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Sapphire Crystal

Mohs-9 synthetic corundum, the default crystal on serious watches since the 1970s.

First Look - The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Apr 9, 2024

First Look - The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power

The Big Bang MP-11’s impressive 14-day power reserve, derived from seven series-coupled and horizontally arranged barrels, has been a staple at Hublot since 2018. Using a sapphire crystal case to house the HUB9011 movement isn’t entirely novel (one of the inaugural models featured this). Still, it’s hard to overlook the allure of the latest iteration […]

The TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Goes Luxe in 18k Rose Gold SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Goes Luxe Apr 9, 2024

The TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Goes Luxe in 18k Rose Gold

TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Revives Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver

Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...

Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2024

Depancel Adds New Watches to the Allure Line

Depancel’s racing-inspired design DNA is all over the French brand’s new Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm. “As an engineer, I have always been fascinated by the beauty of mechanics, passionate about cars and watches,” said Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. There are the obvious components–it is a chronograph, after all, meant to help drivers time their cars and calculate speed with the handy tachymeter. But Depancel sneaks in subtler cues as well. The Allure Automatic Chronograph features a textured dial meant to evoke the grille of a car, pushers meant to evoke pistons, and a crown meant to evoke a radiator cap. It’s not just a watch for racing–it’s a watch for racing enthusiasts, hoping to transport fans “to an era where chronographs were more than simple measuring instruments for race car drivers, they were loyal companions.” The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is available in two colorways: a blue dial and a silver dial, both using orange as a secondary highlight color. Adding some further color options to the mix, it can be paired with a black, brown, or blue leather strap with orange stitching or a metal bracelet. On the leather straps, a one-off red, white, and blue stitch near the upper lugs pays subtle homage to the flag of France. With a non-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal and 100m of water resistance, the Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is durable, robust, and in a definitively contemporary case size.  ...

Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique References Inspired by Glaciers Worn & Wound
Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique Mar 14, 2024

Baltic Launches Limited Edition Hermétique References Inspired by Glaciers

Whether you’re thinking of Titanic or the majestic vista of Mont Blanc, there is no denying that glaciers have long held the fascination of the human psyche. In a way, their calming, serene presence belies the danger that can exist on one of these masses of ice – and, in a way, this juxtaposition is a perfect jumping-off point for a watch design. Like, for instance, what Baltic has done with their Hermétique Glacier collection. Coming in both a White and Black reference, the Hermétique Glacier is both meticulously crafted and finely designed to elegantly represent the essence of les glaciers. Starting with the dial, both the White and Black versions draw inspiration from the ethereal beauty of glaciers to create a stamped pattern that emulates the various textures of a glacier’s surface. Super-Luminova® BGW9-coated hour appliques and “syringe” hands ensure effortless readability, even amidst dimly lit environments. Ostensibly a field watch, Baltic reinforces the notion of “form and function” when combining a beautifully designed watch with its 150-meter water resistance, double-domed sapphire crystal, and use of 316L stainless steel for the case. Despite its rugged capabilities, the Hermétique Glacier maintains an elegant profile, with the case measuring a mere 10.8mm in thickness and clocking in at 37mm. The watch runs on a calibre 9039 movement, a self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve developed by the Japanese manufacturer Miyota. Various s...

RZE and Fratello Team Up for the Resolute Pro “Contour” Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2024

RZE and Fratello Team Up for the Resolute Pro “Contour”

RZE builds watches for adventure. Its latest, a collaboration with Fratello, takes that ethos more literally than ever, with a dial that resembles the topography of a map. It’s a field watch with the field on the watch. The RZE x Fratello Resolute Pro “Contour” keeps the angular design of the Resolute line case. It’s a rugged design, complemented well by its rugged qualities. Grade 2 titanium gives the watch some serious durability while keeping it light and easy to wear, particularly at 40mm. RZE’s proprietary UltraHEX coating ups the case’s durability and combined with a sapphire crystal and titanium bracelet more or less guarantees no part of the watch will scratch. But the case isn’t what’s new about this watch: it’s the dial that really makes the collaboration. Made from forged carbon sheets, the dial gets its signature contours from steel powder infused into the carbon. Because of the nature of this process, each watch dial in this limited run features a unique pattern. A topographical pattern is featured on the caseback as well, which also features a Fratello logo. Applied indices and logo on the dial, and brushing on the case and bracelet give the watch a luxurious finish. Inside is the Miyota 90s5, an automatic movement that features hand-winding capability and hacking, with 42 hours of power reserve. Water resistant to 100 meters with a signed screwdown crown, lumed indices and hands, and an anti-reflective coating on the crystal, the watch is a...

