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Results for Calatrava

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Calatrava Patek Philippe

The 1932 Patek reference that set the template for every modern dress watch.

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Patek Philippe Calatrava 6119G Patek Philippe

39 mm × 8.08 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 30-255 PS

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227G Patek Philippe

39 mm × 9.24 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 324 S C

Dimensions · Guide
Case dimensions: Patek Philippe Calatrava 5296G Patek Philippe

38 mm × 9.44 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 324 S C

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8 Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals outperform another? But Aug 3, 2026

Owner’s Review: the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 8

I occasionally have a hard time understanding why some brands are so popular. It’s not that they don’t deserve to do well, but I see brands that don’t seem to be doing anything much different from their peers, let alone special, yet are many times more hyped. Why does one Calatrava-esque watch with Breguet numerals outperform another? But with Ōtsuka Lōtec, I get it. In fact, I don’t just get it, I’ve fallen for it. Then again, Ōtsuka Lōtec isn’t like any other brand. Jiro Katayama, the brand’s founder and lead designer/watchmaker, works from a different playbook. Where other brands pursue finishing and neoclassical elegance, he seeks beauty in the raw and industrial. Inspired by analog machines, measuring instruments, gauges, and the industrial design of the pre-digital age, there is something rough and unintentional (though completely intentional) about his watches. Considering he taught himself watchmaking in a workshop nestled in Tokyo, there is a certain logic to this aesthetic. It’s not born in the farm-strewn hills of Jura, but rather in one of the densest cities in the world. Nor is his education from a lineage of tradition. You won’t find perlage or anglage; surfaces are typically raw, brushed metal, and rarely painted, with only the occasional red highlight. While potentially a love-it-or-leave-it aesthetic, it has resonated deeply with the watch community, touching on a pure joy of mechanics. But, there is more to it as well, as his watches...

In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch SJX Watches
Jun 19, 2026

In the Crosshairs: Dewey Vicknair’s Bespoke Retrograde Watch

Master gunsmith and independent watchmaker Dewey Vicknair returns with a bespoke retrograde hour wristwatch. The American craftsman is a self-taught watch restorer that recently started making timepieces of his own, using just basic tooling. His latest watch was commissioned by a client almost one year ago and the project was completed earlier this month. Initial thoughts There are relatively few artisanal watchmakers still active that limit their output to just a couple of pieces per year. Watchmaking at this scale is not a lucrative proposition, so most independent watchmakers today tend to build for some degree of expansion. This is not the case with Dewey Vicknair, a true artisan who starts with raw sheets of brass and steel and turns the metal into unique timepieces. Along with names like David E. Walter and Jacob Curtis, Dewey Vicknair is one of the few American artisan horologists. His latest delivery is a 39 mm Calatrava-style watch with a fully open-worked dial and endowed with a clever retrograde hour complication. Made at the request of an unnamed collector, the watch features a steel case and is powered by a movement of Mr Vicknair’s own making. The movement in the making. As it was the case with past creations, Mr. Vicknair put together an exhaustive photo essay of his work, which is a recommended read for anyone looking to understand the work required to build a watch from the ground up. Although the look of the watch might not be to everyone’s taste — ...

Introducing - Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo Jun 9, 2026

Introducing - Kiwame Tokyo Releases the New Kubo Collection

Kiwame Tokyo is a young Japanese microbrand founded in 2025 by watch industry veteran Masami Watanabe, dedicated to “honest watchmaking” from Asakusa, Tokyo. By this, Watanabe refers to timeless, well-finished and designed watches at accessible prices that steer clear of artifice and superficiality. The strong Calatrava dress-watch vibe of the debut Kurotsuki and Usuki models […]

Hands-on - The Sero Watch Company Signature, a Compact Everyday Dress Watch from the Netherlands Monochrome
Ming out May 25, 2026

Hands-on - The Sero Watch Company Signature, a Compact Everyday Dress Watch from the Netherlands

