Hodinkee
Dispatch: H. Moser & Cie. X Alpine Motorsports At The F1 Spanish Grand Prix
Making sense of Moser's surprising blend of haute horlogerie and ana-digi connected tech.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,783 articles · 171 videos found · page 529 of 1066
Hodinkee
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years
Traditional dive watches have never waned in popularity, despite modern diving computers and even smart watches pushing them into technical obsolescence. The dawn of early divers in the 1950s is defined by two brands and two watches – the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. State of the art at the time and able […]
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces a Pair of Streamliners as Part of their Partnership with Alpine Motorsports, Including an Ana-Digi Smartwatch
Just when you thought watches associated with F1 teams were getting stale and predictable, here comes H. Moser with a release that I definitely did not have on my bingo card. There are actually two releases here, both introduced last week as part of the brand’s partnership with the Alpine Motorsports F1 team. Both part of the Streamliner family, one is a skeletonized chronograph (which is cool, but not exactly the most exotic thing in the indie watch world) and the other is…a smart watch. Yes, a Streamliner smart watch from the brand that started their recent rise to prominence by, basically, trolling the most popular wearable ever created. The loose concept here is that this pair of watches consists of a “Drivers Edition” Streamliner as well as a corresponding “Mechanics Edition.” We’ll start with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition, a “measuring instrument” designed specifically for an F1 team and the highly specialized work they do to support their drivers. The watch does a nice job of evoking what we’ve come to know as the Moser aesthetic, with a blue lacquer dial for the time at 12:00, surrounded by black when the watch is on standby mode (Moser of course loves a deep and dark black). But that black negative space is actually a screen, and when digital functions are activated the watch effectively transforms into something we simply aren’t used to seeing from high end independent brands. The Mechanics Edition is powered by a movement made ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Devil Diver Review
The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...
Monochrome
Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle
Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 now in Red Gold
The Sport Auto, first released in 2022, wasn’t the first attempt of Laurent Ferrier to create an elegant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. This must be credited to the Grand Sport, a large and high-end model with a tourbillon. However, the Sport Auto was even more important, as it entered the coveted category with […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79
Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite modern watchmakers, so when a new LF model comes out, it always piques my attention. This time, I got the chance to go hands-on with the latest creation, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79. And that, my dear Fratelli, is a chance I wouldn’t dream of passing up. […] Visit Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new IWC Pilot Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert
IWC Schaffhausen continues to expand its “Colours of Top Gun” series with the latest Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 TOP GUN Mojave Desert. This new iteration introduces a compact, sand-toned variant to the series, a colour normally found in large watches. Drawing inspiration from the arid terrain surrounding the U.S. Navy’s China Lake testing facility and the […]
Worn & Wound
IWC Debuts the Long Awaited Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert
IWC’s releases this year are proving something that I’ve always felt was true, but lacked hard evidence: if you’re patient, the watch you’ve always wanted will one day appear. Perseverance takes many forms, and there’s no doubt that one of them is telling your IWC sales rep that you’ll actually pass on the Mojave Big Pilot, Perpetual Calendar, and Pilot’s Chronograph, and wait for the simple three hander in a casual, everyday size. Today, IWC announced a watch many in the Worn & Wound office have been attempting to conjure since the very first Mojave watch appeared back in 2019, a limited edition Pilot’s Watch Chronograph measuring in at 44.5mm. The aforementioned perpetual calendar and Big Pilot in the Mojave colorway followed, as did another chronograph in a smaller, 41mm size. But this is the one many enthusiasts, I think, have been waiting for, and it follows a larger trend of predictable (and desirable) iteration within the larger IWC family. What we have here is relatively simple on its face: the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert takes the tan ceramic IWC has been using in the Top Gun line over the last six years and puts in the most straightforward IWC pilot watch concept of them all. While it’s not technically a Mark series watch (IWC draws a distinction between the Mark line and their more experimental, ceramic dominated Top Gun pilot’s watches) the form factor and principle here are both similar. The 41mm case measures a com...
