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Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12 Worn & Wound
Feb 27, 2025

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12

Sometimes when a new brand enters the ultra competitive watch market, it’s tough to know how seriously to take them. There are many, many upstart watch brands that come in hot and flame out quickly. We can all point to watches and brands that we’ve liked, seemed like a good idea, and then faded away, never to be heard from again. We can also, I’m sure, point to brands that have surprised us with their durability, and stuck around much longer than many would have initially thought. But that’s part of the game when it comes to independent watchmaking – it’s always a bit of a roll of the dice.  These feelings got, well, complicated when Leica entered the watch market a few short years ago. Leica, of course, is a brand that we take very seriously at Worn & Wound. For some of us, it’s a brand that we truly revere for their contributions to photography and the truly exceptional cameras and lenses they produce. So it was tough to know what to make of their entry into the watch world. I think the fear for many was that their watches would simply be licensed products, Leica literally in name only, and produced by the lowest bidder in a manner that lets down everything else they make.  In retrospect, it was silly to be so concerned. Leica, as a brand, seems to have a keen understanding that their products are associated with manufacturing excellence, and that this is a belief held even by those who have never owned or even handled a Leica camera. Their brand image is...

Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel Monochrome
Hamilton before going solo RGM Feb 27, 2025

Introducing – The Compact 40mm Edition of The American-Made RGM 801 Classic Enamel

RGM is an independent high-end American watch brand founded in 1992 by Roland G. Murphy in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Trained in Switzerland (Wostep), Roland worked in product development at Hamilton before going solo. RGM is something of an anomaly on the American panorama with its in-house movements and dials decorated with traditional métiers d’art like […]

Retrospective: Tomas Counts Three Watches He Has Always Wanted But Hasn’t Added To His Collection Fratello
Feb 27, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Counts Three Watches He Has Always Wanted But Hasn’t Added To His Collection

I looked back into my never-ending wishlist and picked a few watches that resonated with me. From one of the best Mimo date watches I’ve ever seen to the triumphant Juvenia Arithmo, the reasons I have never added them are different. Either I came too late, I was too hesitating, or… … I could not […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Counts Three Watches He Has Always Wanted But Hasn’t Added To His Collection to read the full article.

Introducing – A new Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 / 831 Mechanical with a Crisp Ice Blue Dial Monochrome
Citizen Series 8 / 831 Feb 27, 2025

Introducing – A new Limited Edition Citizen Series 8 / 831 Mechanical with a Crisp Ice Blue Dial

Long reserved for the Japan Domestic Market (the famous JDM watches), the Citizen Series 8 is the brand’s take on the sporty, characterful watches made for daily use. Sharply designed with a mix of boldness, resistance and a certain contemporary elegance, the collection was given some fresh air in 2021 and became available worldwide. Since […]

Introducing the SJX Podcast SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s investment Feb 27, 2025

Introducing the SJX Podcast

We are pleased to announce the launch of the SJX Podcast, which is now an official part of our programming. The podcast will be regular and topical (though the very first instalment was an ad hoc collector conversation). In the official inaugural episode, editor Brandon Moore and SJX talk about the state of the industry and Swiss watch export figures, the developments at LVMH watches, including Louis Vuitton’s investment in a state-of-the-art manufacture and Zenith’s evolution into a watchmaker’s watchmaker. They also look ahead to Watches & Wonders 2025, and discuss what’s on the cards for brands big and small. The podcast is now live on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube. Addition March 8, 2025: YouTube link added.

Fratello Talks: Audemars Piguet In 2025 Fratello
Audemars Piguet Feb 27, 2025

Fratello Talks: Audemars Piguet In 2025

Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re discussing Audemars Piguet. The brand is celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2025 and has kicked things off by introducing a selection of new models earlier this week. Lex was in Le Brassus to report on the novelties, and Nacho and RJ now join him for this week’s discussion. They begin by looking […] Visit Fratello Talks: Audemars Piguet In 2025 to read the full article.

