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The Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux,” and, Just for Fun, Some of Our Favorites from the Wristmons Collection Worn & Wound
Konstantin Chaykin Jul 30, 2024

The Konstantin Chaykin Joker “Fiat Lux,” and, Just for Fun, Some of Our Favorites from the Wristmons Collection

When you first see one of Konstantin Chaykin’s “Wristmons” pieces, it’s hard not to think it’s an elaborate prank. The imaginative and mechanically complex character watches do not have the aesthetic trappings of the serious horology that is at work under (and above) the hood. They look like children’s toys, with familiar “faces” often borrowed from popular culture or our shared iconography. A truism in the watch world is that if you see someone wearing a Joker or any other Wristmons piece out in the wild, go talk to them. The conversation is certain to be more interesting than with the guy wearing the vintage Sub.  The latest entry in the Wristmons lineup is the Joker “Fiat Lux,” a limited run of just 38 pieces made for the Chinese market. This one is only barely recognizable as a Joker, though, as the dial has been heavily skeletonized, allowing the wearer to see the mechanism that allows for the watch’s unique display. The idea of “skeletonizing” a dial that depicts a face has a certain meta quality to it, and is probably worthy of an analysis all on its own, especially once you realize that the eyes in this edition have been hollowed out. For now, though, we can simply admire the Joker layout as if it’s been given an x-ray.  The skeletonization itself has been well executed and draws the eye across the dial in such a way that legibility isn’t really a problem, and you kind of naturally admire the craft inherent in the dial work. The cent...

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2024

Horage and the Ingenious New Revolution 3 MicroReg

Okay, I admit it. I don’t really care about my watches’ accuracy. Don’t get me wrong, I want my watches to be relatively accurate - and I certainly want them to be in spec - but I want the watchmakers to care about that so I don’t have to. At the end of the day, I just can’t bring myself to care all that much about a couple of seconds over the course of a day. After all, what’s 10 or 15 seconds held up against 86,400? The world doesn’t really operate on that sort of accuracy, and my day-to-day writing about watches certainly doesn’t demand it. That said, while I may not care all that much about accuracy in the abstract, I love it when brands pursue accuracy. I’m a sucker for a clever escapement, a new technique, or a wild swing, and beyond all that, I love the creativity that the pursuit of accuracy tends to elicit. So when Horage announced the Revolution 3 Microreg last week, it certainly caught my eye. The standout feature of the Horage Revolution 3 Microreg, which was made using technology developed by Swiss engineering firm Miniswys, is the ability to regulate the watch at home using a miniature electric motor connected to the escapement’s regulator and controlled by an external dock which allows adjustment in increments as low as 0.1 seconds. Pair this with what is already a COSC-certified movement and what you get is the potential for a remarkably accurate watch that bridges the gap between, as Horage puts it, regulation and reality. One of t...

Heating Up the Windy City with Watches: Recapping the 2024 Windup Watch Fair Chicago Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Jul 29, 2024

Heating Up the Windy City with Watches: Recapping the 2024 Windup Watch Fair Chicago

It may be hard to believe, but it’s already been two weeks since the sun set on Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. What’s not hard to believe is that, over three days in the Windy City, summer’s hottest watch fair hosted more visitors than ever before. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was no wonder the crowds were willing to brave a heat wave to experience what was unquestionably a very special show. Above all else, we want to thank everyone who made their way to Venue West for what was a very fun weekend, whether you walked, took the train, drove, or even flew to Chicago, it was a pleasure to have you all-Windup wouldn’t be what it is without the enthusiasts of all stripes who come out to enjoy the show. To those who weren’t able to make it to Chicago this summer, we’re certainly sorry to have missed you, and we hope this recap (and some of our others!) can give you a taste of what the weekend was about and inspire you to attend the next Windup Watch Fair. In the meantime, here’s a video recap to give you a sense of what to expect! An incredible group of brands anchored the energetic Fair; Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, and Oris-all of whom helped set the mood for a remarkable show and who we were thrilled to see return as lead sponsors. There is no doubt that their presence continues to help Windup level up, and we are incredibly grateful for their continued support. Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Windup couldn’t exist wit...