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW SJX Watches
VPC Debuts Mar 7, 2024

VPC Debuts with the Type 37HW

Founded last year by Thomas van Straaten, VPC is a Dutch micro brand making its debut with the Type 37HW. Mr van Straaten, who formerly works for an Amsterdam-based watch dealer and now writes for media platform Fratello, started VPC with the goal of creating the “ultimate” everyday watch in his words. VPC is short for Venustas Per Constantiam, Latin that translates as either  “beauty through constancy” or “charm through restraint.”  Featuring numerous clever details, the Type 37HW is the result of Mr van Straaten’s own experience owning, and later growing bored with, numerous watches that, in his view, featured compromised designs. He appears to have approached this problem forensically, considering everything from the bracelet end-links to the typography on the dial. Initial Thoughts The Type 37HW is an impressive debut that manages to stand out in a crowded segment of the watch market thanks to several interesting details. The central premise of the Type 37HW is that it is a “go anywhere, do anything”, or GADA, watch. Almost every aspect of the watch appears to have been designed with this use case in mind.  The Type 37HW offers goldilocks proportions, and is unusually slim at just 9.8 mm thick (including 2 mm for the domed sapphire crystal). The svelte profile is likely possible thanks to the use of a manually wound Sellita SW216-1. Unfortunately, the combination of a screw-down crown and a manually wound movement – one with a relatively short 45...

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References Mar 6, 2024

Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection

When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option.  There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet.  Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well.  All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Worn & Wound
Ming opinions without seeing Feb 28, 2024

Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01

Making judgments off photos alone is a necessity in the world of microbrands, a subset of watches often sold exclusively online. Unless you are lucky enough to attend an event such as Windup Watch Fair, purchasing a microbrand usually requires some educated guessing based on pictures and dimensions, and then praying you like the watch once it arrives at your doorstep, long after your money has left your bank account.  Forming opinions without seeing a watch in the metal as I had many times before, I made up my mind weeks ago that the DUAL Series 01 from UBIQ was a watch I would love to own. With an impressive 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal, it had the specs enthusiasts such as myself want. Featuring a 39mm diameter and 47mm lug to lug case, I knew it would be comfortable. And, drawn in by the photos of captivatingly colorful dials and bezels, I was confident it would be a playful addition to my collection of mostly bland dive watches. After spending some time with the DUAL Series 01, I can confirm it is indeed a well-built, vibrant tool watch prepared to add spice to any collection. However, I am also walking away with a reminder that pictures alone fail to capture the entire story. $649 Hands-On: the UBIQ DUAL Series 01 Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Rubber or bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 39 x 47mm Thickness 11.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $649 Maybe i...

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe Worn & Wound
Isotope green gilded black Feb 27, 2024

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe

ARDIO is an independent U.S. brand based out of Pennsylvania and founded by Ron Oley. The Caribe is the brand’s first watch and is the product of over three years of design effort. ARDIO keeps a fairly quiet online presence, with their main website and an Instagram page being the most accessible sources of information for prospective buyers. According to Oley, each component of the Caribe is designed from scratch and the watches are assembled in small batches. This particular run is capped at 300 pieces per colorway with each watch triple-checked by three separate parties and hand-regulated before shipping. There are five dial colors offered at this time: light blue, gauge brass, isotope green, gilded black, and sunrise orange. I had the opportunity to review the blue and brass options. My first impressions of the watch were very positive. I had initial concerns about how it would wear on my wrist, since it looked sizable in the travel case it came in and felt fairly hefty before trying it on. Case diameters of 40mm can wear a myriad of ways depending on other factors – it seems to be a size where the number on paper doesn’t give the wearer the full picture of the fit. However, the Caribe really feels like it wears true to size due to its well-proportioned lugs and slim bezel. Part of the illusion of its overall dimensions can likely be attributed to its height: a double domed sapphire crystal adds two millimeters to its vertical presence, but also offers a nice effe...

