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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold SJX Watches
Montblanc Debuts Mar 22, 2021

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold

A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. Time+Tide
Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph.

Finally, after a five-year hiatus, my inner petrolhead is awakened from its slumber, and by a watch! I will not bore you with my younger days of owning British sports cars from the Triumph GT6 to a Lotus Elan to a lovely series 1 Jaguar XJ6 from 1970 with dark blue leather seats. But one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton SJX Watches
Omega Co-Axial cal 8500 Mar 22, 2021

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton

Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry is a pair of jewellers-turned-watchmakers who specialise in elaborate skeleton watches. The duo’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from a repurposed split-seconds pocket watch movement from the 1930s to an Omega Co-Axial cal. 8500 that looks nothing like the industrially-produced original. The brand’s latest is unusual, its first ultra-thin dress watch. Commissioned by a client as most of its watches are, the Carpe Noctem (Latin for “seize the night”) is just 7.1 mm high, and powered by a reworked Vaucher VMF 5401. Initial thoughts The VMF 5401 is a finely constructed movement – as all of Vaucher’s movements are – but rarely decorated in such an artisanal, intricate manner. Molnar Fabry’s revamp of the movement reveals much of its detail, while also showing off the brand’s skill in working with metal. Because Molnar Fabry’s watches are all one-offs that are hand made, the aesthetic varies tremendously, depending also on the client’s taste. The Carpe Noctem is cleaner and sleeker than many of the brand’s other creations, but boasts just as much craftsmanship in the movement, which is a good thing. The chapter ring for the hours is steel finished with circular graining, with the Roman numerals being engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hands are solid 18k pink gold At €35,000, Carpe Noctem is priced like earlier, comparable watches by Molnar Fabry. It’s a substantial sum of money, but a reasonable ask co...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots.

I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200 SJX Watches
Citizen Calibre 0200 Citizen Mar 21, 2021

Up Close: The Citizen Calibre 0200

Citizen is one of the world’s biggest watchmakers, with its timepiece division generating about US$1 billion in sales each year – an output of several hundred million watches and movements annually. That vast manufacturing expertise means Citizen knows how to produce a fine mechanical movement. Now Citizen has finally accomplished it, and installed the movement inside a brilliant new watch. Launched earlier this month, The Citizen Caliber 0200 is equipped with the brand’s first mechanical movement developed from scratch as a high-end calibre (“The Citizen” is the name of the collection, while Caliber 0200 refers to movement as well as this specific model). Although the brand did launch a version of The Citizen with an automatic movement in 2010, the new Caliber 0200 is radically different, and tremendously superior. While the highlight is the new Caliber 0200, the entire watch is executed extremely well. The case and bracelet are outstanding, fabricated and finished so well there is nothing else that comes close in the same price segment. The quality of the watch was apparent in the press photos, which made me want to see it in the metal. I got my hands on a prototype for a couple of days earlier this month, an experience that left me substantially impressed. [Editor’s note: The watch pictured is a prototype, so it does contain a handful of hard-to-spot imperfections.] Initial thoughts On paper, the Caliber 0200 might seem uninteresting, being yet another sp...

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form Time+Tide
Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers Mar 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form

What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market Quill & Pad
Mar 20, 2021

WatchBox Commentary On Hodinkee Takeover Of Crown & Caliber And State Of The Pre-Owned Market

In 2020/2021, the pre-owned landscape has experienced a seismic shift called consolidation, led by the acquisition of online vintage and pre-owned dealer Analog/Shift by Watches of Switzerland in late 2020 and more recently Hodinkee purchasing Crown & Caliber. Elizabeth Doerr converses with pre-owned watch specialist WatchBox's CEO Justin Reis for views on the Hodinkee takeover and the current pre-owned market.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs Mar 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401

We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Of The Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 20, 2021

5 Of The Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made – Reprise

Now, please don’t take this title the wrong way: this list is not definitive. Which is why it is not entitled “The 5 Most Innovative Wristwatches Ever Made." This list could have encompassed 15 or even 20 innovative wristwatches! And there are surely differing opinions. However, for Elizabeth Doerr these five timepieces encompass comprehensive parts of what is great about the modern world of wristwatches.

