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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range Worn & Wound
Seiko Has Announced Nov 16, 2023

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range

While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide.  The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...

Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal Oct 31, 2023

Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph

Last year, Zenith announced a partnership with football player Aaron Rodgers at an event in Green Bay, WI, home of the Packers. That season would be Rodgers’ 18th and final year with the team. Zenith would stick by Rodgers through his move to the New York Jets (coincidentally, the team we saw the Packers lose to during the announcement event, which you can read about right here) and a subsequent week 1 injury that would sideline the decorated QB for much of the season (just ho long remains to be seen). We had the opportunity to once again speak with Rodgers and Zenith CEO Julien Tornare this week in New York to see the first horological collaboration between the two: a green on green Chronomaster Sport.  The watch uses the hugely popular 41mm Chronomaster Sport platform that we’ve seen rendered in a variety of materials and colorways, though it’s presented here in a manner we’ve never quite seen before. The ceramic bezel is a deep green with the dial following suit, creating a uniform appearance that places gray toned sub dials at the center, changing the relationship between the two. Historically, the trio of overlapping, and oftentimes tri-color sub dials serve as the focal point of the design, and are instantly recognizable as a Zenith hallmark. Here, the sub dials each get a slightly different gray tone, but very much take a back seat to the color surrounding them. The green isn’t the only thing immediately different about this limited edition, however. The ...

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Oct 4, 2023

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party

Last Thursday, despite the torrential downpour, a hearty group of brave souls answered the call and entered the arena to celebrate the release of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. This launch was the follow-up entrant to the original Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition, affectionately referred to as the “Saved by the Bell” watch. This night also invoked some serious 90s nostalgia by taking over Area 53 in DUMBO, Brooklyn and flooding the venue with blacklight and filling it with watch enthusiasts ready to wage a series of laser tagging wars.  While guests awaited their time on the battlefield, they were presented a plethora of activities to interact with. From air hockey to arcade games, from foosball to classic birthday party sheet cakes-there was a full complement of to-dos. At the center of all the action were each of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination-in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different visual experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. The Limited Editions come in two team colors: Team Ultraviolet vs. Team Infrared. Our spirits partner, Superbird, took this to heart coming with two team-themed cocktails. The firs...

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Shinola Aug 31, 2023

[VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design

Join us in celebrating a major milestone in design and American manufacturing-10 years of Shinola Detroit. To commemorate this landmark year, Shinola has created a new video that presents the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This anthemic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Click here to experience Timeless American Design by Shinola.  Don’t forget to check out a specially curated selection of Shinola’s watches and fine goods at Windup Watch Fair NYC on October 20-22 at The Altman Building, located at 135 W 18th St, New York, NY. The post [VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Review: Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” SJX Watches
Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos Aug 15, 2023

Review: Tudor Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...

Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection Quill & Pad
Aug 14, 2023

Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection

Lang 1943 is not a homage, it stands its own ground and can best be summarized as a beautiful tool. The first thing that the team at Lang 1943 got right was the proportions. A diameter of 39mm is spot on, particularly when the thickness is just 8.40 mm. This results in a timepiece that is comfortable to wear, large enough to be easy to read, but not overly bulky that it hinders movements.

8-Bit Nostalgia - Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Ming you were Aug 3, 2023

8-Bit Nostalgia - Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition

If you were to stop and think of an iconic video game from your childhood, assuming you were an early millennial, one of a handful of characters or series might first come to mind. Mario, Sonic, Mortal Kombat, etc. While making a watch inspired by any of those major franchises would certainly draw a dedicated customer base, it wouldn’t be a surprising thing to do. This is why I got very excited when I learned that AVI-8 was collaborating with Capcom to create a watch inspired by 1942. 1942 was first released, apparently, in 1984. I too was released that year, but I only played it for the first time, as memory serves, in an arcade at a hotel I was staying at with my family. I was likely five or six. I played it for what felt like hours, though given that I was spending my parent’s quarters, it was likely a lot less. Regardless, I was obsessed. I had dreams about it, neigh, nightmares. I later discovered I could rent it for my Nintendo at the local video store (feeling old yet?) and the obsession continued. You see, unlike the typical side-scrolling platform games of the day, which I wasn’t very good at, 1942 was a vertical-scrolling shooter. Your fighter plane was always firing, and you swayed left and right to avoid incoming ammunition. There were powerups, big bosses, levels with ships, and other stuff that I just found epically exciting at the time. It was a fun game. But, what it lacked was a central character. An iconic central figure to idolize, save a little an...