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Feb 26, 2025

The Least Expensive Vacheron Constantin Watches

  Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin, and also one of the very few firms tracing their origins back to the 18th Century that can boast an uninterrupted history of watchmaking - a history now well into its third century. Like other brands we’ve covered previously in our "Price of Admission" series, particularly Breguet, Vacheron Constantin is inarguably an elite-level watchmaker, with a level of pricing commensurate with its historical and technical renown. Finding the entry-level pieces in the Vacheron Constantin collection - and even defining what "entry-level" means for this brand - is a challenging proposition, but here is a rundown, family by family, of the most attainable timepieces from the Genevan manufacture that are available today. OVERSEAS The Overseas collection, launched in 1996 and given a high-profile revamp and relaunch in 2016, traces its origin to an unusual and now highly collectible watch released during Vacheron Constantin’s 220th anniversary in 1977. That watch, called the 222 and recently re-released as part of Vacheron’s Historiques collection, was short-lived in its original incarnation but established many of the codes now evident in the Overseas: a six-sided bezel inspired by the maison’s Maltese cross emblem; an integrated bracelet with a similar aesthetic, and an overall bold and sport-oriented character. In its contemporary version, ...

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 26, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model Fratello
Havid Nagan Feb 26, 2025

Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model

If you have not heard of Havid Nagan, it is about time you did. F.P.Journe alumnus Aren Bazerkanian founded the brand in 2022, and he is doing things properly. Despite barely three years of the brand’s existence, Bazerkanian dropped his third watch recently: the Havid Nagan Classic One. Havid Nagan does not follow your average […] Visit Introducing: The Havid Nagan Classic One - The Los Angeles-Based Brand’s Third Model to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s 270th Anniversary Exhibition Feb 26, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Exhibition: First Stop Abu Dhabi

The oldest continuously operating watchmaker, Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary in 2025. In honour of this milestone, the brand has inaugurated The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence, an exhibition dedicated to its history and timepieces. Divided into four chapters, the exhibition includes archival materials and exceptional timepieces, illustrating the brand’s impressive heritage and knowhow. Now on show in Abu Dhabi until April 15, The Quest will make its way to other countries around the world over the course of the year. The exhibition’s first section, “Beginning”, delves into the brand’s early years with rarely seen historical documents and objects. Notable milestones include the invention of the pantograph, which standardised watch components by improving tolerances, and the Kallista, a 1970s watches made from a one-kilogram gold ingot and adorned with 118 diamonds, and reputedly the most expensive watch in the world at the time. The second chapter, “Artistic Crafts and Finishing,” highlights the brand’s watchmaking and craftsmanship, including engraving, enamelling, gem-setting, and guillochage. The “High Watchmaking” chapter invites visitors to explore the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s most complex movements with displays that magnify the tiny components of a movement. Most notably is a set of six sliding glass panels showcasing the 2,877 individual parts and 63 complications of the most complex watch ever, the Be...

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch Monochrome
Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – The Bianchet B 1.618 UltraFino, a Slim Tourbillon Integrated Sports Watch

Bianchet is an independent watchmaking brand founded by Rodolfo and Emmanuelle Festa-Bianchet, whose atelier is located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Since 2021, the brand has been offering modern tonneau-shaped watches powered by architectural openworked tourbillon movements. As Watches and Wonders and its side events are fast approaching, Bianchet unveils a new model named the B […]

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Fratello
Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades Feb 26, 2025

Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades

Retro watches have been all the rage for more than a decade now. When we review those releases, though, most are analog and inspired by highly collectible vintage timepieces with lengthy stories. But what about the omnipresent everyman’s watches we took for granted as kids or teenagers? Every so often, they return too, and if […] Visit Hands-On With The Timex Ironman 8-Lap Gray Shades to read the full article.

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Last Feb 26, 2025

A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Last year’s big Tudor releases during Watches and Wonders were the Black Bay 58 GMT and the black version of the Master Chronometer Black Bay. The latter was quickly nicknamed Black Bay “Monochrome,” to be more specific. With Watches and Wonders 2025 around the corner, an obvious next release would be the Master Chronometer Black […] Visit A Much-Desired Encounter With The Master Chronometer Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.

Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial Fratello
RGM Feb 25, 2025

Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial

It’s been a while since we covered a watch by the North American brand RGM. The company is known for its high-quality watches with classic styling and extensive customizability. Today, we’re looking at the RGM Model 207-EB with a blue guilloché dial. Its 35mm case feels a bit un-American as it isn’t oversized by any […] Visit Hands-On With The RGM Model 207-EB Featuring A Beautiful Blue Engine-Turned Dial to read the full article.

Hands-On with the 100% Swiss-Made Piccola & Jofrette PJ1 Worn & Wound
Casio nally Feb 25, 2025

Hands-On with the 100% Swiss-Made Piccola & Jofrette PJ1

It’s not entirely uncommon for my first encounter with a brand to be when they inquire about attending Windup Watch Fairs. There are a lot of brands out there, more every year, so it’s hard to keep up with every new launch. Conveniently, Windup is a great way for new brands to meet enthusiasts and potential customers (sorry, this wasn’t meant to be a Windup pitch), resulting in a natural amount of outreach. When new brands come in, whether to me or a colleague, we give them a quick review to see if they are a conceptual fit for the fair, which they are more often than not. Occasionally, a new brand will stand out, for one reason or another, and they’ll get the seal of approval and an immediate request for a sample to review. Such was the case with Piccola & Joffrete. What stood out wasn’t the watch’s design, though it is altogether pleasant if conservative; rather, it was what appeared to be a high level of finish and a dedication to Swiss manufacturing. Many watches say Swiss-made on them, the definition of which I’ll elaborate on below, but few say 100% Swiss-made like the Piccola & Joffretes. Typically, those that are 100% Swiss (which is also hard to tell as transparency isn’t a strength of the watch world) cost significantly more, likely starting in the five figures. So, the final aspect that made Piccola & Joffrete (PJ) stand out was their relatively reasonable price point, Swissness considered, of 2500 CHF. There are several criteria a watch must mee...

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Monochrome
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Offshore Feb 25, 2025

First Look – A New Three-Toned Version of the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore debuted in 1993 as the Royal Oak’s bolder, more virile brother with a muscular case and bold juxtaposition of materials. In 2021, the “Beast” was given a facelift, resulting in a more ergonomic 43mm case with redesigned pushers housing the brand’s integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement. No stranger to ceramic […]

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship Worn & Wound
Feb 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy (1780-1854) – A Champion of British Craftsmanship

Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of the great Vulliamy family of Royal clockmakers and five-times Master of the Clockmakers’ Company. He was Royal Clockmaker to King George IV, King William IV and Queen Victoria and the driving force behind the formation of the Clockmakers Library and Collection – now Clockmakers’ Museum – from 1814 onwards. The Public Face of Clockmaking The Vulliamy family was known for producing high-quality timepieces, often regarded as some of the finest in Britain during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Benjamin Lewis Vulliamy was the last of four generations of Royal clockmakers based at 68 Pall Mall, London from 1753. Early in life he joined his father Benjamin in the family business, which by then was best known for its ornamental clocks and metal furnishings. Upon his father’s death in 1811, Benjamin Lewis inherited control of the business. Following the end of the Napoleonic wars he began to shift its output towards emerging new markets, particularly those brought about by the development and expansion of institutions like the new Houses of Parliament, government departments and London’s clubland. In all his products he aimed for high quality, reliability and accuracy. He created clocks for public buildings and important institutions. Some of his works are still present in places like the Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Exchange in London. This magnificent and imposing clock No. 1394 (below) was purchased for use in ...

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”

Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]

First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet held Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138

About a year ago, when Audemars Piguet held its yearly event to present its new collection, the brand introduced a highly appealing version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, made with artist and seasoned collector John Mayer. Besides the incredibly textured dial, AP issued a highly important statement. This watch marked the swan song […]

Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Feb 25, 2025

Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138

Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...