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Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Fratello
Fears Sep 25, 2024

Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour

Fears Watches is one of the small-brand success stories of this decade. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill revived his family’s brand with the Redcliff in 2016. Since 2020, the brand seems to have gone from strength to strength, and the new Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour shows this. This year the brand opened a boutique in its hometown […] Visit Introducing: The Colorful Charm Of The Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour to read the full article.

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The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498, the Ubiquitous and Robust Hand-Wound Calibre Monochrome
Sep 20, 2024

The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498, the Ubiquitous and Robust Hand-Wound Calibre

How do a pair of manually wound, time-only, pocket watch-sized, potentially outdated movements introduced in the 1950s earn a place in our series on significant calibres, alongside the well-known El Primero and Valjoux 7750 chronograph calibre and the omnipresent automatic ETA 2824 and 2892? Several factors contribute to their importance. Despite seeming unusual today, the […]

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Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS Sep 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Recreates 45GS with Calibre 9SA4

Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...

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Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 It’s Jul 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54

It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 to read the full article.

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Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Mr Chastaingt took Jul 11, 2024

Interview: Arnaud Chastaingt and His Vision for Chanel’s Watches

Now having been director of Chanel’s watch creation studio for almost a dozen years, Arnaud Chastaingt has shaped the brand’s line-up of timepieces and time-telling objects, imbuing them with a distinctive yet versatile style that is still recognisably Chanel. After a decade at Cartier, Mr Chastaingt took the helm of the design studio as Chanel was expanding and refining its watch division. Besides the scaling up of its longtime manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, where top-of-the-line movements like Calibre 1 are produced, Chanel also invested in Kenissi, the movement maker majority owned by Tudor. The brand’s investments in watchmaking have paid off, with its 2024 collection including the J12 Couture Workshop wristwatch powered by the in-house Calibre 6 that incorporates an automaton of Coco Chanel wielding a pair of scissors. While the engineering and mechanics are all located in Switzerland, Mr Chastaingt mandates the aesthetics from the brand’s headquarters in Paris, even designing the bridges of the in-house movements. He spoke to us about design, details, and why a brand like Chanel makes complicated watches for men. The interview was edited for clarity and length. A tiny ring watch modelled on a pin cushion set with pearls and diamonds. Image – Chanel SJX: I’ve seen the new collection and I’m impressed by the variety and design. The first question is, I see a comic-inspired theme with the character watches and the automaton, but these are serious mechan...

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Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm SJX Watches
Oris Streamlines Jun 19, 2024

Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm

Oris has tweaked its popular dive watch resulting in the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm. The latest creation from the Holstein-based manufacturer gently reworks the original design, including shrinking the case to 38 mm and removing the date window while retaining the in-house movement. The cleaner look is matched with a green dial with a gradient finish that fades from metallic green to black on the dial’s periphery. Initial thoughts The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris’ bestseller and has been an experimental playground for the brand to iterate case sizes, materials, and dial colours, including a steel-and-bronze version Chinese watch magazine Ctime. The new 38 mm version illustrates this. Although it doesn’t look strikingly different from its predecessors at first glance, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the culmination the progressive development of the model. It combines the in-house Calibre 400 and 38 mm case size, along with the removal of the date window that watch enthusiasts will applaud. The green sunburst dial pops While the vintage-inspired aesthetic is somewhat generic (and green a common colour for dive watches), the new Divers Sixty-Five is a decent value proposition at US$3,900, especially considering the in-house automatic movement with an unusually long five-day power reserve. Vivid green Unlike past 38 mm models that were equipped with Sellita movements, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the first 38 mm model in the line to feature the brand’s proprietary ...

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San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup Worn & Wound
May 1, 2024

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup

If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ve been to one of our Windup Watch Fairs in San Francisco, Chicago, or New York City. In the nine years we’ve brought together enthusiasts and brands across the country, it’s been incredible to hear the different stories of how people have come to Worn & Wound and all the reasons they’ve stayed. If you’re a long-time-reader-none-time-attendee lamenting, “I’ve never been to a fair like this before…” – trust us, neither have we. 2024 is going to be a brand new year for the Windup Watch Fair. With over 30 first-time watch and EDC brands as well as many familiar favorites, everyone is in for a treat as we descend on the Fort Mason Gateway Pavilion later this week for the Windup Watch Fair. Maybe it’s our refreshed mission for the year, to include even more enthusiasts under the Worn & Wound umbrella, catalyzing the new EDC Expo with Carryology. Maybe it’s the new venue, the historic (literally) building in the arts and cultural hub along the San Francisco Bay. Maybe it’s the over 90 watches and gear brands coming this year. Ok, a big part of it is the brands. All of these different pieces make this year an all-together new Windup for everyone. If you’re in the Bay Area this weekend, we have two words for you: get here! Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94123 Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open ...