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Mar 20, 2021

Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months

If variety is the spice of life, then whoever who signs off on the G-Shock limited-editions must have some extremely tingly tastebuds. The staggering range of influences that inform these pieces is like something out of a Dr Seuss fever dream, happily jumping from Borneo rainbow toads to NASA space travel. The sheer number of … ContinuedThe post Seven of the best G-Shock limited editions from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2021

eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account

As we’ve previously reported, eBay are raising their game in the watch marketplace. One huge stride in the right direction came with their new eBay Authenticity Guarantee – a service where watches costing $2000 and above are eligible to be substantiated by an independent verification service before being shipped to the end consumer (currently only … ContinuedThe post eBay joins the Instagram world with new @eBaywatches account appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km) Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2021

The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km)

Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST has been known for many things – the monobloc titanium case, an automatic helium escape valve built into the crown, lume you could light a nightclub with – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t always been fêted for handsome looks. Sure, last year’s DeepQUEST II had a personality to match … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Olive dials Mar 18, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team!

Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore Mar 18, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system

Audemars Piguet is coming in hot for 2021, and AP is not pulling any punches. It is clear the plan is to usher in a new era of timepieces, and in particular the Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore collection is home to two brand new innovations: an all new in-house caliber and the first-ever … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet goes all-in on green for the 2021 Royal Oak collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet goes all-in Mar 18, 2021

INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet goes all-in on green for the 2021 Royal Oak collection

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models are among the most coveted watches in the entire world. Owners of the various references already make other collectors green with envy, but the new 2021 Royal Oak Collection will make onlookers envy the green. Somewhere Conor McGregor’s #NewWatchAlert spidey sense just started tingling, because this new collection of five … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Audemars Piguet goes all-in on green for the 2021 Royal Oak collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition Time+Tide
Blancpain Tribute Mar 18, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition

Limited editions of Blancpain divers are hot commodities in today’s marketplace, so when they are announced it’s best to act fast if you’re looking to secure one for your collection. They also have the added benefit of speaking to a wider spectrum of wrists, taking on a smaller 40.3mm case diameter reserved for limited editions. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cohiba Robusto: The Cuban Benchmark For All Cigars Quill & Pad
Mar 17, 2021

Cohiba Robusto: The Cuban Benchmark For All Cigars

Cohiba has that mythical aura about it, but is that always a good thing? For many, Cohiba Robustos are the ultimate robusto and among the very best from the Cohiba stable. As with every cigar, this is not necessarily a unanimous opinion, but they have been described as the benchmark against which all other cigars must be judged. Ken Gargett enlists some unexpected help in Cuba to track down a box of the best and shares the story and how they taste here.

BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team Time+Tide
Oris ed retailers Mar 17, 2021

BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team

Over the last decade, the watch media has played an increasingly important, and intertwined, part in the watch industry. From increased coverage of newly released watches to publications becoming authorised retailers for brands, the landscape has shifted forever. And out of this paradigm shift, one of the coolest things to be born is the watch … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The best watch media collaborations according to the T+T Team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The DOXA Sub 300 Carbon range delivers 6 eye-popping dials in future-proof carbon fibre Time+Tide
Doxa Sub 300 Carbon range Mar 17, 2021

HANDS ON: The DOXA Sub 300 Carbon range delivers 6 eye-popping dials in future-proof carbon fibre

The DOXA Sub 300 is a strong diver’s watch with vintage leanings. But the Sub 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition in carbon fibre offers a completely different proposition. Essentially, it refashions the piece with a modern edge – the sharp and moody presence of the industrial carbon fibre turning up the emphasis on the … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The DOXA Sub 300 Carbon range delivers 6 eye-popping dials in future-proof carbon fibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: The Unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 “Alan Banbery” Mar 16, 2021

