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Results for GMT & World Time

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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Editorial: The Meaning of Quality in Vintage Watches SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Dec 18, 2019

Editorial: The Meaning of Quality in Vintage Watches

There are endless ways to collect in any category of art and collectibles, including watches. The easiest way is to buy whatever strikes one’s fancy, as a hobbyist’s pastime. Carried on over an extended period of time, one is bound to possess a sizeable collection, a mixed bag consisting of nice and, more likely than not, middling objects. But is this the best way? The alternative – and far more meaningful – way to collect, is the focus on quality. But just what, one may ask, is “quality”? In this day and age, it is a word thrown around a lot, by laymen, dealers, and collectors alike. To me, “quality”, first and foremost, refers to the significance of a given object. For the most serious collectors of timepieces made by Rolex and Patek Philippe – the two most important manufactures in watchmaking due to their continuous histories of producing illustrious craft – it entails the pursuit of models that are the most significant both aesthetically and technically.  At the pinnacle of Rolex collecting lies the ref. 6062. Debuted at the Basel fair in 1950, the 6062 was the world’s first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch with complete calendar and moon phase (pictured at top, a steel Rolex ref. 6062 from 1953). One of only two original Rolex models with moon phase – the other being the non-waterproof ref. 8171 with snap-back case – the 6062 represented the epitome of postwar Rolex watchmaking: a complicated yet robust and accurate automatic movement s...

VIDEO: Size isn’t everything with the Rado Captain Cook Automatic Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Ever Dec 18, 2019

VIDEO: Size isn’t everything with the Rado Captain Cook Automatic

Ever since its shock unveiling at Baselworld 2017, Rado’s exciting range of Captain Cooks has represented a compelling proposition for anyone who’s in the market for a solid, fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. However, most of the collection is on the larger size, measuring in at a fashionable and contemporary 42mm. Fans fond of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Size isn’t everything with the Rado Captain Cook Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue USP Dec 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue

USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it - they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches? Time+Tide
Longines nicest pilot’s watches? Dec 17, 2019

Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches?

Editor’s note: Almost all reissues of vintage timepieces have an exciting story to tell – that’s just the way it is, otherwise watchmakers wouldn’t bother remaking. Thing is, though, when a watch manufacturer does decide to create an homage timepiece, they usually have the original in their possession. That was not the case when Longines … ContinuedThe post Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In the room for the Phillips Game Changers Auction Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2019

In the room for the Phillips Game Changers Auction

A premier watch auction is an inspiring event. Last week, I joined the bidders at Phillips auction house on Park Avenue in New York. As we progressed through the 74 lots on offer, I was struck by the truly global nature of the vintage watch market. The auctioneer and impresario Aurel Bacs flawlessly switched between … ContinuedThe post In the room for the Phillips Game Changers Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019 Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2019

LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019

As 2019 draws to a close and I get the opportunity to reflect on the year that was (as well as prepare for endless upcoming jokes on my 2020 vision), it’s impossible not to acknowledge that it has been a massive year for Time+Tide. The team has worked hard on a number of different projects, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s 5 favourite articles of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 “One Dec 16, 2019

HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years?

Creating a timepiece that needs to pay homage while simultaneously capturing the imagination of the horological community is no mean feat … in fact, it’s fraught with failure. Time and time again, we’ve seen new watches based on vintage timepieces be unveiled, only to have them fall flat on their crystal-domed faces. Unveiled at this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the DOXA SUB 200 “One of the Best Value Watches” of recent years? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2019

VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool

Sometimes, it pays to be conservative. It isn’t advice that should be regularly advocated; however, when it comes to what you wear on your wrist, sometimes it is a must to have something that is at the same time classic and crisp. In the case of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic white dial, that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the white dial Clifton Baumatic is classic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique It was Dec 15, 2019

3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique

It was only three short years ago when the first-ever Australian Seiko Boutique opened in Sydney, but the Japanese powerhouse has kept very busy, announcing the exciting news of the opening of the first-ever Australian Grand Seiko Boutique. This is a strong statement from the brand as they continue to drive the distinction of Grand … ContinuedThe post 3 watches you can buy right now at the new Grand Seiko Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt One Dec 15, 2019

VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt

One of the most appealing elements of a Louis Vuitton watch is just how unabashedly bold they are in their design, as well as their wrist presence. The new Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt is an excellent example, with its amply portioned 46mm stainless steel case, vivid dial graphics and branded rubber strap. The dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Distinctive design with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Damier Cobalt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update Dec 14, 2019

Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update

Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. … ContinuedThe post Germanic genius: the Nomos Tangente neomatik 41 Update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco? Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco? It’s been Dec 14, 2019

VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco?

It’s been a big year for the TAG Heuer Monaco as it celebrated 50 years of production from when it was first released in 1969. The brand has released a number of limited editions this year in celebration; however, they arguably saved the most important release till last with the new TAG Heuer Monaco Heuer … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Is this the most important TAG Heuer Monaco? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s) Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Dec 13, 2019

50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s)

1969 marked the introduction of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. These were presented by Zenith with its El Primero, Seiko with the 5 Speedtimer, and an illustrious group consisting of Breitling, Heuer/Leonidas, and Hamilton/Büren, with the Chronomatic Caliber 11. Sabine Zwettler takes us through the history and looks at three of the latest-generation commemorative automatic chronographs by these early pioneers.

Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series SJX Watches
Dec 13, 2019

Up Close: J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series

An educator by profession, Josh Shapiro had a longtime interest in watchmaking, which sharpened into a pursuit of traditional engine turning in 2013. After several years of practice – and a roomful of guilloche machines – the self-taught guillocheur and watchmaker produced a handful of dials for American watchmaker David Walter in 2016. And last year Josh launched his own brand, J.N. Shapiro, which he now pursues full-time, while remaining a part-time vice principal at a high school in Los Angeles. His debut watch was the Infinity Series, named after the Infinity Weave, a proprietary guilloche pattern he invented. The first J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series delivered, the watch pictured here, was finished earlier this year – and is numbered “N.01”. Though Josh offers a variety of options for the case and dial colours, this watch hews closely to the prototype, with a rose gold case, silver dial, and blue hands. It’s important to note this is actually the first watch Josh sold, and consequently shows some of the inevitable inconsistencies of a watchmaker’s early work. There are a couple of stray marks and burrs on the dial, and a bit of lint, but the early work of independent watchmakers is usually inconsistent, which is part of the hand-finished charm, and also proof of how artisans evolve. Josh’s subsequent dials have improved tremendously. Josh Shapiro with one of his straight-line machines. Photo – J.N. Shapiro The Infinity Series has a simple but effect...

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’ SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Dec 13, 2019

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’

Vacheron Constantin’s annual collection of one-off and custom haute horlogerie watches was titled La Musique du Temps this year, being most made up of minute repeaters. They ranged from the strikingly simple to exceedingly ornate, with one of the prime examples of simplicity being the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. Being one of two time-only minute repeaters in the collection – the other is ‘Dance of the Gemstones’ – the Romantic Note is essentially a variant of the regular-production Calibre 1731 repeater. It’s a large but elegantly proportioned watch, measuring 41mm by 8.5mm, so it sits wide but flat on the wrist. Though not overly large, the watch would be a bit more elegant if it were smaller. On a small wrist the wide-but-flat proportions can resemble a dinner plate. The smallest case size possible, given the diameter of the movement, is about 39mm, which would have given the watch a more tangible vintage feel. Design-wise the case is simple, which suits the watch well. The styling is taken from the Traditionnelle line, meaning it is relatively angular, with lots of flat surfaces when viewed from the front, which is deceptively simple. Much of the case detail lies in its profile – the case band has a single, lengthwise step, along with lugs inspired by the Maltese cross, the company’s logo. And the case back has a fluted edge as a design feature, being a snap-on, rather than screw-down back. Though the case design is fo...

The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#5: “The Cost Per Wear Argument”) Time+Tide
Dec 12, 2019

The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#5: “The Cost Per Wear Argument”)

NOTE: We understand that you’ve found a new watch to add to your collection (congratulations!). But rationalising this fact – coupled with the fact that it’ll cost a bucket-load of cash – may not always sit well with the less horologically minded. That’s where we come in … Use The Enabler’s advanced levels of sophistry to validate … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch. (#5: “The Cost Per Wear Argument”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique Dec 11, 2019

EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow

For the first time ever, Jaeger-LeCoultre is opening a stand-alone boutique in Australia, which aims to offer greater access for their Australian enthusiasts than ever before. The brand is also quietly confident that the Australian market has reached a level of maturity that a complex and nuanced brand such as Jaeger-LeCoultre can capitalise on the … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Here’s why the first ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Sydney boutique is opening tomorrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Platinum SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Dec 11, 2019

Blancpain Introduces the Villeret Ultraplate in Platinum

Originally introduced in stainless steel and red gold earlier in the year, Blancpain has just unveiled the top of the line Villeret Ultraplate 6605, now in platinum with a deep blue dial in an 88-piece limited edition. Ultra plate is French for “ultra flat”, and it aptly describes the line, which includes both automatic and hand-wound models. The new Villeret Ultraplate 6605 is essentially the hand-wound, time-only version of the self-winding (plus date) Ultraplate 6223 that’s a decades-old mainstay in the Blancpain line-up. At 40mm wide and just 7.39mm high, the Ultraplate 6605 is compact on both dimensions and exceedingly elegant. It’s also slightly larger but thinner than the automatic 6223. Entirely polished, the platinum case is done in typical Blancpain style, with a thin, double-stepped bezel and slim, short lugs that allow the watch to wear smaller than expected. The deep blue dial has a simple sun-ray finish and features applied Roman numerals in white gold, along with a pair of elegant, open-worked leaf-shaped hands – a tiny detail but one that lightens the dial. Powering the watch is the hand-wound cal. 11A4B. Though a new movement, it is based on the automatic Frederic Piguet cal. 1150 introduced in 1988. The 11A4B is essentially an enlarged, hand-wind variant of the cal. 1150, with a diameter of 27.8m versus the 1150’s 26.2mm. Some of the enlargement is thanks to wider base plate and bridges, while retaining the original architecture – explain...