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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Custom Bovet Watches for the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux having just announced Jun 8, 2021

Custom Bovet Watches for the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail

Having just debuted its Coachbuild division where spare-no-expense bespoke automobiles are built, Rolls-Royce revealed the very first car to roll off the Coachbuild production line – the Boat Tail. Reportedly priced at US$25 million – and reputedly sold to Jay-Z and Beyoncé – the Boat Tail is a yacht-sized convertible with a built-in cocktail bar. Likely the most expensive car today, the US$25 million automobile is delivered with a champagne chiller, tea towels, and crystalware – and a pair of unique Bovet watches that double up as dashboard clocks. The car is painted in the clients’ favourite shade of blue Best known for its elaborate, double-sided watches, Bovet created a pair of watches for the Boat Tail’s husband-and-wife owners. The two timepieces required some 3,000 hours of work for both development and execution according to Bovet. The two timepieces are based on the Amadeo, Bovet’s signature wristwatch that can be converted into a pocket watch – or mounted on the Boat Tail’s instrument panel – a nod to the brand’s history as a leading maker of ornate pocket watches for the 19th century Chinese market. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watchmakers and luxury automobiles manufacturers are common, with Girard-Perregaux having just announced a partnership with Aston Martin and Richard Mille signing with Ferrari last year. Most are a good match in terms of position, with some exceptions like the longstanding tie-up between Breitling and ...

Louis Erard Introduces the Alain Silberstein Le Triptyque SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 8, 2021

Louis Erard Introduces the Alain Silberstein Le Triptyque

Having debuted the first Alain Silberstein collaboration two years ago, Louis Erard is now back with a trio of watches conceived by the designer known for his Bauhaus-inspired, offbeat style – the Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Featuring a titanium case with unusual fixed lugs that form a frame, the watches are rendered in Mr Silberstein’s recognisable style made up of geometric shapes and primary colours. The three are essentially Mr Silberstein’s interpretation of the traditionally-styled Excellence Triptych that Louis Erard debuted last year. Available individually or in a box set accompanied by a Silberstein NFT artwork, the watches are priced affordably, starting at CHF3,500 for the time-and-date and rising to just CHF4,500 for the single-button chronograph. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein II Initial thoughts The Alain Silberstein triptych is easy to like. The watches have a distinctive, cheery style while being accessible in price. They are simple in construction and finish – the movements, for instance, are reliable but not much to look at – but appropriate for the price and still good value. Although the design is entirely new, the case retains the character of Alain Silberstein’s original timepieces, as do the dials. That said, the shape of the hands doesn’t help legibility so it takes a while to read the time. And although La Semaine is the base model in the line up, it has the bonus feature of Mr Silberstein’s amusi...

In-Depth: The Digital Icons – Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage, and Harry Winston Opus 3 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Vagabondage Jun 7, 2021

In-Depth: The Digital Icons – Lange Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage, and Harry Winston Opus 3

Digital time displays might seem like a modern invention but they have been found in watches since the early 1800s. Digital displays are found in clocks from even farther back – Lange’s trademark oversized date was inspired by the five-minute, digital clock built by Ferdinand-Adolph Lange for Dresden’s Semper opera house that opened in 1841. But the biggest advances in mechanical digital time displays – with jumping indications – all arrived soon after the turn of the millennium. And the most important are just three – the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, F.P. Journe Vagabondage III, and Harry Winston Opus 3 – and now we’re going to put them side by side. The five-minute clock that sits just above the stage in the Semperoper, showing 07:30 pm. Photo – A. Lange & Söhne An new, old idea Watches with a single digital display, namely a jumping hours, date as far back as the early 19th century. Enough of them were made that such pocket watches appear regularly at auction. But a single digital display does not a digital watch make. The watch with a jumping, double-digital time display – and hence a true digital watch – was invented in 1883 when Austrian engineer Josef Pallweber patented a mechanism that indicated the time with discs, read through two windows, one for the hours and other, the minutes. He licensed the patent to a handful of watch brands, though it is IWC that is most closely associated with the Pallweber display. At the same time, it is importa...

Remembering that time The Rock punched his stuntman in the face, and gave him a Rolex to remember it by… Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 7, 2021

Remembering that time The Rock punched his stuntman in the face, and gave him a Rolex to remember it by…

Sometimes in the background while I am writing, or when I am taking a quick break, I will have The Graham Norton Show clips playing in the background. Today while I was buried in my laptop, typing away, I heard The Rock during a clip say the word Rolex, and like a dog hearing the … ContinuedThe post Remembering that time The Rock punched his stuntman in the face, and gave him a Rolex to remember it by… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2021

The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology

Bravo Elshan! I’m happy to say I have been a (small) part of the rise of Zelos Watches, with two of their tough tools previously in my collection, the Hammerhead and Eagle. Through the sheer determination and creative drive of owner and designer Elshan Tang, Zelos Watches have enjoyed a sharp rise from their 2014 … ContinuedThe post The Zelos Mirage 2 marks a step up from microbrand to haute horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Isotope GMT 0º is a futuristic GMT with a fascinating twist Time+Tide
Isotope GMT 0º Jun 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Isotope GMT 0º is a futuristic GMT with a fascinating twist

It’s all well and good catering to our tastes for vintage nostalgia and I admit that I’m usually wearing some form of field / pilot’s / diving watch of 37-40mm that conforms to that genre. But there is a feeling that we are nearing the peak of that graph. If that should happen, the Isotope … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Isotope GMT 0º is a futuristic GMT with a fascinating twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 5, 2021

Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind

Each year the Horological Society of New York and Phillips team up to raise money to advance the art and science of horology – offering financial aid to watchmaking institutions and full-time watchmaking students in the United States. All proceeds, including the 26% buyers premium, go towards the cause, a much needed effort to help … ContinuedThe post Highlights of the HSNY x Phillips 2021 Charity Auction include a co-branded Rolex and a watch with a NY state of mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Mido watches to buy in the T+T Shop right now Time+Tide
Mido Jun 4, 2021

5 Mido watches to buy in the T+T Shop right now

Founded more than a century ago, Mido is a brand that has some serious history behind it. From producing watches for the founder of Bugatti, to making some of the earliest functional dive watches, Mido still remains under the radar of some enthusiasts. In recent years, the Le Locle-founded watchmaker has carved out a niche … ContinuedThe post 5 Mido watches to buy in the T+T Shop right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Jun 4, 2021

The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party

Recently we saw the return of the Baume & Mercier Riviera in the form of three configurations: the 42mm Baumatic, 42mm Automatic, and 36mm quartz. Amongst the Time+Tide team we unanimously welcomed the Riviera and lauded the line for creating a more affordable opportunity to get a quality integrated, stainless-steel sports watch. But the Riviera … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Bvlgari Octo Tattoo Aria Revolution
Bvlgari Octo Tattoo Aria Wei Jun 4, 2021

Introducing the Bvlgari Octo Tattoo Aria

Wei Koh speaks with Laurent Picciotto, founding owner of Chronopassion in Paris, and one of the most influential personalities in contemporary watchmaking; Mo Coppoletta, a London-based aesthete renowned for his artistic tattooing; Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director of Bvlgari on the now sold out limited edition of 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Tattoo Aria.

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 4, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver

One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it Time+Tide
Jun 3, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it

Despite living in Melbourne’s lockdown 4.0, it was another busy week at Time+Tide, where we took a look at a few of the watches of the rich and famous. From Drake and Travis Scott to LVMH founder Bernard Arnault, when you’ve got more money than you can ever possibly spend, what are the watches you … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Keen to get a discount on Rolex? With the help of eBay, it’s possible Time+Tide
Rolex ? Jun 3, 2021

Keen to get a discount on Rolex? With the help of eBay, it’s possible

Rolex is a brand that some collectors love to hate. No one is disputing they are a brand that makes some of the best watches in the world, but frustration can arise in enthusiast circles around lack of supply and exorbitant prices on the secondary market. Over the last nine months or so, eBay has … ContinuedThe post Keen to get a discount on Rolex? With the help of eBay, it’s possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) Time+Tide
Jun 3, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!)

Editor’s note: As part of his ongoing column, David thumbs his nose at high horology to rummage through the bargain bin and unearth some mind-boggling bang for your buckaroos. While it may sound like a ski run in the Alps, the Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is actually a rather handsome timepiece with a distinct Bauhaus aesthetic and … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux teams up Jun 2, 2021

A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

You never really know what to expect from a brand collaboration. When I first saw that Aston Martin had teamed up with Girard-Perregaux, courtesy of the gorgeous green-liveried Formula 1 team, I assumed that we’d soon see the likes of Sebastian Vettel and Lance Stroll sporting something like a special-edition Laureato in British Racing Green. … ContinuedThe post A concept car for the wrist: Girard-Perregaux teams up with Aston Martin on the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Introduces the NASA Space Collection SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 2, 2021

Swatch Introduces the NASA Space Collection

Shortly after launching the Earth-friendly Big Bold Bioceramic made of plant-based plastic, Swatch is venturing off the planet and towards the stars with the Space Collection. A line of five watches conceived in collaboration with American space agency NASA, the Space Collection is inspired by NASA’s colours and spacesuits. It is made up of a trio of extra-large Big Bold watches with Bioceramic cases, along with a pair of more classical Gent models in regular plastic. Old school Swatch: Space Race (left) and Take Me to the Moon. Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of Swatch and own several, including the MoMA “Starry Night” launched last month. The brand is often neglected by enthusiasts because of its fun and low-cost watches, despite Swatch having played a pivotal role in keeping Swiss watchmaking going during the Quartz Crisis. In fact, Swatch was crucial enough that its parent company renamed itself Swatch Group, despite owning brands like Omega and Breguet. It comes as no surprise that I like the new Space Collection, especially the Big Bold models. The Space Collection represents Swatch doing what it does best – offering fun, interesting timepieces at an accessible price point. In fact, the Space Collection models are likely the most affordable NASA-endorsed watches on the market. To put things in perspective, even the top-of-the-line Big Bold Chrono is cheaper than Omega’s NASA velcro straps. Starting at US$125 for the time-only version – the line up in...

Drake’s most low-key watch is still the wristwear of a stone-cold baller Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Drake seems Jun 2, 2021

Drake’s most low-key watch is still the wristwear of a stone-cold baller

As you’d expect from a musical superstar, the Drake watch collection is spectacular. From Richard Mille to Patek Philippe, Drake seems to have just about every desirable watch there is. It’s such a good collection in fact, we once compared it to the collection of Jay-Z, who is no horological slouch himself. But what is … ContinuedThe post Drake’s most low-key watch is still the wristwear of a stone-cold baller appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The People’s Choice Award for the most innovative watch of Watches & Wonders goes to… Time+Tide
Jun 1, 2021

The People’s Choice Award for the most innovative watch of Watches & Wonders goes to…

Recap: after this year’s Watches & Wonders, Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk, slash, argue over which were the best releases. They selected their faves in four different categories and then asked viewers and readers to make … ContinuedThe post The People’s Choice Award for the most innovative watch of Watches & Wonders goes to… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.