Nivada Reintroduces the Chronosport, One of the Brand’s Rarest Historical References Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen rose from Jul 29, 2024

Nivada Reintroduces the Chronosport, One of the Brand’s Rarest Historical References

Four years ago, like a phoenix, Nivada Grenchen rose from the ashes to reintroduce two of its most famous watches: the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic. Shortly after, the Depthmaster and the F77 re-emerged, the latter joining the integrated bracelet sports watch craze that has gripped the industry over the last decade. In 2023, in collaboration with Fratello, they launched their Racing Chronograph, a 38mm tonneau-shaped, manually wound watch deeply inspired by the automotive world, mixing many features and design cues from Nivada models from its back catalog. And now, for 2024, Nivada Grenchen is re-introducing the Chronosport, one of their rarest historical pieces. Only ten original Nivada Grenchen Chronosport watches from the 1970s were ever produced, making this model quite sought after by collectors. That is precisely why they have decided to reintroduce it, allowing more enthusiasts to own one. This new model utilizes the same 38mm stainless steel case as the Racing Chronograph. However, the similarities end there. Instead of an outer tachymeter scale printed on the bezel, it is replaced by a unidirectional diver’s bezel. The tachymeter scale is printed on the outer edge of the dial under the double-domed sapphire crystal. The Chronosport’s dial was designed by Jean Singer, who was responsible for the dials on the Omega Speedmaster racing and the Heuer Skipper. Both watches are famous for their good looks and functionality. Mr. Singer knows a thin...

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Jul 29, 2024

Introducing – The new Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO is all about Underwater Readability

Forget about thinness and vintage designs. Today’s watch is aggressively cool, impressively technical and not meant to slip under a cuff. It’s a proper dive instrument with a bold design that’s here to make an impressive. And it did so, not only underwater but also on the silver screen, as the Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO appeared […]

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Jul 29, 2024

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport On Tour In NZ

It’s the ultimate question: Which watch should I take with me when traveling? To see how the Zenith Chronomaster Sport held up, we took it to New Zealand on an adventure to answer this question! One of the things that goes through my mind when looking at a potential watch purchase is, is it good for travel? Now I’m not talking about watches with GMT functions or watches that are specifically designed to track multiple time zones like a Worldtimer etc. These are great, but not essential. I’ve traveled lots without a specific watch like a GMT. What I’m more interested in is this: Is the watch versatile enough to wear in different climates with different clothing? Can I wear it day and night should I take it as my only piece? Will I enjoy wearing it out and about, exploring new places and seeing new sights, and the last one that goes through my mind (a side effect of doing what I do) how will this piece photograph and will it look good on Instagram? Ok, the last one is a little more specific to me, but you get my gist! Now I’m a bit of a sucker for a green dial. I use to gravitate towards blue, but these days, I’m liking watches with more colour, or something that isn’t your standard blue or black. Don’t get me wrong, both of these colours are great, but if you have a few watches that are blue or black, then you kind of want to venture out of this box a little. With this in mind, I’ve managed to get my hands on the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green that was re...

In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Jul 29, 2024

In-Depth: The Ingenuity of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

At Watches & Wonders 2024, Rolex refreshed the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller collection with two new models in 18k gold matched with a Jubilee bracelet, giving a new face to its most complicated watch. The Sky-Dweller was the brand’s most complex wristwatch at introduction in 2012 and remains so a dozen years later. Despite its technical sophistication, the Sky-Dweller is very much a Rolex, incorporating innovations geared towards practicality and functionality. Combining the Saros annual calendar with a second time zone in 24-hour format, the cal. 9002 of the Sky-Dweller boasts several patents, marking out the Sky-Dweller as one of the most innovative Rolex watches of the 21st century. Rolex’s take on the annual calendar in particular is perhaps the most unique in contemporary watchmaking. It relies on clever mathematics and gear mechanics, while doing away with traditional levers or cams, in order to maximise reliability and useability. The second-generation Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller movement, the cal. 9002 that succeeded the cal. 9001 Notably, Rolex managed to incorporate all of the complications of the Sky-Dweller into a design that preserves the classic Oyster silhouette thanks to the innovative Ring Command system. The case has no pushers or buttons, but instead relies on the bezel as a clever function selector mechanism that transforms the signature fluted bezel into a functional device while eliminating the need for an additional crown or pushers. The Oyster ...

