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Le Locle

The Swiss Jura town where Daniel Jeanrichard planted watchmaking c.1700. Home to Ulysse Nardin, Tissot, Zenith, TAG Heuer HQ.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 18, 2024

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong

With the Geneva auctions just concluded, the sale season moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII happens over two days on May 24 and 25. The sentiment evident in Geneva will likely continue in Hong Kong as well, which might mean more value buys and in a handful of instances, outright bargains. We round up some of the highlights of independent watchmaking in the sale, ranging from prime examples that are more affordable than before, like a pair of F.P. Journe with brass movements, to more esoteric watches like an IWC decorated by Jochen Benzinger to a Paul Gerber retrograde seconds with double rotors. The Hong Kong auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), and the online catalogue is here. When brass is more valuable than gold 865 – F.P. Journe Résonance, brass movement This is a fine example of perhaps the quintessential F.P. Journe – a Resonance from 2002 with a platinum case, white gold dial, and brass movement. It is not the rarest variant of the model, which fortunately makes it relatively more affordable. Even now, over 20 years since the original Resonance was introduced, I am not entirely sure the early examples are mechanically perfect going by personal experience. But they are undoubtedly important watches from a significant brand. Watches from this period have an intrinsic appeal that the more polished later watches lack. Certainly less refined than the subsequent watches with gold movements, e...

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec May 13, 2024

Portrait – Watchmaker Jiro Katayama, the Man Behind Otsuka Lotec and Japan’s new Sensation

Some brands want a global presence, while others are perfectly happy to focus on a much smaller part of the world. Such is the case for Jiro Katayama, a Japanese watchmaker who produces watches under the name of Otsuka Lotec. This low-key but high-impact independent watchmaking atelier has been making the rounds online despite selling […]

So, You’re Considering Getting Into The (Not So) Scary World Of Pocket Knives Worn & Wound
May 2, 2024

So, You’re Considering Getting Into The (Not So) Scary World Of Pocket Knives

There’s no denying that even considering carrying a knife may be a bit scary. Will people stare at you? Are you now carrying a weapon? Is this even legal? The answer to all of those questions is “maybe”. There are dozens of variables that come into play when considering your first knife purchase, so I’m here to make that whole world seem a little less daunting by sharing some of my personal experience as well as some widely accepted tips from the world of EDC (everyday carry).  Ultimately, I believe the way to look at a knife is that it’s a tool. One for opening up that new watch box, slicing up an apple at lunchtime, or helping out with some random tasks around the house. Sure, you could use a key to open up a box or your teeth to tear open a package, but it’s important to have the right tool for the job to prevent yourself from breaking an item while using it for something it’s not meant for, or even worse - requiring an embarrassing trip to the dentist.  I don’t mean to frame this as some sort of pro-knife propaganda, since you ultimately can get by without one, but after slipping one into your pocket and seeing just how often it comes in handy, you might be surprised at how useful it is in your day to day life. There’s also the other option - you don’t even have to carry it with you at all. A knife tossed into your junk drawer at home or desk drawer at work will more than likely cover most of your use cases anyway. Let’s break it down a bit ...

Introducing – The Golden Meteorite Dial of the new Formex Essence 39 Space Gold Monochrome
Formex Essence 39 Space Gold May 1, 2024

Introducing – The Golden Meteorite Dial of the new Formex Essence 39 Space Gold

Within Formex’s catalogue lie various collections, among which the Essence reigns supreme in versatility. Ranging from 39mm to 43mm in case diameter, the Essence collection offers timepieces of great quality, consistently delivering excellent value for money. With technical ingenuity, aesthetic appeal, and practical solutions, it caters to both seasoned enthusiasts and novice buyers alike. The […]

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Apr 29, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More

Sometimes viewed as a low point in watch design, the late ’90s and early ’00s saw some great watch designs emerge. Today, a select handful offer huge bargains in the pre-owned market and neo-vintage luxury for small sums. As long as you don’t mind the odd over-scratched or over-polished piece, the value of watches like […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More to read the full article.

Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier pebble-like Apr 26, 2024

Our Contributors’ Favorite Watches & Wonders Releases

Yesterday, Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan told you about their favorite watches from Watches & Wonders week. Today, our contributors have their say. Their choices reflect the incredible diversity of watches at the show (even in what most consider a somewhat slow year) and show that there are lots of great watches that we’ll all continue to discover from the event, sometimes from unexpected sources. Tanner Tran  By many accounts, the releases of Watches & Wonders 2024 were a relatively muted affair. We saw a lot of massaged designs and logical extensions of existing product lines. But that’s not to say there weren’t any new releases. The Cut, a new sports watch from Hermès, was one such example and a personal favorite of mine. I have a sneaking suspicion this watch will appeal to anyone looking for an uncommon 36mm integrated bracelet sports watch – that is to say, a lot of people – even though ‘The Cut’ is a little more than implicitly marketed as a ladies’ piece. With its rounded case (almost Cartier pebble-like) and variants featuring diamond-studded bezels, ‘The Cut’ is a softer alternative to its sibling, the H08. I really dig the design and find that it neither feels overly done nor half-baked. The applied numerals carry a distinct Hermès typography, and the orange accents along both the inner dial and second hand add a nice touch of contrast. The execution of the quick-change bracelet (and strap) is also simple and elegant. On that n...

Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind Fratello
Sarpaneva Apr 25, 2024

Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind

Today, we’ll take a brief look at the Sarpaneva Dragonskin, a watch that owes its existence to a fellow watch journalist. It’s a fascinating watch with a great story. Plus, it brings together watchmaking and artisanal materials. What could be better? Justin Mastine-Frost is the Director of Digital Content for Sharp Magazine, one of Canada’s […] Visit Introducing: The Sarpaneva Dragonskin - The First Dial Of Its Kind to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht Fratello
Swatch Apr 25, 2024

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht

Hello, and welcome to an on-location episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, Daan, and Lex are coming to you from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where Swatch Group novelties for the first half of 2024 were unveiled. They’ll run through some of their favorites and give opinions on the different brand’s new watches and […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Novelties From The Watch Valley Event In Utrecht to read the full article.

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase Someday Apr 24, 2024

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase

Someday, a history of this period in affordable independent watchmaking will be written, and the chapter on Christopher Ward is going to be the longest in this hypothetical volume, for sure. They’ve been around since 2004, and in the ensuing twenty years have gone through just about every high and low a watch brand can experience. While the ultimate thrust of their story is one of incredible growth, those of us who have been around for a little while can probably remember a time when the thought of Christopher Ward winning GPHG awards and being the toast of the watchmaking town would have been fairly unheard of.  The Bel Canto, introduced at the tail end of 2022, changed all that, but the brand had been on an upward trajectory for years before. They’ve come a very long way from being one of the most hotly discussed watch forum brands (so hot, in fact, they have their own forum for C. Ward enthusiasts) know primarily for somewhat generic, but always well made, dive watches. Over the years, they’ve stepped up every facet of their business, with particularly large steps taken in case finishing and movement design. In a very low key way, they are capable of doing things at the higher end of their range that other brands at similar price points simply can’t equal.  While the Bel Canto deservedly gets a lot of the press, one my favorite little pockets of Christopher Ward over the last few years has been the inventive way they’ve incorporated the classic moonphase com...

Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning Fratello
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love Apr 22, 2024

Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning

Five years ago, at Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (aka SIHH, the predecessor to Watches and Wonders), Audemars Piguet shocked the watch world. When “AP” launched the all-new Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet collection, the reception was lukewarm at best, but most reactions were straight-up negative. In particular, the dial design got a proper […] Visit Showing The Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Some Love This Monday Morning to read the full article.

Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium Monochrome
Arnold & Son Apr 22, 2024

Hands-on – Arnold & Son’s Take On The Integrated Sports Watch, the new Longitude Titanium

Since joining Manufacture La Joux-Perret in 2010, Arnold & Son has been known for crafting impressive timepieces that exude elegance and sophistication. With their meticulously crafted dials, whether openworked, metiers d’art, or adorned with exquisite elements, these watches seemed almost too delicate to be subjected to anything other than adorning the wrist for a stylish […]

Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life Fratello
Apr 19, 2024

Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life

The Urbanist is the latest release from RZE, and we think it might be the perfect “grab and go” watch. As you’ll soon discover, this is a fantastic everyday watch with an easygoing solar-powered movement. Best of all, the movement is guaranteed for life. Did we mention that it’s also affordable? We certainly enjoy RZE […] Visit Introducing: The RZE Urbanist - A Lightweight Field Watch With A Solar Movement Guaranteed For Life to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet would launch their own Apr 18, 2024

A. Lange & Söhne Celebrates 25 Years of the Datograph

This is a pretty big year for A. Lange & Söhne. We’ve hit 25 years of the Datograph, which made its debut in 1999, and Lange is celebrating with a pair of very special limited editions of their iconic chronograph. One of them is truly off the wall, and we’ll get to that next week. For now, we’ll take a look at the Datograph Up/Down Limited Edition in white gold, with a blue dial. It’s a perfectly lovely example of the watch that many Lange collectors will insist put the brand on the horological map, and a strong counterpoint to the other Datograph that we’ll tell you more about soon.  First, it’s crucial to understand the importance of the Datograph not just in Lange’s collection, but in high end watchmaking writ large. When it was first unveiled in 1999, Lange was a young brand, only five years into their relaunch. They had earned the respect of connoisseurs in the late 1990s, but the introduction of their first in-house chronograph caliber with the Datograph took them to another level. This was years before Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet would launch their own in-house chronograph calibers, in an era where using supplied calibers from chronograph was common for brands at every level, including the absolute upper tier. It can be argued that the Datograph ushered in an arms race of sorts that would find many of the highest end watchmaking manufactures in a constant state of one-upmanship that goes on to this day.  There have been a variety of Datograph...

