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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro” Worn & Wound
Seiko Giugiaro Apr 28, 2025

The Timex Triprix: Showing Appreciation for the Forgotten “Poor Man’s Giugiaro”

If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards.  Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Fratello
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 25, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai moves quickly! After a busy Watches and Wonders 2025, there’s already another new release. The Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica was announced with the brand’s official timekeeping role at the Salone del Mobile. This is Milan’s Design Week, and the event is the world’s largest furniture show. Furniture may sound like a funny connection […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 to read the full article.

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Turns Apr 25, 2025

Breguet Turns to Tradition with the Classique Souscription

The opening salvo in Breguet’s 250th anniversary has just been revealed: the Classique Souscription 2025BH. Although typically Breguet in style, the watch is a novel combination of elements, at least by the conventions of Breguet, a traditionally staid brand. Presented in a case of the new design made of a gold alloy of a new formula, it’s a wristwatch inspired by the one-handed souscription pocket watches of the 18th and 19th centuries. The fired enamel dial replicates that of the pocket watch, while inside is the VS00, a calibre that is descended from the movement of the La Tradition. Initial thoughts As storied a brand as it is, Breguet certainly has a lot to live up to for its 250th anniversary. I expect more to come from Breguet in the coming months, but the Classique Souscription is a strong start, though a little pricey. It’s essentially an elaborately executed time-only watch, precisely the sort of watch that is popular now when made by independent watchmakers, but big brands face more scepticism with such timepieces. The VS00 Though it might seem typical Breguet on its face, the Classique Souscription is an unusual proposition; it’s inspired by various elements from across Breguet’s history, some several centuries apart. The dial and movement are inspired by a 19th century pocket watch, while the case comes much later. But everything works well and the whole manages to look like a Breguet. Traditionalists might mourn the departure from familiar elements ...

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators Worn & Wound
Studio Underd0g Introduces Apr 24, 2025

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Av0cado and Guacam0le Chronographs, a Clever Response to their Imitators

In our current age of disingenuous AI and copyright controversies, sometimes the best way to beat a design thief is to…imitate them right back? In perhaps the cheekiest move we’ve ever seen a watchmaker execute in response to an influx of copycat designs from no-name brands, Studio Underd0g has done just that. Instead of taking the legal route-an endeavour that is time-consuming, costly, and largely pointless in today’s world of mass-production and dropshipping-the British watchmaker has employed a tactful play of horological judo, and  produced two new models inspired wholeheartedly by the very designs stolen from them. Enter the Av0cado and Guacam0le, just as colorful, cheerful, and charismatic as the rest of their lineup, with an extra dollop of good humor on the side.  Take one look at the knockoffs from a myriad of random “brands” and you’ll see what Studio Underd0g is talking about. The color schemes, design cues, and even text details are shamelessly ripped straight from the authentic watchmaker’s catalog. This is, of course, the sharp side of the double-edged sword for a brand with a visual style as instantly recognizable as Studio Underd0g’s, even given their relative youth as a company; when you create a style that resonates with so many people, you’re bound to have imitators.  They haven’t cut any corners with the Av0cado and Guacam0le, though, despite the comedic backstory. Both are in direct response to a company called Proxima’s k...

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition Fratello
Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Apr 23, 2025

Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition

Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanics. Put simply, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 Loco proves that higher-end watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price point. I spent a week with the new C12 Loco in its striking […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition to read the full article.

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter” Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary Apr 23, 2025

Furlan Marri Celebrates their Fourth Anniversary with the New “Red Hunter”

It feels like Furlan Marri has been around longer than four years, doesn’t it? Their trajectory from “Kickstarter brand” to one of the most consistently interesting small indies/micros/whatever has been fascinating to watch simply because it doesn’t correlate at all with the typical growth of a watch brand, regardless of the size. They are doing interesting things that are purely design driven (like the Disco Volante I reviewed last year) but are also pushing the envelope when it comes to mechanical watchmaking. They have fully transcended, in my opinion, all of the baggage that comes with launching on Kickstarter, to the point that we don’t even think about how it all started unless we’re intentionally meant to look back, which is part and parcel with an anniversary watch release like this one.  To celebrate four years, Furlan Marri has unveiled the Red Hunter, a watch meant to pay tribute to classic hunter-case pocket watches and officer-style wrist watches. This is the brand’s first watch to measure 36mm in diameter, which I guess is a little surprising considering the vintage inspiration that runs through all of Furlan Marri’s designs, and the conventional wisdom that 36mm is perhaps the most classic, universal watch diameter. In any event, the size makes a lot of sense here when taken together with all the other little vintage inspired details. Let’s start with the dial, which is a new design from Furlan Marri. It’s a black lacquer with a subtle s...

Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future Fratello
Greubel Forsey CEO Michel Nydegger Apr 22, 2025

Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future

Visiting Greubel Forsey is unlike stepping into most watch ateliers. Tucked away in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand has always carried an aura of mystery, spoken about with reverence among collectors but less visible in mainstream luxury circles. That is partly by design. When I sat down with Michel Nyddegger, the brand’s recently appointed CEO, it […] Visit Inside Greubel Forsey: CEO Michel Nydegger On Strategy, Craftsmanship, And The Future to read the full article.

Could The 1990s Inspire The Next Cycle Of Watch Fashion? Fratello
Apr 20, 2025

Could The 1990s Inspire The Next Cycle Of Watch Fashion?

The 1990s were a period of significant change in the watch industry. Those years were very much a time of realignment and ongoing recovery after the crippling Quartz Crisis two decades earlier. Today, we’re looking at 1990s watches and design principles from that era to consider whether they could inspire the next trends in the […] Visit Could The 1990s Inspire The Next Cycle Of Watch Fashion? to read the full article.

Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook Worn & Wound
Apr 18, 2025

Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook

Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. Spring in the City. Bursting through the gloomy greys and harsh weather of the winter, we finally get greens and all the pastel colors that announce warmth is just around the corner. That feeling, that vibe, doesn’t only extend to our clothing but also touches the accessories, home decor and everyday carry that play a supporting role in our lives. Find the perfect pieces to match this seasonal transition below. The post Shop The Windup Watch Shop Spring Lookbook appeared first on Worn & Wound.

First Look - The Monochrome Spirit of the New Ming 37.02 Ghost Monochrome
Ming 37.02 Ghost Renowned Apr 18, 2025

First Look - The Monochrome Spirit of the New Ming 37.02 Ghost

Renowned for its contemporary and minimalist designs, Ming, the indie watch brand founded by Malaysian photographer Ming Thein in 2017, has gone from strength to strength. Design is king at Ming, and a common design thread runs through all the collections, ranging from time-only to sophisticated chronographs and from world timers to dive watches. Following […]

Introducing - The New Salmon Version of the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase Monochrome
Apr 18, 2025

Introducing - The New Salmon Version of the Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase

Founded in 2016 in the Swiss Jura by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, Brellum is an independent brand known for its direct-to-consumer model and limited annual production of no more than 299 COSC-certified chronometers. The brand debuted with the Duobox collection, recognised for its classic design, accessible pricing, and limited editions, including models featuring a […]

Jacques Bianchi Introduces the JB200 Aquastrike Collection Worn & Wound
Apr 17, 2025

Jacques Bianchi Introduces the JB200 Aquastrike Collection

I don’t know this for a fact, but I imagine it’s a real challenge to be a brand focused on dive watches in 2025. The dive watch is ubiquitous, and transcends the sport of diving. It’s become a shorthand for “sports watch” or “everyday watch” among many (but certainly not all) people who consume watches. And they are so simple, by design. The whole point of them is to be incredibly legible, reliable, and easy to use. Over decades, that’s translated to certain design codes that are just standard across the genre. Big lume filled hour markers, an easy to grip bezel, a robust and sporty case. Once you incorporate these necessities, it’s got to be tough to find ways to insert creativity and brand identity into a finished product. And then, of course, there’s the simple fact that many dive watch customers don’t even want brand identity or creativity in their dive watch, hence the enormous archive or articles on this very site and many others that seek to highlight innumerable watches that all kind of look alike.  This is all a big windup to say that Jacques Bianchi has figured out a way to put their own unique spin on the genre with every release. Their watches have a playfulness and romanticism to them that feels very much their own, whether it’s a fully lumed dial (which, OK, is common enough) or a SCUBA diver motif, there’s a sense of whimsy to their releases that is hard to ignore. Their latest collection, a reintroduction of the JB200 Aquastrike, ...