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD & Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”

Having signed on as a sponsor of America’s Cup contender Alinghi last year, Tudor now reveals a pair of watches created especially for the sailing team. The Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition” both feature a carbon composite case – a first for Tudor – along with the functional design derived from the military-issue FXD dive watch. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor – its products are amongst the best value propositions across the entire industry – but its offerings have historically been limited in terms of design. In recent years the brand has gotten bolder in both styling and materials – the new pair demonstrate this. And if anything, they are probably the first of many more adventurous products from Tudor, something that is a natural evolution of the brand given the capacity of its big new manufacture. Although both stick to the design established by the original Pelagos FXD, they make it more interesting in terms of colour and a lot more interesting in terms of materials with the carbon composite case. The use of the lightweight composite will give both of them a featherweight presence on the wrist, despite the large case diameters of each. Despite the novelty in terms of materials, the new Pelagos FXD models remain squarely in Tudor’s favourite price segment. The time-only FXD costs a bit under US$3,700 while the chronograph is a little over US$5,000, making both strong value p...

Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats Time+Tide
Hamilton Jun 29, 2023

Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats

“We’re very lucky,” IWC CEO Chris-Grainger Herr modestly admits, when it comes to the brand’s stable of ambassadors and friends of the brand. The Schaffhausen brand has enjoyed a long relationship with two legendary sportsmen in the form of Lewis Hamilton and, until recently, Tom Brady. What’s interesting though, is how IWC now seem to … ContinuedThe post Sam Kerr joins IWC to continue the brand’s tradition of sporting greats appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made with the Patrouille de France is a BR 03-92 with a Bright Blue Dial Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made Jun 16, 2023

Bell & Ross Latest Watch Made with the Patrouille de France is a BR 03-92 with a Bright Blue Dial

The latest from Bell & Ross is a new entry in their ongoing partnership and collaboration with the Patrouille de France, an aerobatic display team that’s part of the French Air and Space Force. The team was founded in 1953, making this year their 70th in operation, which naturally calls for a special limited edition watch. We’ve brought you news of Bell & Ross releases that highlight their relationship with the Patrouille de France in each of the last two years, and the new watch is very much in the same vein as the previous efforts, drawing inspiration from the bright blue planes the team is known for flying. Where previous limited editions were based on watches with a somewhat niche appeal (a chronograph and an ana-digi piece) the new watch is built on BR 03-92 platform, the signature, and simplest, Bell & Ross pilot’s watch, which displays just the time and date in the brand’s signature square case.  The BR 03-92 Patrouille de France 70th Anniversary limited edition is, above all, a tribute to the actual planes used by the flight team over the years. We’ll get to the dial momentarily, but what makes this limited edition special is what’s on the caseback. Flip the watch over and you’ll find a detailed engraving of the five aircraft that have been flown by the Patrouille de France since 1953: the Thunderjet, the Alphajet, the Ouragan, the Mystère IV, and the Fouga Magister. The engraving is actually quite detailed and full of information. It shows an image...

Father’s Day Summertime Gift Guide with Shinola Worn & Wound
Shinola Jun 15, 2023

Father’s Day Summertime Gift Guide with Shinola

Each and everyday here at Worn & Wound, we’re on the hunt for interesting watches and useful gear. We recently came across some products that fit this bill from the folks at Shinola. Together they seemed to create an ideal solution for a summer-themed list of Father’s Day gifts. Fortunately, we were able to pick up a selection of our favorites from their Tribeca Store here in New York City. Our team was impressed with the quality imbued in each of these items, hope you are too.  If you’re anything like us, you have a wide variety of watches that range in size from dainty to behemoth. Even though this travel watch is called the Shinola Monster GMT, it hits that sweet spot of 40mm that seems to fit nearly any wrist, making it a that ideal giftable size. With a sapphire exhibition case back revealing the Sellita SW330-2 automatic movement inside, an easy-to-use push button quick release stainless steel bracelet, and an alternative woven strap made from recycled ocean plastic, you won’t even need to include a strap changing tool in your gift bag.  LEARN MORE The post Father’s Day Summertime Gift Guide with Shinola appeared first on Worn & Wound.

