the new Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph, the brand is trying to remind us. When compared with mother-of-pearl dialed regulators, this latest trio of limited edition sports watches - each of which will be available in a “99-piece limited edition numbered in multiples of 3” - is a more down-the-middle release than we’re used to seeing from Louis Erard. But as one might expect from the brand, a closer look will reveal Louis Erard’s signature touch. On its surface, the 2300 Sport Chronograph is a fairly by-the-number Valjoux 7750-powered sports chronograph, with a large case (44mm across, 52.4mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick in well-finished Grade 5 Titanium) reminiscent of straight-lug Speedies and Carreras, a black ceramic bezel, and the very familiar 6-9-12 layout with day and date that most often accompanies the iconic movement. But the signature Louis Erard touch is there and, as with so many of their other watches, the magic here comes with the dial. When you take a moment to step back and think about it, chronograph dials - with their multiple ...

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Black Bay vs Rolex Sep 30, 2024

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name?

As I explained in my last piece, I am something of a Black Bay collector myself (picture the meme), having fallen for the 79220N Heritage Black Bay in 2015. Prior to this, however, I had already decided two years previously that I would buy a Rolex Submariner one day, somehow. Today, I want to focus on the 79220N Heritage Black Bay, the 79000N Black Bay 54 and the 124060 Submariner in my collection.

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rolex Submariner Sep 30, 2024

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver

I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...

Introducing – The New Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon Monochrome
Stowa Sep 30, 2024

Introducing – The New Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon

Flieger-style watches tend to share a similar aesthetic across various brands. However, Stowa, one of the most historically significant manufacturers of pilot’s watches, offers various designs while remaining faithful to the original Type A and Type B models. The latest addition to the brand’s Pilot collection presents a strikingly modern interpretation of the Baumuster A. […]

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Horror Movie Experience at the Stanley Hotel, An Enormous Black Hole, and the Swiss Watch Industry Slows Down Worn & Wound
Sep 28, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Horror Movie Experience at the Stanley Hotel, An Enormous Black Hole, and the Swiss Watch Industry Slows Down

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. The Struggling Swiss Watch Industry  Reports continue to surface that point to prolonged troubles and a general downturn in the Swiss watch industry. Forbes reports that according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, exports were down in August by 125,000 units year over year, even while the total value of all exports increased by nearly 8%. A chief cause of the downturn, in addition to a slowing global economy, is likely overproduction of watches and other luxury goods. Johann Rupert, chairman of Richemont, called on watch manufacturers to reduce production across the board. It’s worth pointing out that these export numbers never tell the whole story – these are units sold to retailers, not end users, for the most part. But signs seem to be everywhere that the boom seen during the pandemic across the industry has waned significantly, and the industry as a whole may have returned to what once would have been described as normal.  A Black Hole with a Cosmic Wingspan  The sheer size of space is something that is hard for human beings to comprehend, and a story we saw t...

New: Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon Deployant
Stowa Sep 28, 2024

New: Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon

The Stowa Flieger Verus Black Forest Lagoon is a timepiece that stands out in the crowded market of pilot watches. It is part of Stowa's modern Verus collection and features a 40 mm ‘Black Forest’ case, a nod to the region where the company is based. The design is inspired by the Blautopf in Baden-Württemberg, known for its dark woods and strikingly blue waters, which is reflected in the watch's unique dial design.

Micro-Brand Digest: Featuring Watches from The Sacred Crafts, Barrington Griffiths, and Alato Worn & Wound
Sep 27, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Featuring Watches from The Sacred Crafts, Barrington Griffiths, and Alato

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Alato Watches Swedish brand Alato Klokor was founded in 2023 in Gothenburg by Pierre Strömbäck. With a background in architecture and civil engineering, as well as professional experience in the construction industry, he possesses a keen eye for both form and function. All their watches are designed in their small studio in Sweden and manufactured in Hong Kong by a factory with a proven record for reliability and quality control. They are a small company with big goals. They aim to unite collectors through the stories of their watches. Their first piece is named Arvet (The Legacy), drawing inspiration from the Reuleaux Triangle, a curved geometric shape with a constant width. The latter is formed from the intersection of three circular disks, each with its center on the boundary of the other two. It is named after Franz Reuleaux, a 19th-century German engineer who pioneered the study of machines for translating one type of motion into another. This shape is...