Micro-Brand Digest: Single Hand Watches, Tough Tools, and a New Take on Solar Power Worn & Wound
Feb 16, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Single Hand Watches, Tough Tools, and a New Take on Solar Power

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project, you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Canister Fieldmaster The Fieldmaster is Canister’s inaugural wristwatch. Its inspiration comes from a career as an active-duty member of the Canadian Armed Forces, and first-hand knowledge of the consequences when tools and equipment fail. As a result, Canister’s aim is to make rugged and dependable tools built for a purpose. As such, the Fieldmaster has been rigorously tested in Brandon, Manitoba, where extreme winter conditions of minus 40 are common, as are 14-hour workdays.  The Fieldmaster is made of 316L stainless-steel, has a flat sapphire crystal and a ceramic bezel insert. Powering it is the upscale Miyota 9015 automatic movement and the dial numerals and hands are coated with a generous amount of C3 SuperLumninova. The size is 41mm in diameter, 50mm from lug-to-lug, 12mm thick and its lug width is 20mm. It is also water-resistant to 200m. Three dial colors are available (black, blue, and white) and it comes with a stainless-steel bracelet, a ru...

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain Worn & Wound
Vulcain Building Feb 15, 2024

The Grand Prix is the Latest Historic Reference to be Revived by Vulcain

Building on a rich heritage spanning over 165 years, Swiss watchmaker Vulcain continues to draw attention in the watch industry with each new reissue. Under the leadership of Guillaume Laidet, Vulcain’s Chief Revival Officer, the brand has been on a trajectory of reinterpreting its iconic timepieces, breathing new life into past references. Since 2022, Vulcain has been setting the tone for each season with strategic launches of emblematic collections, including the Cricket, Skindiver, Nautical, and more. Today, Vulcain has rereleased another popular model, the highly anticipated Grand Prix. Originally introduced in the 1960s to commemorate Vulcain’s triumph at the 1929 Barcelona International Exhibition, the Grand Prix returns with a diameter of 39mm, a great contemporary size with plenty of presence for a variety of wrists. The Vulcain Grand Prix 39mm really exemplifies Swiss elegance. Its slim and uncluttered design is a no-fuss interpretation of a clean, vintage watch that will surely garner the attention of those looking for that “Old Money” aesthetic we hear so much about on TikTok nowadays. Equipped with a Swiss Landeron automatic movement, the time-only watch features a domed crystal over a dial in Champagne, Light Grey, or Black with a semi-glossy sunray finish. With a brushed/polished steel case and polished hour markers on the dial, these vintage-inspired elements are complemented by a double-dome sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, ensuring op...

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Feb 5, 2024

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week

TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

Introducing - The Green Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox Jan 29, 2024

Introducing - The Green Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera chronograph last year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Glassbox and a 42mm Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a timepiece equally characterised by seamlessly integrated domed sapphire crystal. Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on early Carrera models, this watch with refined ergonomics presented a distinct and clean […]

Farer Adds a Pair of New References to the Aqua Compressor Range, Benefitting a Good Cause Worn & Wound
Farer Adds Jan 26, 2024

Farer Adds a Pair of New References to the Aqua Compressor Range, Benefitting a Good Cause

