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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Introducing – The New Black-and-White Rado True Square Open Heart Limited Editions Monochrome
Rado True Square Open Heart Sep 12, 2024

Introducing – The New Black-and-White Rado True Square Open Heart Limited Editions

Rado is renowned for its pioneering use of scratch-resistant materials, starting with its 1962 DiaStar watch with a tungsten carbide case and culminating with its extensive use of high-tech ceramic since 1986. The brand is also synonymous with contemporary design-led watches like the True Square family launched in 2020 with its square high-tech ceramic case […]

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 10, 2024

The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Ceramic and Gold

First launched in 2021, the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph now returns in an appealing combination of materials. The new model shares many similarities with its predecessor, namely the same case design and movement. But it’s now rendered in black ceramic and 18k white gold, matched with pink gold hands. Initial thoughts With the design having been refined over time, it is now clear that the negative reaction to the initial Code 11.59 collection was overdone. Granted, some criticism was justified with the original line-up, particularly for the time-only variants with plain dials (now replaced by guilloche). The most appealing versions of the Code 11.59 are the complications, particularly those with open-worked dials, like the Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The open working of the dial transforms what was a design weakness into strength. Not only does the open dial showcase the mechanics and finishing of the movement, but it also complements the large, contemporary case. The Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph a watch executed excellently with little to criticise – except for the case dimensions, which could be more compact. The Code 11.59 design looks larger than it is, so the case wears larger than it measures. Although the price is only available on request, it is in the region of CHF250,000. It’s a big number but comparable to similar complications from Audemars Piguet’s rivals like Vacheron Constantin. But unlike the competition,...

Introducing – Longines Launches 15 New References in the Master Collection With Engraved Dials Monochrome
Longines Launches 15 New References Sep 9, 2024

Introducing – Longines Launches 15 New References in the Master Collection With Engraved Dials

Possibly the most classic and timeless range of Longines, the Master Collection has long been slightly overlooked since its inception in 2005, maybe due to a rather shy design. Yet, in 2022 to mark the brand’s 190th anniversary, Longines gave this collection a highly appealing twist, with grained dials and engraved Breguet-like numerals, elevating this […]

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition Worn & Wound
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 6, 2024

Inside the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

Moving from meeting to meeting at Geneva Watch Days, it’s easy to get lost in the opulent, luxurious novelties. But when you meet with Armin Strom, you’re brought back to a kind of pure watch nerdery that transcends the luxurious surroundings of shows like this. Armin Strom, even while producing watches that I think are objectively great looking, is all about mechanical innovation. There isn’t a watch in their collection that doesn’t have a novel mechanical trick up its sleeve. The Gravity Equal Force that Zach looked at recently is a great example. It has all the aesthetic and design trappings of what we think of as today’s modern high end indie watchmaking, but the real appeal lies in the watchmaking itself. It’s an important distinction that most enthusiasts understand intrinsically – some watches and brands just have a laser focus on engineering, and that’s sort of what sets Armin Strom apart.  The brand’s big Geneva Watch Days release is, simply put, a showstopper, and perhaps the most fascinating watch of the week. It’s certainly a significant horological accomplishment. The Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition takes Armin Strom’s already unique take on the resonance concept and shrinks it down to an almost impossible to believe size in a watch that takes a completely novel approach to timekeeping and provides a great deal of practical functionality to make it downright approachable. It also just happens to be a stunning piece of horological a...

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections Worn & Wound
Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement which Sep 5, 2024

Roue Adds Two New References to the TPS Collections

Since 2019, watchmakers Roue have been updating their TPS model in new colors, bringing new life to a vintage-inspired design. In the past, we have covered their releases of Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, and Seven – so you can make a pretty educated guess of what’s been released this week.  Like previous iterations of their TPS collection, the Eight and Nine are inspired by the iconic Porsche 910, winner of the Nürburgring 1000-kilometer race in 1967 (a detail which can be seen on the embossed caseback of this line). The racing inspiration can be felt throughout this watch, most especially in the colorways for both new references. In Eight, you will find a gray dial with orange and yellow accents. For Nine, the tonal language is more classic, utilizing a blue dial with red and white accents. Both watches come with complementary straps which are at once sporty and a bit elegant – much like the TPS line itself. One can choose either a perforated leather Driver strap, or a sportier silicone option.  Features of this watch include a chronograph with both a tachymeter and pulsometer scale. Given the limited real estate on this 40mm case, one would think these functions might be a little squeezed into the frame, so to speak. But Roue has proven time and again that the TPS model is a great example of a perfectly proportioned dial.  The Roue TPS Eight and Nine, like previous iterations, run on a Seiko VK63 Meca-Quartz movement, which combines the accuracy of quartz techno...