Introducing - New, Clean Black and White Editions of the Funky Junghans 1972 Competition Chronograph Monochrome
Junghans 1972 Competition Chronograph Apr 17, 2025

Introducing - New, Clean Black and White Editions of the Funky Junghans 1972 Competition Chronograph

A venerable German watch brand that was once the world’s largest watch and clock manufacturer by the early 20th century, Junghans is mainly known for its clean and attractive Max Bill collection as well as its elegant Meister range. There is, however, one collection that truly stands apart with its funky design and colours, a […]

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time SJX Watches
Bovet Apr 17, 2025

Bovet Scales Down the Daylight-Savings World Time

Following the launch of the uber, multi-function world time last year, Bovet Fleurier continues its exploration of time zones with the Récital 30, a simpler, everyday-wear evolution on its complex predecessor. Initial thoughts The Récital 30 is more accessible both in terms of function and price, and more restrained in terms of design; overall it’s a more wearable version of the full-fledged original. The new world time caters to a different customer from last year’s Récital 28, the client who doesn’t necessarily care for lavish decorations or extreme complexity, but seeks a forward-thinking, wearable world time with some unique functionality. While the accessibility of this should be applauded – it costs almost one-tenth the Recital 28 – this does leave the impression of a watered-down creation. There is almost no lavish movement decoration visible, instead the dial fully covers the face. And the calibre only incorporates one complication, admittedly one executed in a complex manner. World time indication At its core, the Récital 30 is built on the same principles that underpin its pricier bigger brother, namely the clever roller world time system. This ingenious mechanical solution allows seamless adjustments across 25 distinct time zones, including GMT+5:30 for New Delhi, India, which is offset by an inconvenient 30 minutes. The beauty of the system is its calibration for four distinct annual periods: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), American Summer Time...

First Look - The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement Monochrome
Singer Apr 16, 2025

First Look - The Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph with Restored Valjoux Movement

Singer (understand Singer Vehicle Design) first made a name for itself with its bespoke restorations of the Porsche 911, and in recent years, the California-based brand has also been turning heads in watchmaking with its Track 1 chronograph – known for its unconventional layouts and innovative AgenGraphe movements developed by Agenhor, without forgetting the Divetrack, […]

First Look - The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm Bell & Apr 15, 2025

First Look - The New, More Compact Bell & Ross BR-05 36mm

Bell & Ross has never strayed far from its winning formula of aeronautical instrument-inspired watches. Brandishing the tagline “from the cockpit to the wrist,” Bell & Ross’s watches are loyal to the “circle within a square design” inspired by dashboard flight instruments. However, the brand has understood that to reach more customers, it needs to […]

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue Fratello
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Apr 15, 2025

Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue

Tissot relaunched the PRX five years ago. Time flies when you’re having fun, doesn’t it? The integrated-bracelet sports watch has become something of a fan favorite in the meantime. It graces the wrists of many newcomers to the watch hobby and veterans alike. Tissot blessed us with tons of variants to choose from. Different sizes, […] Visit Hands-On With The Flashy Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm In Rose Tone And Blue to read the full article.

Introducing - The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Monochrome
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 14, 2025

Introducing - The New Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai is the official timekeeper of the Salone del Mobile, the largest and most prestigious annual international design fair held in Milan since 1961. Panerai’s involvement with Milan Design Week is celebrated with the release of the new Lumimor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574. As a product launched in 1949 that retains many original design […]

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More Fratello
Panerai Apr 12, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More

Though it seems like an age has passed, Watches and Wonders 2025 closed its doors just less than a week ago. The intense week-long event sees media, retailers, and other interested entities tread thousands of steps onto Palexpo’s uncanny light brown carpet as they flock from appointment to appointment. This is where we first get […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Nacho’s Picks From Tudor, Nomos, Panerai, And More to read the full article.