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…) Worn & Wound
Sinn U50 HYDRO I had Jul 26, 2024

Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…)

Well, we’re a little more than halfway through 2024, so we thought it would be a good time to ask our contributors about their favorite watches of the year to this point. It’s been, to put it mildly, a strange year. Coming off 2023, a watch release year that saw an almost never ending string of hits, 2024 seems a bit more sedate. But the highs, as they say, have been high, and there are specific sectors of the watch world that seem to be thriving with creativity and pushing serious boundaries.  The selections here from our staff and contributors run the gamut, as always, from large brands to small, affordable to luxury. We’d love to hear from you: let us know what your favorite releases of 2024 are in the comments below.  Zach Weiss – Sinn U50 HYDRO I had a bit of a hard time picking a watch for the topic, and to be honest, it’s because I haven’t been overly blown away by anything yet this year. Not that they’ve been bad; there just hasn’t been much that has really tempted me personally. That’s probably a good thing, but, as I pondered releases, one watch eventually stood out: the Sinn U50 Hydro. The Sinn U50 line was already a great success for the brand, bringing their distinctly modern, tool watch language to a manageably-sized dive watch. But, this year when they added their HYDRO technology to the package, it made it a watch that truly could only be a Sinn, and likely appreciated by only devoted Sinn enthusiasts. For those unaware, Sinn’s HYDRO w...

Retrospective – What are The World’s Thinnest Watches Per Category? Monochrome
Jul 26, 2024

Retrospective – What are The World’s Thinnest Watches Per Category?

Ultra-thin watchmaking is a fascinating topic, one of our favourite areas of expertise here, at MONOCHROME. Ultra-thin watchmaking is horology at its purest, a no-compromise search for the slenderest movement that has to be considered a true complication. While high-watchmaking often seeks to bring as many complications as possible in a single movement, ultra-thinness is […]

Annual Calendar Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 26, 2024

Annual Calendar Watches Guide

Annual calendar watches have been on the scene for a while now, though they remain a somewhat niche area of horological interest - not as revered as lofty complications like the perpetual calendar and minute repeater but also not as obsessed over as more down-to-earth mechanisms like chronographs and GMTs. And yet, the annual calendar offers not only one of the most practical functions for an everyday wearer, but has also proven to be a canvas for some truly engaging designs. As per its name, an annual calendar displays the day, date, and month and need only be manually adjusted by its wearer once per year, at the end of February. Patek Philippe's Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar introduced in 2023 Most of the wristwatch complications we’re familiar with are relatively ancient in origin, and almost all of them old enough to have debuted in pocketwatches rather than wristwatches. The first wristwatch chronograph, made by Longines, appeared in 1913; the first minute repeater for the wrist goes all the way back to 1892, invented by Louis Brandt, founder of Omega; and the first wrist-borne perpetual calendar made its debut in 1925, engineered by none other than Patek Philippe, which had actually invented the compact-sized movement for it as early as 1889, using it at the time in a ladies’ pendant watch. The annual calendar, by contrast, even though it might seem to today’s enthusiasts to be a fixture among luxury watch complications, is much younger, tracing its origin st...

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger Worn & Wound
Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions Jul 25, 2024

Laco Introduces Green Dialed Versions of their Classic Flieger

Lacher & Co. (Laco) is widely considered one of the pioneers of the German pilot watch genre. They have been crafting Flieger style timepieces in Pforzheim since 1925 and have truly mastered the art. They are experts at blending almost a century’s worth of expertise with innovative new ideas and technology. Traditional Flieger watches are recognized for their large, high-contrast black dials featuring stark white hands, numerals, and indices. In an effort to add charm and flair to the traditional, Laco is introducing new variations of their classic Augsburg and Aachen watches with fresh green dials. The difference between those two models lies in their dial configurations. The Augsburg follows the typical Type A dial layout, with a standard minute track surrounding the outer edge of the dial, and features beautiful, oversized hands. Alternatively, the Aachen has a Type B dial layout known as B-Uhr, or Beobachtungsuhren, which translates to observation watch. The latter’s perimeter displays the minutes, while a smaller track closer to the center shows the hours. As a result, the hands are quite different. The sword-shaped minute hand has most of its weight in the second half of its length, and the hour hand is shortened so that its tip stays within the inner circle. With their polished steel-framed hands and new green dials, they most certainly feel more contemporary and fashionable. Powering these pilot watches is the Laco 2S, which is based on the Miyota 82S0 caliber....

