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Introducing – The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G is Back with an Ivory Lacquered Dial Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524G is Back with an Ivory Lacquered Dial

Vintage pilot watches have soared in popularity with remakes of legitimate aviator watches by historical brands and look-alikes by countless others. However, when Patek Philippe introduced its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 during Baselworld 2015, it caught everybody off guard. Presented in white gold with a blue dial and pushers on the left, the […]

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets Fratello
Cartier Tank À Guichets I Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets

I am always torn between the Tank Basculante and the Tank à Guichets when it comes to picking my favorite rectangular Cartier. No, come to think of it, I am not torn at all. The Cartier Tank à Guichets is my favorite by some margin. Well, lucky me! Today, we see the reintroduction of arguably […] Visit Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets to read the full article.

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 & SLGB003 (With Finally a Micro-Adjustment Clasp) Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 Mar 31, 2025

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA SLGB001 & SLGB003 (With Finally a Micro-Adjustment Clasp)

When talking about vintage Grand Seiko watches, some references or acronyms have a lot of meaning. For instance, 44GS refers to one of the most important models ever, the watch that initiated the Grammar of Design and the shape of all subsequent creations. The acronym VFA also has its importance. Standing for Very Fine Adjusted […]

Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection Fratello
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection Mar 31, 2025

Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection

If last May’s TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith announcement left you yearning for a regular-production retro-inspired collection, then today is your lucky day. The new Formula 1 Solargraph collection is here, and I think it goes a long way toward satisfying the legions of fans asking for a return to the colorful good old […] Visit Boom! The New TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph Collection to read the full article.

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller SJX Watches
Rolex Land-Dweller Mar 31, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch Mar 31, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways.  Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch.  The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...

NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos Worn & Wound
Norqain Launches New Independence Skeleton Mar 31, 2025

NORQAIN Launches New Independence Skeleton Chronos

After last year’s success in launching the Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm, NORQAIN will be unveiling two new additions to this line-up for Watches and Wonders: purple and jade. Now, you may recall that there was already a purple Skeleton Chrono in September of 2024, but this one we’re told is slightly different – and not limited to just a 300-piece production. As the name suggests for these models, NORQAIN has continued its offering of high-end timepieces with a little peek under the hood, so to speak, with a skeletonized dial. While this may be a rugged watch that’s meant to be put to use, seeing the delicate pieces just underneath the sapphire crystal remind us of why we love this hobby. In terms of appearance and material, both new models feature Grade 5 titanium cases, weighing in at just 94 grams. For the purple version, the titanium complements the deep purple accents and rubber strap for a sporty look. As for the jade version, there is a DLC coating for a more sombre look that nicely contrasts the richness of the green rubber strap.  The Independence Skeleton Chrono 42mm is equipped with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a running seconds indicator, and a fly-back function. In terms of movement, both models run on an NORQAIN 8K Manufacture Calibre (NK24/1) with a 62-hour power reserve, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. Both new references in the Skeleton Chrono 42mm will be showcased during Watches & Wonders and you can expect h...

Introducing – The New Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution Four-Axis Tourbillon Monochrome
Jacob & Co. Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The New Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution Four-Axis Tourbillon

Jacob & Co. this year celebrates 10 years since the launch of the Astronomia collection, which comprises some of the craziest, oversized and overjewelled (like in diamonds), overperforming creations that are also mechanically complex and provide the owner, apart from other pleasures, with a true dance of arms, sub-dials and rotating stones… And, of course, […]

Czapek Unveils a New Tourbillon in a Redesigned Antarctique Worn & Wound
Czapek Unveils Mar 31, 2025

Czapek Unveils a New Tourbillon in a Redesigned Antarctique

As a writer and a dabbler in watercolors, I can say that there is nothing more exciting than a blank canvas. I’m happy to say that Czapek seems to agree. According to CEO Xavier de Roquemurel, their sporty Antarctique has long been seen as a blank canvas to showcase the talents under the maison. Enter the Antarctique Tourbillon. At its core, it’s a tension between the avant-garde and the traditional, making for a watch that toes the line perfectly between sophisticated and playful. To achieve this, Czapek designed an all-new pattern called Singularité, named after the astronomical phenomenon where the laws of physics begin to break down – like that of a black hole. This is a bit of a tongue-in-cheek name for the technique used to describe the Singularité design. It may look deceptively simple – like a black hole – but in reality it’s a mixture of technique, artistry, and precision to create the pattern, which has no one starting point, unlike traditional guilloché.  The case’s design, too, belies the technical precision needed to create something so simple. The case of the Antarctique Tourbillon has been redesigned to echo the curvilinear aesthetic of the dial. To achieve this, the front and back sapphire crystals have been raised a tiny bit, giving the impression on the reverse side that there is no bezel. Thanks to bridge design that gives the whole dial an airy feel, the wearer is left with the impression that components are floating in mid air. All of...