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Sep 27, 2024

Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review

Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look.  In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash SJX Watches
Cartier Crash Sep 27, 2024

A Collector’s Perspective: The Cartier Crash

A fever dream - form that bent and curved the very idea of what a wristwatch could be. The Cartier Crash, born out of myth and mystery, is no conventional timepiece. As established notions of purpose and design in watchmaking, the Crash exists at the intersection of watchmaking and sculpture. To the uninitiated, the Crash may seem bizarre, wildly eccentric for the sake of it, but to those steeped in horology, it is an icon. For me, Crash was more than just an addition to my collection; it was the culmination of years of passion, patience, and persistence. The author and his special order Crash A product of Swinging Sixties London There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that tell stories. The Crash belongs to the latter category. Beyond its appearance, the allure of the Crash also stems from its founding myths. Introduced in 1967 by Cartier London – the jeweller was then three separate companies in Paris, New York, and the British capital – the Crash is easily the most avant-garde watch design ever produced by Cartier. Its warped, melted form defies the conventional standards that most watches adhere to, making it as much an artistic statement as a timekeeper. An example of a vintage London Crash To truly appreciate the significance of the Cartier Crash, one must delve into its history, which is almost as enigmatic as the watch itself. One popular origin story is macabre: a Cartier client wearing a Baignoire Allongée was in a car crash that damag...

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 26, 2024

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch

Nearly everything we regard as a modern luxury was once a military necessity. Okay, maybe that’s too broad a statement. But when you consider the impact of inventions like the Internet (set up as a Department of Defense communications network in 1969) and GPS navigation (which still uses military satellites from the 1970s) - not to mention the rise of the Jeep from humble troop conveyance to luxury SUV; the ubiquity of microwave ovens (which emerged from NATO radar experiments); and the enduring civilian stylishness of accessories like cargo pants and aviator sunglasses - a substantial case can be made that goods made to military specifications, or MIL-SPEC, have made an inestimable impact on everyday life. Nowhere is this influence seen more strongly than in the world of wristwatches - not only those intentionally designed for a military or tactical look, but in many styles and genres throughout the industry.  From Waistcoat to War: Origin of the Wristwatch While it’s unlikely that a distinctly elegant timepiece, like a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, will put you in the mind of battlefields and trenches, the truth is that wristwatches themselves are essentially a military invention - at least, the ones designed for men. Women had been wearing timepieces on pendants and bracelets for decades, since the middle of the 19th Century, but it was the utilitarian needs of soldiers in World War I that ushered them into general usage for ...

The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2024

The New Leica Q3 43mm Has Arrived: Hands-On Impressions From Camera West

Editor’s Note: This post on the new Leica Q3 43mm from Ben Carpenter, Director of Marketing at Camera West, appears in a longer version on the Camera West blog.  Today, Leica announced the Leica Q3 43, a highly anticipated addition to their popular Leica Q series. At Camera West and Leica Store San Francisco, we’ve long been hoping for a longer focal length in the Q lineup, and many of those that we meet through our stores have expressed the same. It’s exciting to finally see this come to fruition with the release of the Q3 43mm. The Leica Q3 43mm offers a “sweet spot” focal length between 35mm and 50mm. This seemingly odd focal length isn’t new for Leica-past cameras like the Minilux, CM, and CL featured a 40mm focal length, which have their own dedicated fan base. While the original 28mm Q lens has its enthusiasts, the 43mm provides a more compressed field of view that some photographers may prefer. Both the Q3 43mm and the Standard Q3 (28mm) share the same internal components, including the 60MP BSI sensor, autofocus system, and OLED viewfinder, but the standout feature of the Q3 43 is its 43mm f2 APO-Summicron ASPH lens, which delivers superior microcontrast and precision thanks to Leica’s advanced optical design. Details At A Glance – The Leica Q3 43mm APO-Summicron 43mm F2 lens contains 4 aspherical elements and a leaf shutter just like its predecessors ISO Range of 50-100k  60mp BSI Sensor with triple resolution technology (18/36/60MP) and 8k vid...

