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Fratello
As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
SJX Watches
Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...
Time+Tide
New case, same movement - but how?The post Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Few watch designs offer the freedom to create a series of nearly identical-looking pieces that remain universally appealing, regardless of case size or dial colour. Nomos timepieces, defined by a beautiful simplicity rooted in Bauhaus principles, showcase this versatility nicely… Take for instance the Club Sport series. The sporty line was first introduced in a […]
Worn & Wound
Last month, Patek Philippe launched their first new watch collection in decades: the Cubitus. It was met with, as you’ve surely seen by now, a chorus of widespread skepticism and bewilderment. Ostensibly a replacement for the now discontinued stainless steel Nautilus, the Cubitus borrows the bracelet and dial treatment from that watch, and makes the case square. The consensus seems to be that they turned one of the most elegant luxury sports watches ever made into something ungainly, and they didn’t even take the time to do it in a thoughtful way. Words like “lazy” and “ugly” fill out the diatribes from commenters who disapprove. For me and the rest of the team at Worn & Wound, new releases from Patek Philippe are something of a spectator sport. I can’t speak for all of my colleagues, but feelings about the brand range from lukewarm appreciation for watches that are objectively well made and designed, to a more straight up boredom (that’s me), to some version of the “I don’t think of you at all” Mad Men meme (also me). It’s fair to say, though, that none of us are die hard Patek fans in the same way, for instance, that we follow new releases from brands like, I dunno, Grand Seiko, Christopher Ward, Armin Strom, Garrick, Tudor, and the like. The watches we get excited about span a huge range of accessibility both in terms of price and actual availability. But a good watch is a good watch. This is all to say, it shouldn’t be much of a surprise t...
Fratello
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most surprising moment of the fall auction season in Geneva was when the hammer came down on an MoonSwatch at Christie’s for CHF69,300 including fees – exactly the same as a Rolex GMT-Master II “SARU” that sold later in the day. But as is almost always the case with record prices at auction, there was a story behind the price and a method to the madness. The MoonSwatch was the unique “millionth” example conceived specifically for this auction, where all proceeds went to ELA, a French medical charity. The ELA sale was spearheaded by Francois-Henri Pinault, the chief of Kering, the luxury conglomerate that owns Christie’s, and certainly one of the most influential people in the luxury goods business. Sitting in the room and opening the sale was Mr Pinault’s fellow trustee at ELA, Zinedine Zidane, the French footballer better known as Zizou who’s regarded as one of the all-time best players and coaches. Christie’s auctioneer Rahul Kadakia with Zizou. Image – Christie’s Bidding via phone, the winning bidder of the MoonSwatch – which sold for over 150 times the retail price – announced to the room via a Christie’s rep that his winning bid was for “ELA and Zizou”. It was clearly a statement that he or she would have paid up for whatever watch was on sale, regardless if it was plastic or precious metal. It was a good deed done that was no bearing on the MoonSwatch or watches in general. To the moon MoonSwatch aside, the season was pos...
Time+Tide
The case, the dial, the movement... They are all solid rose gold [insert drool emoji].The post Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...
SJX Watches
Andreas Strehler, known for his complex movements, recruited master engraver Roman Houdek for a collection of floral-themed watches, the Faune et Flore. With each made to order, the timepieces of Faune et Flore are presented in Strehler’s signature ovoid Papillon case and powered by an in-house calibre. The dials are open worked and intricately hand engraved by Mr Houdek. Initial thoughts Though the new line is a departure from the brand’s usual focus on complications, free-hand engraving is no less of an achievement. An art that requires tremendous skill, it is refreshing to see Strehler attempt something different. Elaborate in style, the Faune et Flore departs from Strehler’s traditional aesthetic. While that may not appeal to technical-minded enthusiasts at first glance, the quality of the engraving is easily apparent and complements the case shape. Unsurprisingly given Mr Strehler’s technical talent, the engraved dials are not actually traditional dials. The engraved 18k gold plate serves as a functional bridge for the movement, supporting part of the going train and the two barrels. As a result, there are jewels set into the plate, which form decorative elements in the engraving. Because the engraved plate is functional as well as decorative, this construction requires even more careful work than a conventional engraved dial, in order to ensure the open-worked sections don’t compromise with integrity or flatness of the bridge. That in turn has to be balance...