First Look – The Bold, Racing-Oriented New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Collection Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Sep 5, 2024

First Look – The Bold, Racing-Oriented New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport Collection

This year, TAG Heuer is expanding its lineup by introducing a new collection, the Carrera Extreme Sport series with 6 different models, blending the brand’s legendary racing heritage with advanced materials and innovative design. Earlier this year, the brand unveiled the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 in time for the 24h of Le Mans, paying […]

Introducing – The New “Silver Screen” Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph Monochrome
Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph Unveiled Sep 4, 2024

Introducing – The New “Silver Screen” Glashutte Original SeaQ Chronograph

Unveiled in 2019, the SeaQ Collection by Glashutte Original, part of a range named Spezialist, took us by surprise for many reasons. First, it marked the comeback of GO into the sports watch category, something the brand overlooked for some years. Second, its overall design was inspired by a vintage dive watch from the GUB […]

First Look – The New & Elegant Black-Gold Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding Sep 3, 2024

First Look – The New & Elegant Black-Gold Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Self-Winding

To attract and cultivate a new generation of watch enthusiasts who are still young but may develop a passion for collecting fine mechanical timepieces, Vacheron Constantin launched a new entry-level collection in 2018. Inspired by the design of the Reference 6073 introduced by the brand in 1956, the collection was aptly named Fiftysix, capturing the […]

Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow Fratello
Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow

Tool watches are not only popular but also often uncomplicated and dull from a design point of view. How refreshing it is to see and wear the Frog300 from Oceanix (or OX for short). It has a non-conventional case shape, modern-styled bold hands and indexes, and refreshing colors. Furthermore, it contains an innovative safety feature, […] Visit Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow to read the full article.

Introducing – The New and Upgraded Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Monochrome
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Founded Sep 3, 2024

Introducing – The New and Upgraded Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière

Founded in 2004, Christopher Ward is the UK’s leading mechanical watchmaker, combining English design with Swiss movements. To avoid the markups of premium Swiss watches, Christopher Ward shuns the usual trappings of marketing, celebrity endorsements and third-party retailers. One of the first fully online watch brands, CW’s watches offer great value for the money. The […]

The Return Of The 45GS With The New Grand Seiko SLGW004 And SLGW005 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW004 Sep 3, 2024

The Return Of The 45GS With The New Grand Seiko SLGW004 And SLGW005

While the 44GS might be Grand Seiko’s most famous model, another impressive watch came out just one year later. Aptly named the 45GS, this was a high-beat hand-wound watch in a similar design. Now Grand Seiko is reviving that model with the new SLGW004 and SLGW005. Grand Seiko opted to remain faithful to the original, […] Visit The Return Of The 45GS With The New Grand Seiko SLGW004 And SLGW005 to read the full article.

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Atera Valley SLGA025 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Atera Valley Sep 2, 2024

First Look – The New Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Atera Valley SLGA025

A contemporary yet gentle evolution of the original “Grammar of Design” established with the 1967 44GS, the Evolution 9 collection is the vision of the future for Grand Seiko. More modern, more ergonomic, presented in a sporty-chic attire and mostly equipped with new generations of the emblematic calibres 9R and 9S, this collection has already […]

Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold Fratello
Daniel Roth Aug 31, 2024

Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

I was surprised and intrigued when word got out last year that Daniel Roth would make a comeback. As a fan of Roth’s watches, I was eager to find out whether the LVMH designers would honor his famous double-ellipse case design in style. When the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription came out in March of 2023, […] Visit Introducing: The Stunning Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold to read the full article.

First Look – The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916 Monochrome
Gerald Charles Aug 30, 2024

First Look – The new Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30th Anniversario 916

Gerald Charles, a brand founded by the legendary watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000, has made a convincing comeback under Federico Ziviani’s leadership. The revival began in 2020 with the reintroduction of a distinctive 2006 Genta design, the unique Maestro Anniversary case, paired with a moulded rubber strap. Several iterations of the Maestro have been […]

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue SJX Watches
Breitling s B01 but upgraded Aug 30, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono Blue

Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

The Latest From Massena LAB is a Collaboration with an Entirely New Brand: Albishorn

Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky And Flying Diamonds Fratello
Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky Aug 29, 2024

Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky And Flying Diamonds

Sometimes a watch release catches us by surprise. Other times, it triggers a response like “Didn’t that already exist?” To call it predictable would sound overly negative, but sometimes a release is just so perfectly on-brand and sensible that it doesn’t feel new, even if it is. This is one such release. Czapek marries its […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky And Flying Diamonds to read the full article.

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Aug 28, 2024

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome

Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]