Revolution
Louis Moinet: Four Impressive Milestones
Louis Moinet Celebrates the 250th Anniversary of its Founder’s Birth with Four Announcements.
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Revolution
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner - Singer and Louis Vuitton Go To Extremes With Two Bespoke Porsche 911s
Collaborations between watch companies and other industries come in all shapes and sizes, and extend well beyond the usual realms of fashion and art. We’ve seen pretty much anything we’d say, but every now and then, one comes along that surprises us, regardless of how natural the connection might be in hindsight. One such collaboration […]
Worn & Wound
Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage
Watch collecting is filled with stories of love at first sight, which I guess makes sense considering the hobby revolves around looking at watches. Stare at enough stranger’s wrists, browse enough boutiques and partake in enough endless scrolling sessions, and it’s only a matter of time before cupid’s horological arrow strikes. If your watch consumption habits are as excessive as mine, you’ll likely be struck on a regular basis. Knowing when to embrace these moments through distant appreciation and when to splurge by breaking out the credit card is a balancing act that comes down to personal finances and individualized collecting goals. Have stacks of cash and enjoy rotating through dozens of watches? Sounds like a green light to hit that buy button whenever your heart desires. Writing monthly checks for your kid’s extra curricular activities that are high enough to make even your inflated grocery expenses blush? We have plenty of room for you in the strapped for cash parents club, where we maintain concise collections that prioritize frill free practicality over opulence. As a proud member and self-designated ambassador of the latter group, I’ve set a limit of $300 for individual purchases. Yes, it sounds low, and compared with most of the collectors that are likely to appear in your Instagram feed, it is. But armed with patience and a penchant for bargain hunting, it’s really not all that limiting and has allowed me to embrace love at first sight with two B...
Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Tank Louis Review
The Cartier Tank is one of the most thoroughly and exhaustively discussed watches of all time. At one point or another, the Cartier Tank has been worn by JFK, Princess Diana, Ralph Lauren, Michelle Obama, Muhammad Ali, Andy Warhol… the list really goes on and on. The first Cartier Tank was a prototype worn by none other than U.S. General "Black Jack" Pershing, who was the commander of the Allied forces in World War I. And while the collection was formally debuted with the Tank Normale, it would be the Cartier Tank Louis that would go on to be synonymous with the iconic rectangular-cased watch. Of course, there is so much history and lore to get lost in with the Tank and our own resident expert, Mark Bernardo, did a complete job of it, which you can read here. The Cartier Tank Louis is an Art Deco classic that has inspired countless imitators but, as with all great things, there is the real thing and then there’s everything else. Cartier Tank Louis Case The contemporary Cartier Tank Louis comes in a few different sizes, starting with the mini quartz which is 16.5mm wide, 6.2mm thick, and 24mm tall; to the small mechanical, which is 22mm wide, 6.8mm thick, and 29.5mm tall; to the size I will be reviewing here, which is the large manual-winding model, which is 25.5mm wide, 6.6mm thick, and 33.7mm tall. There is also the automatic Tank Louis that was introduced at this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, which is 27.7mm wide, 8.18mm thick, and 38.1mm tall. When mos...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the New BOLDR Odyssey
It isn’t a hot take to say that tool watches tend to be formulaic. Afterall, there are only so many combinations of bezel formats, dial colors and hand styles out there. With new brands borrowing familiar cues and old brands iterating on their own designs, it’s easy to feel underwhelmed by the steady stream of near-identical releases. Oftentimes, I look at a new watch and wish the brand would do something, anything, to put their own spin on even a single component to stand out from the crowd. Well, BOLDR heard my pleas with the newest iteration of their popular Odyssey diver ($799). And they didn’t just put their own spin on one component… they spun them all. After I unboxed the sky-blue “Horizon” variant, I spent a solid 10 minutes rolling it around in my hands, taking in all the unexpected details. I noticed the funky gear-shaped crown, the translucent dial that reveals the entire date wheel, the unique dual-stripe hands, a shaped date window, and the seemingly never ending cascading angles that make up the aggressive case shape. Just when I thought I’d taken it all in, I turned the watch over to be surprised by an embossed whale on a display caseback. We will get to all those details (including the whale) soon, but first, let’s cover the basics of this far-from-formulaic GMT. The Watch The bold watch with blue accents that kept surprising me is part of BOLDR’s expanded Odyssey collection. Differentiating itself from their more subdued offerings, the ...
