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Results for Tourbillon

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Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.

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H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine Limited Edition: A Ceramic Case Changes Everything

Moser's wildest Streamliner yet pairs a flying tourbillon skeleton with a ceramic case, all under the Alpine F1 banner

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39: The Octagon Gets Its Most Serious Movement Yet

Four new calibers in 12 months. The latest drops a flying tourbillon and a micro-rotor into a 39mm Laureato case, and it looks the part.

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Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM01784: The Softer Side of a Big Complication

A tourbillon, a GMT, and a titanium case walk into a Luminor. The result is more restrained than you'd expect.

Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Contemporain Exits with a Steel Final Edition SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey s Balancier Contemporain Exits Jul 2, 2025

Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Contemporain Exits with a Steel Final Edition

Greubel Forsey bids farewell to what was once its smallest watch, the Balancier Contemporain, with a final edition in stainless steel with a blue dial. The brand aims to finish the run of 33 watches later this year, after which the Balancier Contemporain will be no more, marking the end of its just-under-40 mm case. Notably, this is not a move away from mid-sized watches; in fact, the brand intends to double down on them with future launches. Initial Thoughts When launched in 2019, the Balancier Contemporain was the Greubel Forsey’s smallest watch – relatively speaking. The brand’s quality may be irreproachable, but wearability is another matter – several of its watches are well over 44 mm – and as consumers’ tastes gravitate back to mid-sized watches, Greubel Forsey was arguably in a tricky position with its near pocket-watch-sized calibres. But the brand was prepared for that. Just last year, Greubel Forsey set a new direction with the Nano Foudroyante EWT, a flyback chronograph (and flying tourbillon with lightning seconds) that was just under 38 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm thick. And even before that, the Convexe sports model cases already helped wearability massively – I’d even say the nominally larger Balancier Convexe and Double Balancier Convexe wear better than the Balancier Contemporain. So while the Balancier Contemporain is still a great watch, I’m not sad to see it go. As Greubel Forsey transitions to small-diameter watches, I expect to see it...

Louis Vuitton’s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Journey Around the World SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Jul 2, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Jacquemart Pocket Watches Journey Around the World

Translating as “Stopovers Around the World”, Escale Autour du Monde is Louis Vuitton’s collection of unique and lavish minute repeating pocket watches. The collection now counts two watches: Escale en Amazonie that depicts the heart of the rainforest, while the just-launched Escale Au Pont-Neuf is set just outside Louis Vuttion’s headquarters in Paris. Each timepiece is unique and powered by a new, purpose-built repeating movement with automata, also known as jacquemart, tourbillon, and an eight-day power reserve. Aside from watchmaking complications, the pocket watches also boast elaborate decoration, namely enamel and hand engraving, encapsulating the many crafts and skills possessed by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the Louis Vuitton manufacture in Geneva. The LFT AU14.03 Notably, the Escale Autour du Monde is actually Louis Vuitton’s second haute horlogerie pocket watch offering. The collection follows last year’s Asnières-themed pocket watch that was actually powered by a wristwatch repeater movement. The pocket watches of Escale Autour du Monde retain the same 50 mm diameter as the Asnières but with the LFT AU14.03 calibre within was developed from the ground up as a pocket watch movement. Escale en Amazonie (left), and Escale Au Pont-Neuf Initial thoughts Usually, modern pocket watches either rely on wristwatch movements (like the Escale à Asnières from last year) or near-century-old ebauches completed in the modern day. Louis Vuitton didn’t take th...

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Abraham-Louis Breguet 1747-1823 stands Jun 23, 2025

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...

Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Temporis Jun 20, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s Temporis is a Unique Double Complication

Les Cabinotiers is Vacheron Constantin’s programme dedicated to one-off and special-order watches. The latest to emerge from the workshop is the Les Cabinotiers Temporis Duo Grand Complication Openface, a large, complicated watch with an intricate calibre and an unusually modern, clear sapphire dial. The look is more contemporary than usual for a Les Cabinotiers grand complication, thanks to both the sapphire dial with its off-centre displays and a monochromatic grey finish on the movement. An evolution (and stylistic upgrade) of the solid-dial Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Split-Seconds from 2022, the Temporis is underpinned by a base movement that features a minute repeater and tourbillon; on top sits a traditionally constructed split-seconds chronograph mechanism that is paired with the calibre in an unconventional manner. The layers inside the cal. 2757 S of the Temporis Initial thoughts Twenty twenty-five has been good for Vacheron Constantin in terms of complicated watches – the brand started the year with the Solaria, the most complicated wristwatch ever made, and has followed up with the Temporis. In comparison to the Solaria with 41 functions and a price tag in the mid-millions, the Temporis is simple and affordable, but still impressive. Though it is largely identical in terms of the movement to the 2022 model with a solid dial, the Temporis offers a lot more visually with its open dial. Though the look is modern – compare this to the baroque B...