Auction Watch: The Unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Alan Banbery”

A legendary watch long known to the market – and widely expected to reemerge – is finally coming to market. The one-off Patek Philippe ref. 3448 without a moon phase will be offered by Christie’s during its upcoming Hong Kong watch auction on May 22, 2021. This unique ref. 3448 was custom made for Alan Banbery, and is distinguished by the red leap-year indicator that replaces the conventional moon phase display. Though there are a few other known examples of the ref. 3448 without a moon phase – nicknamed “Senza Luna”, Italian for “without moon” – the Banbery watch is the only one with robust provenance, detailed documentation, and crucially, the under-dial mechanism for the leap-year display. An Englishman who was the longtime head of sales at Patek Philippe until his retirement in 2001. Still living near Geneva, Mr Banbery is probably best known as having helped Philippe Stern assemble the magnificent collection of clocks and watches that make up the Patek Philippe Museum, while also being one of the coauthors of the Patek Philippe, Geneve reference books alongside the late Munich watch retailer Martin Huber. During a 2017 meeting with Mr Banbery at the La Reserve hotel in Geneva, he recounted the origins of his ref. 3448. According to Mr Banbery, he had the idea of a ref. 3448 without a moon phase and took it to Patek Philippe watchmaker Max Berney, who then modified a standard ref. 3448, replacing the moon phase with a leap year display. He was gifted...

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad Mar 16, 2021

Introducing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms No Rad

Blancpain’s iconic dive watch introduced in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms was named after the maximum depth then considered to be safe for divers, about 91 m. The Fifty Fathoms also claims the title of being the first purpose-built dive watch, though Rolex contends that its Submariner came first. Produced in a great many iterations, the Fifty Fathoms has become highly collectible in good number of variations, including those bearing the “No Radiations” logo – used in the early 1960s to indicate that radioactive radium was no longer used for the luminescence of the dial. That watch has now been revived by Blancpain as the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad, a limited edition that channels the spirit of the 1960s original, but executed in modern-day Blancpain quality. An example of the vintage Fifty Fathoms “No Radiations” Initial thoughts A staple of Blancpain’s line up, the Fifty Fathoms has been revived in various guises over the last few years, with the latest “No Rad” being the latest of several vintage remakes. The abundance of Fifty Fathoms limited editions – all similar but slightly different – have diminished its uniqueness somewhat, but the “No Rad” is nonetheless compelling. For one, the design has some provenance: the vintage “No Radiations” is a rare watch that’s exploded in value on the secondary market. And the “No Radiations” dial is quaint and quirky, but also historically significant in the transition from radium to tritium, c...

11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods Time+Tide
Casio ak mods Mar 16, 2021

11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods

A few weeks back, I wrote about my own Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A (AKA the CasiOak) that I had modified and received a lot of positive feedback about. Many people expressed interest in how different the watch looked after the modification. While I did note that the bracelet wasn’t particularly comfortable on the wrist, I agreed … ContinuedThe post 11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon range Mar 15, 2021

VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range

Thanks to the vintage looks of its steel case, the DOXA SUB 300 is a cult diver’s watch. But ever since the SUB 300 Aqualung US Divers in carbon fibre came out, its dark presence has haunted the dreams of DOXA fans (in a good way).  Sleek and moody, the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon turns up … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Bright candy dials meet carbon fibre in the new DOXA SUB 300 Carbon range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 Mar 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition

Prospex is the largest growing Seiko line-up with buyers flocking to add pieces from the collection to their wrist. Highly robust and value-driven, these watches can be more affordable than their competitors with little to no sacrifice in the quality of fabrication. While many will refer to this watch as a new entry into the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SLA051J1 and SLA049J1 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.