Deployant
Review with new video: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
We requested for samples to be sent to us as loaners for review. Here are our thoughts after spending two weeks with the watches.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise
Today, Americans sit down at their Thanksgiving table with their friends and family, and consider all that they’re thankful for. Good health, a warm home, great company, and a delicious meal will top many lists, as they should. But if you’ll allow a quick thought experiment (really, all of this is just one big thought experiment, if you think about it) and narrow the focus of thanks to the watch world, I’d have to say that the singular event of the last few years that I’m most thankful for is whatever transpired during the first meeting between the team at Louis Erard and watchmaker Vianny Halter. It led to a collaboration that launched a thousand other collaborations (slight exaggeration, but maybe not), and brought an affordable indie brand and a Capital I Independent watchmaking legend together in a genuinely interesting way. There’s a compelling case to be made that the first Louis Erard x Vianney Halter collaboration was the seed of many similar LEs to come, from Louis Erard and other brands, so it makes sense that just like that first collab, their second drops on Thanksgiving weekend, bringing one of the most interesting stories in contemporary watches full circle. While the first collaboration with Halter felt like one of his watches in spirit, the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II takes steps to make the physical object feel more like a watch that could have come out of Halter’s workshop. Using Halter’s iconic Antiqua as inspiratio...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Bulgari Serpenti Pallini Trilogy of High-Jewellery Watches
It’s fair to say that Bulgari’s ultra-thin Octo Finissimo watches have stolen the limelight for the past decade. However, Bulgari’s laurels have rested for decades on its fabulous and creative high-jewellery watches, spearheaded by the brand’s mascot, the Serpenti. Decked with fabulous gemstones, flexible Tubogas straps or whirling with tourbillons, Bulgari’s Serpenti has countless guises. […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Goes Full 'Less Is More' With The Pelagos 39
Anyone want to buy a few of my watches?
Quill & Pad
Cartier, Hublot, And Louis Erard: When Time Takes A Backseat To Art
What happens when form dominates function nearly completely and the watch itself becomes a canvas for art? What if artistic freedom can be enjoyed without time being the primary purpose? Martin Green highlights three great examples here.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: With The Cartier ID Two Concept, Less Is Way More
A study in transparency and efficiency from the brightest minds at Cartier.
Deployant
Review: Jaquet Droz Les Ateliers d’Art Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée
Full hands-on analytical review of the amazing Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée. And the secrets behind the amazing paillonnée dial.
