Hodinkee
Introducing: The Aera M-1 – The Young Brand's First Field Watch
The brand introduces its smallest case size in two new manually wound entries in the lineup with the "Field" and "Blackbird."
Results for Faraday Cage (Antimagnetic Case)
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Le Régulateur Inspired by Vianney Halter’s Antiqua
Having unveiled its first Vianney Halter collaboration in 2020, Louis Erard now follows up with the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II that’s notably superior in style and details. Modelled on the Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter II retains the usual Louis Erard regulator format, but smartly tweaked to replicate key elements of the Antiqua, including the rivets on the bezel, case profile, and multi-part dial. The new regulator is offered in two limited editions of 178 pieces each: the one with a silvered dial and gilt chapter rings is available only on Louis Erard’s online store, while the second edition with an inverted dial finish will only be sold at the brand’s retailers around the world. The Louis Erard e-commerce exclusive (left), and the retailer edition Initial thoughts Louis Erard has rolled out numerous collaborations with independent watchmakers. Most of them are convincing tributes to the original, but of varying levels of customisation. A good number of them employ the stock regulator case but with an edition-specific dial, which was the case for the first Vianney Halter collab. The new Vianney Halter regulator, on the other hand, features components unique to this model, giving it a distinctive look. The dial, case, bezel, and case back are all made for this edition, with only the movement being stock. As result, this captures the look and feel of the original watch that inspired it much better than past collabo...
Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Review
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe used to be seen as something like a younger sibling to the classic Fifty Fathoms but after more than a decade in production (of the current iteration, at least) I would now classify it as the more modern sibling. The clean lines and sleek angles work particularly well in what is typically the bulkier category of diver chronographs, let alone flyback chronographs. But, the Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Chronograph seen here, done in a ceramic case and green colorway, manages to exceed expectations and defy any baggage or preconceptions the category may bring with it. One thing you won’t get from the images alone is just how lightweight the watch is, due to its black ceramic case. Ceramic is one of my favorite materials for a watch case (in addition to titanium) not just because of the weight but also the scratch resistance that comes with it. It also looks great, especially contrasted against that wonderfully vibrant green used on the dial and bezel here. Divers' chronographs are a particular challenge because, well, operating a chronograph underwater presents some serious water-resistance issues. That said, Blancpain is confident in its assertion that the chronograph can safely be activated underwater. And for those not familiar, a flyback is significantly more complex than a typical chronograph because it does not have to be stopped before resetting. While we’re on the topic, the F385 caliber deserves some love because it ...
Fratello
Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua
The all-new Ressence Type 9 is a sleek creation in either warm gray or a fresh shade of aqua blue. Its pebble-like titanium case measures 39mm wide, making it the smallest Ressence timepiece ever. The watch is a slimmed-down and refined version of the Type 8 and shows only the hours and minutes. It’s not […] Visit Introducing The All-New Ressence Type 9 In Warm Gray And Fresh Aqua to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a Genuine Grand Slam Memento
Hublot has always been associated with the fusion of disparate materials, starting with Carlo Crocco’s surprising cocktail of a gold case and rubber strap on board the flagship Classic Original. Hublot’s latest watch dedicated to tennis legend Novak Djokovic takes the “art of fusion” to unimaginable levels and even slips in the much-desired sustainability card. […]
Monochrome
March LA.B Introduces Three New Versions of its Flagship AM2
Launched in 2011, the AM2 is March LA.B’s flagship collection. This angular watch was named upon the initials of one of the three founders of the brand, Alain Marhic. With strong retro-futuristic vibes, its 8-sided case stands out with its sloping facets. Following the introduction of the titanium Millésime March 2024 edition in March and […]
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic weighs less than a tennis ball
Hublot doubles down on tennis goat Novak by using his polos and racquets in this new case material composite. The post The new Hublot Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic weighs less than a tennis ball appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition
The shape of the case and bracelet on Czapek’s Antarctique has remained unchanged since its introduction in 2020. There are versions in stainless steel, gold, and titanium, for example, but they all share the same attractive and popular integrated construction. The Antarctique’s dial, on the other hand, seems more like a blank canvas that gets […] Visit Introducing: The Space-Inspired Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
Video – A Closer Look at the Edgy Zenith Defy Revival A3648, Rekindling that 1969 ‘Everything is Possible’ Spirit
The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT
As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Mark Alamares Picks A JDM Seiko Trio
