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Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Aug 4, 2023

Review: the Zenith Defy Skyline in Black Ceramic

For fans of the Zenith Defy, it’s practically impossible not to compare the new Skyline models to the now retired Classic references. As a self described Defy fan, I’ve found myself doing this on a routine basis whenever I get a chance to handle a newer reference. I’ve long held that the Defy, over the years, is pound for pound the very best sports watch line out there. The watches in this collection are adventurous in their design, inherently robust, and naturally distinctive in a sea of sports watches that kind of all look alike. From the very beginning, the Defy has been a trailblazer, something truly unique, but frequently overlooked in favor of watches that it clearly influenced along the way.  Zenith’s release strategy with the Defy almost begs for comparison between generations. The Defy Classic, after being issued in titanium with both solid and skeletonized dials, was made in a trio of ceramic models (black, white, and blue) with skeletonized dials. Similarly, the Skyline was introduced in steel first, was eventually given a skeletonized dial, and finally at this year’s Watches & Wonders we got a ceramic version on a full ceramic bracelet, with both the star motif dial seen here, and a skeletonized version similar to the one reviewed earlier this year by Blake right here. No colored ceramic Defy Skylines have been released yet, but it’s easy to see the similarities between Defy generations. There definitely appears to be a roadmap. And yet, after spen...

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Nomos Gets Aug 4, 2023

The Sportiest Nomos Gets an Update with a New Size and Two New Dial Colors

Any watch enthusiast who has been around the corner once or twice has no doubt discovered Nomos, Germany’s worst-kept secret in distinctive design and excellent quality and finishing for its price. Nomos’ unapologetically Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic may not be for everyone, but it’s easy to admire how far this Glashütte-based watchmaker has come in just over three decades. Today we look at the Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38, a watch that is new inside and out. The Ahoi is the sportiest line in the catalog, which admittedly isn’t saying much. But it does have crown guards and 200m of water resistance, considered by Nomos as “suitable for diving.” To that end, the winding stem features a red ring that is only visible when the crown is unscrewed, a reminder that full water resistance is only guaranteed when the crown is entirely secure. The case is pleasantly thin at 9.9mm thanks to a new movement – more on that in a moment. And the lug-to-lug distance has been reduced to 48.7mm, compared to 51mm on the standard Ahoi. Other nice details include a contrasting orange second hand, double-sided anti-reflective coating on the domed crystal, and a waterproof textile strap suitable for diving. Inside, the new Ahoi is powered by the DUW 6101 for the first time. Developed by Nomos and introduced in 2018 with the Neomatik line, this caliber is both beauty and brains. The rotor and bridges get some love with ribbing polish and perlage, and the movement utilizes Nomos’ re-imagine...

New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more Time+Tide
Christopher Ward Aug 4, 2023

New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more

We are really feeling the heat of summer in the Northern hemisphere, and it seems that the watch industry feels the same. Compared to last week, this one has been rather quiet as far as new watch releases – which makes sense considering most people in Europe are taking holidays. However, some long-awaited timepieces, especially … ContinuedThe post New releases from Tissot, Christopher Ward and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10 Time+Tide
Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming Aug 4, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10

At Watches & Wonders, Zenith overhauled their Pilot’s watch and debuted a new collection of Pilot Automatic and Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph watches. While most, when it comes to Zenith, think of the Defy and Chronomaster collections, they also have rich roots within the realm of Pilot’s watches. This is why a new pop-up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Zenith Pilot pop-up exhibit coming to NYC from August 8 to September 10 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8-Bit Nostalgia – Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Aug 3, 2023

8-Bit Nostalgia – Introducing the AVI-8 Flyboy Capcom 1942 Automatic Limited Edition

If you were to stop and think of an iconic video game from your childhood, assuming you were an early millennial, one of a handful of characters or series might first come to mind. Mario, Sonic, Mortal Kombat, etc. While making a watch inspired by any of those major franchises would certainly draw a dedicated customer base, it wouldn’t be a surprising thing to do. This is why I got very excited when I learned that AVI-8 was collaborating with Capcom to create a watch inspired by 1942. 1942 was first released, apparently, in 1984. I too was released that year, but I only played it for the first time, as memory serves, in an arcade at a hotel I was staying at with my family. I was likely five or six. I played it for what felt like hours, though given that I was spending my parent’s quarters, it was likely a lot less. Regardless, I was obsessed. I had dreams about it, neigh, nightmares. I later discovered I could rent it for my Nintendo at the local video store (feeling old yet?) and the obsession continued. You see, unlike the typical side-scrolling platform games of the day, which I wasn’t very good at, 1942 was a vertical-scrolling shooter. Your fighter plane was always firing, and you swayed left and right to avoid incoming ammunition. There were powerups, big bosses, levels with ships, and other stuff that I just found epically exciting at the time. It was a fun game. But, what it lacked was a central character. An iconic central figure to idolize, save a little an...

Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko Worn & Wound
Seiko One Aug 3, 2023

Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko

One of the most satisfying feelings as a watch enthusiast is setting your watch to a new time zone during travel. What could be better than that? Having a dedicated hand to track another timezone, of course. Watches with GMT functionality are both fun and useful, especially during travel. Of course you can also use the feature to track the other team you work with on the opposite coast, but let’s keep it fun. Today in the shop, we’re happy to bring three new Seiko GMT watches into the mix. The SSK011 and SSK009 are both in the Presage family of watches, while the SFK003 is a fully dive-capable Prospex. Let’s take a closer look. One of the most satisfying feelings as a watch enthusiast is setting your watch to a new time zone during travel. What could be better than that? Having a dedicated hand to track another timezone, of course. Watches with GMT functionality are both fun and useful, especially during travel. Of course you can also use the feature to track the other team you work with on the opposite coast, but let’s keep it fun. Today in the shop, we’re happy to bring three new Seiko GMT watches into the mix. The SSK011 and SSK009 are both in the Presage family of watches, while the SFK003 is a fully dive-capable Prospex. Let’s take a closer look. The post Now In The Shop: Track Multiple Time Zones With New GMT’s From Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph Aug 2, 2023

[VIDEO] A First-Look at the Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph

We were thrilled to see Seiko return to the Speedtimer in Solar Chronograph form earlier this summer, recalling the design of the iconic Sportura of the ‘90s. The concept is a deconstructed chronograph, and Seiko has brought all the components under a single crystal with this newest Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. There is a dizzying array of activity on the watch when the timer is brought to life, and in this video we’re breaking everything down in a first look. Keep an eye out for the full review coming soon.  The case and bracelet of the most recent Speedtimer could be called traditional in comparison to the original, making the somewhat large footprint quite wearable thanks to the curved and truncated lug design. Still, this isn’t a watch for the faint of heart. Switching modes is like putting a race car into full tilt, with all the needles neatly aligning at 12. This watch is capable of timing down to 1/100th of a second, and seeing that totalizer in action is otherworldly in the best possible way. There are four references of the new Speedtimer collection, two of which will be regular production models, with the other two enjoying limited edition status. The black on black dial, as well as the panda dial are welcome regular additions to the growing Prospex tool watch empire, while the other two examples bring a slightly different visual to the mix thanks to unique colorways and texture pairings.  At first blush, the new Speedtimer captures a bit of the ...

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet Teddy Baldassarre
Ulysse Nardin Aug 2, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Review: A Complete Guide to the King of Marine Chronomet

Since its founding in 1846, Ulysse Nardin has long been regarded as the standard bearer of nautical timekeeping, a historic watchmaking maison whose very name conjures up romantic images of seagoing adventure and oceanic exploration. However, here in the 21st century, Ulysse Nardin is also known in watch connoisseur circles as one of the most technically innovative and boldly experimental watchmakers on the scene, beginning with the bombshell introduction of the Freak in 2001. How did this intriguing brand achieve both these distinctions and how does it continue to pile up accolades in the modern era? Read on for a complete guide to the history, evolution, and diverse timepiece portfolio of today’s Ulysse Nardin. Foundations in Chronometry Like many inhabitants of Switzerland’s Jura Mountain region in the 18th and 19th centuries, Léonard-Frédéric Nardin took up the trade of watchmaking largely out of economic necessity, to supplement his family’s farming income during the cold, snowbound winter months. He passed that horological savoir faire on to his son, Ulysse, who proved to be an apt pupil and honed his own horological skills further under the tutelage of two of the region’s most talented and revered watchmakers, Frederic-William Dubois and Louis JeanRichard-dit-Bressel. In 1846, at the young age of 23, Ulysse Nardin (above) established his own watchmaking workshop in his hometown of Le Locle, where the eponymous company is still headquartered today. Ulysse ...