SJX Watches
The Most Notable Watches of 2019
Oddly enough, one of the year’s highlights is a quartz watch that costs almost US$17,000 – but it is the most accurate wristwatch ever, rated to run within a second a year and probably less in practice. The Citizen Caliber 0100 slightly plain but the technology within is mighty impressive. Also impressive is the thought and effort put into developing the movement; that is extremely Japanese. It feels slightly anachronistic given the alternatives that can sync with GPS or radio waves and keep just as good time, but it is still mighty impressive. The top of the line model is in 18k white gold, explaining the price tag, but fortunately there’s a titanium model with the same movement for half the price. The Citizen Caliber 0100 The 0100S movement Sporty-ish and value For almost exactly the same price, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph scores high in terms of value for money. It’s an ultra-thin – really, really thin – chronograph with a second time zone function that continues Bulgari’s streak of extra-flat Octo watches. Though the design is thoroughly modern, its slimness and proportions give it a graceful air. But at 42mm the case is verges on looking like a biscuit because it is flat and wide. And the thinness of the movement, combined with a rather small balance wheel, inevitably invite questions about its robustness. The Octo chronograph That is very flat More expensive but also strong value for money is the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus. Looks-wise, it...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Redesigned, More Contemporary Oris Artelier Date 38mm
Less well known than the brand’s popular dive and pilot watches, Oris has a dressier, more formal watch line, some powered by the brand’s in-house calibres, such as the refreshed Artelier Complication we covered a few weeks ago. The Artelier Date, a classic time-and-date model, has also been selected for a design makeover. Keen to […]
Monochrome
Introducing - L’Epée 1839 Reimagines its La Regatta Clock with Enamel
For over 180 years, L’Epée 1839 has been one of the greatest specialists in high-end mechanical clocks, from traditional carriage timepieces to captivating, bold creations like the 1520-component Albatross and other time-telling objects developed in cooperation with MB&F;, cars and aeroplanes for Tiffany & Co., or an Imperial Hot Air Balloon for Louis Vuitton, to […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: The Speedmaster Reverse Panda Rocks, But We Miss The LEs
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the latest Speedmaster Professional reverse panda. However, this isn’t your standard review. We take it all the way back to Speedy Tuesday 1 and rue the passing of the limited-edition models of yore. Fear not, though; it’s not all about Speedies. This […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Speedmaster Reverse Panda Rocks, But We Miss The LEs to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Introducing Temporal Works, a New Brand from the Armoury’s Mark Cho
For those familiar with New York-by-way-of-Hong Kong menswear retailer The Armoury, Mark Cho’s move into watches won’t come as any major shock. His brand has long flirted with watchmakers and collaboration over the years, including with H. Moser & Cie., UNIMATIC, and Paulin. Now, Temporal Works, co-founded with The Armoury’s creative director, Elliot Hammer, is the natural progression for the brand. Their inaugural collection, Series A, reflects the same approach that has defined The Armoury since it opened in 2010 (and why the store has recently been named one of New York Times’ top 50 menswear stores in the country). Taking inspiration from a bygone era of tailoring, The Armoury is all wood-paneled, brick-walled masculinity that celebrates an inherent grace when dressing well. The Series A has this same throughline, using Cho’s singular vision of his retail store – masculine, elegant, and minimalist. In fact, the connection between Temporal Works and his existing brand is a throughline explicitly made by the founder, who noted, “Our goal was straightforward: create watches as thoughtfully designed and effortlessly wearable as a perfectly tailored navy blazer.” This jumping-off point seems to work in both Hammer and Cho’s favor, as the Series A clearly shows an unwavering vision of a brand identity that feels complementary without being derivative (something other lifestyle-to-watch brands like Louis Vuitton and Montblanc sometimes struggle with). This...
SJX Watches
LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret
The world’s largest luxury group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), just announced that it has taken a minority stake in Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, an important supplier to the group’s watch brands as well as the industry at large. Owned by Citizen of Japan, La Joux-Perret also controls a few of its own brands, including Arnold & Son and Angelus, that will remain independent. The solar-powered TAG Heuer Formula 1 that relies on technology licensed from Citizen Initial thoughts LVMH’s investment in La Joux-Perret marks a logical next step in its long-term effort to consolidate movement production within the group. Such arrangements are becoming increasingly common - Hermès and Chanel, for instance, have taken similar minority stakes in movement makers Vaucher and Kenissi, respectively. LVMH, which owns TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Zenith, Hublot, and of course Louis Vuitton, had already hinted at this direction. Last year, Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and then the head of LVMH’s watch division, proposed expanding Zenith’s manufacture to supply movements to other group brands. That plan has been partly realised with Zenith now producing Bulgari’s Solotempo calibre. However, the idea of Zenith supplying a high-volume brand like TAG Heuer always seemed unlikely, which helps explain this latest move. La Joux-Perret’s solar technology for movements is particularly important to TAG Heuer, the most important watch brand in LVMH in terms o...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Black Onyx and Burgundy
Regarded as the most influential 20th-century watch designer and a key figure in the revival of mechanical watchmaking, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) is the name behind countless icons that still hold sway today. In 2023, Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) haute horlogerie division announced the return of Gérald Genta as a standalone brand. Overseen […]
SJX Watches
In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...