Monochrome
The Evergreens - The History of Urban Jürgensen, The Legendary Danish Watchmaker Set To Return
Looking back at the history of watchmaking, there are some inevitable names to be mentioned: Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Harrison, Thomas Mudge, John Arnold, Antide Janvier, Jean-Marc Vacheron and Christiaan Huygens, just to name a few. Moving up North, in the city of Copenhagen, to be precise, we have to talk about one of the most […]
Worn & Wound
Watch Propaganda I’m Not Falling For
If you’ve opened Instagram or TikTok in the last few weeks, there’s a very good chance you’ve seen the “Propaganda I’m Not Falling For” trend served up to you in one way or another. The format is relatively straightforward, and involves a creator listing the sacred cows in his or her particular area of expertise that they refuse to buy into. The watch community, of course, is filled with conventional wisdom, ideas passed from collector to collector, rarely if ever questioned. As I encountered these social media clips over the last week, I couldn’t help but think of the watch world propaganda, as it were, that we all just seem to take at face value. Here, then, are four principles I think are ripe for questioning. There are a lot more – credit here to Ben’s Watches and Pulse on the Wrist for being first out of the gate among watch industry personalities to participate. Be sure to let us know in the comments what watch related propaganda you refuse to accept. A Vintage Watch Must Be Unpolished and All Original Let’s get the most controversial one out of the way first. When I started collecting watches, it was an era when it was still relatively easy and straightforward to buy a nice, honest vintage watch on eBay for not a lot of money. Times have changed. The best examples, watches that are truly unpolished and all original, are harder and harder to find, and eBay is filled with watches that have been passed around and sold by pro dealers and amat...
Teddy Baldassarre
Top Luxury Watch Brands: 60 To Know In 2026
How well do you know your luxury watch brands? The timepiece industry is populated by many dozens of companies - a handful of them still independent, many others now members of a larger luxury-goods conglomerate - each with its own unique origin story, historical highlights, and technical and aesthetic brand DNA. Here we've gathered what we consider the 60 watch brands that should be on the radar of watch enthusiasts and given you a brief rundown of what makes each one special. In the interest of being informative (and transparent), we've divided them into sections: brands owned by the two major Swiss luxury groups (Swatch and Richemont), brands within the French LVMH Group, Japanese Citizen Group, and the small Swiss concern Sowind; the largest, best-known independent companies, and the leading brands among the rest of the independents. We've even added a little tidbit of trivia for each brand. TOP LUXURY WATCH BRANDS: SWATCH GROUP BLANCPAIN Blancpain was founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, making it one of the oldest watch brands in existence - one of the few, in fact, that can say it’s been making watches longer than the United States has been a country. The maison offers a plethora of small and high complications in its extensive and elegant Villeret collection, named for the Swiss village where it originated before moving to the Vallee de Joux in 1983, including a so-called “complete” calendar, a signature complication but these days Blancpain ...
Worn & Wound
The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise
For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case. This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...
Hodinkee
Dispatch: Omega Celebrates 60 Years Of NASA Qualification
A look at the past, present, and future of spaceflight with the Omega Speedmaster.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Overcoil Hairspring, From Breguet to Phillips
While the invention of the spiral hairspring by Christiaan Huygens in 1675 kickstarted a revolution in terms of portable precision timekeeping, the concept was far from fully developed. It was arguably only with the later invention of the overcoil hairspring that the ideal oscillator in portable watches emerged. For many years horologists - theoreticians and artisans alike - worked to perfect the balance-hairspring assembly to optimise its performance, notably in terms of isochronism. True isochronism became a sort of holy grail for watchmakers all around the world, who all sought to ameliorate the inherent quirks of the sprung oscillator. The recent Breguet Soucription features an overcoil hairspring of non-magnetic Nivachron alloy The need for end curves The quest for isochronism was a true challenge for horologists. Isochronism is the ability of the balance-hairspring assembly the have the same period of oscillation for small and large amplitudes alike. In other words, the balance oscillation takes the same period of time regardless of the degree travelled. This is very important, since a balance usually swings with high amplitude with a fully wound mainspring and then runs at progressively smaller amplitude as the barrel unwinds. As a timepiece is required to keep good time regardless of its winding state, an oscillator whose period is independent from its amplitude is needed. (Another solution to this is to optimise the energy delivery from the mainspring with a...
Fratello
Hands-On: The New Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona With A Green Dial - Don’t Call It The “John Mayer II”
More than a platinum creation with an ice-blue dial, the combination of yellow gold and green is the ultimate expression of Rolex luxury. Luscious and alluring yellow gold dates back to ancient civilizations, and green is the brand’s signature color, often used in a celebratory way, that puts Rolex connoisseurs on high alert. Mix the […] Visit Hands-On: The New Yellow Gold Rolex Daytona With A Green Dial - Don’t Call It The “John Mayer II” to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Phillips NYWA XII
As the Hong Kong auctions have wrapped, we move to the final sales of the spring season in New York City. Phillips will offer a healthy mix of new and old, common and rare, across 144 lots. The sale includes many of the expected top-of-the-line offerings, with the headline lot a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in yellow gold, and staples like a pair of ref. 5004s. But there are plenty of interesting watches to be down catalog too, including some fresh faces and value buys. Highlights include the best of English watchmaking made by Charles Frodsham a century apart, the auction debut of American independent Keaton Myrick, an unusual F.P. Journe Résonance, along with a Cartier pocket watch made by complications specialist THA. We round up these and a few more from The New York Watch Auction: XII, which takes place from June 7-8, 2025. The full catalogue is available on Phillips.com. Lot 11 – A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph “2022 Best of Show, Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este” Since 2012, A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, a classic car shown that takes place in spring on the picturesque shores of Lake Como. Each year, the owner of the event’s best car is presented with a unique Lange watch. While past winners have received a fairly conventional Lange 1 Time Zone, the brand upgraded the prize in recent years to a striking 1815 Chronograph. In 2022, the winner was Andrew Pisker with a Bugatti 57 S from 1937. He received th...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Hölstein Edition 2025
Adding a bit of luminous levity to a black and white design.