Launching a dress watch collection today is not that easy, especially when enthusiasts have already seen decades of Calatrava-inspired cases, engraved dials, and heat-blued hands coming out in every price segment imaginable. But refinement can matter just as much as reinvention. For Sero Watch Company, the goal was not really to create the most original […]

Hands-on - The New Hajime Asaoka Tsunami Edition Blanche, A Subtle Evolution of a Modern Classic Monochrome
Ming ly simple especially Apr 30, 2026

Hands-on - The New Hajime Asaoka Tsunami Edition Blanche, A Subtle Evolution of a Modern Classic

Some watches impress instantly, while others reveal themselves slowly. The Tsunami by Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka looks disarmingly simple, especially at first glance: a compact, time-only watch with classical proportions, a sort of high-end Japanese Calatrava, as sleek and discreet as it can be. Spend time with it, and it opens up, becoming a […]

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe 5322G Brings Apr 28, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5322G Brings A More Modern-Sized And Styled Chiming Alarm Function To The Catalog (Live Pics)

What We Know Unveiled as part of a slew of new releases for Watches and Wonders 2026, the Patek Philippe 5322G offers a chiming 24-hour alarm complication in a modern case and design, with a new movement and a slightly smaller size than the discontinued model it replaces. The watch is housed in a white gold 41mm Calatrava case that's 12.22mm thick and features hollowed-out lugs, the brand's signature 'Clous de Paris' or "hobnail" guilloché pattern on the case middle, and a single pusher at 2 o'clock. The alarm is programmed through the pusher, and it can be set via the crown in the second position, which the brand says works "intuitively."  With a water resistance of 30 meters, Patek says the new 5322G is the only water-resistant chiming watch in the current collection. The new model replaces the Ref. 5520 Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which debuted in 2019 and was inspired by an historical aviator watch in the Patek museum in Geneva. Photo courtesy Patek Philippe. The model continues Patek's modern Calatrava style with a textured, lacquered dial in green or blue. The applied Arabic numerals and white-gold, syringe-style hands are both filled with luminescent material, adding to the contemporary feel. A hand display date sits at 6 o'clock, while the double-window aperture of the alarm function sits above the handset at 12 o'clock. Powering the 5322G is the new self-winding AL 30-660 S C caliber that chimes the alarm with a single hammer striking a classic gong around the case...

Introducing - Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Second Collection, the IWAO Field Watches Monochrome
Kiwame Tokyo Dec 9, 2025

Introducing - Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Second Collection, the IWAO Field Watches

It’s only been a couple of months since we talked about Kiwame Tokyo, a new micro-brand from Japan with the goal of delivering “honest watchmaking from Asakusa” and “affordable Japanese watches.” The project of industry veteran Masami Watanabe, the brand started with an appealing Calatrava-inspired pair of watches offered at a fair price, the Kurotsuki […]

Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo are Nov 11, 2025

Review: the Debut Releases from Kiwame Tokyo

One of the most unexpected but delightful trends to emerge in watches over the last few years is the rise of the “Japanese Calatrava” style watch. Even if you haven’t heard this term thrown around, you probably know exactly the type of watch I’m talking about, as there have been several that have emerged relatively recently. The small dress watches made by Kurono Tokyo are an obvious example, and perhaps the genesis of it all. Brands like Kikuchi Nakagawa and Noaya Hida are also part of this conversation at the more luxurious end of the spectrum, and of course there are a variety of affordable watches that sit nicely in this category or are tangential to it, like Kuoe and Orient (which admittedly has been doing this for many, many years).  I like this trend because it feels like a small segment of the watch world is pushing back on the dominant force in watches over the last decade: the vintage inspired sports watch. I’m no hater – I own a few vintage inspired sports watches and can appreciate the good ones, but they are so ubiquitous it’s tough to see them as anything but generic. The simple Calatrava style watches coming out of Japan are of course similarly generic, but are a welcome flip side to the sports watch coin, and I like the idea that someone entering the hobby now might find themselves down a rabbit hole of small dress watches as opposed to Submariner-style divers. I’d be very curious what that collector has in their watch box five or ten years...

