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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

The New Ming 20.01 Series 5 Features the Brand’s Most Complex Dial Yet Worn & Wound
Ming 20.01 Series 5 Features Jun 23, 2025

The New Ming 20.01 Series 5 Features the Brand’s Most Complex Dial Yet

As we’ve discussed at length here recently, one of our favorite things about Ming is their ability to innovate across price points. Recent watches in the 37 series, like the Minimalist and Ghost, prove that thoughtful contemporary design and creative watchmaking and engineering do not have to approach five figures. But then, when the brand does cross that five figure mark, and creates something in the haute horlogery realm, we get things that are incredibly special and can kind of break your brain, making you wonder both how they did it and what is this anyway? That’s very much the vibe of last year’s solid gold 20.01 Series 3, which featured a fused borosilicate dial with 600 tiny holes cut into it that were then filled with lume (all on top of an AgenGraphe chronograph movement, naturally). At the time, I thought that watch was Ming’s most avant-garde creation, but the latest watch in the 20.01 Series might just top it. The centerpiece of the new 20.01 Series 5 is a science-fiction inspired dial that is laser milled from a single block of titanium. I was fortunate to be able to spend some time with this watch ahead of its release, and even though I had my chance to gaze at the dial, look at it under magnification, and consider it in all the ways we always evaluate something like this, I still have a hard time actually describing it. It is, effectively, a decorative sheet of titanium that has been cut to form a complex radial pattern emanating from the dial’s ce...

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! Fratello
Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Jun 23, 2025

Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One!

Let’s start with a riddle. What has one eye, one mouth, two hands, and a rebellious soul? You got it - the Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III. The million-dollar question is whether humor belongs in luxury watchmaking, but when it looks good, it doesn’t matter if you think the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Le Régulateur Louis Erard × Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater III - Don’t Fight The Regulator WristMonster; Wear One! to read the full article.

The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Is Fun On the Wrist! WatchAdvice
Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Jun 23, 2025

The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chrongraph Is Fun On the Wrist!

The Hublot Aerofusion Titanium Chronograph isn’t your normal sports watch. It’s unapologetically bold, has striking wrist presence and ultimately, fun! What We Love The skeletonised dial looks great The look of the polished titanium gives it a lot of wrist presence Has the DNA of the original Classic Fusion Original, which is the essence of Hublot What We Don’t The clasp design could worry some wrists 45mm will be large for some The power reserve is on the smaller side compared to others on the market today Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 It doesn’t get too much more Hublot than the Classic Fusion collection, well, at least from a brand DNA perspective. The Classic Fusion is really where it all kicked off for the brand back in 1980 when Carlo Crocco had the crazy idea of putting rubber and precious metal together on a sports watch. Although it wasn’t called the Classic Fusion back then, that came later under the leadership of Jean Claude-Biver. The design was also something new and daring. Hublot is French for “Porthole” as as such, the design mimiced this with the bezel design and “H” shaped screws that are found on the case. From those beginnings back in 1980, the brand has grown immensely to what we know today. Hublot is a brand that is not afraid of breaking convention, going against the norm, and really just doing it their way! Over the years, Hublot has evolved substantially an...

First Look - ArtyA’s First Micro-Rotor Calibre and the new Luminity Wavy Collection Monochrome
Jun 19, 2025

First Look - ArtyA’s First Micro-Rotor Calibre and the new Luminity Wavy Collection

ArtyA, the avant-garde, family-run Swiss watchmaker known for its expressive, often unconventional horological creations of its founder Yvan Arpa, introduces the next evolution of its Luminity collection with a significant update: the launch of its first proprietary micro-rotor movement, the calibre AMR-02. Combining a visually open design with chronometric performance, this new collection keeps movement […]

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr Woo Jun 18, 2025

Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III

Roger Dubuis continues its creative partnership with tattoo artist Dr Woo in the third chapter of their collaborative series: the Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr Woo Episode III. Following the debut of Episode I in 2021 and the ceramic-cased Monobalancier Episode II in 2023, this new model dives deeper into space-inspired storytelling, merging symbolic design with technical […]

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr Woo Jun 18, 2025

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip

The third time that Dr. Woo, LA-based tattoo artist to the stars, and Genevan watchmaker Roger Dubuis collaborate, it takes on a galactic peace mission. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III shows design elements only found in the unimaginable depths of space. After traveling galaxies yet unknown to humankind, the creative expedition […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip to read the full article.

