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Monochrome
What you see is quite literally what you get with this new Samurai by Seiko. Born as the more edgy, contemporary counterpart to Seiko’s many heritage-inspired dive watches, the Samurai was introduced in 2004 and redesigned completely in 2024. Now, a year onward from the burgundy and black models that introduced us to a smaller […]
Fratello
We’ve visited with Armin Strom since the Baselworld days. Indeed, the brand was founded in 2009 by Serge Michel and Claude Greisler in Biel, Switzerland. This makes the company, comparatively speaking, one of the “old guard” in haute horlogerie. Admittedly, my interest in this style of open-worked watch has only recently begun, and I now […] Visit A Closer Look At The Latest Releases From Armin Strom to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Known for its quirky pixelated dials and brutalist die-cast cases, Kollokium has introduced the Projekt 01 Variant F, which takes the brand’s signature dial and elevates it with hundreds of individual Lichtblock lume elements. The violet lume elements feature various sizes and heights, and are clustered around the even-numbered hour markers to provide a degree of legibility. It’s a striking look, especially when the lights go out and the lume can truly shine. Founded in 2020 by Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium has released a total of six models since inception. All models to-date have used roughly the same 40 mm die-cast steel case and the same basic design concept. The Variant F is a limited edition of 399 pieces and will be available directly from Kollokium and its authorised dealers in June 2025. Initial thoughts After years collecting watches, it’s easy to feel like every new watch is a remake of something else, because for many brands, especially towards the lower end of the price spectrum, that tends to be true. So it’s refreshing when a new brand like Kollokium manages to create a recognisable and distinctive aesthetic from day 1. The Variant F features the same 40 mm die-cast steel case as previous Kollokium models, but the water resistance has been increased from 30 m to 50 m. To clear the taller hand stack, the box-shaped crystal is also a bit higher, adding about a millimeter to the overall height, which is now 11.95 mm. The choice...
Hodinkee
We meet the cast of characters behind the New York and Miami-based watch selling collective.
Worn & Wound
On Thursday, May 29th, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom in Brooklyn played host to a lively evening that brought the sun-soaked spirit of Marseille straight to New York City. The occasion? A special event with Jacques Bianchi Marseille, celebrating the brand’s official entry into the U.S. market and offering local enthusiasts an exclusive first look at their newest release. Since opening its doors earlier in December of last year within Worn & Wound’s Brooklyn headquarters, the Windup Watch Shop Showroom has become a go-to gathering place for collectors and brands alike. The Jacques Bianchi event was a shining example of what the space is all about: passionate people, hands-on hard-to-find horology, and a strong sense of community. Founded by veteran French watchmaker Jacques Bianchi in the early 1980s, the brand first gained attention with its JB200, a no-nonsense dive watch built for professionals-including members of the French Navy. With its signature silhouette and dial featuring a swimmer motif, the JB200 quickly earned a cult following among those who value both function and flair. Though the brand remained relatively under the radar for decades, its recent revival has reignited global interest, especially among fans of vintage-inspired tool watches with true military provenance. That history was front and center at the event with a full timeline installation, as members of the Jacques Bianchi team shared insight into the brand’s origins, its connection to Med...
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SJX Watches
Seiko has introduced a new addition to its line of affordable dress watches, the Presage Craftsmanship “Unglazed Arita Porcelain” ref. SPB497. This limited edition retains the accessible pricing the Presage is known for, but is more than just affordable. Unlike previous models with glossy porcelain dials, this has a matte texture that enhances the rhombus patterned surface, traditionally a symbol of prosperity and health in Japan. Initial Thoughts When Seiko launched the first enamel-dialed Presage in 2013, it was an incredible value. In the years since, Seiko has expanded the range with more ambitious designs, and other materials such as Arita porcelain and Urushi lacquer, though the dial decoration techniques employed are uniformly traditional and Japanese. While the Presage models are still accessibly priced, this new model is US$1,850. The price tag is no longer the most compelling aspect but the dials themselves are still interesting in themselves. Unglazed porcelain dials are already almost non-existent, and the diamond pattern makes it even more interesting. Supporting traditional craft arts is also admirable, and has seen great success in the Swiss watch industry, albeit at a much higher price point. The new model employs the familiar Presage case, which is on the large side for a simple, dress watch, and the 27 mm diameter movement could easily fit into a smaller case. However, since a larger case also means a larger dial, it can be forgiven. Unglazed Dial Ari...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watches from big, corporate owned brands, it’s sometimes hard these days to find designs that feel fresh and inventive. This just the way of the watch world. Particularly in an environment where it might be difficult to sell a watch (Swiss exports are down, tariff threats loom, etc) you can forgive the biggest brands for playing it safe, putting products on the market that they know will sell to their core customers. They might not be the most creative watches ever devised, but if they exhibit a “first, do no harm” mentality, that’s probably a win in the eyes of many brands. One of the things I’ve always appreciated about Rado is that it feels like they’ve been given a longer leash, and the opportunity to fully embrace what makes them unique among Swatch Group brands. Rado is, at their core, about materials, and they lead with design. Sure, the Captain Cook is a staple, and there are other watches in the Rado catalog that have a hint of the generic, but when I think about the brand, the watches that come to mind feature colorful ceramic and interesting shapes. The Anatom has been a favorite of mine since Rado reissued it a few years ago. It’s an 80s cult favorite, and the modern reinterpretation holds up remarkably well and offers a unique spin on the integrated bracelet sports watch trend. Rado has just announced a trio of new Anatoms in bright colors that should appeal to enthusiasts who might be after something colorful and a bit whims...