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe Fratello
Orient Nov 9, 2025

Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe

In Henry’s article detailing Calatrava-like watches for all budgets, he included the Orient Bambino. The Bambino offers a touch of vintage in a classic time-and-date configuration, accessible to all budgets. To rival the smash-hit Bambino, Orient introduces new European-exclusive colors to the AC0F core collection. The brand has long offered affordable and elegant watches for […] Visit Introducing: The Orient AC0F In Five New Colors Exclusive To Europe to read the full article.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref Jul 23, 2025

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe & Tiffany Jul 9, 2025

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...

The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025) Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Patek Philippe May 19, 2025

The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025)

When we talk about "the Holy Trinity of Watches" or "Holy Trinity of Swiss Watchmaking," or "the Big Three," most of us watch aficionados agree on which watchmakers we're referring to: Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet (that would be in ascending order of age). How did this triumvirate of historical maisons - one of which has been making watches since before the 19th Century, two of which remain family-owned - ascend to the highest echelons of prestige in the eyes of the watch connoisseur community? Each has its own intriguing history and can claim its own milestones in the evolution of modern watchmaking. Here, we briefly tell each of their stories and spotlight some of the timepieces that have made them immortal.  PATEK PHILIPPE Founded: 1839; Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland; Ownership: Stern Family; Notable models: Calatrava, Nautilus, Aquanaut, Sky Moon Tourbillon Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestone...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis Fratello
Patek Philippe Chanel Apr 8, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis

Watches and Wonders 2025 might be done and dusted, but some watches continue to haunt me. Patek Philippe is always impressive, but this time, it wasn’t something complicated that struck a nerve. Rather, it was the introverted Calatrava 6196P, a classic with a contemporary twist. The Chanel J12 Bleu collection surprised me in the metal […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches And Wonders 2025 Releases - Lex’s Picks From Patek Philippe, Chanel, And Roger Dubuis to read the full article.

Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Mar 3, 2025

Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One

Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5711/1500A Becomes Most Nov 26, 2024

Unique Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1500A Becomes Most Expensive Nautilus Ever

A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...

Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet We Nov 14, 2024

Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong

With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1500A Nov 4, 2024

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Don Pancho” Oct 31, 2024

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s

One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...

Patek Philippe Cubitus Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Cubitus Oct 17, 2024

Patek Philippe Cubitus

The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years Oct 10, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition

Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony will put you Sep 26, 2024

MIL-SPEC Watch Design: How Military Needs Shaped the Modern Wristwatch

Nearly everything we regard as a modern luxury was once a military necessity. Okay, maybe that’s too broad a statement. But when you consider the impact of inventions like the Internet (set up as a Department of Defense communications network in 1969) and GPS navigation (which still uses military satellites from the 1970s) - not to mention the rise of the Jeep from humble troop conveyance to luxury SUV; the ubiquity of microwave ovens (which emerged from NATO radar experiments); and the enduring civilian stylishness of accessories like cargo pants and aviator sunglasses - a substantial case can be made that goods made to military specifications, or MIL-SPEC, have made an inestimable impact on everyday life. Nowhere is this influence seen more strongly than in the world of wristwatches - not only those intentionally designed for a military or tactical look, but in many styles and genres throughout the industry.  From Waistcoat to War: Origin of the Wristwatch While it’s unlikely that a distinctly elegant timepiece, like a Patek Philippe Calatrava or a Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, will put you in the mind of battlefields and trenches, the truth is that wristwatches themselves are essentially a military invention - at least, the ones designed for men. Women had been wearing timepieces on pendants and bracelets for decades, since the middle of the 19th Century, but it was the utilitarian needs of soldiers in World War I that ushered them into general usage for ...

