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Time+Tide
The newest release from Christopher Ward ushers in a new era for the brand and is the next bold step after the Bel Canto.The post The new Christopher Ward C12 Loco is a Bel Canto killer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
![[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Changes the Game, Again – C12 Loco Review with Video](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/CWARD_C12_LOCO_2.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Is it too dramatic to say that just about three years ago, in November of 2022, Christopher Ward changed the watch industry as we knew it? Perhaps. But what fun is a watch review without some hyperbole? And frankly, it’s not a far-off statement either. I’m talking, of course, about the launch of the C1 Bel Canto. Not only did that watch set Christopher Ward on a new trajectory as a brand, but it also proved what smaller independent brands were capable of. Since then, we’ve seen a surge of ingenuity in the industry. But I’m burying the lede. It’s 2025, and Christopher Ward has done it again with the launch of the C12 Loco: a full-fledged vision of independent watchmaking that, perhaps most impressively, maintains the brand’s value-focused ethos. But to fully appreciate the C12 Loco, we must rewind to 2014. That’s when Christopher Ward did the unthinkable and received little to no attention for it: they launched an in-house movement called the SH21. Back then, “in-house” was a term that got thrown around a lot. It was always a big deal when a brand announced an “in-house” movement. But, it was the territory of the very large or the very high-end, and the idea that smaller, more accessible independents could produce an in-house caliber was almost absurd. When a brand announced an in-house movement, everyone took notice, and sometimes brands were called out for using the term too loosely (including other British brands…). So, when the SH21 debuted, it w...
SJX Watches
Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...
Fratello
Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanics. Put simply, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 Loco proves that higher-end watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price point. I spent a week with the new C12 Loco in its striking […] Visit Hands-On: The New Christopher Ward C12 Loco Shows White-Hot Ambition to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Last year, Christopher Ward followed up on its hugely popular C2 Bel Canto with an Act II version, featuring a new dial texture. When it was released, I commented on how difficult sequels can be when the original captured lightning in a bottle, and pondered what it might take for the brand to accomplish such a feat again. This week, we’re getting an answer to that with the release of the new C12 Loco, featuring Christopher Ward’s second in-house movement, the CW-003. The C12 Loco is much more than that, though. Once again, Christopher Ward has taken inspiration from far more exotic realms, and has brought a custom-designed free-sprung balance to the dial side, floating underneath the hour and minute display. The Christopher Ward C12 uses the same twelve-sided, integrated case as The Twelve collection that was introduced back in 2023. The C12 Loco uses a 41mm steel case, much the same as the Twelve X, though now it clocks in at 13.7mm in thickness - so, while it’s large, it should still be perfectly manageable on the wrist. This is an integrated case, so the length is about the same as the width, with the ends of the case angling downward to meet the strap or bracelet end link. It’s also worth noting that the box crystal accounts for a good bit of that thickness. The midcase section is just 9.75mm in thickness. It’s everything between that span that serves as the star of the show here. The CW-003 caliber uses twin mainspring barrels to provide a healthy 144 ...
Video
Hands on with the new Rolex watches of 2026
Monochrome
The watch we’re looking at today isn’t exactly new, not in the strictest sense. But the way Patek Philippe sets itself apart from its predecessors – the 5370P in platinum, first released in 2015 with a black dial and later in 2020 with a blue enamel one – is worth noting. This latest version introduces […]
Hodinkee
Why I sold my original Black Bay Pro and why this new dial is making me reconsider it.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century. 1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...
Time+Tide
In an unexpected and playful move, SU unveils two new Series1 colourways inspired by knock-offs of their watches rather than lawyering up.The post Studio Underd0g pulls an Uno reverse on plagiarists by homaging its own homages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In Rolex’s repertoire, the Oyster Perpetual was and still is the brand’s entry-level model, available in no fewer than five different sizes – 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm and 41mm. The collection, which was somehow neglected by enthusiasts, was revamped in 2020, gaining much visibility thanks to its colourful, Stella-inspired dials (and funky colours that drove […]
Video
The wait is over! New models are out and this year they did not disappoint.
Quill & Pad
"Making my own watch is a bit like flying like an eagle high in the sky, seeing everything hearing everything and going where I want."
Monochrome
Since Bremont changed hands in 2023, concerns arose that the rugged, aviation-themed watches of the British brand, founded by the English brothers, would disappear under Davide Cerrato’s management. Now that the dust has settled and Bremont has reinstated its iconic Trip-Tick case with its MB (Martin-Baker) Altitude models, the brand appears to be back on […]
Fratello
Last year, for the brand’s 50th anniversary, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduced the Grand Planetarium Eccentric. It was a 44mm watch in platinum or rose gold with eight hand-painted celestial bodies circling its aventurine dial. That already sounds quite impressive, right? Well, when I met Pim Koeslag, CEO of the Dutch brand, at Watches and […] Visit Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Pelagos has consistently been something of "the other watch" in the broader Tudor lineup, sitting in the shadow of the Black Bay. It is also decidedly more modern in its design and is intended as Tudor’s more contemporary, dive-ready tool. What started as a 42mm mode then morphed into a watch in varying sizes, lug construction, and case construction. In 2025 it now sits as a somewhat diversified collection of its own. Is it a Black Bay in terms of scale and breadth of the collection? No, it is not, but it is also no longer a one trick pony. That concept is no more evident than in the Watches & Wonders 2025 release of the Pelagos Ultra, a 43mm riff on the Pelagos theme that aligns it more closely with the Rolex Deepsea than the Sea-Dweller or Submariner. This is a big, brash, and burly dive watch, intended for a very specific segment of the watch world. If you thought the Pelagos FXD was specific, the Ultra turns the dial up to 11. Case So as I mentioned above, the case is made from the traditional (for a Pelagos) titanium material, a combination of grade 2 and grade 5 to be specific. The side of the case opposite the crown features a discreet helium escape valve. The case may seem big from the specs alone, but the 52mm lug-to-lug makes it such that it isn’t a behemoth. The case thickness is a proportional 14.5mm and due to the overall size, you will be looking at a lug width of 22mm. The bezel insert is made of a matte titanium housed in a titanium bezel. The...