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Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth Time+Tide
IWC Watches Apr 12, 2024

Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth

There are 54 brands displaying at Watches & Wonders this year, and each of them has designed and built a custom booth, all trying to communicate their values and key releases in the most memorable way possible. IWC has never disappointed in the past, always creating evocative spaces, and this year is no different. Occupying … ContinuedThe post Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre SJX Watches
Citizen Marks Centenary Mar 18, 2024

Citizen Marks Centenary with Pocket Watch and New Calibre

Twenty twenty-four marks the 100th anniversary of the first-ever Citizen watch – a pocket watch powered by the hand-wound cal. 16. To celebrate the centenary, Citizen looks towards the next century with an all-new calibre making its debut in the 100th Anniversary of the First Citizen Watch Special Limited Edition, a pocket watch with a pleasing vintage aesthetic but one that’s entirely modern in materials and manufacturing. Initial thoughts Pocket watches are uncommon today, which is perhaps why they are difficult to get right in terms of look and feel. Contemporary pocket watches often try to replicate the look and feel of their vintage counterparts, but usually end up seeming artificial and lacking in authenticity. As a result, the Citizen anniversary pocket watch is certainly an interesting proposition.  The Citizen cal. 0270 At first sight, the watch is convincingly vintage in appearance. It is evidently carefully designed, with classical styling on both sides and well-chosen details in the movement, which lends it a genuine sense of timelessness. The dial design is evocative of railway pocket watches (which Citizen did supply to Japanese railway companies), while the movement has the elegant bridges and proportions characteristics of old-school calibres. But on closer examination, many details in the dial and case reveal themselves to be modern, like the fact that the case is titanium or the balance wheel has Gyromax-style regulating weights. Even the seemingly a...

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Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris I Actually Buy After Nov 17, 2023

Why The ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser May Be The First Oris I Actually Buy

After years of tiptoeing around it and covering releases from Oris, I have to say that the recently announced Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Laser may be the watch that conquers me. Back when Oris announced the original Pro Pilot X, I found the design compelling but at the same time, a little too industrial-looking for me. I say that even as someone who is affectionately drawn to aviation themes, which Oris does very well. But now, Oris just had to add frickin’ lasers to the equation, pulling me closer to the ProPilot X.

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The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Oct 5, 2023

The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic

Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. The post The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Oct 4, 2023

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party

Last Thursday, despite the torrential downpour, a hearty group of brave souls answered the call and entered the arena to celebrate the release of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. This launch was the follow-up entrant to the original Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition, affectionately referred to as the “Saved by the Bell” watch. This night also invoked some serious 90s nostalgia by taking over Area 53 in DUMBO, Brooklyn and flooding the venue with blacklight and filling it with watch enthusiasts ready to wage a series of laser tagging wars.  While guests awaited their time on the battlefield, they were presented a plethora of activities to interact with. From air hockey to arcade games, from foosball to classic birthday party sheet cakes-there was a full complement of to-dos. At the center of all the action were each of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination-in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different visual experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. The Limited Editions come in two team colors: Team Ultraviolet vs. Team Infrared. Our spirits partner, Superbird, took this to heart coming with two team-themed cocktails. The firs...

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Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Sep 28, 2023

Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions

Fueled by nostalgia for the 90s, with a touch of 80s too, the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tags are a spiritual follow-up to our highly sought-after collaboration from 2021. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination – in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. Two watches unlike any you’ve encountered before, the only question is, which side will you choose, Ultraviolet or Infrared? The post Introducing the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… Time+Tide
Patek Philippe ever introduce Jul 30, 2023

We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts…

Will Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, … ContinuedThe post We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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