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Reworks Jun 18, 2025

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Puts Jun 12, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks

Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off  Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons.  The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Teddy Baldassarre
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 9, 2025

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075

The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 7, 2025

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module.  Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only SJX Watches
Breguet s work but Jun 5, 2025

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary Jun 2, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary

Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...

H. Moser & Cie. Launches a Formula 1 Streamliner Duo SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Launches May 30, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. Launches a Formula 1 Streamliner Duo

For its partnership with the Alpine Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. debuts a pair of firsts for the brand: the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition is its first skeletonized chronograph, and the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition is an entirely new model and the brand’s first true smartwatch – not counting the Swiss Alp Watch – with special digital functions tailored to the needs of an F1 team. While the regular production Streamline Flyback Chronograph already has a racing aesthetic, it’s been dialed up to match to the Alpine team colors, with the blue-coated steel case being notable. And the digital Streamliner is more than just a commemorative watch. Most Formula 1 sponsorships are just that, but Moser decided it wanted to contribute a tool the team can rely on during the season, just as mechanical watches were decades ago. Both will be sold as a set, though the smartwatch will be available individually to owner’s of the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”. Initial Thoughts Nothing is off the table for Moser, whose past “concept” watches included a watch made from a cheese-filled composite, one covered in living plants, and the infamous Swiss Icons watch. Even with that in mind, a smartwatch is unexpected, though it makes sense given the brand’s stated goals with the collaboration. Referring to the smartwatch, Chief executive Edouard Meylan says “we wanted to create a measuring instrument that meets the demands of a Formula 1 team,...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier May 23, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph in Crystallized Titanium

Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...

The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025) Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Patek Philippe May 19, 2025

The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025)

When we talk about "the Holy Trinity of Watches" or "Holy Trinity of Swiss Watchmaking," or "the Big Three," most of us watch aficionados agree on which watchmakers we're referring to: Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet (that would be in ascending order of age). How did this triumvirate of historical maisons - one of which has been making watches since before the 19th Century, two of which remain family-owned - ascend to the highest echelons of prestige in the eyes of the watch connoisseur community? Each has its own intriguing history and can claim its own milestones in the evolution of modern watchmaking. Here, we briefly tell each of their stories and spotlight some of the timepieces that have made them immortal.  PATEK PHILIPPE Founded: 1839; Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland; Ownership: Stern Family; Notable models: Calatrava, Nautilus, Aquanaut, Sky Moon Tourbillon Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestone...

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s First Chiming Sports May 13, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s First Chiming Sports Watch, the Overseas Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin (VC) continues its 270th anniversary festivities with its first minute-repeating sports watch, the Overseas Grand Complication Openface. In addition to the repeater, the manually wound movement also features a perpetual calendar, tourbillon, and rear-facing power reserve indicator. All of this is housed in a titanium case rated to 30 m, which is a notable degree of water resistance for a chiming watch. This is also the first Overseas model with the “Openface” treatment, which pays homage to rock crystal dials found in vintage clocks and pocket watches with a clear sapphire dial exposing the perpetual calendar works. Image – Vacheron Constantin Initial Thoughts It’s unusual, but a chiming sports watch makes sense considering the direction of consumer preferences for complications. That said, the minute repeater has been slow to make its way into sports watches, despite enjoying renewed popularity for the past few decades, due to the challenges of waterproofing the charging slide and preserving sound quality. This has created a perception of water resistance and sound being mutually exclusive, which has only recently been challenged. Audemars Piguet was an early pioneer with water-resistant repeaters, and now Vacheron Constantin has entered the fray with a water-resistant minute-repeating integrated-bracelet sports watch of its own. While 30 m of water resistance is low compared to other models in the Overseas collection, it’s significant for a ...