Monochrome
The intricate world of watchmaking has just gotten a bit more intricate, complex and bewildering. Through several truly technical new watches, we learned there’s still new ground to break, new records to be achieved, and new complications to be introduced. With the aim of helping to digest everything we saw during Watches & Wonders and […]
Video
For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Worn & Wound
It’s easy in this job to get into the habit of casually skimming press releases as they hit our inbox. We get a lot of new release announcements, and most of them, for one reason or another, never make it to the website. There’s a certain formula to these press releases that makes it easy for us to identify the key features and attributes of a new watch with a cursory glance, but there are certain releases where it really pays to slow down and drink it all in. For example, any new release from ochs und junior really demands your full attention simply because their creations are so deeply unusual and require a rethinking of watches and timetelling itself actually work. Such is the case with the new two time zones + date, the latest watch to be featured in the brand’s “ochs line” of series produced watches (as opposed to the fully customized watches that put them on the map). Besides a commitment to stylizing their brand with entirely lower case letters, the thing that has always set ochs und junior apart is their commitment to creating complications that are as mechanically simple as possible. You see a lot of high end watch brands proudly announce that their ultra-complicated grand complications, for example, have untold hundreds of components and jewels under the hood. These stats are worn like a badge of honor. I can imagine Ludwig Oechslin and his team looking at these announcements and shrugging their shoulders – they simply have a completely different ph...
Hodinkee
The French style of watchmaking is having a resurgence, and young names like Cools are leading the charge.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Quartz movements get a bad rap from mechanical purists-and I'll never get it. The ticking second hand can apparently leave you feeling cold, especially when you’re used to the smooth sweep of an automatic. But for me, that’s always been a bit unfair. The real question isn’t whether quartz can match mechanicals-it's whether it should have to. Bulova’s HPQ (High-Performance Quartz) Precisionist movement is out to prove that quartz doesn’t just get the job done.
Monochrome
Do you remember where you were back in June 1993 when Jurassic Park first roared onto movie screens? Even more so… Do you remember the thrill of watching that incredible story unfold? The wonder of the dinosaurs, the groundbreaking special effects, and that feeling of what if this could actually happen? Now, you’ve got a […]
Monochrome
Ace Jewelers and Nomos join forces again to create two special Dutch-themed pieces to celebrate the Amsterdam jeweller’s 50th anniversary, following the original Orion De Stijl Limited Edition, the Club Campus Amsterdam, the Zürich Weltzeit Amsterdam and the Tangente 38 Amsterdam. The model selected for this new series is the Metro, a family rarely singled […]
Video
How American is Hamilton? While the watch world rants and raves over premature reactions and cookie cutter content centered on the same new releases at Watches and Wonders, I decided to post something refreshingly dif...
Monochrome
First released in 2004, the Orient Mako quickly became a hit, for it was a compelling take on the dive watch at a very accessible price. This competitor to the Seiko SKX Series, 5 Sports series or Citizen Promaster Marine and Challenge Diver. It is, from a value standpoint, one of the best automatic dive […]
Fratello
Chopard had another great showing at Watches and Wonders this year. The brand garnered much praise with the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV series. It’s another brilliant addition to Chopard’s lineup that will draw in excited buyers for the two new models as well as spark many enthusiasts to explore the past L.U.C Quattro collections. This […] Visit The Great Versatility Of The Chopard Alpine Eagle As Demonstrated By Its Two Latest Models to read the full article.
Revolution
Ross Povey gives us all there is to know about Rolex’s brief foray into quartz watches with the famed and revered Oysterquartz.
Worn & Wound
The latest from Ming, the 37.02 Ghost, is something of a study in titanium, a favorite material here at Worn & Wound. Members of our team have been fans of titanium for years for its light weight and its frequent association with many of the tool watches we’ve come to love. Titanium was a rarely used material in watchmaking not that long ago, but it’s so prevalent now that it’s easy to forget that at one time it was considered quite exotic. The Ghost taps into some of that exoticism, and reminds us just how strange and, at least in some ways, how ill suited titanium can be to watchmaking – a fact that makes a watch like this all the more impressive. The 37.02 Ghost is made entirely from grade 2 titanium, a material often referred to as “pure” titanium. This material is distinct from grade 5 titanium, which is much more common in modern watchmaking, in a number of ways. Grade 5 titanium is made up of significant quantities of aluminum and was developed to be relatively easy to machine for applications in aerospace and other industries. Those qualities also, eventually, made it well suited to watchmaking, and it’s really a special bonus that grade 5 titanium can be finished with a polish and has an overall brighter appearance than other titanium allows. Grade 2 titanium is an entirely different animal. Ming notes that pure titanium is extremely difficult to cut, and there’s even a significant risk that grade 2 titanium shavings and dust can catch fire dur...
Fratello
My favorite guilty-pleasure brand is, without a shadow of a doubt, Hublot. The colorful ceramic models, in particular, have the X factor. Guess what: the quintet of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary watches is made in different materials, one of which is bright red ceramic. The other four are titanium, King Gold, Magic Gold, and […] Visit Hands-On With A Quintet Of Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.
Video
watches & Wonders 2026 delivered some incredible timepieces — and in this video, I break down the very best releases from this year’s event.
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