Teddy Baldassarre
Before I get into this review of the Sinn 104 St Sa I white-dial watch, I wanted to offer some of my thoughts and provide some context about the brand. Now, if you know me, you know I’m a longtime fan of Germany’s Sinn and its iconoclastic range of tool watches. all of which have that extra little bit of over-engineered oomph when compared to many of their rugged peers. Come to think of it, these watches actually have no peers, given their unique solutions to problems facing watches that actually experience adverse conditions. Sinn History & Context Founded in 1961 in Frankfurt by ex-military pilot Helmut Sinn, the brand's cultish popularity stems from its technical innovations, which include the so-called "Submarine" steel, developed for the modern German Navy and found in many Sinn dive watches. Submarine steel possesses a mechanical strength more than one and a half times that of normal steel, and additionally, it's highly resistant to magnetism, cracking, and corrosion. In fact, Sinn claims the alloy is completely resistant to prolonged exposure to salt water, something that few stainless-steel formulations can claim. Sinn also employs an additional technology for hardening both stainless steel and titanium surfaces under the Tegiment name. This treatment increases both hardness and scratch resistance even further, making for a practically bombproof finish. The caseback of the Sinn U15 Sinn also goes above and beyond when it comes to handling pressure. For its p...
Hodinkee
The nine-time winner at Le Mans and long-standing Rolex Testimonee is profiled in advance of this year's race at Le Mans.
Monochrome
Kollokium, the unconventional design collective founded in 2020 by three friends, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi (The Horophile), looks to defy traditional watchmaking norms. Rethinking the way to approach watchmaking and especially branding, this is, in fact, not a brand but rather a platform free from constraint. The latest release, the Projekt 01 […]
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Worn & Wound
Vintage watches remain ever popular in the watch collector’s journey. There are serious collectors who remain focused on buying only vintage. Since the pandemic, my inbox has been flooded with auction houses and vintage dealers trying to one-up each other by selling the most curated “once in a lifetime” or most expensive vintage piece. I have nothing against the sellers and buyers, especially if they can vouch for the authenticity and pay for the repairs, they deserve my appreciation. Personally, I am apprehensive of owning vintage watches at my current point of collecting. I owned a few vintage watches in my early days as a collector, most of them were bargain finds on eBay that eventually stopped working or I ended up trading, except for one expensive Rolex Datejust that had to be serviced. Ultimately, service on the Datejust was as expensive as the watch, including Rolex replacing the dial to a different color which I hated and ended up selling for a loss. I know it was a rookie mistake, but that was the end of vintage watches for me. After that experience, I stuck to buying either new watches from retailers or pre-owned watches from other collectors. As it happened, my work took me to Germany often, and there I discovered a whole new world of neo-vintage watches. Before I get deeper into what specific “affordable” neo-vintage watches a couple of my collector friends and I recommend, I should briefly define what neo-vintage watches are and why they are easier ...
Monochrome
The Lady Serenade and PanoMatic Luna are Glashütte Original’s mechanical watch collections for women. While the PanoMatic Luna is essentially a smaller version of the men’s model, the Lady Serenade collection was conceived as a ladies’ watch from the start. Last year, the Lady Serenade was given a moonlight serenade with the incorporation of a moon phase display and […]
Monochrome
MeisterSinger is famous for its portfolio of single-handed watches, and the latest 24H Enamel Edition is no exception, but a white enamel dial, single revolution every 24 hours and the ability to moonlight as a compass helps it really stand out. The philosophy of the brand is to slow down a bit and appreciate time […]
Fratello
Alpina dropped two unassuming and atypically subtle watches during this year’s Watches and Wonders. So unassuming, in fact, that they got drowned out by all of the noise made by other manufacturers. Luckily, we had Fratello’s Mike with a keen eye for vintage spotting the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof. The two watches impressed him, so I […] Visit Delightfully Faithful - Hands-On With The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s hard to believe that the Glashütte Original SeaQ debuted back in 2019 as part of the Spezialist collection. The watches were added to the permanent catalog, honoring the brand’s Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 from 1969. Since the initial release, new dial colors and materials have been added. For the smallest offering in the […] Visit Taking A Fresh Look At The 39.5mm Glashütte Original SeaQ to read the full article.