Hands-On with the Grand Seiko SLGH021, Featuring an All New Dial Texture and a Genbi Valley Inspired Shade of Green Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH021 Featuring Apr 17, 2024

Hands-On with the Grand Seiko SLGH021, Featuring an All New Dial Texture and a Genbi Valley Inspired Shade of Green

We’ve already brought you news on what are likely the highest profile releases from Grand Seiko this year: the all new SLGW002 and SLGW003, the SBGC275 with an amazing dial that is only red some of the time, and, of course, a new Kodo. But there’s one more Grand Seiko novelty that caught our attention, the SLGH021. This is another reference in the rapidly expanding Evolution 9 Collection and features an all new dial texture from Grand Seiko in a color that will be familiar to fans of a highly sought after limited edition from a few years ago. The watches in the so-called Genbi Valley trilogy from 2021 have been collector favorites since the moment they were announced at the Couture show in Las Vegas. The different expressions of green in those dials were an immediate hit, and now Grand Seiko has gone back to the Genbi Valley for inspiration for this latest reference. The light green color of this dial is meant to evoke the scenery along the Iwai River that created the gorge now known as the Genbi Valley, which has been given a designation as a Place of Scenic Beauty in Japan.  For Grand Seiko collectors the truly exciting aspect of this release is the new dial texture. The molded pattern has a chaotic and almost organic quality to it, with distinctive small ridges throughout that look like crinkled paper, or confetti. In our meeting with Grand Seiko at Wathes & Wonders I found myself coming back to this reference over and over again – the dial catches the light in a...

Buying Guide – Our Selection of the Very Best Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024 Monochrome
Apr 14, 2024

Buying Guide – Our Selection of the Very Best Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024

It’s done, it’s over and it has been another wild ride: Watches & Wonders 2024. Quite literally the biggest watch fair of the year, it’s the social gathering where watchmakers bring their A-game. Brands high and low have presented countless new watches, setting records in the process. Records for ultra-thinness, for instance, or out-of-this-world accuracy. […]

Watches And Wonders 2024: The Ones That Got Away - From De Bethune, Hublot, Hautlence, And More Fratello
De Bethune Hublot Hautlence Apr 13, 2024

Watches And Wonders 2024: The Ones That Got Away - From De Bethune, Hublot, Hautlence, And More

Make no bones about it: Watches and Wonders 2024 is better than expected. In a year with some pretty understated predictions and low sales graphs, the brands didn’t disappoint to the point of causing a dreaded visual overload in the Palexpo halls. That’s where I come in, and it’s not the first time I’ve written […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2024: The Ones That Got Away - From De Bethune, Hublot, Hautlence, And More to read the full article.

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Some Apr 10, 2024

Back to Basics with the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Some things are worth the wait. Though the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT will likely get the most press from the brand’s releases at this year’s Watches & Wonders event, the release of a stripped-down, monochromatic, black and silver, 41mm Black Bay is no less significant. Why? Well, it’s the most obvious colorway for a dive watch, which means it’s bound to be a classic. First launched in 2012, the 41mm Black Bay (just called “Black Bay”) is the watch that reestablished Tudor after some time in horological purgatory. Perfectly timed to ride the wave of vintage-inspired aesthetics that dominated for the decade hence, it showed that Tudor unliked their sister brand, Rolex, was willing to be a bit trendier and fun. Originally powered by ETA movements, it was the first to receive Tudor’s in-house caliber in 2016 and then underwent a third iteration in 2023 when it received the upgraded Master Chronometer certification (and technically a new caliber), as well as a slight redesign in the form of an updated handset, crown, and profile. With the introduction of the Black Bay 58, GMT, and 54 models, new versions of the Black Bay slowed down. Several different colors have been available, from the original burgundy bezel to a steel bezel with date to two-tone models. Yet, despite its tenure, the most obvious model never existed. The model most dive watches come in as a given: simple black-black bezel, black dial, white lume, white or silver markers. No gilt, no red, no fuss....

The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes Apr 9, 2024

The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory

While many fans expected a Coke bezel, Rolex goes with a ghosty black and grey for the new GMT-Master II. The black-on-black-on-grey combo is unlikely to be the game-changer that a coloured ceramic bezel would be, but it’ll undoubtedly be a hit among fans. The monochromatic GMT is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Releases A String Of New References At Watches And Wonders Fratello
Grand Seiko Releases Apr 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Releases A String Of New References At Watches And Wonders

Besides one or two focus releases, Grand Seiko releases a plethora of new variations to its current models every year. In this article, we’ll summarize most of Grand Seiko’s Watches and Wonders 2024 releases, which will be available later this year. There is plenty to enjoy with a beautiful addition to the Evolution 9 lineup, […] Visit Grand Seiko Releases A String Of New References At Watches And Wonders to read the full article.

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection

Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series.  The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is.  Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Casio n Though left unstated Apr 9, 2024

Lange Marks the Datograph’s 25th Anniversary in White Gold and Blue

A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...