Hodinkee
The smallest flying tourbillon in the world, in the same compact case as the original L.U.C collection.
SJX Watches
The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...
Monochrome
First presented in 2017, the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 came as a surprise, initiating an unprecedented design for the collection. This highly complex Breguet watch, first available in a platinum case with a blue dial, actually teased the complete revamp of the collection that occurred a year later. Three years later for the 220th […]
Time+Tide
This new limited edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo has a first-ever PVD-blue titanium case and bracelet.The post French artist Laurent Grasso brings his aura to a midnight blue limited edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Zenith stole the headlines in 1969 with the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement, aptly named ‘El Primero’. With less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy watch with an angular octagonal case, groovy orange bakelite bezel, and impressive water-resistance. Nicknamed the ‘vault’, the Defy Plongeur ref. 3648 was a monster of the abyss capable […]
Time+Tide
Designed by MB&F; creative designer Maximilian Maertens, it's the first watch case that doubles as a piece of tasteful home décor.The post The AIS Collective x Maximilian Maertens ChronoSphere is a watch box that doubles as a piece of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
In 2021, Farer introduced its Field Collection. It consisted of three watches, all with the same compact stainless steel case but rather diverse yet colorful dial designs. The common denominator was that they were all inspired by field watches. Now the British-based brand has reintroduced its Field Collection. The Pembroke II, Lomond II, and Exmoor […] Visit Farer Reintroduces Its Field Collection With Updated Colorful Dials And A Slimmer Bezel to read the full article.
Monochrome
Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]
Monochrome
This summer, indie watchmaker Romain Gauthier announced the end of the titanium-case-rubber-strap editions of its contemporary, aesthetically and horologically pleasing C by Romain Gauthier watch line, which was first launched in 2021 as the Continuum and now comprises two sub-collections. The Freedom collection is reserved for titanium-cased watches on straps and titanium bracelets, while the […]
Time+Tide
In case you've wondered what the difference between $500 and $200,000 dials is.The post Best enamel dial watches, from value-oriented microbrands to the haute horlogerie stuff of dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dual crowns, a colourful dial, and a chunky case define the Merion diver.The post The Sternglas Merion twists the Bauhaus idea to its limits appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Many of us know Citizen as a brand that creates affordable and (mostly) quartz powered watches. Often packed with a multitude of complications, in large case sizes, and complex layouts. But there’s another side to the brand as well, one that takes full advantage of the many resources at their disposal to create drool worthy haute horlogerie pieces. Many of their offerings from this high-end sector are limited in production, and they feature some of the most sought after watchmaking craftsmanship desired by enthusiasts and collectors alike. Today we’re taking a look at one of these special offerings which has just been announced in a limited batch of 160 pieces worldwide to celebrate Citizen’s 100th anniversary. This is part of Citizen’s longstanding series of “The Citizen” watches, highlighting the brand’s significant craft accomplishments and their highest end watchmaking. Watches with “The Citizen” designation are flagships for the brand, and often feature intricate case and dial finishing, or uncommon, high-spec movements. Just one quick glance of the press images releases endorphins for most collectors. The dial has an air of whimsy and artistry with its “iceberg” inspired finish, and is clean and simple in layout, with thin applied baton markers. The rather austere design language on display here allows the communication of simplicity to dominate the aura of the watch instead of fixating on one sole function or spec, such as an eye catching tou...
