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Watch Of The Week: All Roads Lead To Tuna
How I settled on a chonky, off-beat Seiko dive watch for my daily wearer.
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SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Seven Days of Cartier on Loupe This
Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...
SJX Watches
Explained: Bulgari Debuts the Thinnest Mechanical Watch
After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020. But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished? Initial thoughts Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time. For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines. And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space. Keeping current But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s ...
Time+Tide
LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm
With a marketplace that thrives on the emotional connection between consumer and brand heritage, anniversary milestones have become a prominent moment for manufacturers to celebrate their creations. Typically we see a storied reference executed in limited numbers, with a new special dial, and, perhaps, a precious case metal, with a commemorative caseback or winding rotor. … ContinuedThe post LIVE PICS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the new thinnest mechanical watch in the world at 1.8mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...
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ISLANDER Watches - The Roslyn a Dressy Capable Automatic Dive Watch - Affordable Dress Diver
Hodinkee
Watch Of The Week: The Tourbillon That Proves Ralph Lauren Is An Underappreciated Watch Designer
I've collected all the big brands. And I'm here to tell you that this watch is a treasure, combining timeless style, automotive passion, and horological finesse.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie watch
There’s no shortage of watches that divide opinion and create controversy, but such polarising views are by no means exclusive to the watch world. Polish video-game developers CD Projekt Red became somewhat infamous when their blockbuster RPG shooter Cyberpunk 2077 was delayed three times over a year, all in the spirit of making sure it … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne
I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Finally Debuts an Interesting Watch
After several years of drift – and a low-priced, Kickstarter-type watch – Baume & Mercier has finally returned with something surprisingly interesting. Based on the brand’s trademark oblong watch, the Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” is based on reproduces a work by the titular French artist on its dial in textured, three-dimensional relief. With the dial pattern apparent only up close and the case entirely in matte black, the aesthetic is strikingly low key. Like Mr Soulages’ best known works, the dial relies on texture, direction, and the absence of colour, although concessions are made for branding and time telling. Initial thoughts Though some of its ladies’ watches do well in certain markets, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) has had a difficult recent history. While cycling through several chief executives, the brand also launched a great variety of products over the period, but none of them really caught on. But now it has created something unexpected. The concept is straightforward – a dial that recreates a work of art – but it still manages to be original and unusual. Despite its simplicity, the watch manages to capture the artist’s spirit on a tiny canvas. The monochrome finish and emphasis on texture is exactly what Mr Soulages himself is famous for. The retail price of a bit under US$6,000 is pretty steep for a time-only watch powered by a stock ETA 2892, but several factors count in its favour. One is the intrinsic appeal of the watch, and another...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1
A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...
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The Most INSANE Watch Dial You’ve Ever Seen
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm
A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...
Time+Tide
OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’
Editor’s note: Over the last few weeks, we’ve delved into the Top 30 watch reviews of 2021 on the Time+Tide website, crunching the numbers to compare the traffic on the hundreds of watches we explored. So which watch took out the top spot? Something high-end like the meteorite-dial Rolex Daytona or the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American … ContinuedThe post OUR TOP WATCH REVIEW OF 2021: The Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A ‘CasiOak’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 19, it’s the Bremont Broadsword Jet… While there are … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 26, it’s the Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 27, it’s the Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grail Watch - The IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Moon phase in Titanium - Ebay Issues...
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team boldly endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 28, it’s the innovative spirit of the … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
From G-Shock to Rolex: the Time+Tide team reveals the watch they wore the most in 2021
One of the greatest horological tragedies is a beautiful watch that languishes unworn in a safety deposit box for years on end. That’s because watches are made to be worn, loved and even (whisper it quietly) used to tell the time. That’s why today we wanted to celebrate the everyday heroes, those trusty timepieces that … ContinuedThe post From G-Shock to Rolex: the Time+Tide team reveals the watch they wore the most in 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by web traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 29, it’s the Seiko SPB217J. It’s always hard to … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 30, it’s the Norqain Neverest Night Sight… In my … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/habring2-erwin-star-sjx-loupe-this-1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Habring2 Erwin “Star” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]
An online-only watch auctioneer, Loupe This is less than a year old but has notched up several high-profile results, including an F.P. Journe Resonance Ruthenium for US$352,000 as well as a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive green dial for US$369,000 with all proceeds going to charity. And it so happens that one of our very own SJX editions is going under the hammer on Loupe This. Our first collaborative edition, the Habring2 Erwin “Star” was a limited edition of 50, and one of the 50 is now being offered on Loupe This – with a modest estimate and no reserve. [Update December 24, 2021: The Erwin “Star” sold for US$15,400 including fees on Loupe This.] For a quick recap: we launched the Erwin “Star” in August 2021 as the first of our 10th anniversary editions. We are proud of the Erwin “Star”. It’s unusual, high quality, and affordable, which probably explains why it sold out almost instantly. Though it’s a simple, time-only watch, it was made a little bit more special and a little bit different – the standard Erwin already features a jumping seconds, while the dial on our edition is unique to it. Inspired by “star” dial wristwatches of the 1950s, the dial was tweaked to look more modern and distinct. That was done by changing the proportions and using a vivid blue for the dial that varies with the light. Notably, this is the first Habring2 wristwatch with applied markers. Each of the star-shaped hour markers are stamped, cut with...
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Fratello Talks: What's The Deal With Watch Prices?
Revolution
Introducing the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire
IWC releases two Spitfire editions of its Big Pilot’s Watch 43, in titanium and bronze respectively with titanium casebacks, wearing a Type B dial.
Time+Tide
Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson
If you’ve been collecting watches for any meaningful length of time, you’ve probably got the storage of said timepieces sorted out. But let me ask you this: do you actually display your watches? No doubt a great deal of time, effort and thought has gone into curating your collection. It should be a reflection of … ContinuedThe post Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OPINION: The second-hand watch boom and the elephant in the room
A watch is a curiously intimate possession. It’s worn on a person’s skin right next to their beating pulse as they engage in all the filth and fury of daily life. Thankfully, this close proximity (and occasional wrist cheese) turns out to be no barrier to the rocketing appeal of second-hand watches. The Deloitte Swiss … ContinuedThe post OPINION: The second-hand watch boom and the elephant in the room appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six recommendations for an everyday beater watch
Throwback Sundays return with six recommendations for a daily beater watch, to be worn in any situation, in any environment - rugged or otherwise.
Time+Tide
Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction
You may have heard a lot about Loupe This these past few weeks. The online auction platform, founded by Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, recently hosted the charitable Pink Dial Project Auction, which raised $526,803 USD for the fight against breast cancer. They also auctioned off a generously donated Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/014, which secured … ContinuedThe post Loupe This to present rare Grand Seiko VFA 6186-8000-G for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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