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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces May 24, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco “Dark Blue”

In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...

Interview with Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni on the Raison d’Etre of the new Toric: the Art of Dressing Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier May 24, 2024

Interview with Parmigiani CEO Guido Terreni on the Raison d’Etre of the new Toric: the Art of Dressing

Since taking over as CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, Guido Terreni has leaned into the brand’s legacy as a maker of classic dress watches at the level of high watchmaking. Not by making a dramatic statement piece but by doubling down on refinement. Having reintroduced the Tonda, and picking up a GPHG award for it in 2022, Terreni turned his attention to the Toric, the golden-ratio proportioned flagship dress watch that was Michel Parmigiani’s first design.

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Hand-Wound Chronograph Fratello
Oak & Oscar May 23, 2024

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Hand-Wound Chronograph

Chicago-based Oak & Oscar has been in business since 2015. Over the last nine years, the brand has assembled a back catalog of attractive, ruggedly built watches that pay tribute to the Windy City. Furthermore, the timepieces display a design consistency normally reserved for larger, historic brands. Today’s Oak & Oscar Atwood chronograph continues this […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Hand-Wound Chronograph to read the full article.

Serica Introduces the 6190 M.S.L, a New Generation of their Classic Field Watch Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 23, 2024

Serica Introduces the 6190 M.S.L, a New Generation of their Classic Field Watch

It’s hard to believe, but this year marks the fifth anniversary of Serica, one of our favorite small brands to emerge in the affordable, independent watch scene. In a relatively short period of time, Serica has developed a truly distinct design language that bridges the gap between vintage sports watches and casual elegance, often with just a hint of a military inspired aesthetic. They’re really quite unlike any other watch on the market, and yet they’ve always felt immediately familiar. Their newest release, the 6190 M.S.L Chronometer, isn’t exactly a watch made to celebrate the brand’s fifth year of existence, but it’s impossible to see it and not reflect on the path they’ve taken and growth they’ve experienced over the last half decade.  The new 6190 is an updated take on what many fans of the brand would surely say is Serica’s calling card, the simple, military inspired field watch. When the brand launched their very first field watch, it showed promise but was perhaps a little rough around the edges. In the ensuing years, everything about the brand’s output has been slowly and subtly tweaked, and the 6190 feels like a culmination of that constant improvement.  The specs, of course, are more robust than Serica’s watches of five years ago. This, in a lowkey, watch nerd way, is perhaps the most exciting recent development for the brand. Since last year, Serica has made a commitment that all of their watches will be certified as COSC chronometers. ...

Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime Fratello
Raymond Weil May 23, 2024

Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime

The Millesime collection by Raymond Weil took us by surprise when it launched last year. Once in a while, a watch comes along that just seems to work. The design and the execution just click. The Millesime is such a watch. So when Raymond Weil announced new models, I was keen to give them a […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Versions Of The Raymond Weil Millesime to read the full article.

Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series Fratello
Chronoswiss May 21, 2024

Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series

Just two months ago, Chronoswiss announced a new, modern design direction at Watches and Wonders 2024. Don’t worry, hallmark characteristics such as reeded bezels and onion crowns still exist. However, the watches look more contemporary. Today’s three new ReSec Manufacture models continue the theme and bring bold dials for good measure. In late March, Chronoswiss […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss ReSec Manufacture Series to read the full article.

Krzysztof Płonka Built the Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock From Scratch SJX Watches
Casio nally pocket watches are May 20, 2024

Krzysztof Płonka Built the Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock From Scratch

A mechanical engineer by trade, Krzysztof Płonka has been making elaborate clocks since the 1990s in his workshop in southern Poland, specialising in regulator-style standing clocks with astronomical complications. One of his most complex creations is the Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock. Requiring a decade to complete – producing the components took six years and assembly a further four years – the clock is unique proposition that combines classical horology with more modern mechanics. Initial thoughts Large standing clocks are a niche of horology far from the mainstream of wristwatch collection. While wrist (and occasionally pocket) watches are well known to enthusiasts, the best clockmakers and their amazing works are mostly neglected. The Great Astronomical Skeleton Clock is a good example of such a hidden horological gem. It’s both curious in construction and comprehensive in terms of complications, a combination that should interest horologists and engineers alike. Built on a precision movement as the base, the clock features a complete perpetual calendar, sunrise and sunset times for a fixed location and even a sun declination indication. The mechanics are presented in a beautiful woodworked cabinet almost 3 m tall, with large glass panels generously showing the inner workings.   The clock is stark in its open working, with most of the mechanics within on show from all sides. The movement features both classical horological elements and general mechanical c...

Hands-On With The J&Berg; B2 - A Genre-Busting Titanium Sports Watch Fratello
May 19, 2024

Hands-On With The J&Berg; B2 - A Genre-Busting Titanium Sports Watch

I love watches that refuse to stick to a genre and offer a clean-slate perspective that doesn’t look back in time. Going hands-on with the J&Berg; B2, I see both of these qualities and put Finland on the map of microbrand cool. Titanium is very much the material du jour, but I have a conflicted […] Visit Hands-On With The J&Berg; B2 - A Genre-Busting Titanium Sports Watch to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection Worn & Wound
HYT May 16, 2024

HYT Reinvents Itself with the T1 Collection

It’s hard to relaunch a brand. We’ve seen it over and over in the watch industry: brands, in an attempt to reinvigorate themselves, gain more traction in the market, and adapt to changing times, will sometimes make a decision to completely rethink their philosophy, aesthetic, and core models. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, and there are varying levels of intensity in how fully relaunched a brand will actually go. Sometimes the shift is drastic, with new logos, new ideas, new price points, and completely new watches. And sometimes it’s more subtle, representing a small but noticeable and important tweak that fundamentally changes something about the presentation. HYT, a high end Swiss brand that has been through its fair share of tumult recently, debuted a new collection recently that we got a chance to look at during Watches & Wonders week, and it struck me as one of the smartest recalibrations we’ve seen from a brand in a long time.  If you know HYT at all, you know them for their unique time telling system that involves moving liquid around the dial through a pair of bellows that expand and contract throughout the day. There is quite literally nothing else like it on the market, and the watches have always had a half futuristic, half steam-punk vibe to them. There is real horological ingenuity at the heart of HYT, but the watches, in the past, have often been dominated by literally showing you the mechanism in a way that was, to put it bluntly, a bi...

Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream Fratello
May 16, 2024

Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream

Most of us know the young brand Awake from its NASA-approved “Mission To Earth” timepieces from 2022. In particular, the white and red model with its characteristic NASA branding stood out immediately. However, after that, Awake created several collections based on the brand’s modern design signature. The latest addition to the lineup is a bit […] Visit Awake Collaborates With Artist Nicolas Barrome Forgues On The Limited-Edition 01 Titane Dare & Dream to read the full article.

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Centre May 15, 2024

First Look – The New Generation of H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green & Purple Haze

Moser’s Streamliner collection, a luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet, made a resounding entry in 2020 with a Flyback Chronograph. Unlike many luxury sports watches on the market, which vie for attention with their formulaic solutions, Moser’s design was fresh, verging on sensual thanks to its sleek, aerodynamic personality. A few months later, Moser unveiled […]

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
Yema May 15, 2024

Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement

It’s been a little over a year since Yema introduced the current version of the Navygraf. The brand’s Navygraf II from the late ’70s inspired the design of the watch. I had a chance to go hands-on with the Navygraf Marine Nationale GMT last year, and I liked it. The updated style and the great […] Visit Hands-On With The Yema Navygraf Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition - Powered By An In-House Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World Teddy Baldassarre
May 14, 2024

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World

Watchmaking is a trade that goes back to the 16th Century, and building mystique and legitimacy on a long, historical legacy is a common theme we find in many companies that make watches today - particularly those whose roots reach back for a century or more. But which companies have really been making watches the longest? In a way, it’s a sticky question, one that can lead one into a minefield of semantics and trivia. Jaquet Droz, for example, claims a founding date of 1738 but the modern version of the company was established in 2000 when Swatch Group acquired the name. A. Lange & Söhne carries on the tradition of the original company founded in Saxony in 1845 but has really been in operation only since 1990 (and to be fair, the company is very transparent about this). The Swiss-based Graham brand traces its legacy all the way back to the London atelier of British watchmaker George Graham in 1695 but has no connection to it other than design inspiration. In assembling the following list of the oldest watch brands still making watches today, I went with the companies that, in my judgment, can legitimately claim a direct lineage to the original founding, even allowing for ownership changes and periods of dormancy along the way. Without further ado, here is a countdown of the 15 oldest watch brands in the world today; you may be surprised by who is included as well as by who is excluded. 15. Zenith (1865) Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 when he founded...

Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces May 13, 2024

Farer Introduces the Banzare, a Limited Edition GMT with a Textured Dial

We’ve been covering Farer for a long time on Worn & Wound. To say they are a core brand in our little enthusiast corner of the watch world would be an understatement, and it’s been exciting to see them grow, experiment, and further develop their own unique design language. For as long as I’ve been covering the brand, it’s been the colors that have stood out. They have just always had a knack for picking interesting and unusual color combinations. And their typical release strategy underscores that point – they’ll frequently release a handful of watches in the same style at one time, each adopting different color palettes, and thus emphasizing the impact those decisions have on the finished product. Their latest release, the Banzare GMT, is not part of a multi-watch drop, but it does feature a striking new dial texture for the brand in a color that some die hard Farer fans are sure to appreciate.  The GMT has become a signature complication for Farer, probably because it gives the brand a chance to explore colors and contrasts in natural ways. Think of the different elements of the dial that need to be navigated here: the dial itself, the main hour markers, the time telling hands, the GMT hand, the GMT hour scale, the date, the minute track, and we haven’t even gotten to the various wordmarks yet. There’s a real challenge in making sure all of those elements play well together, and it’s something Farer has always excelled at.  The Banzare gets a plum col...

Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph May 13, 2024

Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials

Why have just one good thing if you can have two? The dial of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph shows the brand’s famous Grande Tapisserie pattern and a smoky effect. The 37mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding doesn’t have a three-dimensional effect on the dial but, instead, pairs the graduated effect with a case […] Visit Taking A Bite Of The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph And Frosted Gold Selfwinding With Their Crème Brûlée Dials to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD WatchAdvice
Hamilton Waltham May 12, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD

We go hands on with the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon EOD to see just how robust this tool watch really is! What We Love Its “Bullet Proof” buildThe micro gas lights and lumeIngenious shock-resistant systems What We Don’t The size as it wears larger than the specs suggestMix of titanium and steel feels a little oddThe clasp isn’t as comfortable and could be better designed Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Ball is one of those brands that’s been around for a long while, since 1891 in fact, and probably doesn’t get as much credit as they deserve. Many brands are in the same boat unfortunately, but this is the world we live in. A big part of that is to do with marketing to be honest, and the rest is down to the watches, design, current trends, and culture. It all plays a part. Ball is a brand that was born out of the American railroad era. Similar to other brands that got their start or came to prominence as a result, like Hamilton, Waltham, and others if I can draw that association. For those who aren’t familiar with this era in watchmaking, here’s a very quick history lesson. Back in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s, the United States was going through its industrial revolution. A big part of that was the American railway – all industries relied on this to get supplies for manufacturing, agriculture, building etc from one coast to the other. And this meant that the trains had to run in time and like...