Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT
The long wait is over as a GMT finally returns to the Doxa line up.
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Hodinkee
The long wait is over as a GMT finally returns to the Doxa line up.
Teddy Baldassarre
I recently had the chance to drop in to the District Time watch show in Washington, D.C., a microbrand-centric watch expo that has grown steadily over the years, with this year’s edition featuring more than 50 brands. Loren Sciurba and his team from The Time Bum blog, along with co-sponsor McDowell Time, did a fantastic job bringing the horological heat to a traditionally underserved Mid-Atlantic market, and based on the wall-to-wall crowds over two days, the event was a resounding smash. I had a blast on this run-and-gun road trip, getting to spend the day with our intrepid media maestro, Danny Milton, connecting with old friends and making new ones in this celebration of watch culture at its absolute finest. Even with a larger space this year, lines at the booths were stacked, with queues for brands such as Christopher Ward extending halfway through the length of the hall. There was plenty to see and try on, with Danny having way too much fun posing with the Heisman Trophy at the Axia Time booth. And if you didn’t get the chance to check it out yourself, we’ve got you covered. Some of these watches are brand new, and some new to us with our first in-hand impressions, but it was fantastic to experience a lot of these microbrands up close, given the difficulty in seeing many of them first-hand before clicking the “Buy It Now” button. So here, in alphabetical order, are ten standouts that really won our hearts and minds, and will likely be lightening our wallet...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025, we have been highlighting brands that have an anniversary to celebrate. Last week, we focused on Vacheron Constantin, and in the weeks before, we put the spotlight on Zenith. Brands like Breguet, Blancpain, and Audemars Piguet have anniversaries this year too, but they […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Less Obvious Rolex GMT-Master Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We held a special evening in the Leica London store to discover how the brand's expertise in optics has pivoted into watchmaking.The post Time+Tide take over Leica in London appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Breitling continues its march towards movement independence with the Caliber B31, which finds a home in a new Top Time three-hander.The post Breitling debuts first three-hand manufacture movement (and Austin Butler partnership!) with new Top Time B31 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year. As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...
Time+Tide
Our first custom hard watch cases, produced in collaboration with Cased in Time, are ready to protect your watch in delectable durability.The post Our Time+Tide Blueberry D’ohnut Cases are the sweetest way to protect your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An Italian retailer best known for representing independent watchmakers, GMT Milano has just announced its own Voutilainen limited edition, the KV20i Reversed GMT Milano. Based on Voutilainen’s inverted Vingt-8, the KV20i GMT edition sports a 4N gold-gilt movement that stands in bright contrast with the titanium case. The combination is classical and brings to mind historical pocket watches with frosted gilt movements. Initial thoughts The KV20i for GMT Milano employs a familiar combination of colours and finishes, but it stills manages to look fresh enough to be interesting. It helps that Voutilainen’s quality is impeccable, so everything that brand produces possesses a sheen that adds to the appeal, regardless of colour or style. A good part of Voutilainen’s business is customised watches, so the GMT edition isn’t unique per se. But it is a good looking watch that is instantly appealing. This KV20i is also priced the same as a standard version from Voutilainen, so it’s also a fair proposition in value terms. A reversed watch The KV20i is the second generation of Voutilainen’s “reverse” model that debuted in 2019. It’s essentially an inverted version of the Vingt-8, the brand’s signature chronometer wristwatch. The calibre has been turned over so that most of the action is on the front. The balance wheel, barrel, and going train are visible on the open dial, along with the indirect going train that relocates the hands from the back to front and centre....
Hodinkee
And brand ambassador Austin Butler fronts the time-only mid-size (hurrah) campaign.
Time+Tide
Czapek's integrated sports watch gets a new in-house flying tourbillon movement and gorgeous guilloché dial for Watches and Wonders 2025.The post The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon combines the brand’s sportiest model with a high complication for the first time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking to shop for watches in the Harbour City? Check out this guide, written by our native Sydneysider, Jamie.The post Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Taiko Spin Time shows off the versatility of Louis Vuitton's refreshed Tambour, with a unique complication to boot.The post We get hands on with two Tambour Taiko Spin Time models from Louis Vuitton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The latest watch from Ressence represents a number of firsts for the brand. It’s their first watch with a bracelet, the first with a GMT complication, and the first to be marketed somewhat boldly as a tool watch. The conceit behind the Type 7 is express the Ressence look and the brand’s principles in the most rugged possible context. It borrows many ideas and features from previous releases, as you’d expect, but combines them into something genuinely new and fills out a spot in the Ressence catalog that has somewhat surprisingly always been open. Ressence calls the Type 7 their “sportive-chic GMT,” which is language that we sometimes hear high end brands apply to elegant sports watches derived from a design language that might not traditionally support a true sports watch. “Chic” is often code for integrated bracelet, and expensive, and both of those are (somewhat) true of the Type 7. I imagine there will be straps that can fit this watch, but it was clearly conceived from the start as being made for a bracelet, so we can call it integrated in spirit, at least. Like the case, the bracelet is constructed from titanium, and includes a clasp with micro-adjust built in. The case measures 41mm in diameter and is 14mm tall. It’s 50 meters water resistant, which is maybe not as robust as some might expect when the “tool watch” label is invoked, but is pretty deep when compared to most other watches in the Ressence catalog, with the notable exception of the...