Time+Tide
Zach attends his first Indy 500 with TAG Heuer
Our driver's license-less NYC-based Editor discovered he's actually quite a fan of IndyCar last week.The post Zach attends his first Indy 500 with TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With Two Orient Bambino LEs Celebrating The Brand’s 75th Anniversary
The Orient Bambino was many watch hobbyists’ first mechanical timepiece. Its classic looks punch much higher than its affordable price point, and the exhibition case back tickles the hearts of many new enthusiasts. This year, Orient celebrates its 75th anniversary. For that occasion, the Japanese watch manufacturer introduced two limited-edition models of the Bambino with […] Visit Hands-On With Two Orient Bambino LEs Celebrating The Brand’s 75th Anniversary to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Seiko taps Japan-born, Australia-based artist Kentaro Yoshida for a trio of vibey 5 Sports LEs
Seiko collaborates with the in-demand artist on a series of vibey 5 Sports models inspired by Australian surfing and skating culture.The post Seiko taps Japan-born, Australia-based artist Kentaro Yoshida for a trio of vibey 5 Sports LEs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Andrew reveals plan to open a Time+Tide NYC Discovery Studio to Financial Times
We're looking to raise £3 million in private investment to open a retail space in New York.The post Andrew reveals plan to open a Time+Tide NYC Discovery Studio to Financial Times appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 95 - A Colossal Collab, and More!
The year is winding down, but only after a few more new releases. On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we take a look at the Ressence Type 9, the smallest Ressence yet. Then we dive into Jacques Bianchi, square up with the Circula Facet, head to the mountains with Élge, and turn green with Fratello and Czapek-lastly, we nerd out with Vianney Halter and Louis Erard, who are bringing steampunk back. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and its new Brooklyn showroom. Inside, find watches, accessories, EDC, and more from the Windup Watch Shop. The showroom is located at Worn & Wound HQ, a newly built-out shopping space that immerses you in watches from brands you won’t find in your normal AD. If you’re in the area and are interested in stopping by, head to Windupwatchshop.com to book an appointment. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 95 – A Colossal Collab, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
First Look - High Jewellery Meets High Horology with the New Breguet Classique Tourbillon 3358
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) embraced all facets of horology, from his gravity-defying tourbillon regulator to his neoclassical design language and legible displays. While the Reine de Naples is the go-to collection for women, last year, Breguet dipped into its Classique collection and confected two dazzling jewellery models: the Classique Tourbillon 3358. The latest interpretation in white […]
Time+Tide
Frederic Arnault reveals plan to increase Zenith movement production for use across all LVMH watch brands
LVMH watch brands stand to benefit from an increase in Zenith's movement production.The post Frederic Arnault reveals plan to increase Zenith movement production for use across all LVMH watch brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New Video: Brief introduction to Rudis Sylva in Les Bois
We visited Rudis Sylva, in a small village known as Les Bois in the Swiss Jura. And discover the fascinating history of the brand and the village.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Shop Heirlooms for Generations with 10Ten Labs LEs
The post Shop Heirlooms for Generations with 10Ten Labs LEs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Hands-on - Trilobe Performs a Moonlight Serenade with its Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise
Founded by Gautier Massonneau, French brand Trilobe abandons the conventional approach of displaying time with central hands. Instead, Trilobe inverts the formula and sets time in motion with counterclockwise rotating discs for the hours, minutes and seconds indicated by static trefoil pointers. Trilobe’s first collection, Les Matinaux, bears the name of a René Char poetry […]