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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Aug 26, 2023

The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all

“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch Time+Tide
IWC s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono May 21, 2023

IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch

All the rage at the IWC booth during the 2023 edition of Watches & Wonders was the revamped Genta Ingenieur, and rightfully so, for the most part. This story, however, is not about the Ingenieur, but IWC’s bread and butter – pilot’s watches – and more specifically, the brand new Pilot’s Chronograph 41 in stunning … ContinuedThe post IWC’s green-dialled Pilot’s Chrono in rose gold is a luxe take on a tool watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Jan 31, 2023

The Zenith Defy Revival A3690 Gets Historic Teal Dial

There was one watch we saw at the LVMH Watch Week still under wraps, and it was also one of our favorites, even though it’s based on an existing model. The perfectly odd Defy Revival welcomes the new A3690 reference, with a brilliant teal dial with vignette effect that darkens towards the perimeter. If you’ve followed the first two releases of this Defy Revival, you won’t be surprised to hear that this is also based on a historic reference from 1969. This is a dial color that saw usage throughout the Defy collection of the era, another example of which you can see in this Affordable Vintage spotlight on the Defy from 2015. Side note, when are we getting the Revival treatment on the A781, A782, and A783? There’s not much left to say about the A3690 from a technical perspective, as it’s identical to the A3691, and A3642 we’ve seen released in recent months. The 37mm octagonal case and 14 sided bezel piece remain as funky as ever, and if you liked it on the other references, you’ll likely find a lot to love with this one. The dial is the biggest departure here and it makes just as big a statement as the case. While the teal dial thing has kind of jumped the shark at this point (hasn’t it?), Zenith gets a pass thanks to the historic reference point, and the fact that the Defy was doing integrated bracelet sport watches since the ‘60s. Plus, this is a great teal dial. It stands up to the bold design of the case and the accordion hour markers demanding equal at...

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 7, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Debuted exactly 90 years ago a sports watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is famous for its swivelling case that was meant to protect the crystal. But in the modern day, the Reverso has paradoxically evolved into brand’s signature dress watch, as well as a canvas for assorted complications and artisanal decoration. The latest 90th anniversary model falls into the former category – the Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater is highly complicated, with its mechanics visible on two open-worked faces: the chiming mechanism revealed on the front and the base movement on the reverse. The front (left) with the repeater revealed, and the back showing the hand-wind calibre Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Repeater is an example of smart engineering and design, executed in a way that is possible only with the Reverso’s two faces. Notably, doing away with a solid dial is actually a technical necessity (more on that later), rather than mere vanity, but it leaves the watch looking as impressively complicated as it is. Though a modular repeater, its repeating mechanism is no ordinary example, but instead incorporates two proprietary innovations that compound to produce louder chimes, namely the extra-large hammers and the gongs that are located as close to the wearer as possible – they are attached onto the front crystal, hence the absence of the dial. Upon activation, the slider on the left winds up the mainspring at six o’clock, which unwinds to power the repeater That said, t...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition May 10, 2021

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal

Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 14, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...

VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial Time+Tide
Feb 11, 2021

VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial

If you’re looking for a go anywhere, do anything type of watch, but don’t want to spend a fortune, John Robert Wristwatches might be what you’re looking for. Based in Melbourne, but produced in Switzerland, they recently released their debut collection aptly names the Archetype. This collection was born out of a desire to have … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The John Robert Archetype is a dressy tool watch from Melbourne with an intriguing linen dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2019

The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale

How did I accidentally become a vintage watch guy? Partly, I blame the fact that I’ve got the spindly wrists of a teenage girl. That meant I naturally gravitated towards smaller dials. But I also put it down to the tawdry state of my finances. When I first started to get into watches - before the retro … ContinuedThe post The 3 mistakes I made buying a vintage watch, my cautionary tale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Nathan’s Omega Speedmaster “Tintin” Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster “Tintin” Oct 6, 2018

WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Nathan’s Omega Speedmaster “Tintin”