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Launches May 13, 2025

A Minute Repeater You Can Take for a Swim: Vacheron Constantin Launches the Overseas Grand Complication Openface

Another day, another cool Vacheron Constantin release. Barely a month on from Watches & Wonders (where I will remind you, Vacheron dropped the most complicated wristwatch ever made), the iconic brand, currently celebrating its 270th anniversary, has released another high complication heater - a skeleton dial, perpetual calendar, minute repeater with tourbillon dressed up as a titanium Overseas. Coming into 2025, it was pretty clear to see that Vacheron was ready to make some noise. For one thing, the brand was (as I mentioned) celebrating its 270th birthday, something the marketing folks at Vacheron have not been shy about, but more than that, the brand has been on a pretty incredible run over the last few years. Even without the cover of an anniversary year, recent new releases from Vacheron Constantin have increasingly been greeted as objects of interest, both in a technical and cultural sense, and there’s a real feeling that someone at Vacheron HQ clearly knows what they’re doing. The new Overseas Grand Complication Openface is an objectively impressive offering. Measuring in at 44.5mm across and 13.1mm thick in grade 5 titanium (a material also seen in last year’s Overseas tourbillon) this latest Overseas does feature slightly reworked case proportions, with a narrower bracelet relative to its smaller siblings and what looks to me to be a slightly longer lug to lug and thinner bezel, relative to its admittedly larger case size. The watch is also water resistant...

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1” SJX Watches
Breguet Sympathique From May 7, 2025

In-Depth: The Breguet Sympathique, From the Duc d’Orléans to “No. 1”

This spring, one of the most important horological creations of the late twentieth century returns to public view. As part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI taking place on May 10 and 11, Phillips will offer the Breguet Sympathique No. 1, the first of twenty exceptional clocks commissioned by Breguet in the early 1990s. The primary creator of this landmark clock was none other than Francois-Paul Journe, then a young watchmaker. Completed in 1991 for the Art of Breguet auction, No. 1 is not just the prototype of the modern Sympathique series, it is its most ambitious. The example, paired with a tourbillon wristwatch, is equipped with a constant-force remontoir and moonphase display. In retrospect, it reads as a mechanical manifesto, foreshadowing Journe’s later independent work. More than a highlight of its upcoming sale, No. 1 represents a rare continuation of one of watchmaking’s great inventions, a direct link to Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. Detail of Sympathique no. 1 Of Breguet’s many breakthroughs, from the tourbillon to the pare-chute, none captured the marriage of mechanical brilliance and poetic vision quite like the Pendule Sympathique. Designed to wind, set, and regulate a paired watch automatically, it embodied a new kind of horological harmony: a master timekeeper caring for its portable counterpart. The calendar on Sympathique no. 1 By the late 20th century, these clocks had become near-mythical. Only a handful were ever built, most housed in royal coll...

Up Close: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT Twenty-twenty-four May 5, 2025

Up Close: Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT

Twenty-twenty-four marked Greubel Forsey’s 20th anniversary, an occasion celebrated with their first chronograph, the Nano Foudroyante EWT. The brand’s tenth “Fundamental Innovation” since its founding back in 2004, the Nano Foudroyante EWT is a flyback chronograph with a flying tourbillon and an independent micro-scale lightning seconds, or foudroyante. The watch marked many firsts for the brand. Aside from being Greubel Forsey’s first chronograph, it is also the brand’s first flying tourbillon – noteworthy given its longtime focus on the tourbillon. Despite its extensive history with innovative tourbillon constructions, Greubel Forsey (GF) has never before created one with a flying architecture.  Initial thoughts GF is often regarded as among the best in terms of innovative watchmaking and artisanal chronometry. Although the brand’s styling can arguably be too much at times, its core signature of high-end horology is unmistakable and defined by exemplary finishing and exceptional engineering in equal measure.  The Nano Foudroyante EWT is interesting in many respects. The combination of complications is unusual, even for GF, and feels like more of a conceptual platform to present the “nano” sized lightning seconds (that runs independently of the chronograph). That said, execution is typical of GF in being high quality all around. It is a perfect example of the brand’s approach to watchmaking, both decoration- and engineering-wise. Similarly, the ae...

Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos) Worn & Wound
Breguet Celebrates 250 Years Apr 24, 2025

Breguet Celebrates 250 Years with a Tribute to a Watch from 1797 (w/ Hands-On Photos)

If you’re into watches, then you’re into Abraham-Louis Breguet. One of the founders of modern horology, his innovations set the course of the industry and remain relevant. Whether that’s in terms of his inventions like the tourbillon, the gong-spring, his signature overcoil, self-winding, or shock protection, to name but a few, or in marketing and selling his timepieces, his contributions set many standards. Of these listed, however, marketing and selling seem the least interesting, and yet, Breguet’s “Souscription” model and the watches created as a result, have served as inspiration for several of the modern Breguet brand’s most iconic timepieces. In 2005, the brand launched the Tradition line, bringing escapements to the dial of a wristwatch, and now, the Classique Souscription 2025, celebrating the company’s 250th anniversary. The Souscription concept is one we are all very familiar with, if a slightly different take that suited the times. Upon ordering one of Breguet’s Souscription pieces, a quarter of the total price was paid to cover the parts. A deposit, if you will. The watch was made, and the remaining three-quarters were sent to acquire it. Sounds familiar, though typically we don’t fund the making of individual watches (though sometimes we do). A highly successful campaign that was advertised via a pamphlet, another innovation, it is said that around 700 watches were produced using this model. The concept wasn’t just a method of payment, b...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 15, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Most Complicated Wristwatch, Ever

If you were to sit me down at a desk and ask me to write down 41 watch complications off the top of my head, I think the result would be rather like Ross Geller trying to name the 50 states in that one episode of Friends. There’s just no way I could do it. Forty-one is an absurd number of complications to even conceive of, let alone cram into one surprisingly wearable watch. And yet, that is what Vacheron Constantin’s one-of-a-kind watchmaking department, Les Cabinotiers, has managed to do. Just about a year after introducing the world’s most complicated watch of any kind - a pocket watch containing 63 complications - Vacheron has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.’ It’s hard to know where to start with a watch like this, especially since I haven’t had the opportunity to see it in person, so to begin, I’ll just say this: I am wildly impressed by this watch, and you should be too. It’s a serious step up from their previous most complicated wristwatch - the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600, which housed 23 complications. It’s worth saying here that, even before getting to the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, Vacheron Constantin had a very good Watches & Wonders. The brand is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year and they’ve done a hell of a job with it. Their new 127-piece limited edition Traditionelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, with its novel movement and ann...

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection Worn & Wound
H. Moser Goes “Pop” Apr 4, 2025

H. Moser Goes “Pop” with their New Stone Dial Collection

It’s well understood at this point that stone dials are experiencing a renaissance in all corners of the watch market. In fact, it might almost be kind of boring to point this out as we continue to see new spins on these dials released on an almost weekly basis. So it would be tempting to say that H. Moser is jumping on the stone dial bandwagon with their new Pop collection, the centerpiece of their Watches & Wonders 2025 strategy. But I don’t think that’s quite fair. Moser, for their part, has been ahead of the curve on stone dials. They’ve released a handful of extremely limited watches with dials crafted from jade, falcon’s eye, and other stones in recent years. And with the Pop collection watches, they’ve done something genuinely creative, combining multiple stones in each dial in unexpected ways across three different models.  The Pop collection exists in the Endeavour line, and makes use of all three watches on the platform: the Endeavour Small Seconds, Endeavour Tourbillon, and Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept. There are six groups of three watches, each making use of a combination of two stones. The stone pairings are Burmese jade and pink opal, lapis lazuli and lemon chrysoprase, and turquoise and coral. Each pairing is executed in two ways, with one stone being dominant in each. So, for example, there’s a Small Seconds model with Burmese jade in the main dial and pink opal in the sub seconds, and another with the opposite. For the tourb...

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary Worn & Wound
Hublot Drops Apr 2, 2025

Hublot Drops a Set of Unique Pieces to Celebrate the Big Bang Anniversary

If $1 million were dropped in your lap tomorrow, what would you do with it? It’s an age-old question (okay, maybe not age-old), one that has driven endless late-night discussion and at least one surprisingly popular ‘90s Canadian rock song. Most of us have some version of an answer to the question, and Hublot has come along to offer up one solution for one lucky Big Bang enthusiast. As part of their celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Big Bang, Hublot has produced a hell of a collector’s set - the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary “Materials and High Complications” Unique Set. What does that mean? Well, it’s pretty much what it says on the tin. Hublot has, through a collection of five piece unique watches, built a collection of Big Bangs that does a pretty cohesive job of summing up the last two decades of Big Bang into one illuminated case. And for the very reasonable price of - cue Doctor Evil - $1 million dollars (well, really 1 million CHF, so about $1,099,000 US) it can all be yours. Inside this extreme collector’s set, you’ll find five Hublot Big Bangs, each of which combines a ‘high complication’ feature set with a case executed in some modern material or another. Moving through the collection, you’ll find a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a red and black ceramic case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in a transparent sapphire case, a Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph in a Water Blue Sapphire case, a Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Ca...