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Fratello
ArtyA is one of those brands I’ve had on my radar for a while, but nothing ever quite spoke to me. The designs were bold, sure, but often felt more provocative than purposeful. Pieces like the Son of a Gun and Burning Spider always left a lot to be desired in my mind. I’ve never […] Visit ArtyA Drops The New Luminity Wavy Micro-Rotor to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When considering the most versatile watch brands in terms of both global reach and variety within their own brand portfolio, it’s difficult to identify a brand that surpasses Seiko. In 1881, a young entrepreneur by the name of Kintaro Hattorri (pictured below), opened up a shop in Tokyo's Ginza where he sold and repaired watches and clocks. At just 21 years old, Hattori took a massive risk in hopes of creating something bigger. These hopes were realized in the coming century as the watch brand he created established numerous watchmaking milestones and eventually changed the course of the entire watch industry with the release of the legendary Astron, the world's first quartz wristwatch, in 1969. In more recent years Seiko has established itself as one of the most beloved brands on the market, offering a wide range of styles from dressy to sporty to space-age high-tech and all for what most would consider very accessible prices. In this blog, we dive into the wide world of Seiko watches, naming our favorites from the brand's major families, in hopes of providing a jumping-off point for your own research into a potential next purchase. Some Ground Rules Given the number of watches that could be included, we will need to draw the line somewhere, so don’t be concerned if one of your favorite Seiko models is not on the list. We will focus primarily on regular-production models, not limited editions that may be unavailable before too long. We've envision...
Worn & Wound
Despite what a look into my watch collection might imply, I don’t put a huge amount of stock into the concept of seasonal watches. Broadly speaking, most watches can easily be worn any day of the year, and in any reasonable conditions one might encounter. Still, I’m not so blind as to ignore that some watches have a definite “vibe,” and for proof of that, you don’t have to look further than the new Deep Diver from Girard-Perregaux. The Deep Diver, which Girard-Perregaux has recently relaunched in collaboration with Bamford Watches, is the latest in GP’s line of vintage revival models - or “Legacy Editions” - and follows up on the somewhat surprising success of the Casquette. Now, vintage reissues are nothing new these days, but unlike some peers, Girard-Perregaux has been cautious in diving into its back catalogue. The result of this restraint is that GP’s Legacy Editions are reliably strong releases, with each feeling like a rare treat rather than a checked box or tired contrivance. The original Deep Diver was released in 1969, but continued to evolve for a few years before being phased out of the GP lineup in the late ‘70s. The new Deep Diver specifically draws on the ref. 9108 as it existed in the mid-‘70s. The Deep Diver has always been a vintage model I’ve had my eye on (I vividly remember bidding on one on eBay when I was in college, only to get blown out of the auction at the last minute by someone who clearly knew what they wanted), but...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...
Time+Tide
Tom gets psychological on us, explaining the paradox of choice and how it applies to watch collecting.The post We need to talk about the size of your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
We covered the introduction of Gagà Laboratorio back in August of last year, and have remained curious about how this new independent brand with Italian roots would evolve. Their first models, the Labormatic Bauhaus and Labormatic Cinquanta, paired a highly considered case design defined by dramatically flared lugs with a creative timetelling format that riffs heavily on the classic jump hour. Each watch represented the flipside of the same coin: the Bauhaus subtle and minimal, the Cinquanta more light and colorful. The brand’s latest releases are a new pair of Labormatics that follow a similar theme. First up, the Labormatic Champagne. This watch was conceived as something of a counterpoint to the minimalist design ethos of the Bauhaus model. The Champagne, as the name of the watch implies, is celebratory where the Bauhaus is subdued, trading clean and cold grays for vibrant gold tones, including deeply textured dial base. On this reference, as with the Bauhaus, time is told via a digital hours window at the 12:00 position and an analog minute display. Gagà Laboratorio has also introduced the Labormatic Azzuro, which can be understood as a complement to last year’s Cinquanta. Both watches are inspired by Italian design from the 1950s, which was a notably colorful period following the tumult of World War II. The pastel blue tones seen here look great with the rich, wine red chosen for the stylized Arabic numerals in the hour and minute tracks. Once again, the hou...
Monochrome
Yesterday was the final of the 2025 French Open, also known as Roland Garros. And I have to be honest, it was an incredible game between two young, talented athletes. On one side was Italian player Jannik Sinner, ranked number one in the ATP, facing Spanish player Carlos Alcaraz, ranked number two in the world. […]
Monochrome
Frederique Constant has partnered with British brand/carmaker Austin-Healey since 2004 and releases a Vintage Rally Healey model every two years, based on the legendary collaboration between the Austin Motor Company and driver/designer Donald Healey. For 2025, the watchmaker decided that three distinctive models were needed to really capture the spirit of the racecar legend. The […]
Fratello
For those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, summer is just around the corner, so it’s time to start thinking about your daily watch for the coming months. While switching up straps is an easy way of changing the looks of your watch, more and more brands have started catering to those who want a […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorful Rado Anatom Automatic Summer Series to read the full article.
Monochrome
More than forty years after it was first noticed for its daring design and futuristic materials, the Rado Anatom is again in the spotlight. Initially launched in 1983, the Anatom offered a technical and aesthetic innovation, yet was succeeded by other geometrically shaped collections. The brand relaunched the Anatom in 2023 to celebrate the 40th […]
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