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph

The mono-pusher chronograph has become a signature complication for De Bethune and Denis Flageollet. The DB1, the brand’s first watch in 2002, was a monopusher chrono using the movement developed by THA. It was followed by several other mono-pusher chronographs among which the DB8 in 2003, the DB28 Maxichrono in 2014 and the DB Eight […]

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Gerald Charles Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Jumping Hour 25th-Anniversary Edition

The Gerald Charles brand was founded by the legendary designer Gérald Genta in 2000, with backing from the Zivani family. After the designer’s death in 2011, Federico Zivani set about reviving the brand and has since created a solid collection of watches around the idiosyncratic yet immediately recognisable Maestro case. Celebrating 25 years of the […]

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Mar 31, 2025

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif

As is tradition for F.P. Journe, the unique creation made for the most recent Only Watch has now evolved into a regular production watch, the Chronomètre Furtif, that has the same dimensions and movement, but an entirely different material and style. The Chronomètre Furtif is striking, all-black sports watch that is almost entirely in tungsten carbide, a hard and strong material typical used for tooling. The furtif, or “stealthy”, aspect is enhanced by the tone-on-tone fired enamel dial in dark grey with laser engraved markings that are primarily visible to the wearer. Initial thoughts The Chronomètre Furtif is expected because of the Only Watch edition that came before it – and because Francois-Paul Journe has talked about it – but it is novel amongst F.P. Journe watches for the all-black look. That said, it is still recognisable as an F.P. Journe as it inherits many elements from the lineSport. In the hand, the Chronomètre Furtif is almost entirely black at many angles, though the mirror-like dial is highly reflective. And it is impressively heavy at some 250 g, though it sits well because the case is wide and flat. But most of all, the low-key look is arguably all the more appropriate given the fame of the maker and the desirability of his watches. At this moment in time I would absolute love a furtif F.P. Journe rather than a highly recognisable model like the Elegante or Chronomètre Bleu. The cal. 1522 inside Stealth and l0w-key The Chronometre Furtif ret...

Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer Fratello
Studio Underd0g Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer

Did Sartory Billard and Studio Underd0g announce one of the most exciting watches of this release-packed week? The two brands joined forces to create a very special version of Sartory Billard’s SB05. This new SB05 Sunfl0wer features a unique dial designed by Studio Underd0g and produced by Sartory Billard. This 10-piece limited edition will undoubtedly […] Visit Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer to read the full article.

The Best Watches I Saw At The British Watchmakers’ Day Fratello
Mar 30, 2025

The Best Watches I Saw At The British Watchmakers’ Day

Early in March, I attended the second British Watchmakers’ Day at Lindley Hall (Royal Horticultural Halls) in Westminster. The sophomore effort had another fantastic turnout and cemented the show as a bona fide addition to the watch-event calendar. With 45 British-based watch brands presenting, there was plenty for everyone to enjoy. All brands have a […] Visit The Best Watches I Saw At The British Watchmakers’ Day to read the full article.

Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2 SJX Watches
Mar 29, 2025

Hands On: Raúl Pagès RP2

Revealed just a few days ago, the RP2 is the second in-house wristwatch of Raúl Pagès, an independent watchmaker with a background in restoration. The RP2 retains the clean, tasteful styling that characterised his first watch, the RP1. But unlike the RP2, his latest creation was conceived to be mechanically simpler – but equally high quality – and more accessible in terms of price and availability. So the question is, does the RP2 live up to the high standards set by his preceding creation? Initial thoughts The answer, in short, is yes. On its face the RP2 is not a surprising watch. Predictably, it’s a time-only watch with a finely decorated movement, which is exactly what many enthusiasts are seeking at the moment. The RP2 is also one of many such three-hand watches that have been launched in the last three years or so. But the RP2 is different for a few good reasons. For one, its creator, Raúl Pagès, is both a watchmaker and restorer. His background can be discerned from many details, particularly in the movement, like the bimetallic balance and concealed screw for the crown wheel. The quality of the watch is impeccable. The high level of execution is especially evident on the movement. Though the movement is clearly styled, it incorporates many refined details in a tasteful manner. The calibre doesn’t try to do too much and it looks right. The dial is even cleaner but again incorporates notable details. That said, it is a little too stark for me, and I would...