Deployant
Independent watchmaking: Start your journey with the best picks within a USD 20k budget
We discuss what is an independent watch brand, and make recommendations with 3 picks each from Robin, Stanley, and Peter to start your journey.
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Racing Meets Watchmaking with the 2025 Formula 1 Team Watches
If you’re like me, passionate about watches and Formula 1, I’m pretty sure you’re eyeballing the wrists of drivers, team principals and mechanics to see what they’re wearing. Some of them have a strong reputation for their wrist game, such as Lewis Hamilton and Toto Wolff. And since there has been an almost complete reshuffle for official […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs
Last year, Citizen debuted a series of Super Titanium chronographs with integrated bracelets. The watches were received well for their looks and affordability. Since then, the brand has formally changed the names of these chronographs to Zenshin Senkei. Four more references now join the collection, but as we’ll see, new colors are only a part […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy New Citizen Zenshin Senkei Chronographs to read the full article.
Time+Tide
17 of the best Japanese watch brands from rugged value to Dufour-praiseworthy wonders
We all know and love Seiko and Casio, but what about lesser-known, but equally as amazing brands from Japan?The post 17 of the best Japanese watch brands from rugged value to Dufour-praiseworthy wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Patek Philippe Ref. 2497, Part 1: Patek's First Serially Produced Center Seconds Perpetual Calendar
In part one, we cover everything there is to know about the ref. 2497, its dials, cases, and general design history.
Fratello
Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial
The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 is a limited edition of just nine watches, and it’s the result of bringing together one Slovak and two Czech watch-loving parties. Young Slovak watch brand Biatec started its operations in 2016. Chronoshop has been in business since 2007, and journalist Jan Lidmaňský has been writing about watches for 20 […] Visit Introducing: The Biatec Majestic Chronoshop 09 With A Color-Changing Embossed Dial to read the full article.
Time+Tide
12 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe
Being able to track multiple time zones at once is both practical and romantic - here are some of the best watches that can.The post 12 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
How Ollech & Wajs Watches Contributed To A 1960s Arctic Diving Expedition
Ollech & Wajs is a brand that is not covered all that often. There is much to like, though, when one starts to investigate the brand’s history as well as its current offerings. Indeed, it is a brand that resonates with me. Something about Ollech & Wajs’s no-nonsense tool-watch designs and rich past makes for […] Visit How Ollech & Wajs Watches Contributed To A 1960s Arctic Diving Expedition to read the full article.
Fratello
Artem Drops Some Fresh Colors For Its Signature Nylon Watch Straps
Artem unveils four new colors for its range of Signature Nylon watch straps. These colors - Burgundy, Sandstone, Atlantic Blue, and Khaki Green - arrive in time for the Northern Hemisphere’s summer season. With a choice of brushed, polished, or black DLC-coated hardware in either 19–20mm or 21–22mm widths, the straps offer a tremendous variety […] Visit Artem Drops Some Fresh Colors For Its Signature Nylon Watch Straps to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Parmigiani Toric Perpetual Calendar
Simplicity and elegance. So much so that it may have flown under your radar.
Fratello
Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening
Breitling and Fratello hosted an event at the brand’s beautiful boutique in The Hague a few weeks ago. During this event, guests could try out the new Breitling Top Time B01 models, including the new Martini Racing edition. To boost the event, Breitling arranged for a Lancia Delta HF in Martini execution to serve as […] Visit Photo Report: Fratello × Breitling Martini Evening to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - Bell & Ross Releases the New BR-03 Diver Lum Outline
Bell & Ross, with its extensive range of highly graphic pilots’ watches inspired by cockpit instruments, consolidated its identity with the BR-01 and BR-03 references (and subsequent derivations). Moving from high-altitude missions to underwater adventures, in 2017, Bell & Ross adapted its archetypal “circle in a square” aesthetic to create the BR-03 Diver, a 300m […]