Hodinkee
Watching Movies: David Oyelowo Wears A Solid Gold Rolex Datejust As Martin Luther King, Jr. in 'Selma'
It's a gold classic worthy of his wrist in our watch-related movie of the week.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Would You Customize Your Daytona? A New Creation From Artisans de Genève Makes a Strong Case for Personalization
The personalization of high end watches will probably always be a hot topic in the watch community. As long as wealthy collectors are buying watches, some will have an urge to completely revamp them to make them their own. By the same token, the collecting community will always have a segment of purists who find that any tinkering with a brand’s original design amounts to a crime against horology itself. Regardless of your personal feelings and taste, however, I think it’s hard to argue that there are a handful of firms offering custom work at an extremely high level, and Artisans de Genève is certainly at or near the top of a very small list. If gaudy and out of control diamond and gem setting is what comes to mind when you think of custom watches, Artisans de Genève is worth a look, as their house style is rooted in traditional aesthetics executed at a very high level. Because Artisans de Genève doesn’t actually produce and sell their own watches (when browsing their website, you’re reminded at every turn that they aren’t affiliated with Rolex or any other brand, and that they offer custom work for individual clients who provide their own watches), it’s a little hard to get your arms around what they’re working on. That’s largely intentional on their part, of course, but from time to time they will highlight a custom job that is particularly unique or visually beautiful. The Honey Green Project, recently unveiled to the public, is one such example of a...
Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024
When it comes to being a vital thread in the American historical tapestry, few watch companies can compare with Hamilton. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a role in building and growing the young nation since its earliest days. And though the company has for several decades been making its watches in Switzerland rather than the United States, its American heritage, and its particular association with the American military, is evident in several of its modern-day collections, perhaps most plainly in the Hamilton Khaki Field collection, which channels the martial aesthetics of the 1940s in a stye that few other modern timepiece families can match. From Railroads to Battlefields In 1912, as railroads began spanning and connecting the sprawling reaches of the country, it was Hamilton that produced the uncommonly sturdy and precise pocket watches that railroad conductors used to keep the trains on time and on schedule; in those days before an established international system of time zones, a poorly running watch could initiate a disaster on the rails. Just two years later, as the United States entered the First World War that was besieging Europe, Hamilton shifted its focus from being the acknowledged “Railroad Timekeeper of America” to building compact timekeepers that American G.I.s could wear and depend upon in the trenches and battlefie...
SJX Watches
Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater
Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...
Quill & Pad
Urwerk UV-100V Ultraviolet: Start Wearing Purple!
Purple has been Joshua Munchow's favorite color for years, so it's no surprise that he is a fan of the UR-100V Ultraviolet, an extremely purple watch bordering on the edge of human vision.
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Is This Watch Worth It ? | I Answer Your Questions !
Time+Tide
TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016
I have penned nearly a thousand articles for this site over the last two years, but two of the most read were under the Trading Faces tag – where I dissect an actual watch trade I have made in my collection. I love that you guys love it, because I love writing them. But now I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped my Rolex Submariner for a Rolex Explorer 1016 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Making the case: The term ‘integrated bracelet’ is being commonly misused
Is the term integrated bracelet often being misused in the watch world? Our Editor Zach makes the case that it is.The post Making the case: The term ‘integrated bracelet’ is being commonly misused appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph
What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Boots with Commando Soul, In-Depth Leica Lens Guide, Steven Soderbergh’s Annual EOY List, & More
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Robb Report / Grenson Boots With Commando Soul Via Robb Report / Grenson Boots are very much a part of our everyday gear around the office. We’re no strangers to throwing on and lacing up rugged works of art from brands like Red Wing, Grant Stone, and Blundstone, even if the closest outdoorsy thing we do on a regular basis is to climb the set of stairs that lead into the office. Turns out, the rubber soles on some of these boots actually have a purpose and history that dates back to WWII. Via Robb Report / Grenson Are you wearing a pair of boots right now? Stop reading and check out the soles of your boots. If you see chunky rubber blocks framing several star-shaped medallions lined down the middle, then you my friend are rocking a boot with a commando sole. Developed for the military, this specific rubber soul served its purpose by giving soldiers more traction, cushion, and stability out in the battlefield. When the war finally ended, British shoemakers translated this style into casual boots providing practical features to regular folks who want to get about ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko SKX: A Review of the Legendary Japanese Diver
The Seiko SKX is a watch that transcends its niche. If you type in “best entry-level watch” into any search engine, you will inevitably be unable to avoid seeing the SKX. The SKX009J1 we are looking at today – might just be the best value dive watch on the market. And that says along, given it was introduced in 1996.
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Watch Expert Reacts To DJ Khaled's $700,000 Collection
Deployant
New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065
The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide
Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...
