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The Swatch Group

Largest Swiss watch employer (~17,000 staff). 18 brands from Breguet/Blancpain at the top to Swatch at entry. ETA SA + Nivarox-FAR. Hayek family controls.

Ressence Introduces the Minimalist and Affordable Type 8 SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Mar 25, 2022

Ressence Introduces the Minimalist and Affordable Type 8

The latest from Ressence dials back on technical complexity, but preserves the brand’s trademark aesthetic centred on a planetary time display. As a result, the Type 8 is substantially more affordable, while instantly recognisable as a Ressence wristwatch. By doing away with a seconds indicator as well as simplifying the case construction, the Type 8 is priced at CHF12,500, or about US$13,500, making it the most affordable watch in the brand’s catalogue. The next most affordable model, the Type 1, costs about 30% more. Initial thoughts Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens once said to me that he wished he could make his watches more accessible, but that was impossible without more economies of scale. Ressence has evidently inched closer to Benoît’s vision, since the Type 8 looks to be an excellent product in both design and execution, while being affordable, at least relative to the brand’s other watches. It sacrifices nothing in terms of aesthetics – the missing seconds but isn’t overly obvious – while still managing to be a Ressence. In fact, the Type 8 case is entirely different from the brand’s other watches, bringing a new form to the brand’s design language. But it fits right into the catalogue and feels no different from the other watches, illustrating the coherence of the design. Type 8C The inaugural version of the model is the Type 8C, which has a grained blue dial. Minutes are indicated on the full dial, while the hours are shown on an “orbita...

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 24, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary

Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...

Introducing the Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time and Culture’ SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time Mar 23, 2022

Introducing the Urwerk UR-100V ‘Time and Culture’

Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei visited Singapore in September 2019 and we had lunch with at the Marriott along Singapore’s Orchard Road, sitting outdoors to enjoy Singapore’s uniquely tropical weather. Thanks to an inspiring afternoon with the pair, it was just after that lunch that I first mooted the idea of a UR-100 with a cover over the front. I sent over this awful mock-up I created on Photoshop, which was clearly inspired by the UR-103, an old favourite of mine. After a back and forth with Felix and Martin, and a few long pauses in between, an idea took shape. In June 2020, I further refined the idea in an email to the pair, “I have an idea of a watch inspired by the ancient Mayan astronaut myth… something like an UR-100, but with metal covering more of the face… with an engraved Mayan pattern…”. The starting point A serious watch with a sense of humour is something that appeals to me, so the rationale for the concept was tongue in cheek: Urwerk makes sci-fi watches, so a Mayan motif was perfect since it was once believed the first person in space was a Mayan astronaut. The myth arose from a misinterpretation of the motif on a Mayan ruler’s sarcophagus (you can find out more about supposed ancient astronaut by reading up on “Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal“). Not long after, I elaborated on the idea and suggested a yellow gold case with an emerald cabochon in the crown. Unfortunately that was not to be (although some green did make it ...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja Time+Tide
Seiko Black Series makes Mar 23, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja

It should come as no surprise that a second round of additions to Seiko’s Black Series have arrived, given the instant success of the first few watches. The series perfectly pulls off that stealthy, tactical look without sacrificing legibility or needing third-party modifications, and the four new watches are each full of character that will … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Black Series makes a welcome return with the stealth of a ninja appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection Mar 23, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre

The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 23, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”

A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience Time+Tide
MB&F; Mar 22, 2022

The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience

Usually the hottest watches of the year have huge launch events, major press conferences and keynotes, and sizable social media and marketing campaigns. But last year, like Beyonce dropping a surprise album, the team at MB&F; introduced one of the most desired timepieces of the year – except it was not a watch just anyone … ContinuedThe post The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Mar 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

Consumers in this day and age are all too familiar with the finished products of watch manufacturers thanks to digital watch media, whether from publications such as ours, social media, or forums. But, it is not always the case that consumers are offered a final product that leverages the origins of its design. To celebrate … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“I promise I don’t have a real Patek.” OK, this is weird, Anthony the Blue Wiggle insists his watches are fake Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Tiffany Blue Mar 22, 2022

“I promise I don’t have a real Patek.” OK, this is weird, Anthony the Blue Wiggle insists his watches are fake

Curiouser and curiouser. Yesterday I posted a story about Anthony “the Blue Wiggle” Field and how he’s been repeatedly spotted wearing the ultimate IT watch, a Patek Philippe Tiffany Blue. The story generated a real buzz on the T+T site as Anthony is, of course, a founding member of the beloved kid’s entertainers, The Wiggles. … ContinuedThe post “I promise I don’t have a real Patek.” OK, this is weird, Anthony the Blue Wiggle insists his watches are fake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Meisterstück Soft Grain Leather: Harnessing The Timeless Luxury Of A Snow-Capped Icon  Quill & Pad
Montblanc Meisterstück Soft Grain Leather Mar 21, 2022

Montblanc Meisterstück Soft Grain Leather: Harnessing The Timeless Luxury Of A Snow-Capped Icon 

Montblanc’s earliest history is in pen making, and each of the lifestyle products that followed – watches, jewelry, leather, fragrance, and more – in some way acknowledges the foundational writing instrument. The new Meisterstück leather collection is no exception, paying very evident respect to the pen whose name it shares as Nancy Olson relates.

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials SJX Watches
Bulgari Marks 10 Years Mar 21, 2022

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials

Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...

The vintage Seiko offering crazy accuracy that’s still flying under the radar Time+Tide
Seiko offering crazy accuracy that’s Mar 20, 2022

The vintage Seiko offering crazy accuracy that’s still flying under the radar

Whilst many will argue as to what exactly constitutes a vintage watch, more and more collectors are looking to include quartz, from analogue to classic LED and LCD models. For myself the pinnacle, and one that remains constantly on my watch list, is the Seiko Twin Quartz.  These watches offer outstanding accuracy, far surpassing most quartz … ContinuedThe post The vintage Seiko offering crazy accuracy that’s still flying under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power Time+Tide
Hublot s signing Mar 20, 2022

Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power

This isn’t going to be a very objective piece, I’m afraid. That’s because I’m a huge admirer of Hublot’s sports-related marketing and their decision to snap up footballing superstar Kylian Mbappé as a brand ambassador is another great example of what they do. Let me explain. Top watch brands are invariably desperate to reinforce their … ContinuedThe post Hublot’s signing of Kylian Mbappé as an ambassador reflects the brand’s sporting power appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre Mar 20, 2022

Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque)

Flicking through the Guinness Book of Records, some achievements leave you furrow-browed with a mix of bewilderment and awe. Whether it’s the “most T-shirts removed while heading a football” (21) or “the world’s tallest hat” (4.8 metres), there’s no denying these are remarkable accomplishments. But while the dedication of such record breakers is beyond reasonable … ContinuedThe post Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra 38mm When Mar 19, 2022

This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm

When a new collection or reference debuts, I always wonder when I will first see it in the wild. Sure we get hands-on at launch events and watch fairs. But that is a spot within the zoo of the industry. I am more curious to see how soon I catch one in the wild, whether … ContinuedThe post This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray Deployant
Longines Legend Diver Mar 19, 2022

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray

Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.