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816 SJX Watches
Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement Apr 11, 2025

Louis Moinet Debuts New Chronograph Movement in the 1816

A tribute to the first chronograph pocket watch, the Louis Moinet 1816 combines contemporary case design with an all-new, classically constructed chronograph movement featuring a column wheel, horizontal clutch, and swan’s neck regulator. With the 1816, Louis Moinet has concocted an unusual but appealing proposition that blends the new with the old. Initial thoughts Louis Moinet is regarded as the inventor of the chronograph thanks to the compteur de tierce (which translates as “thirds counter”) that he revealed in 1816. His creation was considered more of a scientific instrument than a chronograph as we know it today. It was Nicolas Rieussiec who actually coined the term “chronograph” a few years later in 1821. Now the revived brand bearing Moinet’s name has taken inspiration from his 1816 invention to create a reinterpretation of the compteur de tierce. The original “thirds counter”. Image – Louis Moinet With a monochromatic, all-titanium construction and integrated bracelet, the 1816 looks to be a sports watch, yet it only has a 30 m water resistance. The traditionally styled movement stands in contrast with the contemporary and somewhat trendy exterior. Such a tribute to a historic piece would arguably have worked better with appropriately classical design. As it is, the 1816 is neither a dress nor a sports watch. The design feels confused, but the appeal of the movement alone is clear since it ticks most of the boxes that collectors appreciate in an ...

Hands-on - The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy Apr 10, 2025

Hands-on - The Tudor Black Bay 58 Burgundy, now with METAS Movement and More Updates

Of all the new releases from Tudor at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the standout piece was undoubtedly the evolution of the Black Bay 58 line, now presented in a striking all-burgundy design, with both the dial and bezel dressed in the deep red tone. While the dial colour holds historical significance, the real game-changer […]

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States Worn & Wound
Apr 9, 2025

The Watch Industry Reacts to Tariffs on Swiss Imports to the United States

Last week, midway through the watch industry’s biggest trade show, Donald Trump announced 31% tariffs on Swiss imports. The proposed tariffs, enacted as of this morning, immediately became the focus of many discussions in Geneva between brands, retailers, and the press, at Palexpo and beyond. The United States is the largest importer of Swiss watches in the world, so a new tariff of 31% on Swiss imports to the US has the potential to reshape not just the watch market in the United States, but the industry as a whole.  The announcement could not have come at a more pressure packed time. The entire watch industry – retailers, brands, manufacturing partners, collectors, and executives – was gathered in Geneva last week, doing the business that normally shapes the arc of the year. As the news was absorbed on Thursday, we witnessed brands and retailers reacting in real time, changing or solidifying plans as appropriate. The inescapable nature of the topic in meetings meant to showcase new products underscored the seriousness of Trump’s announcement, and the potential implications.  In seeking to understand the ramifications of the planned tariffs, we sought out an economist to help firm up our understanding of what the administration is seeking to accomplish. Brendan Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, and the author of Horolonomics, a website dedicated to “economic complications in watchmaking.” We started by defining o...

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Debuts Apr 8, 2025

Grand Seiko Debuts the Angular, Sporty Tentagraph Tokyo Lion

Grand Seiko’s flagship mechanical chronograph has been reimagined as the Sports Collection Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009. Executed in the brand’s proprietary “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, the oversized, facetted case is inspired by the paw of a lion, the historical emblem of Grand Seiko. This is the first time the Tentagraph movement is being combined with the Tokyo Lion case, setting it apart from the original model that was in the classic Grand Seiko Evolution 9 design. Initial thoughts While the original Tentagraph was conventional in style, the Tokyo Lion edition is big and bold. The watch has presence on the wrist. The case is large at 43 mm wide and almost 16 mm high, with its many facetted surfaces catching the light nicely. While the concept of a lion-inspired case might sound gimmicky, the new Tentagraph has its own appeal. The size and style makes this less of a low-key everyday watch than the first Tentagraph, but definitely more striking and original. Even though the Tokyo Lion case is arguably an acquired taste, I like this more than the original. At US$16,400, the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is one of Grand Seiko’s priciest models in non-precious metal. But it is a flagship watch with a latest-generation movement, the cal. 9SC5, which incorporates the proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement and a free-sprung balance. The only shortcoming of the watch is the modular construction of the movement. Ten beats per second While the Tokyo Lion case design has been emplo...

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...