Bulova Begins their 150th Anniversary Celebration with the Premier of the Documentary “America Telling Time” Worn & Wound
Citizen Watch America Sep 26, 2024

Bulova Begins their 150th Anniversary Celebration with the Premier of the Documentary “America Telling Time”

Next year, Bulova turns 150 years old, but you’ll forgive them if they start the celebration a little early. Last week in New York City, the band’s home for its entire history, Bulova hosted the world premiere of America Telling Time, a documentary about an hour in length that charts the course of the brand through 150 years of being, quite literally, an American standard in time telling. Watching the film in a room full of watch collectors, watch media, and Bulova staffers it became clear that Bulova is truly unlike any other watch brand, and not for the usual reasons we typically invoke that possibly overused phrase. Bulova’s history is tied inextricably to American history in a way that no other brand can replicate, which is a simple fact of its founding, longevity, and ability to always be on the cusp of trends in culture and watchmaking.  Before sitting down to watch the film at the premiere, I had an opportunity to speak with Jeffrey Cohen, President of Citizen Watch America, and Patty Schmoyer, Vice President of Marketing at Bulova, about what we could expect later that evening when the documentary would be shown. “You’re going to see how Bulova played a vital role in our society,” Cohen told me. He then went on to list the seemingly endless arenas in which Bulova was a factor in American life. The space program, being a pioneer in radio and television advertising, and promoting equal pay for equal work at a time when a large American company taking a s...

Horology and Hollywood: The No Country for Old Men Timex Camper Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Rolex GMT Master 1675 watches Sep 26, 2024

Horology and Hollywood: The No Country for Old Men Timex Camper Wristwatch

There seems to be a clear correlation between watch enthusiasts and cinephiles. From Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Seiko H558-5009 (mentioned in one of my previous articles) to Marlon Brando’s bezel-less Rolex GMT Master 1675, watches and their film counterparts have been the focus of discussion in the watch collector space for years. While an Arnie will cost you around $500 and 1675s over $10k, pieces of film history can be obtained by hobbyists of all tax brackets. However, even the several hundred-dollar price for a girthy Seiko diver may still be out of the price range for many collectors who find the allure of Hollywood memorabilia sitting in their watch case to be intriguing.  Enter the Timex Camper. In the opening sequence of Ethan and Joel Coen’s 2007 masterpiece film No Country for Old Men, protagonist Llewelyn Moss (played by Josh Brolin) tracks game animals across the West Texas plains. He bends down on one knee, takes his watch out, and holds it to the sun––attempting to use the shadows of the handset on the dial to track his direction. The audience fortunately gets a few frames of the watch on screen. What’s shown is a Timex Camper, dark green, with a matching fabric strap. It’s rather small in the shot, but us collectors will take whatever wristwatch screen time we can get. The Camper’s aesthetics obviously differentiate it from the aforementioned Arnie and 1675, but its most important trait for us is its price. For well under $100––commonly li...

First Look – The New and Colourful Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport in Titanium Monochrome
Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport Sep 26, 2024

First Look – The New and Colourful Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport in Titanium

The La Sportive collection of chronographs, a staple in Louis Erard‘s catalogue for several years, has been rebranded to reflect the brand’s forward-looking vision – now called the 2300 collection. The name also pays homage to the postal code of La-Chaux-de-Fonds, a watchmaking centre near Le Noirmont, where Louis Erard is based. To mark this […]

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Sep 26, 2024

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Southeast Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches is marking its 70th anniversary with a series of limited editions, with the latest being the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, equipped with a hand-wind, seven-day movement. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a case and movement bridges of Damascus steel, a pattern-welded alloy composed of two types of steel that create a distinctive grained surface. Limited to 28 pieces, it follows Sincere’s prior anniversary editions, including the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD. An exotic alloy The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition combines the trademark Franck Muller tonneau-shaped case, an unusual case alloy, and one of the brand’s more interesting movements, a skeleton calibre with a seven-day power reserve. The Vanguard case is an evolution of the classic Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, with modern lines echoed in the movement, which has a geometric and linear bridge layout. The case, crown, buckle, and movement bridges of the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are made of an unusual steel alloy known as Damascus steel, or wootz steel. The material gets its name from the ancient high-quality steel used for bladed weapons over a thousand years ago. The modern-day Damascus steel employed here is created with powder metallurgy, namely mixing various steel powders before ...