The story of Omega’s Speedmaster “Tintin” is the tale of a watch that almost never was. The same goes for Nathan and his red-and-white chequered dial Speedy. When did you first see/hear about it? I have always found the most interesting watches to be unique variations of classic designs. The Tintin fits this description perfectly, … ContinuedThe post WHAT SEALED THE DEAL: On Nathan’s Omega Speedmaster “Tintin” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials Monochrome
MeisterSinger Apr 23, 2026

Introducing – New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials

While not the only brand to offer watches with a single-handed time display, MeisterSinger (since 2001) is the only one to have built its entire identity around this concept. Rooted in early watchmaking traditions, long before minutes and seconds dominated the dial, the brand’s approach prioritises perception over precision. A slower, more deliberate reading of […]

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets Apr 14, 2026

Introducing – The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Gets new Dials

The Historiques American 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most recognisable heritage revivals: a cushion-cased, asymmetrical wristwatch inspired by early-1920s designs. Made for the American market in 1921, the distinctive wristwatch, with its 45-degree-rotated dial and unconventional crown placement, made it practical for motorists who could read the time without taking their hands off the […]

Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials Time+Tide
Czapek & Cie releases three Apr 12, 2026

Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials

Czapek & Cie releases a trio of Antarctique models with grade 5 titanium cases and bracelets, and Cosmic Blue dials The Dark Sector and Révélation models are available in both 40.5mm and 38.5mm, and the Tourbillon model is available in 40.5mm. Each model features Cosmic Blue as the main dial colour, with each model appearing … ContinuedThe post Cool blues and feather light, Czapek & Cie releases three new Antartique models in full titanium and blue dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mar 3, 2026

Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections

If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways.  Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.”  The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...

New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials Deployant
Raymond Weil Feb 28, 2026

New: Raymond Weil millesime small seconds with Tuxedo‑style sector dials

The latest millesime small seconds keeps the core architecture of the line intact while shifting the visual emphasis toward stronger contrast and more deliberate layering. The case, proportions, and RW4251 movement remain unchanged, which gives the new references a familiar baseline. The update comes through the Tuxedo‑inspired dial treatment and the way each colorway organizes light and dark zones.

Introducing – Mother-of-Pearl Dials for the Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud and Promenade Midnight Pearl Monochrome
Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud Feb 25, 2026

Introducing – Mother-of-Pearl Dials for the Czapek Antarctique S Ice Cloud and Promenade Midnight Pearl

Among the incredible variety of materials used to decorate dials, mother-of-pearl is an all-time favourite. Obtained from the inner lining of oyster and mollusc shells, mother-of-pearl is a captivating, naturally iridescent material that adds a unique shimmer to dials. Working with GT Cadrans, a specialist Swiss dial manufacturer, Czapek embellishes its Antarctique S and Promenade […]

California Dials Explained, and Seven of Our Favorites Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 30, 2026

California Dials Explained, and Seven of Our Favorites

Watches with California dials are among the most niche products in the industry, with a relatively vague history that somehow only adds to their mystique and quirky appeal. If you’re not familiar with the California dial - or if you are already a convert and simply curious about where in this day and age you can find these rare birds - read on as we attempt to answer all of the expected queries about the style, starting with the most basic, namely:  [toc-section heading="What Exactly Are California Dials?"] Photo: Sotheby's A California dial is generally recognized as a watch dial with a combination of Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and non-numeral indexes to mark the hour positions. On most examples, the layout is fairly consistent: Roman numerals in the top half of the dial, from 10 o’clock to 2 o’clock; Arabic numerals in the bottom half, from 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock; baton-shaped or rectangular-dash indexes breaking up the numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock; and an inverted triangle marking the 12 o’clock position. A few watchmakers, like Germany’s Nomos Glashütte in its Club Campus models, have chosen to stray from this formula a bit, putting the Arabic numerals in the top half and Roman numerals in the bottom half. Other variations include the less-common “Semi-California” dial, which uses the triangle at 12 o’clock and indexes at the 15-minute markers but opts for only Arabic numerals at the other positions.  [toc-section heading="Who Made...