We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… Time+Tide
Jun 12, 2023

We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter…

Confucius once said, “Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life”. I think I can safely speak for all of us here when I say this is the best part of being a member of the T+T team. We all love watches, watch culture, and presenting … ContinuedThe post We just reached 100K subs on YouTube! So we’re celebrating with a 5 WATCH GIVEAWAY. Here is how to enter… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 12, 2023

Patek Philippe Introduces the Rare Handcrafts Tokyo 2023

True to form, Patek Philippe has debuted more than a dozen new timepieces from its Rare Handcrafts collection at the brand’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. Reserved exclusively for the Japanese market, the new collection includes dome clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches. Featuring traditional Japanese motifs, the new releases reflect Patek Philippe’s expertise in a range of precious crafts and techniques, including marquetry, guilloché, and various forms of enamelling including Grand Feu cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, and grisaille enamel.  The event is taking place at the Sankaku Hiroba expo centre in Shinjuku and runs from now until June 25, 2023. Admission is free and no registration is required to attend. Detail of the ref. 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji” pocket watch Dome clocks and table clocks When it comes to Patek’s Rare Handcrafts, nothing serves as a better backdrop for an artist’s skills than the brand’s iconic dome clocks. Measuring 213.5 mm tall and 128 mm in diameter, each clock is powered by the mechanical cal. 17’’’ PEND, which is conveniently rewound by an electric motor. While I often find that miniature paintings on wristwatch dials can look cramped at such a small scale, the large panels of a dome clock provide ample space for more dynamic compositions. Case in point is the Dome Clock ref. 20137M-001 “Hanami”, which uses Grand Feu cloisonné enamel to depict the Japanese custom of appreciatin...

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options Time+Tide
Porsche Design s new Chronograph 718 Jun 10, 2023

When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options

As the famous slogan goes, “Porsche…there is no substitute”. A young Tom Cruise knew it after outrunning the bad guy with his father’s 928 in 1983’s Risky Business, and the legend rings true more than ever today. In celebration of the introduction of the new 718 Spyder RS, Porsche Design has made an introduction of … ContinuedThe post When it comes to Porsche Design’s new Chronograph 718 Spyder RS, you have options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris Celebrates their Anniversary with the Latest Hölstein Edition Release: An Aquis with a Bold Purple Dial Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates their Anniversary Jun 2, 2023

Oris Celebrates their Anniversary with the Latest Hölstein Edition Release: An Aquis with a Bold Purple Dial

Every year, Oris releases a limited edition watch on June 1 to celebrate their birthday. These Hölstein Editions run the gamut: last year’s was a somewhat wild blast from the past, and the year before saw a sober but very attractive rendition of their popular Big Crown Pointer Date. This year, Oris is tackling the Aquis, which makes its Hölstein Edition debut. As you’d expect, being an anniversary edition, there are a handful of twists that separate this Aquis from others in the collection.  First, the obvious. This dial is purple, folks. I feel like I’ve been banging the purple drum for a long time. We’ve clearly reached a point, probably months ago, where this is the color of the moment. A look back at new releases over the last year or so reveals plenty of evidence that we’re in the midst of peak purple, and that’s totally fine by me, especially as we enter the summer months. But this is the first time I can recall seeing a purple dial from Oris, and it looks great on the Aquis. This is a platform that plays particularly well with color – the deep red (and diamond set) Aquis remains a Watches & Wonders favorite.  The purple theme is extended to the caseback, where instead of a typical exhibition window, we get a full color Oris bear, wearing his diving gear, against a bright purple background. You’ll also find the limited edition number as well as a “Hölstein Edition” designation on the caseback. Like the ProPilot X Kermit Edition released a few...

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile” SJX Watches
Raketa May 18, 2023

Raketa Introduces Avant-Garde “The Horophile”

A Soviet-era watchmaker, Raketa has been rejuvenated by investors and a team advised by Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Romain Jerome. The brand has brought back designs from its archives, while also producing new models inspired by its past. Falling squarely into the latter category, the Avant-Garde “The Horophile” takes it cues from Communist art while the palette comes courtesy of Amr Sindi, the Swiss-based watch influencer known as The Horophile. Initial thoughts In a relatively short time Raketa has managed to create a distinctive identity with its unique aesthetic. Precisely because of their Soviet-era style, many of the brand’s watches might seem drab. The new Avant-Garde, in contrast, stands out with its bright colours. It will certainly appeal to someone who appreciates the Raketa design but wants something more lively. Price-wise the Horophile edition is no different from the standard model. At €1,650 before taxes, the watch is reasonably priced, although Raketa movements generally could do with a bit more window dressing, even at the price. The purple rotor in the Horophile edition goes some way in improving the view from the back. Bolshevik art The dial of the Avant-Garde is inspired by Beat the Whites with the Red Wedge, one of the best-known works by artist El Lissitzky, one of the proponents of the Russian avant-garde movement that flourished from the late 19th- t0 early-20th centuries. A 1919 propaganda poster, the work shows a red wedge ...