Interview - Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand Monochrome
Ming s Founder Ming Thein Jun 18, 2025

Interview - Horologer MING’s Founder Ming Thein on The Past, Present and Future of an Unusual Watch Brand

In a world where the watch industry is often anchored in heritage and tradition, Horloger MING takes a refreshingly modern approach, melding unique aesthetics with a thoughtful design philosophy. At the heart of it all is Ming Thein, photographer, designer and engineer, whose vision has propelled the brand from a bold idea to a cult […]

Introducing - The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years Monochrome
Ressence TYPE 9 S75 Jun 16, 2025

Introducing - The New Ressence TYPE 9 S75 to Celebrate Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 Years

Ressence’s partnership with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, UAE’s leading watch and jewellery retailer, has produced a series of limited editions over the years, each celebrating local heritage through innovative design. From the Type 1 DXB with its Arabesque-inspired grid motif to the Type 1 Slim DX2, and the Type 1 DX3 featuring traditional Girih geometric […]

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jun 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

Let’s be thankful that, in the watch world, “evolution” doesn’t always mean “getting larger.” Take the new 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (FC-776SAL3H6) as an example. This watch’s predecessor debuted in 2016 in a 42mm case. It was an important introduction because it was the market’s most affordable mechanical perpetual calendar watch when […] Visit Hands-On With The Updated And Upgraded 40mm Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship Fratello
Jun 14, 2025

The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship

As a watch writer, I sometimes run into something truly special and different from everything else. It doesn’t happen too often, but when it does, I know immediately. When we received the timepieces from the Chinese high-horology brand Celadon, I had that feeling as soon as I unwrapped them. After seeing the dials, it was […] Visit The Celadon Haute Horlogerie Century Cloisonné Collection - Displaying Brilliant Levels Of Chinese Craftsmanship to read the full article.

The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors Fratello
Jun 13, 2025

The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors

Almost exactly one year ago, J&Berg;, a new Finnish brand, launched with its debut model, the B2. The watches were met with near-universal praise due to their looks, materials, and specifications. A clean, modern design that could only be described as Nordic seemed to be a crowd-pleaser. After the success of the initial references, the […] Visit The J&Berg; B2 Returns With Two New Dial Colors to read the full article.

Introducing - New to the Wristmons Series, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask Monochrome
Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask Jun 12, 2025

Introducing - New to the Wristmons Series, the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Iron Mask and Golden Mask

Independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin adds two more watch models to his acclaimed Wristmons collection: the Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. These latest creations evolve the Joker concept through an open-dial design that merges theatrical inspiration with traditional watchmaking finishes. Konstantin Chaykin first explored open-dial Wristmons in 2020, debuting the idea with the unique […]

Introducing - The Funky Groove of the New MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Purple Monochrome
MB&F; Jun 12, 2025

Introducing - The Funky Groove of the New MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 Purple

Max Büsser’s childhood dream was to become a car designer. Although he ultimately studied engineering and founded MB&F;, one of the most successful indie watch brands, his passion for cars has permeated his design language, resulting in driver’s watches like the 1970s-inspired HM5, featuring a lateral speedometer-style display. The HM8 Mark 2, released in 2023, is a true […]

First Look - The 50th Anniversary Bulgari Bulgari Models with Marble Dials Monochrome
Bulgari Bulgari Models Jun 11, 2025

First Look - The 50th Anniversary Bulgari Bulgari Models with Marble Dials

The Bulgari Bulgari remains one of the brand‘s most iconic watches, alongside the Octo and the Serpenti, defined by its clean design and bold bezel engraving. Its story began in 1975 when Bulgari introduced the Bulgari Roma, a limited-edition timepiece designed by Gianni Bulgari as a personal gift for the brand’s top 100 clients. Featuring […]

Imagining The Dress Watch Of The Future: What Could It Look Like? Fratello
Jun 8, 2025

Imagining The Dress Watch Of The Future: What Could It Look Like?

I hereby declare 2025 as the first year of the Age of Elegance. Please don’t confuse the era upon us with the opulence and glamour of the Edwardian age; the Age of Elegance focuses on understated modernity, functional style, and technical charm. Sophistication 2.0 takes design cues from the rich watchmaking tradition and elevates them […] Visit Imagining The Dress Watch Of The Future: What Could It Look Like? to read the full article.

Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue WatchAdvice
Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar Jun 5, 2025

Reviewing The New Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar In Ice Blue

The first standard production watch with the Breitling B19 Perpetual Calendar movement, of course, had to be a Navitimer. We have gone hands-on with it to see how it stacks up! What We Love That ice-blue dial is stunning! Has an amazing wrist presence and an iconic design Easy to use and adjust movement with the perpetual calendar What We Don’t The reverse-style strap can get in the way, depending on your wrist size The 30m water resistance is on the low side The 43mm size will not suit all wrist sizes if you have a smaller wrist Overall Rating: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When you think of Breitling, one of the first, if not the first, model that comes to mind is the Navitimer. Not only is it one of Breitling’s most iconic models, but it is also one of the most iconic watches out there, thanks to its history, unique slide-rule bezel and overall design cues that make it stand out. You can easily recognise a Navitimer on the wrist from a distance. In that regard, it’s up there with the Submariner, the Speedmaster, the Luminor, and the Royal Oak, to name but a few. So it stands to reason that it was one of the models to receive the new in-house B19 Perpetual Calendar movement as part of Breitling’s 140th Anniversary Collection. The 18k Rose Gold 140th Anniversary Navitimer B19 Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This was my pick of the three, but we chose to review the Super Chronomat instead, given the uniquene...

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made

There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives.  But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers.  This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...

Introducing - The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet Monochrome
De Bethune Mystery Box Forget Time Jun 5, 2025

Introducing - The De Bethune Mystery Box: Forget Time, created by Fiona Krüger & Denis Flageollet

The “Mystery Box: Forget Time” results from the collaboration between Fiona Krüger and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, founder of De Bethune. Known for her original approach to watch design, Fiona Krüger has built a reputation within the independent watchmaking world for her artistic yet technically demanding creations. Her past work, like the Skull and Chaos […]

Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS Worn & Wound
Stowa Jun 4, 2025

Stowa Updates the Antea Classic KS

Bauhaus design, though never really leaving the spotlight, is certainly in a bit of a renaissance these days, with its focus on stylistic simplicity and function appealing to contemporary audiences just as successfully as it did during its heyday a full century ago. German watchmaker Stowa, however, is taking the history and legacy of the style in a more defined direction, with their latest Antea Classic KS in rose gold and anthracite.  According to the brand, they’ve been making Bahaus-style watches in Germany since 1937, and argue that perhaps the State School of Design (the originator of Bauhaus, which existed from 1919 to 1933) was a more direct influence on watchmakers of the 1930s than previously thought. In celebration of that marriage of influential German design and horology, Stowa has been producing a modernized version of its first Bauhaus watch since 2004. The new Antea Classic KS references continue that tightly-wound history, with new touches to appeal to current trends in watchmaking and design.  Since the original 1937 model wore a copper dial in a chrome-plated case, Stowa has reintroduced a version of that color combination with the new references. Both feature a highly-polished 35.5mm (44.6mm lug-to-lug) stainless steel case, which envelops the sunburst dial in either rose gold or anthracite. Temperature-blued steel hands sweep around the dial, pointing to thin and tall white Roman numerals with no indexes between each hour, giving the dial a very cl...

Introducing - The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Monochrome
Shapiro Infinity Series Pure J.N Jun 4, 2025

Introducing - The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? Fratello
Rolex Land-Dweller? Jun 4, 2025

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?

The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.

Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 3, 2025

Introducing - The NYC-Special Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle

Hublot’s Big Bang Meca-10 series was first introduced in 2016, and since then, the line has been known for its original design and 240-hour power reserve and an in-house movement that exposes its mechanism through a skeletonized display. Over the years, the series has been interpreted in various materials and sizes, including titanium, ceramic, carbon […]

First Look - The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Jun 3, 2025

First Look - The new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival Diver Shadow Editions

One of the pillars of Zenith’s collection, the Defy is a descendant of late 1960s models known for their sturdy construction and angular design. Marketed as the Time-Safe, the collection included a full-fledged diving version, the Defy Plongeur (Ref. A3648 and its variations), a 600m water-resistant watch equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. Following the […]

First Look - The New, Summer-Toned Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs in White and in Blue Monochrome
Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs Jun 2, 2025

First Look - The New, Summer-Toned Bulgari Aluminium Chronographs in White and in Blue

Since its debut in 1998, the Bulgari Aluminium collection has challenged traditional watchmaking norms by combining lightweight aluminium with resilient rubber. In 2020, Bulgari relaunched the collection with a design that was faithful to the original series and enhanced according to modern technical sensibilities. In 2023, the brand introduced refreshed chronograph and limited edition models, […]