TikTok is going crazy about people wearing Apple watches at weddings Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

TikTok is going crazy about people wearing Apple watches at weddings

Wear your watch on your left wrist. Don’t pair a diving watch with a tuxedo. Match the colour of your watch strap with the leather of your shoes… There are plenty of purported “watch rules”, most of which are widely ignored (often with some justification). But now there’s a niche issue that’s getting people on … ContinuedThe post TikTok is going crazy about people wearing Apple watches at weddings appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 2024 Paris Olympics are One Year Away, and Omega is Celebrating with a Special Edition Seamaster Worn & Wound
Omega Aug 2, 2023

The 2024 Paris Olympics are One Year Away, and Omega is Celebrating with a Special Edition Seamaster

It’s a fact of life in the watch world that every big brand is going to leverage corporate partnerships, celebrity endorsements, product placements, and other various synergies to get their name, and watches, out into the public square. I’ve always been fascinated by how watches are marketed and sold to us, and there’s one brand in particular that has been particularly adept at familiarizing the public with their product in a very specific, high level way. Omega seems to be everywhere. They have arguably the most famous celebrities in the world on their billboards (George Clooney and Nicole Kidman top the list), they’re part of one of the biggest film franchises of all time, and, oh yeah, there’s that whole bit about the moon landing. I guess a watch was involved? Anyway, they seem to have a presence in every corner of the culture that is watch adjacent, and nowhere, in my opinion, does it make more sense than their long standing relationship with the Olympics.  We’re a year out from the 2024 summer games in Paris, France, and Omega is taking the opportunity to remind us of this particular partnership with the release of a watch meant to start the countdown to next year’s games, the Seamaster 300M “Paris 2024” Special Edition. What we have here is an execution of the current generation Seamaster Diver 300M in stainless steel, on a bracelet, with a white ceramic wave pattern dial and a Moonshine Gold timing bezel. The watch has a resemblance to another re...

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Flies Aug 1, 2023

TAG Heuer Flies the French Motorsport Colors with Limited Edition Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue

A surefire way to know if a watch brand has a design that can withstand the test of time is instant recognizability. There’s no need to have the brand name positioned front and center because its unique styling and distinguishable silhouette are more than enough. From across the room, there’s no mistaking the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its square case, left-hand-drive crown and dual sub-register display immediately fires the synapses in our watch nerd brains. Throw in the Hollywood fame and a namesake that represents one of the most famous racing circuits in all of motorsports, then you have a watch that arguably cements its place on the Mount Rushmore of watches. The TAG Heuer Monaco remains as a platform for the brand to explore their avant garde ways, as well as to lean into their rich heritage and connection to motorsport across the world. With the latter in mind, TAG Heuer has announced the Monaco Chronograph in Racing Blue inspired by French motorsport liveries. French racing blue can trace its presence on the racing grid back to race cars such as the CD Panhard LM64 and the Bugatti Type 35 Grand Prix Racer to present day with the Alpine Endurance Team. The saturated shade of azure is now incorporated into the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph through its signature rounded-corner sub-register display. As a part of automotive color theory, designers are tasked with bringing inanimate objects to life and simultaneously making them look fast in the process. That’s a noticeable ...

Photo Report: Diving Lake Michigan with Benrus and the New Ultra-Deep Worn & Wound
Aug 1, 2023

Photo Report: Diving Lake Michigan with Benrus and the New Ultra-Deep

During the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago this year Benrus took the opportunity to introduce a familiar dive watch to their expanding collection, with a re-issue of the classic Ultra-Deep. The small watch made a big impression on a select group of divers who were given the opportunity to explore a shipwreck east of Chicago under the crisp waves of Lake Michigan with the watch in tow. A similar dive expedition took place during the fair in Chicago last year as well, which makes this something of a tradition unfolding. We weren’t in the water this year with the divers, but were on hand to witness them at work, and see some of the watches worn in action, including the new Benrus Ultra-Deep.  I see and deal with plenty of dive watches here at Worn & Wound, heck I own enough to create a private special forces squad of sorts, but the act itself always falls into slightly conceptual territory, as I am not a certified diver. That will be changing soon, however, in large part thanks to my experiences on this trip. Witnessing the gear-centric commotion felt strangely foreign apart from the very familiar watches that took their places right alongside high-tech dive computers. One takeaway here is that there is a lot of gear involved in diving. I could barely identify anything beyond the facemasks and knives, presenting a bevy of eye candy for a curious newcomer. Seeing how mechanical watches fit into this context was an eye opening experience, especially compared to the marketing ma...