Maurice de Mauriac Celebrates an Insane Drive to the Tip of the Europe with a Special Chronograph Worn & Wound
Casio n.  If you’re from May 3, 2023

Maurice de Mauriac Celebrates an Insane Drive to the Tip of the Europe with a Special Chronograph

Zurich based brand Maurice de Mauriac has added a new watch to their Chrono Modern collection inspired by their participation in the grueling North Cape Expedition. The 11 day expedition took a team to the northernmost point on the European continent, the tip of Norway, across the 71st parallel and into the Arctic circle. The task was undertaken by the Alpineracer team in a BMW E30 (with a Genesis GV70 coming along as a support vehicle), and Maurice de Mauriac created a special version of their toughest chronograph to mark the occasion.  If you’re from a part of the world where there is significant snowfall in the winter, and you happen to also sometimes need to drive a car in those conditions, you know that even a few minutes on icey, snow covered roads in freezing weather can be anything from a nuisance to absolutely terrifying. It’s certainly not something I look forward to, and generally try to avoid when I have the opportunity to do so. Now imagine driving into increasingly more difficult and dangerous conditions for over a week. According to Maurice de Mauriac, the Alpineracer team experienced the requisite challenges with weather (hail, snow, and freezing rain, to start) and a handful of mechanical issues with the car, but ultimately they made it, and the photos that came out of the trip that you can see here are truly breathtaking. For participants (in both body and spirit) a watch connected to the journey feels like a fitting memento.  The Chrono Modern Nort...

Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2023

Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience

Look, Tim Cook (or Tim Apple, for the less informed) is CEO of a 2.6 trillion dollar tech juggernaut, so he can wear any watch he wants. Being an old-school company man, he’s a great cheerleader for the brand, and of course, rocks the useful and highly capable Apple Watch. A photo recently appeared on … ContinuedThe post Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Photographer’s Favorite Watches From Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Apr 18, 2023

A Photographer’s Favorite Watches From Watches & Wonders

Hello, it’s me, Kat Shoulders, your friendly neighborhood photographer. As the Media Production Manager here at Worn & Wound, I tend to be more behind the scenes, but I have a goal this year to be a little more active with the editorial team as much as I can. I was honored to get to join the team this year at Watches & Wonders and had a freaking blast at my first show. I’ll admit it was a bit overwhelming at first, but by the time I was boarding my flight back to the states I really did not want to come back home. Being in Geneva felt like I was in the center of the watch world. Where it was ok to flaunt and talk about your watches as much as you wanted to or walk up to someone and ask what watch they were wearing.  It was truly an experience that has put me on a bit of a high since I left and I find myself a bit more engaged in the watch release world again. It’s tough working in this industry sometimes – you get a bit jaded when it comes to new watches. Watches & Wonders really lifted my WIS spirits and it was lovely to get behind the camera to shoot many of the novelties at the show. I shot more watches than I can recall at Watches & Wonders but I had a few standouts that I’d like to give some special attention to. These are pieces that for some reason or another just really stood out to me and gave me all those warm fuzzy feelings inside. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds The new JLC Reverso Tribute Chrono was certainly a favorite among many...