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
SJX Watches
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement
Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series
New case, same movement - but how?The post Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – Compact and Colourful, Here’s the new Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 34
Few watch designs offer the freedom to create a series of nearly identical-looking pieces that remain universally appealing, regardless of case size or dial colour. Nomos timepieces, defined by a beautiful simplicity rooted in Bauhaus principles, showcase this versatility nicely… Take for instance the Club Sport series. The sporty line was first introduced in a […]
Worn & Wound
Opinion: Patek Philippe, the Cubitus, and Elitism in Modern Watchmaking
Last month, Patek Philippe launched their first new watch collection in decades: the Cubitus. It was met with, as you’ve surely seen by now, a chorus of widespread skepticism and bewilderment. Ostensibly a replacement for the now discontinued stainless steel Nautilus, the Cubitus borrows the bracelet and dial treatment from that watch, and makes the case square. The consensus seems to be that they turned one of the most elegant luxury sports watches ever made into something ungainly, and they didn’t even take the time to do it in a thoughtful way. Words like “lazy” and “ugly” fill out the diatribes from commenters who disapprove. For me and the rest of the team at Worn & Wound, new releases from Patek Philippe are something of a spectator sport. I can’t speak for all of my colleagues, but feelings about the brand range from lukewarm appreciation for watches that are objectively well made and designed, to a more straight up boredom (that’s me), to some version of the “I don’t think of you at all” Mad Men meme (also me). It’s fair to say, though, that none of us are die hard Patek fans in the same way, for instance, that we follow new releases from brands like, I dunno, Grand Seiko, Christopher Ward, Armin Strom, Garrick, Tudor, and the like. The watches we get excited about span a huge range of accessibility both in terms of price and actual availability. But a good watch is a good watch. This is all to say, it shouldn’t be much of a surprise t...
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Geneva Auctions Fall 2024
Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...
Time+Tide
Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics)
The case, the dial, the movement... They are all solid rose gold [insert drool emoji].The post Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Beefs Up the Retro Defy Diver
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler Debuts Hand Engraved Faune et Flore
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying Tourbillon, 28 Years In The Making
The smallest flying tourbillon in the world, in the same compact case as the original L.U.C collection.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard’s Régulateur with an Engraved, Gilt Dial
The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...
Monochrome
First Look – The new Black/Platinum Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887
First presented in 2017, the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 came as a surprise, initiating an unprecedented design for the collection. This highly complex Breguet watch, first available in a platinum case with a blue dial, actually teased the complete revamp of the collection that occurred a year later. Three years later for the 220th […]
Time+Tide
French artist Laurent Grasso brings his aura to a midnight blue limited edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo
This new limited edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo has a first-ever PVD-blue titanium case and bracelet.The post French artist Laurent Grasso brings his aura to a midnight blue limited edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – A New Silver Dial for the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver (Incl. Video)
Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]
Time+Tide
The AIS Collective x Maximilian Maertens ChronoSphere is a watch box that doubles as a piece of art
Designed by MB&F; creative designer Maximilian Maertens, it's the first watch case that doubles as a piece of tasteful home décor.The post The AIS Collective x Maximilian Maertens ChronoSphere is a watch box that doubles as a piece of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel
In 2021, Farer introduced its Field Collection. It consisted of three watches, all with the same compact stainless steel case but rather diverse yet colorful dial designs. The common denominator was that they were all inspired by field watches. Now the British-based brand has reintroduced its Field Collection. The Pembroke II, Lomond II, and Exmoor […] Visit Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition
Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The C by Romain Gauthier Platinum Edition Bracelet Joins the Heritage Collection
This summer, indie watchmaker Romain Gauthier announced the end of the titanium-case-rubber-strap editions of its contemporary, aesthetically and horologically pleasing C by Romain Gauthier watch line, which was first launched in 2021 as the Continuum and now comprises two sub-collections. The Freedom collection is reserved for titanium-cased watches on straps and titanium bracelets, while the […]
Time+Tide
Best enamel dial watches, from value-oriented microbrands to the haute horlogerie stuff of dreams
In case you've wondered what the difference between $500 and $200,000 dials is.The post Best enamel dial watches, from value-oriented microbrands to the haute horlogerie stuff of dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.