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case Monochrome
Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Apr 29, 2024

Hands-on - The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time 5520RG Ups Its Elegance with a (sort of) Two-Tone Case

While pilot-style watches have now found a comfortable niche within the modern Patek Philippe catalogue, the introduction of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 5524 in 2015 sparked more than just curiosity: it stirred a veritable commotion. Many were taken aback, feeling it was a departure from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. The design, markedly different […]

A Visit to Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Just Apr 22, 2024

A Visit to Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024

Just ahead of the public unveiling on April 13, Patek Philippe debuted 82-strong Rare Handcrafts 2024 collection at its Geneva salon during Watches & Wonders. Made up of Dome Clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, it is the largest such release in the brand’s history. Unlike the most recent Rare Handcrafts collection that was country-specific, the 2024 collection continues with the typical diversity of the annual line-up with motifs as varied as the techniques used to render them. While natural themes figure prominently, less traditional themes like classic American automobiles and surfers, like the Calatrava ref. 5089G-129 “Morning on the Beach” (pictured above), are explored as well. While only a subset of the 82-piece collection is on display at the Patek Philippe Salon – and open to the public till April 27 – a few pieces stand out from the rest. Calatrava ref. 5089G-148 “American Beauties”, one of several depicting 1950s American cars Dome Clocks One of the themes of the 2024 collection is “Gardens of the World,” and among the most striking is the Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden. Decorated with cloisonné enamel that contains nearly 50 m of gold wire, the English Garden offers a charming composition featuring a stately home in the country. Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden Dome Clock ref. 20151M-001 English Garden Patek Philippe also drew inspiration from across the pond, with American themes featuring prominently. Among this sub...

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 Mar 29, 2024

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024 on Show in Geneva

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe is exhibiting the year’s Rare Handcrafts its Geneva Salon from April 13 to 27, alongside the final few days of Watches & Wonders. Aside from the 82 watches and clocks – the largest Rare Handcrafts collection ever presented – the engravers and enamellers will be on hand to demonstrate their craft. The timepieces in the exhibition, comprising seven Dome Clocks, three table clocks, nine pocket watches, and 43 wristwatches, showcase the brand’s mastery of traditional techniques, ranging from the familiar like cloisonné and champlevé, to those less often encountered in watchmaking, such as wood marquetry and Longwy enamel on faience. As has long been the case for the Rare Handcrafts collection, all of the timepieces on show are available in theory, but typically allocated to the best clients. The Rare Handcrafts collection will be exhibited in three sections, each grouped according to the particular timepiece form. Upon entering the Salon, guests will encounter a dozen Calatrava wristwatches with enamel dials bearing the constellations of the zodiac, executed in a range of techniques, namely grisaille, cloisonné, and paillonné. The Napoleon room The exhibition continues into the Napoleon room facing Lake Geneva. Here are the watches inspired by nature, including the pocket watch ref. 995/143G-001 “Portrait of a White Egret” with a wood marquetry dial. The ref. 995/143G-001 with its matching stand The last section ...

Business News: Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique in Singapore’s MBS SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique Mar 11, 2024

Business News: Patek Philippe Revamps Boutique in Singapore’s MBS

Patek Philippe has just reopened its longstanding boutique in the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino resort in Singapore, after a renovation that gave the store a wall-to-wall makeover. Operated in partnership with Cortina Watch, a family-owned retailer that’s one of the brand’s biggest partners, the boutique features the brand’s latest store aesthetic that nonetheless remains recognisable with it use of dark and pale woods along with brass. Located in a choice location near the entrance to the gaming floor, the boutique covers 262 sq m, or over 2,800 sq ft. As is increasingly the practice for watch stores, the space is not just a showroom to display watches, but also includes an exhibit on Patek Philippe’s history as well as a lounge area with a bar. An enduring partnership  One of Southeast Asia’s biggest retailers, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer in 1972. Twenty-twenty tw0 marked Cortina’s 50th year with Patek Philippe, an occasion marked by the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances the Geneva brand created a reference specifically for a retailer. Cortina established the first Patek Philippe boutique in Singapore in 2010, with the MBS story opening a year later. The retailer now operates more than half a dozen Patek Philippe boutiques in Asia, including stores in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022 The MBS boutique is the first in Singapore to feature the brand’s latest...