Farer’s Aqua Compressor collection has long been a favorite in the brand’s collection, first making an appearance in 2017. Now, seven years on, the UK-based watchmakers have reimagined this line with two new colorways to sit alongside the classic Black model: Endeavour Ocean White and the Hecla Carmine Red. To build this new iteration of the Aqua Compressor line-up, Farer made some distinct changes that allowed for a lighter, and more durable, timepiece. The case, constructed from grade 2 titanium, is exceptionally light at 62g. Measuring 41mm in diameter, with a 45mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 12.5mm, the case combines brushed and polished finishes. The watch boasts a 2.2mm double-domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, achieving a depth rating of 300m through gasket compression under water pressure. Powering the Aqua Compressor is the Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, elaboré grade, with 26 jewels, a 4Hz beat rate, and approximately 38 hours of power reserve. The rotor features a bespoke wave design visible through the sapphire exhibition case back. The Endeavour Ocean White introduces a fully lumed dial and bezel using Grade X1 Super-LumiNova for optimal low-light legibility. The stark white surfaces with black detailing provide high contrast and readability. The Hecla Carmine Red, the boldest model, features a deep red dial and an integrated rubber strap, emphasizing practicality with Lumicast ceramic numerals and Super-LumiNova accent...

Introducing - The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition Jan 18, 2024

Introducing - The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster Orange Limited Edition with New Old Stock Dial and Movement

A visually faithful re-edition of a vintage dive watch, the classic version of the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster – which we reviewed here – combines the charm of an old watch with the ease-of-use of a modern watch, built with contemporary features and materials like sapphire crystal. And in all fairness, this is a perfect package […]

The Wild New Behrens Orion One Worn & Wound
Behrens Orion One Behrens 2012 Jan 15, 2024

The Wild New Behrens Orion One

Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment.  The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center.  Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs Worn & Wound
Ming Olympic year Focusing Jan 4, 2024

Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs

The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition  include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000.  The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2023

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus

We’ve featured E.C. Andersson, a small watch brand out of Sweden, in our Micro-Brand Digest a few times now. Their latest, however, definitely warrants a longer look. The Mytilus is easily their most ambitious design to date, and serves as an extension of what’s come before as well as a bit of a bolder statement. Described by the brand as “retrofuturistic” in its style, it’s been conceived as a distinctive watch that’s also ultra lightweight and thin. It’s part of a larger crop of new designs that we’re incredibly excited about that offer a real taste of the avant-garde at an approachable price point. While the design and manufacturing of the Mytilus is surely quite complex in practice, the concept is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. The “case” is a milled block of solid aluminum and this central component is just 4.1mm thick. The sapphire crystal has a deep box design and pulls double duty as a bezel that holds the unit together. The brand says the crystal is attached to the case directly via six screws, and that total of twenty-one gaskets are used on the Mytilus to ensure water resistance (it’s rated to 60 meters, which is pretty good for such a thin mechanical watch). With the crystal attached, the total thickness of the Mytilus comes in at 9.5mm (the case is 38mm wide). This is a time only watch with a simple, sandwich style dial with lume seen from a lower layer at the cardinal positions. Like the case and caseback, the dial is als...

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons SJX Watches
Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT Worn & Wound
Bremont s Latest Made Dec 13, 2023

Bremont’s Latest Made in Collaboration with Martin-Baker is a Stealthy Pilot’s GMT

You know when you run across something so rad that you realize “wow, I never knew I wanted that, but I totally do!” What if I told you there’s a watch that’s been made in collaboration with an iconic ejection seat manufacturer, and the watch itself has been tested to the same extremes as said ejection seats: vibration, extreme endurance, live ejection, altitude, and aircraft carrier deck testing? Well, Bremont and Martin-Baker brought life to a limited edition watch that expands on Bremont’s popular MB line - the MBIII Stealth is born. Limited to only 50 pieces, the MBIII Stealth is an almost totally blacked-out watch that would curl the toes of any secret agent. The case itself is 43mm of jet black DLC coated stainless steel with a knurled aluminum barrel, that pulls from the design elements of Martin-Baker ejection seats, and matches with the knurling on the duel crowns: one crown for setting and winding your watch, and the other is for the inner rotating 24-hour bezel. The MBIII Stealth has GMT and date functionality, made possible through Bremont’s chronometer certified BE-93-2AV automatic movement. The movement itself is anti-shock with a faraday ring that makes it both shock resistant and anti-magnetic, and it can all be seen through a smoked sapphire exhibition caseback that adds to the jet-setting super spy motif of the watch.  In fact, the only area in which any color can be found is underneath the sapphire crystal on the dial, whose Arabic numerals...

Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back Dec 12, 2023

Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s

Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado.  The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...

Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac Nov 22, 2023

Maurice de Mauriac Sees Red with the New L1 Red Lightning

They say lightning doesn’t strike twice – but what about Red Lightning? Zurich-based Maurice de Mauriac has once again ignited the horological scene with their latest creation, the L1 Red Lightning. Known for being the choice of creatives worldwide, the brand has reimagined their L1 series with a red makeover that makes a bold statement. While the L1 Red Lightning’s predecessors were known for their clean aesthetic and a more pure design, this new iteration of the classic has just a bit of rock ‘n roll infused into it. In fact, it was Swiss musician, Crime, who first gave inspiration to Maurice de Mauriac for the vibrant change to the L1. And now, everyone can enjoy the bold addition to their line-up.  While the red dial might be the most obvious feature of this watch, let’s not forget about the broad appeal that Maurice de Mauriac has in the market. The L1 Red Lightning boasts a stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, providing a sleek and durable exterior. The visible back and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides showcase the meticulous craftsmanship. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.6mm, the watch strikes a balance between presence and wearability. This L1 is powered by the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber, ensuring precision with a generous power reserve of 68 hours. With a water-resistance at 10 ATM, it’ll fit into most regular-use situations (or, perhaps, a crazy night out with a Swiss pop star!)....

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15 SJX Watches
Hublot MP-15 Hublot unveiled Nov 22, 2023

Takashi Murakami Fuses Art and Horology with the Hublot MP-15

Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody  Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch.  Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch Worn & Wound
Luminox Nov 20, 2023

Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field Watch

Known for producing some of the most popular sporting and outdoor gear on the market, Ball and Buck has teamed up with Swiss watch brand Luminox for their latest iteration of the classic Field Watch. The entirety of the watch centers around the Ball and Buck camo design that fits naturally into the field watch aesthetic. Used as the dial, one immediately gets the sense that this is a watch that’s meant to be worn in an array of environments year after year. Against the green and brown tones of the dial, the watch is accented in vibrant orange, which includes Luminox Light Technology providing maximum visibility even in the darkest environments for all-day use.  The watch itself runs on a 26 jewel automatic Swiss Sellita SW 220 movement that can be seen through the sapphire crystal exhibition back, adding a bit of hidden enchantment for an otherwise utility focused watch. The case measures 44mm in diameter and is 14mm tall.  The watch is available in two options. A standard and non-limited release priced at $1,298, gets you the watch with a leather strap. For an additional $200 at $1,498, you can opt for the limited edition set, which includes an additional ballistic nylon watch band, certificate of authenticity, and premium watch box. The collector’s set is limited to just 76 pieces.  The Ball and Buck x Luminox Field Watch is available now via the Ball and Buck website. Images from this post: The post Luminox Partners with Ball and Buck for a Limited Edition Field ...

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT Worn & Wound
Nov 6, 2023

Traska Launches a New and Improved Venturer GMT

It has been a little over two years since Zach introduced the first iteration of Traska’s Venturer. A multipurpose sports watch which boasted incredible specs for your hard earned money. While the first model retailed for $585 and was equipped with a time and date Miyota 9019, the new version retails for $720 and is equipped with a “true” GMT Miyota 9075 caliber. That’s a meager $135 extra for a completely different movement which offers a new type of functionality: traveling like a pro. What’s more is that the brand added a tool-less micro-adjust clasp and gave the case a gentle facelift whilst improving its overall construction and finish. What’s not to like here? There are many ways to discuss watches. It could be its design, value, or the use of a unique movement. To be fair, many of us like to talk about value. We all like a good deal and the thing about micro and independent brands is that the “deals” get better and better each day. More specs, better construction, improved finish. Things just keep getting better. And you might find that the new Venturer GMT may very well be one of the best value GMTs out there right now by just looking at the spec sheet: a true GMT caliber, box-style domed sapphire crystal, tool-less micro-adjust clasp, 150 meters of water resistance, generous application of BGW9 lume, and a case and bracelet made of hardened steel. This makes the Venturer GMT a true travel companion and a proper tool watch.  Traska was one of the f...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Oct 10, 2023

Hands On: Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...