Monochrome
The orbital-infused world of Ressence is a rather special one, but it has just gotten even more exciting. Ever since its debut in 2010, the Belgian brand has etched away its place in the independent watchmaking scene with highly original creations revolving around a unique concept. From the Type Zero to the oil-filled Type 3 […]
SJX Watches
We’ve said it before, but 2025 is a big year for anniversaries in the watch business, with brands like Breguet and Audemars Piguet celebrating 250 and 150 years, respectively. But it’s not just the big brands that have something to celebrate; this year also marks the 15th anniversary of Ressence, which has just launched its first proper complication, the Type 7 GMT. At launch, the Type 7 is available in Night Blue or Aquamarine, the latter being an 80-piece anniversary edition. It’s also the first Ressence to come equipped with a bracelet, enhancing its versatility. Initial thoughts Time flies when you’re having fun, which must be why I was shocked to realise Ressence is turning 15 years old this year. The Type 7 keeps the good times going with several of my favourite Ressence features, like the oil-filled dial chamber and the compression lock system for the keyless works, creating what is arguably the brand’s most wearable and versatile watch to-date. The wearability starts with the new grade 5 titanium case, which is just 41 mm by 14 mm. While not a small watch, it’s the smallest Ressence to feature the brand’s proprietary locking system for the winding and setting mechanism, which to-date has only been available on the much larger 46 mm Type 5 dive watch. This endows the Type 7 with 50 m of water resistance, which means you can take the watch pretty much anywhere. This versatility is enhanced by the matching grade 5 titanium bracelet; a first for the bra...
Time+Tide
If you're going to make a watch battery-powered, might as well make it solar. These are some of the best solar quartz options out there.The post 10 of the best solar watches that shouldn’t run out of juice any time soon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The decision has been made, the dollars have been saved. Time to buy a new watch. Only issue is, where to do it in Melbourne?The post Time+Tide City Watch Buying Guide – Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the flagship high-tech analogue watches in Seiko’s catalogue, the Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph has been reworked to give it visual elements more typically associated with Seiko’s higher-end mechanical watches. Amongst other things, the new Astron GPS chronograph features a sapphire-covered bezel, diamond-milled chapter rings, and facetted case details. It still retains the multi-function 5X83 movement that features GPS time- and time zone setting, perpetual calendar, and a six month power reserve on a full charge. Initial thoughts Someone recently asked me to recommend a useful watch for a person who has no interest in mechanical timepieces, with the condition that the watch has to be analogue and not look like a gadget. The Astron GPS chronograph fits the bill. The model’s newest iterations, four in all, have the styling details of a mechanical watch while having a multitude of high-tech features. One of its most useful features is the GPS time setting, which means the watch syncs with a GPS satellite and then displays the local time zone when travelling. The black and blue dial versions are especially restrained and well suited as a low-key everyday watch, though still a little large at over 44 mm in diameter. Useful watchmaking When sunlight is detected, the Astron GPS chronograph syncs with a GPS satellite automatically up to twice a day, while manual syncing can be done via a pusher in the case. Sunlight also powers the watch – under the dial ...
Fratello
It is no secret to regular readers that I like the Zenith Defy line of watches. These are some of the very few integrated-bracelet sports watches with a clear identity. They do not take the design-first approach of, say, a Royal Oak, nor do they strive for elegance like a Laureato. Zenith, instead, pushes into […] Visit In Between Sizes? Spending Time With The Zenith Defy Skyline 36 to read the full article.
Fratello
I have spent plenty of time around the iconic Rolex Day-Date. Those watches, however, were all vintage or, at best, neo-vintage. My time spent with the current generation is limited, to put it mildly, so I felt it was about time I tried on a pair of thoroughly modern DDs in the contemporary 40mm size. […] Visit Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.
Deployant
Swatch celebrates Spring with their new Blossom Time, featuring light airy colours in stainless steel cases. Available in four colours.
Fratello
It’s no secret that I have a huge soft spot for Christopher Ward’s C65 Dune series. I own the first-generation C65 Dune GMT, and the C65 Dune Automatic models are easily among the best affordable daily wearers. It came as a bit of a surprise that the brand decided to update the Dune lineup with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic And GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Every year since 2020, to celebrate the month in which three close friends – Alain Marhic, Jérôme Mage and Joseph Châtel – founded March LA.B, a highly limited and “Millésimée” watch is revealed. This year, the AM2 Slim GMT Titanium “Millesime March 2025” Edition may be seen as a combination of styles and features of […]
Fratello
There are two ways to “handle” the peculiar watches in the picture - with a focus on the design or the specs. Both are impressive. The steel and rose-gold-PVD-treated models are available in a limited run of 100 pieces each. Because there’s an automatic Miyota 9075 “flyer” GMT movement inside their architecturally shaped cases, the […] Visit Let’s Start The Week Being “Brutally” Honest - I Love The Papar Anillo GMT to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Australian microbrand iterates on its eye-catching and popular everyday wearer, strengthening its value proposition.The post Third time’s the charm for Second Hour with the new Mandala Mk3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Windup Watch Fair visits Dallas for the first time this March, and we'd love to see you there.
Time+Tide
A new, whimsical take on Art Deco is hoping to excite and move watch enthusiasts.The post Gagà Laboratorio goes experimental with the new Labormatic collection with a quirky time display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
For those who travel the globe on a regular basis, a reliable wrist companion can be vital. Being able to check the time where you are and where you live at a glance makes things very easy when rushing to catch a flight or having to make an urgent phone call. To help in situations […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...
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