Fratello
During Geneva Watch Days 2024, Gerald Charles announced the exclusive Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30° Anniversario 916 created in collaboration with Italian motorcycle manufacturer Ducati. The watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the legendary Ducati 916 motorcycle. It features Gerald Charles’s well-known Maestro case with a ruby-red vulcanized rubber strap for the occasion. Gerald Charles Maestro […] Visit Hands-On: The Gerald Charles Maestro 4.0 Ducati 30º Anniversario 916 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
I enjoy a good retro-revival, but I especially love it when it’s a super-niche piece like the Girard-Perregaux Casquette. First introduced back in the 1970s, the very cool Casquette was brought back in 2022 in the form of the Casquette 2.0. According to GP, something like 8,000 examples of the original Casquette were produced between 1976 and 1978. That unique driver-style case with LED display was basically unchanged for the 2.0, which came in a slick, black ceramic case. Now, we see the release of a new Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 Titanium and Gold, which I was able to get my hands on and spend some time with. Luxury digital watches are few and far between but I have to say, there is nothing like the Casquette out there. As someone who has seen and handled just about every watch out there, I personally would rather plunk down just shy of five grand on this digital watch over many, many mechanical pieces in that price range. Where the inaugural Casquette 2.0 was done in a black ceramic and bracelet, this new iteration opts for a Grade 5 titanium case with yellow-gold GP logo and pushers and a matching titanium bracelet with rubber lining. It is absolutely insane to see this level of quality and finishing on an LED-display watch, but it sparks so much joy in my heart to see a brand have the guts to do so. The case dimensions are spot-on for a piece that needs some wrist presence to properly convey its vibes. The sleek, angular case measures 42.4mm tall and 33.6mm wi...
Fratello
Welcome to our new series, the Fratello Watch List! I get to kick off this short series of articles exposing some of our writers’ watch hit lists. We all have a (not-so-)little list of references we plan on owning or maybe just dream of acquiring someday, don’t we? In my case, it is a list […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: Thomas’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Lange, Rolex, And Cartier to read the full article.
Fratello
Over the past year, I’ve collected watches from the ’40s and ’50s. Watches with Dennison cases are impossible to avoid when focusing on this early period. The Birmingham, England-based company was a notable case maker for Omega, Longines, and more until its closure in 1967. Today, the name returns with a very different set of […] Visit Hands-On: The Dennison ALD Stone Dials Collection to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New inner case, floating numerals, and a semi-skeletonised movement.The post The Franck Muller Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve ditches Art Deco for modern appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The Seiko Prospex Alpinist Australasia Limited Edition combines rugged functionality with a distinctive design, featuring a dial inspired by the Australian landscape! What We Love: The polished finishing of the case and bezel The red dial has many different layers to it with different patterns and finishing techniques. Great value for money, especially with the increase in power reserve with 6R35 movement and open case back. What We Don’t: The leather strap can be a bit stiff initially Lack of a steel bracelet option for the watch Cyclops date window could be slightly larger to allow for better viewing angles. Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Seiko Alpinist is a timepiece that has gained global recognition for meeting the needs of adventurers. The timepiece has long held a special place in Seiko’s lineup, and it is well known for meeting the needs of mountain climbers and outdoor sports enthusiasts. The Seiko Alpinist was first introduced in 1959, and back then, it was the brand’s first attempt at creating a timepiece specifically designed for mountaineers. During the 1960s and 70s, Japan’s hiking culture was thriving. So Seiko responded by creating a beautiful timepiece that considered what an adventurer’s watch would entail. The timepiece was designed to endure the harsh conditions while still being stylistic! The first Seiko Alpinist released in 1959 was named Laurel Alpinist. The very fi...
Monochrome
Briston is an independent French brand created in 2012. It was founded by industry veteran, Brice Jaunet, who worked with different brands, including Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil and Zenith. Briston offers accessible, sporty-chic watches with a twist. The brand’s quirky designs rely on a cushion-shaped case with the Clubmaster collection, while another of […]
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