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Worn & Wound: A Home for Enthusiast Communities Worn & Wound
Feb 8, 2024

Worn & Wound: A Home for Enthusiast Communities

Two years ago, I penned a letter to you, our audience, titled Worn & Wound – a Place to Discover Watches and Experience Enthusiasm. The premise was pretty simple: we’d grown over the years as a company, as people, and as a community, so the scope of our coverage was changing to reflect that. What tied the old and the new together was, and still is, our genuine enthusiasm for what we do. In the time since our growth has accelerated, and so has our need for introspection. We reached a turning point as a company, a brand, and perhaps an industry that has inspired us to think about what we do and why we do it. Conveniently, we had the beginnings of our answer in the tagline we unveiled two years ago: Experience Enthusiasm. Seeking, creating, and expressing enthusiasm have always been the undercurrent of what we do. What we missed was an acknowledgment that enthusiasm goes far beyond watches.  Enthusiasm is the force that unites groups of people with passions and interests. It’s why some of us can stare endlessly at watches, others at camera stats, others at pens, knives, and cars, and… well, you get the picture. Worn & Wound wants to bring these passions and communities together because while the products or experiences at the center of these communities differ, the enthusiasm is shared and can be exceptionally infectious. I could go on, but this time, we thought it would be best if you heard the thoughts of the members of the Worn & Wound team that run our various de...

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Monochrome
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium Zenith Feb 8, 2024

First Look – The New Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium

Zenith captured the attention and resonated strongly with enthusiasts in 2021 by unveiling the Chronomaster Sport collection. Setting itself apart from its predecessors, the series introduced several distinctive elements. Notably, the bezel graduated to 1/10th of a second, a departure from the traditional and arguably redundant tachymeter scale found on many chronographs. Following multiple variants […]

Ambition, Success, and the Watches of The Iron Claw Worn & Wound
Rolex makes Feb 7, 2024

Ambition, Success, and the Watches of The Iron Claw

Climb up to the top rope with me for a few minutes, and let’s look upon the roles we play within the watch enthusiast community: are we a face or a heel (or likely somewhere in between)? The Iron Claw, my personal favorite film of 2023, forces this type of introspection onto its viewers. The audience is dealt heaps of toxic masculinity and likely some generational trauma, dumped from Fritz Von Erich (Holt McCallany) onto his sons Kevin (Zac Efron), Kerry (Jeremy Allen White), David (Harris Dickinson), and Mike (Stanley Simons). Much of this hinges on Fritz’s perceived failures and an idea he states early on in the film, “If I want to be a star, I need to act like a star […] The only way to beat IT is to be the toughest, the strongest, the most successful. The absolute best.” In more ways than one, we all wrestle with being our best selves and wanting to be perceived as something we aren’t.  The theme of becoming and appearing as if you’re the best plays a role, at times, in the watch world. And, wouldn’t you know it, Rolex makes an appearance on the wrists of at least three characters to subliminally drive this theme home. In the film Rolexes are worn by Fritz Von Erich, his son Kevin Von Erich, and Ric Flair (Aaron Dean Eisenberg).  Holt McCallany as Fritz Von Erich In the opening scene of the film, when Fritz is speaking with his wife, Dottie (Maura Tierney), about what it means to be and appear as a star, he is trying to defend the decision to lease a ...

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets a Sleek Grey Dial Monochrome
Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets Feb 7, 2024

Introducing – The Junghans Meister Chronoscope Gets a Sleek Grey Dial

Despite offering a plethora of well-designed and attractively priced watches, coupled with a rich history, Junghans relishes its somewhat under-the-radar reputation. Integral to Junghans’ contemporary image are the original Meister timepieces dating back to the 1930s and the iconic Max Bill collection, which debuted in the 1960s when the esteemed Bauhaus designer collaborated with the […]

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V in Carbon Composite SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Feb 7, 2024

Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V in Carbon Composite

A lightweight version of Urwerk’s most affordable model, the UR-100V “Lightspeed” retains the signature wandering hours time and carbon composite case of the earlier “C52” model. The Lightspeed, however, gains a facelift with a display that tracks the speed of light from the Sun traveling through the solar system. Initial thoughts  At first glance, the Lightspeed may appear similar to the standard UR-100V. Yet, closer scrutiny reveals distinct features, most notably a display indicating the time it takes for light to travel to each of the planets in our solar system. Furthermore, the black carbon case easily complements the aesthetic of the watch. Attention to detail was paid to the light speed display, which also incorporates a new, streamlined cover for the central carousel. And of course the calculations required for the display were clearly substantial. That being said, the display might not be for everyone, as all of the text crowds the dial. A more streamlined arrangement of the planet names or even symbols might have worked better.  The Lightspeed retails for CHF65,000 with a limited but unrevealed production run. As Urwerk’s entry-level watch, the new UR-100V is a reasonable proposition in terms of independent watchmaking. However, it has competition from Urwerk’s own catalogue, where the titanium “Magic T” with a matching bracelet (albeit with a simpler case construction) costs CHF10,000 less. Tracing the speed of light The new model is named a...

Gumball Rally/Around-the-World-in-80-Days/24 Hours of Le Mans: Here’s a Proposal for a Real-Life International Chronometry Competition that Both Brands and Collectors might Enjoy Quill & Pad
Feb 7, 2024

Gumball Rally/Around-the-World-in-80-Days/24 Hours of Le Mans: Here’s a Proposal for a Real-Life International Chronometry Competition that Both Brands and Collectors might Enjoy

Ian Skellern's suggestion for an International Chronometry Competition is a group of well-heeled collectors – brands/independents are also welcome to participate, but I suspect they will wait to see how it goes – set off from, say, Geneva, but could be New York, Dubai, or Singapore, wearing one or two watches, on a two-week world tour. Here he explains how it might work.

GMT Italia’s Jacopo Corvo: 5 Insights into Italian Watch Culture | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 4 Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 7, 2024

GMT Italia’s Jacopo Corvo: 5 Insights into Italian Watch Culture | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 4

Great Masters of Time (GMT) Italia – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 GMT Italia has established a strong and enduring presence in the luxury watch industry, with its roots dating back to the 1950s. The company was founded by Giorgio Corvo, who opened a watch distribution company representing prestigious brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over the years, GMT […]

GMT Italia: Italian Pioneers of Independent Watchmaking | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 3 Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 7, 2024

GMT Italia: Italian Pioneers of Independent Watchmaking | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 3

Great Masters of Time (GMT) Italia – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 GMT Italia has established a strong and enduring presence in the luxury watch industry, with its roots dating back to the 1950s. The company was founded by Giorgio Corvo, who opened a watch distribution company representing prestigious brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over the years, GMT […]

GMT Italia: 70 years of Pioneering Indie Watchmaking | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 2 Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 7, 2024

GMT Italia: 70 years of Pioneering Indie Watchmaking | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 2

Great Masters of Time (GMT) Italia – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 GMT Italia has established a strong and enduring presence in the luxury watch industry, with its roots dating back to the 1950s. The company was founded by Giorgio Corvo, who opened a watch distribution company representing prestigious brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over the years, GMT […]

GMT Italia: The Beauty of Italian Watch Collecting | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 1 Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 7, 2024

GMT Italia: The Beauty of Italian Watch Collecting | Revolution Top Retailers | EP 1

Great Masters of Time (GMT) Italia – Revolution Top Retailers 2024 GMT Italia has established a strong and enduring presence in the luxury watch industry, with its roots dating back to the 1950s. The company was founded by Giorgio Corvo, who opened a watch distribution company representing prestigious brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Over the years, GMT […]

Raúl Pagès Wins Inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Feb 7, 2024

Raúl Pagès Wins Inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

In its first year, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives has been awarded to Raúl Pagès and his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. Selected by a five-person jury, the RP1 triumphed over five finalists, including Andreas Strehler with his Tischkalender Sympathique and Petermann Bedat and its Reference 2941 split-seconds chronograph. A watchmaker, restorer, and automaton maker, Mr Pagès’ winning entry is a time-only wristwatch with a regulator-style display, and more importantly, a movement of his own design with a detent escapement. Historically found in precision marine chronometers, detent escapements are highly accurate but typically not shock resistant, a problem Mr Pagès solved by taking inspiration from a 19th century escapement design. As a result, his escapement is shock resistant enough for everyday use in a wristwatch. Besides technical features, the RP1 movement also boasts a high level of decoration that is artisanal in nature and accomplished by hand. The finishing, architecture, and construction are all classical in style, reflecting Mr Pagès experience as a restorer, most notably at Parmigiani, perhaps the most respected restoration workshop in Switzerland. A drawing a traditional detent escapement (left), and the RP1 detent escapement Tearing up as he gave his acceptance speech, Mr Pagès’ win is a milestone in a career that actually started over a decade ago. His skill and dedication were recognised by the jury, made up of Carole Forest...