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Apr 9, 2023

A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox

TAG Heuer introduced a facelifted Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon with new box-dome crystal Colours are inspired by the piece’s racing heritage and fit into the new Chronograph 42mm line-up as well New and reduced 42mm size for a Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon As part of the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera model, TAG Heuer is launching … ContinuedThe post A new, sleeker TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition Time+Tide
Apr 7, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition

As you all know very well, it was all about Watches & Wonders last week. The team, both live on the ground and back at HQ, were working round the clock to bring you all the latest and greatest from the fair. It was an experience that was incredibly exhausting, but also incredibly rewarding.   … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Watches & Wonders 2023 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Rolls Royce Phantom II” Apr 1, 2023

Highlights: Artisanal Timepieces at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Having covered the notable from independent watchmaking and complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction on April 5, we turn to timepieces that are all about artisanal crafts, ranging from cloisonné and marquetry. Amongst the highlight is a Patek Philippe Dome Clock depicting the African savannah in cloisonné and another is the Cartier Tortue ref. 2496 with the jeweller’s signature panther motif. Important Watches I takes place on April 5, 2023. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2101: Cartier Tortue LM Panthere This wristwatch two enduring elements of Cartier design, a form case and the panther motif. It’s a large-size Tortue – French for “turtle” – with a panther on the dial in champleve enamel. The large variant of the Tortue (instead of the oversized “XL”), this measures 34 mm in diameter, giving the dial ample real estate for the panther. The panther’s visage is executed in champlevé, where the dial base is first engraved with the motif before being painted and fired. This is powered by the cal. 430 MC, an ultra-thin manual mechanical movement that is actually the Piaget cal. 430P. Accompanied by its box and papers, this has an estimate of HK$200,000-300,000, or about US$25,000-38,200. You can find out more in the catalogue. Lot 2131: Audemars Piguet “Rolls Royce Phantom II” Before becoming synonyms with the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet (AP) produced a diversity of elaborately decorated wrist- and pocket watc...

Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials Worn & Wound
Rolex Gets Silly Mar 31, 2023

Reaction: Rolex Gets Silly With Colorful New Oyster Perpetual & Day-Date Dials

Rolex is always the talk of Watches & Wonders, but this year the conversation focused on an unlikely watch: an Oyster Perpetual with a “Celebration Dial,” a colorful and playful creation that seems very, well, unlike Rolex? But is it, really? It garnered a lot of attention, was immediately memed, and generated some of the most fiery takes of the show. The Worn & Wound editorial team, as you’d expect, has thoughts, so we weigh in on the new Oyster Perpetual, and a similarly colorful and offbeat Day-Date, below.  Zach Kazan No matter how hard brands try to prevent them, leaks of new releases are inevitable. It happened again this year with Rolex, the biggest brand of all. And while we only had hastily shared Google search results to go off of, and no actual specs or even basic information about the watches themselves, the shuttle ride to Palexpo on Day 1 was dominated by talk of gumballs.  The so-called “Celebration Dial” Oyster Perpetuals, along with the spiritually related “Jigsaw” Day-Date, are as whimsical as we’ve seen Rolex in recent years. Lefty GMT aside, this isn’t a brand known for its sense of humor. So a dial filled with colorful circles (51 is the official tally) that correspond with the colors of the most recent Oyster Perpetual refresh from about 3 years ago is bound to generate the hottest of takes. What I want to know from the haters is this: who decided Rolex can’t have fun? I guess if your version of Rolex is “luxury tool watches”...

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Fortis Oris Mar 29, 2023

The Windup Watch Fair Heads Back West to San Francisco!

Last year, after a brief hiatus, the Windup Watch Fair returned to San Francisco to a new venue with more brands than ever before. The venue and show were a big hit, so the team here at Worn & Wound has decided to double down on San Francisco this year with twice as much space and twice as many brands. Held at Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), the same venue as last year, the Windup Watch Fair will play host to a huge assortment of 60+ brands. Among these participating brands will be our Lead Sponsors, namely: Accutron, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Zodiac. Each of these will be sharing new and exciting watches for the very first time in the metal at Windup San Francisco. Please join us on Friday, April 28th through Sunday, April 30th. You won’t want to miss it! In addition to our amazing Lead Sponsors, we’ll have a combination of the popular brands you already know and love, as well as a slew of new brands and first-time participants. Here’s a full roster of participating brands. For the first time ever-along with panels, giveaways, happy hours, and food trucks-there will be an entire section of the Fair dedicated to accessory and everyday carry items. We’re calling this section ‘EDC Alley’ and it will feature some of our favorite pocket knife, pen, and boot brands, among so much more. Once you need a break from all the watch and EDC goodness, grab a drink and take a break in the Complecto Lounge. We’re honored to support the Complecto community...

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer who have introduced new Mar 28, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 2 Recap

Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines.  I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGA469 I decided Mar 27, 2023

Watches & Wonders: Day 1 Recap

Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders.  My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...