Worn & Wound
The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating
This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Reinterpreting classic watches in a modern package is something TAG probably doesn’t get enough credit for, but if you really want to feel like you’re wearing a vintage watch made with meticulous care, there are few brands doing it better than TAG right now. TAG Heuer is positioning this new release as a watch for the serious collector. It’s limited to 600 units, and the brand is well aware of the high profile of the 2447 SN. Back in early 2020, TAG celebrated the 160th anniversary of the brand with the similarly positioned 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a recreation of the all silver 2447 S. That was a hugely popular release at the time, but you can imagine collectors grumbling about a preference for the more dynamic panda dial of the 2447 SN. Now it seems likely that TAG was wisely saving the SN for the Carrera’s big 60th birthday party, and we can see the full picture of their strategy take shape. It’s hard to find something new to say about a watch like the Carrera. Do...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari
While it may only be the second week of the new year, we already, in this past week alone, have a ton of new novelties to explore. Much of this can be attributed to LVMH Watch Week, that just wrapped up in Singapore, but Grand Seiko also threw their hat in the ring as well. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Recapping the releases of the week – Grand Seiko, Zenith, Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473: A New (In-House) Movement In A Familiar Package
description and review of Oris 473 a new hand wound watch
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My Watch Story: The Joy Of Assembling Your Own Watch by Christoph Lentsch
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko’s First Limited Editions of 2023 Celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 9S Caliber
It’s an often repeated mantra around here: every year is an anniversary year. And if a watch brand is going to be successful in today’s hyper competitive market where, frankly, a lot of brands are offering products that are remarkably similar to one another, they need to differentiate themselves. And looking at a calendar, and figuring out how many years it’s been since “X” accomplishment or “Y” watch was first released is (usually) a decent runway for explaining what makes you special. To that end, Grand Seiko is embarking on what will apparently be a year of celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Caliber 9S, a movement which has become foundational to Grand Seiko in the decades since its debut. The Caliber 9S has become a broad family of movements over the years, as Grand Seiko has continuously refined the caliber, including adding GMT functionality. Grand Seiko has used the 9S movements as a platform for their MEMS engineering techniques, which allow for insanely tight tolerances in movement making for certain key components, and you could probably argue that 9S movements represent the most traditional watchmaking currently practiced by the brand. Today, 9S movements are universally known to be reliable and rock solid high frequency calibers that often perform even better than the specs would indicate. Most recently, the 9S served as the springboard for the creation of Grand Seiko’s next generation Hi-Beat movement, the 9SA5. While it might not be t...
Worn & Wound
Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? Also, a Ceramic Big Bang with a Rhino on the Dial
Yesterday, Blake took you through all the details of Hublot’s latest reinterpretation of their Classic Fusion with the updated Classic Fusion Original. For the Hublot historians out there (are you out there?), this was surely a welcome sight, as it calls back to the earliest days of the brand when a luxury watch on a rubber strap was a truly transgressive idea. We’ve come a long way since then, and so has Hublot. The brand has had ups and downs with the watch community (to the say the least), but in recent years they’ve leaned into experimentation with materials (especially colored ceramics and sapphire) that have gotten the attention of open minded and adventurous collectors and enthusiasts, while making watches like the Classic Fusion Original feel almost sleepy by comparison (sorry, Classic Fusion Original). Hublot’s latest envelope pushing novelties are insane in the way only modern Hublot can pull off, and while they likely won’t find a home in the watch box of any Worn & Wound staffers anytime soon, they’re too crazy not to share. First up, a watch in the same vein as my beloved Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This tennis ball colored, translucent tourbillon uses the same HUB6035 automatic tourbillon movement as the purple version released last year, and fills out the same enormous 44mm Big Bang form factor, but uses a slightly different synthetic sapphire material in the case construct...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original
One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm
In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Zenith Debuts The New Defy Skyline Skeleton
The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton announced at LVMH Watch Week 2023. Read for specs, photos, and an analysis from Two Broke Watch Snobs.
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Lorier Neptune Series 3 Review - 39mm Diver Watch
SJX Watches
Hands-On: TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer
LVMH Watch Week, the year’s first significant watch fair, just kicked off in Singapore. In some ways a warmup for Watches & Wonders in March – the biggest watch fair of the year – the LVMH Watch Week is where the watchmakers owned by the French group show off their wares. Amongst them is TAG Heuer, which has revived one of its less-known racing chronographs from the 1970s but in a thoroughly modern style. The Monza Flyback Chronometer is a flyback chronograph featuring an open-worked dial and a 42 mm carbon composite case. Initial thoughts Perhaps the most aggressively modern chronograph in TAG Heuer’s current line-up, the new Monza liberally reinterprets the 1970s original. While the vintage Monza is not famous as the Carrera or Monaco, it is interesting in several respects, including the fact that it was the first serially-produced Heuer to sport a black-coated case. The carbon case and open-worked, asymmetrical dial show another face of TAG Heuer, but one that still fits with its motorsports-chronograph heritage. Certainly a TAG Heuer that is different, the Monza has clearly been conceived to cater to contemporary tastes, which is a good thing given that TAG Heuer already has an ample offering of faithful vintage remakes. But the new Monza comes with a caveat, a steep price. Coming in at US$13,500, the Monza costs double the Autavia Flyback Chronograph that has the same movement but a no-frills steel case. Even considering the carbon composite case and fanc...
Deployant
New with hands-on: Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton
Kicking off LVMH Watch week, we get some hands-on time to get up close and personal with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”
Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Announces the Big Crown Calibre 473
To kick off 2023, Oris officially revealed the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473-a watch showcasing the latest evolution of their in-house Caliber 400.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: An IWC Ingenieur Chronograph That's Ready For The Formula One Track
The Ingenieur's answer to the Big Pilot still has Genta's DNA.
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