News – Raúl Pagès Wins the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Feb 6, 2024

News – Raúl Pagès Wins the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

Introduced last year as a project, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives has to be seen as one of the most interesting recent initiatives in the field of independent and high-end watchmaking. Even though backed up by the world’s largest luxury conglomerates, the LV Watch Prize aims to become a biennial prize that […]

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & BR 03 Cyber Ceramic Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & Feb 6, 2024

Hands-On: the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum & BR 03 Cyber Ceramic

Make no mistake, I’m grateful to be able to write about watches. Doing so opens a lot of doors and brings about some great opportunities. Many fantastic new watches are delivered to my door, and often weeks will pass without needing to pick something to wear from my own watch box. However, there are times when a new watch is in such demand, or produced in such limited numbers, that a loan is not easy to come by. The BR-X5 Green Lum is one such watch. Spending some time with it would mean leaving the warmth and comfort of my own home and venturing up to London’s Bell & Ross boutique. It’s a ‘hardship’ I’m willing to take, and an opportunity I’m still thankful for. So, accompanied by ‘wrist model’ and Bell & Ross fan Jeremy, I trekked up to the Big Smoke to go hands-on with this bright and bold addition to the BR-X5 line, and also had some surprise wrist time with the brand new BR 03 Cyber Ceramic. First up is the Green Lum ($13,300). When the BR-X5 line was launched in late 2022, it represented a serious advancement in the Bell & Ross brand identity. For as long as I can remember, the square watch has been Bell & Ross’s calling card. Think square: think Bell & Ross. The successful BR05 model family saw the brand pushing into the integrated-bracelet sports watch arena, rounding off a few square edges while still maintaining a familiar dial layout. Outside of those product lines Bell & Ross has also regularly added to and updated its ‘Concept’ range, w...

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform

Orion Watches has a way of making one see a simple design in new light. Take, for instance, the isometric patterned dial on their Tesseract model. Or perhaps the tonal verdency of their Calamity diver is more your speed? Throughout the Orion catalog, one gets the sense that founder Nick Harris understands that a good watchmaker doesn’t rely on old tropes, but finds ways to add an element of surprise with each wear. That’s exactly what we’re seeing with the newest collection, the Orion Sylph. Coming in three distinct styles, the Sylph plays with color and texture against the shared sunburst dial. Customers can choose from a Graphite, Burgundy, and Black Mother-of-Pearl option, each with a bit of contrast to give a unique personality to each reference. Take, for instance, the Burgundy, which features a honey-colored dial accent and second hand. Then there is the dark charm of the Graphite option, which is contrasted with a sporty orange accent. And finally, the pièce de résistance, the Black Mother-of-Pearl reference, whose dial captures light beautifully and is accented in teal.  The Sylph stands out in its price segment with stainless steel indices, setting it apart from the softer appearance of plated plastic or brass alternatives. The silver ink dial printing adds warmth and reduces harsh contrast, while the diamond-cut hands, inspired by the Calamity, feature a thinner lume strip for a harmonious design. The Sylph is adapted from the Hellcat platform. The thin ...