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer Monochrome
Casio ns but Jul 25, 2024

Introducing – Hajime Asaoka Revives Extinct Japanese Brand Takano and Presents the Chateau Nouvelle Chronometer

We’ve said it on multiple occasions but the world of watches isn’t limited to Switzerland, or to an extent, to Europe. There are fascinating watchmakers all over the globe, and Japan is one of the most prolific countries when it comes to independent watchmaking. One of them is Hajime Asaoka, not only the man behind […]

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Jul 25, 2024

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair

If you’ve never had the pleasure of attending a Windup Watch Fair in person, it’s hard to express the energy in the room or the unavoidable concentration of enthusiasm that greets you when you step through the doors. From the moment the show opens on Friday to the minute it closes on Sunday, every Windup is a marathon of excited conversation, new friends, and constant discovery - all bound by a vague sense of risk, a sense that (if you should stop and stare for a little too long) you may be walking out of Windup with something new tucked away in your bag and a slightly lighter wallet. Of course, for all their similarities, no two Windups are the same. The character of each host city plays a huge part in this - it’s hard to quantify the difference between a bay-side view in San Francisco in May and a downtown October day in New York City - but throw in different brands, different people, different venues, and (possibly most importantly) different watches and you’ll find that every Windup comes with the distinct chance to surprise. So, to that end, with a few days between me and the end of Windup Chicago 2024, I thought I would take a moment to fill you in on some of the watches and moments that surprised me at this summer’s hottest watch fair. NATO’s Don’t Need Holes It seems like a fitting place to start this endeavor would be with the only booth at Windup Chicago that got me to pull out my wallet not once, but twice. Like so many of us, I go absolutely...

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jul 25, 2024

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1

Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...

First Look – Montblanc’s Deep Diver, The Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 Monochrome
Montblanc s Deep Diver Jul 25, 2024

First Look – Montblanc’s Deep Diver, The Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810

A deep dive watch from a brand with a name referring to Europe’s highest mountain, specialized in making high-end fountain pens…? Surprising, to say the least. Surely, there’s more to Montblanc than what I just described. Indeed, the brand has long been active in watchmaking, producing appealing dress watches and superb chronographs equipped with Minerva […]

Unimatic Introduces a Collection of Military Spec Tool Watches Worn & Wound
Unimatic Jul 24, 2024

Unimatic Introduces a Collection of Military Spec Tool Watches

Unimatic, the Italian watch brand known for bringing a contemporary design language to a variety of classic sports watch tropes, has just unveiled their new permanent collection, the Toolwatch Series. The new watches, at a glance, might not look all the different from previous Unimatic releases. This is not a rethinking of the brand’s aesthetic, and they are not trying anything completely revolutionary here. But the Toolwatch Series feels like a logical extension of what Unimatic has been up to since their founding all the way back in 2015, and could provide a new foothold for curious collectors to enter into the brand’s ecosystem.  Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Unimatic’s new watches are tailored to enthusiasts with “active, adventurous, lifestyles” who need their watch to keep up with the unusual demands of their lives. This is something we brands tell us all the time, and honestly I’ve gotten to the point where I tend to just glaze over any mention of “adventure” in a press release for a new watch. But it appears that Unimatic is putting their proverbial money where their watch is. Each watch in the Toolwatch Series meets what’s known as the MIL-STD-810 standard, which is a benchmark set by the United States military to guarantee the durability of items like watches that servicemembers rely on.  What does that mean for the Toolwatch Series? It means that each watch goes through a battery of tests to ensure its robustness. Specifically, U...