Fears Adds a New Mallard Green Dial Variant to the Brunswick Line as a Boutique Exclusive Worn & Wound
Fears Jul 31, 2023

Fears Adds a New Mallard Green Dial Variant to the Brunswick Line as a Boutique Exclusive

Fears is celebrating the one year anniversary of the opening of their flagship showroom in Bristol, England with the release of a pair of watches in Mallard Green, a color that has never been used on a regular production Fears watch before. This release marks what the brand says will be the beginning of a new “Boutique Editions” collection that will expand to every future model in the Fears catalog.  The first watches in the Boutique Editions collection are the Brunswick 38 and Brunswick 40, two representations of the classic cushion cased design that is at the core of the Fears design language. The dark green color used for the new dials is based on the tones seen on the mallard drake duck, and has hints of gray and blue that give the green an additional depth. The finishing process for these dials involves a silver galvanic coating being applied prior to the hand painting of each individual dial with a translucent varnish. Fears says that green pigment is added a drop at a time to achieve the desired tone. The dials also have a sunburst finish which is designed to catch light in interesting ways, and showcase the depth of the green tones.  The dial layout differs slightly from the 38mm watch to the 40mm version. The larger watch is effectively a sector dial design, with an outer ring for the Arabic numerals and minute track in a high contrast white. The inner section has a very subtle “micro guilloche” pattern that contrasts with the outer portion, which is giv...

Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar Worn & Wound
Maen Jul 31, 2023

Hands-On: the MAEN Brooklyn 36 Triple Calendar

I have to start this review by being honest about something: I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about calendar watches. I just don’t.  When I think “calendar watch,” for some reason that I can’t quite put my finger on, my mind jumps to “perpetual calendar,” even though a watch with a simple date function is also technically a calendar watch as well. My curse, I guess, is that I immediately start thinking about a complication that is, for the most part, completely out of my reach. So when someone says there’s a cool new calendar watch to check out (I can count on one hand the number of times this has actually happened) I’m usually less interested than if someone were to, for example, suggest we go out and get dumplings at the Chinese restaurant down the street, or go see Oppenheimer for a second time, or some combination of those two things.  The other problem, because I tend to associate the very idea of calendar watches with the most complex watches in production, is that when talk turns to calendars, I think of very expensive service costs. A local watch friend once owned a vintage triple calendar made by one of the most respected and admired Swiss brands. It broke, and the bill was, how can I put it this…kind of brutal. Again, not something I want in my life.  This line of thinking, of course, is deeply unfair, and a bias that I freely admit and am trying to break out of. A new watch from MAEN, a Swedish brand with a Dutch name, reminded me rece...

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa Time+Tide
Raketa Jul 31, 2023

From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa

Despite what some marketing departments would have you think, there’s almost never such a thing as a centuries-old watch brand with an unbroken history. Whether it’s a change of ownership, bankruptcy during the Quartz Crisis, or a pivot to an entirely different technology, consistent survival as a watch brand requires adaptation. Raketa don’t come up … ContinuedThe post From emperors to astronauts - the colourful history of Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

MICRO MONDAYS: Helicon paints the sunset with the 62 Master Blue Hour Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Helicon paints the sunset with the 62 Master Blue Hour

You could say there are one of a few ways to make a dive watch stand out – a unique design, a superior movement, an unbeatable price/value ratio, or all of the above. Unfortunately, unique often means expensive, even though the brand cannot always truly justify the why. Often, it’s the fact that something is … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Helicon paints the sunset with the 62 Master Blue Hour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback

It wasn’t so long ago that exhibition casebacks were reserved for either exquisite pieces of high horology or oddities like the Ernest Borel kaleidoscope watches. Mechanical watchmaking was either the norm or old-fashioned, so the only times people wanted to stare at a mechanical movement was when it had something special to show off. It’s … ContinuedThe post Making the case: Solid casebacks need to make a comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.