BLAKJAK: Tornek-Rayville Type 7B Case Study & Technical Specifications Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

BLAKJAK: Tornek-Rayville Type 7B Case Study & Technical Specifications

Staff Sgt. Highrock, Jimmie to the guys, was chilled to the bone and slightly delirious with sleep deprivation but never felt more fulfilled. It was also hard to complain since the rebels were doing the same with less and had been at it for years. The ODA had had to break up into 4 cells in order to get the coverage they wanted and his cell, Alpha, had just spent the last 12 tortured hours on horseback riding over ridges and up to the spur deep in Taliban held territory. Before leaving he had set his Type 7B wrist watch to count the number of days so he could keep better track over the limited supplies they had. The latest supply drop had missed the DZ and they couldn’t for the life of them find any trace of it and so went the extra MREs they had counted on bringing with them. Dave had just finished setting up the SOFLAM and Mike was on the SATCOM to confirm with the Capt. they had arrived as well as the expected kickoff for the attack that they would be supporting. Their task was to bomb the shit out of any reinforcements moving south towards Dostum’s point of attack on the Taliban lines. Mike confirmed to Dave and Jimmie that the attack was set for mid-afternoon about 2 hours before sunset. They had finally arranged through K2, their base in Uzbekistan, to have air assets over the battle area in order to provide close air support before, during, and after the attack. They still had a few hours to wait and so spent the time glassing the road and the surrounding mounta...

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire Monochrome
Piaget Polo 79 Recovers Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire

When it was relaunched with a modernized and sleeker design in 2016, the Piaget Polo adopted the design cues of luxury sports watches, slightly changing the face of the collection to become a cushion-shaped watch. However, this isn’t how the model started its life. This year, Piaget celebrates its 150th anniversary, and to whet our […]

10 Best Longines Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Feb 5, 2024

10 Best Longines Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

Headquartered in Saint-Imier, Switzerland since its founding in 1832, Longines takes its name from “les longines,” or the “long meadows” that surround that picturesque Swiss village. For nearly 200 years, the brand has been a watchmaking pioneer and a prolific maker of timepieces in all manner of styles and for all types of users - from sports timing to aviation, from an afternoon of scuba diving to an elegant night on the town. What are the best Longines watches on the market today? It all depends on what you’re looking for in a timepiece. In the curated list below, we showcase some of our recent favorites from the contemporary collection, which offers a style of watch for just about everyone.  Retro-Cool Dive Watch: Legend Diver Price: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11 Longines updated the Legend Diver, a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to its anti-corrosive properties, and paired it with a sea-green lacquered dial. The 42-mm, 300-meter water-resistant case replicates the silhouette of the original and includes that vintage model’s two crowns - one for winding the watch, the other for operating the internal rotating divers’ bezel. The lacquered dial has a gradient effect, with an emerald green center radiating to an outer edge of bla...

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Feb 5, 2024

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week

TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection

Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point.  The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...

The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 GMT They also Feb 5, 2024

The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT

For the past 15 years, UK based Schofield Watch Company has been making watches using the same case shape and dimensions, with various color and finishing details. For 2024 they are launching a brand-new case and size, as well as a new complication. Introducing the Light, a field watch with a GMT function, which retains Schofield’s design esthetics, but at a size that should appeal to today’s sensibilities.  There are two models within the Light collection. Both feature a two-piece 40mm media-blasted case with a vertically brushed bezel, and the movement powering them is the relatively new Seiko NH34 GMT. They also have domed box sapphire crystals and case backs that feature lighthouse artwork printed on a mineral glass, through which you can see parts of the movement.   The aptly named The Light One, has a light gray step dial that features a cream outer ring with black printed numerals. The hour and minute hands are painted dark for contrast, with a light colored 24hr GMT lollipop hand turning within the inner stepped portion. The Dark One, in contrast, has a darker gray center dial, with a black stepped ring and white numerals. The main hands are light gray, the lollipop GMT hand is dark gray, and the case is entirely coated in black PVD. The text, branding and logo on the dials are very discreetly printed and there is no 24hr track, which makes reading the second time zone a little challenging. Therefore, a little commitment to understanding how to read the GMT ...

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre Monochrome
Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497 Celebrating Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre

Even though its development started during the 1970s, it took some years for Seiko and Grand Seiko to finally present their first movement equipped with the Spring Drive technology (the very first was a Seiko in 1999). In 2004, after more than 2 decades of research, the first generation of Grand Seiko Spring Drive was […]

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT Feb 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

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Longines Feb 4, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More!

We’re back to our usual broadcasting with episode 73 of A Week in Watches. 2024 has gotten off to a solid start with several cool new releases and some interesting projects. This week, we take a look at the first new Speedy of the year, a wild project from Seiko, a fantastic calendar chrono from Zenith, and the revival of a vintage favorite from Longines. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.