Results for IWC Mark XX

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Oris May 7, 2025

Oris ProPilot X Review

Oris made its first watch for aviators, the original Big Crown, way back in 1938, and has been riffing on that ingenious and influential design ever since. Defined by its large, fluted winding crown, designed to be easy for gripping by hands in heavy pilot’s gloves, the modern Big Crown series - now hosting both the sporty ProPilot and the more elegant Pointer Date versions - has become a major pillar in the independent Swiss brand’s portfolio. In 2020, Oris launched Caliber 400, the first in-house automatic movement it had made in its long history, and debuted it inside a watch from its popular Aquis diver collection, following that model up with a Caliber 400 version of its other divers’ model, the retro-styled Divers 65. In 2022, Oris finally arranged a marriage of its oldest watch model - well, a descendant of it, anyway - with its newest exclusive movement, introducing the first ProPilot X Caliber 400 models. Now available in a variety of avant-garde colorways, these siblings to the larger, Sellita-equipped ProPilot Date models (example below) offer a marked contrast with their predecessors while still carrying the banner of the overall series. Here is what you should know about the ProPilot X, where it came from, and what Oris has been doing with it lately. The Brand History: Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded Oris in 1904, in Hölstein, Switzerland, naming the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Apr 27, 2025

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn

Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm […] Visit Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn to read the full article.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Apr 26, 2025

Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US

Harry Belafonte is a hero to many, including Fratello reader Billy Denty. This is for good reason. A successful musician who sold more than 3,000,000 albums, he was also a man of immense social conscience. He led a remarkable life, and today, thanks to one Fratello reader, we get to see Belafonte’s Wyler watch up […] Visit Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US to read the full article.

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Fratello

Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Apr 26, 2025

Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary

Today, we’re celebrating King’s Day here in the Netherlands. It’s actually our King’s birthday tomorrow, but that’s a Sunday, so the festivities take place today. A lot of people already started partying last night, during King’s Night, and this morning, the flea markets opened up all around the country. But the most important way of […] Visit Introducing: The Ace × Nomos Metro Neomatik Orange - Celebrating Ace Jewelers’ 50th Anniversary to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko SBGN003 One Mar 27, 2025

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003

One of the first things that you may be thinking is “wow, cool Explorer II homage”. I’d say you’re not totally wrong either because that’s how I made my way to the SBGN003. I was looking hard at 5 digit Explorer II’s, but still had a hard time committing to that much spend on a watch, especially with a 9 month old baby in the house and the pandemic still being very much a thing. I remember seeing the Grand Seiko SBGN003 pop up in my Instagram feed and started to do my deep dive. There was a lot to like about the watch, and being that I already had another GS with a 9F movement in my collection, I more or less knew what to expect. Once it hit the Watch Recon alerts page, I knew it would end up in my collection. If you’re able to set a Watch Recon alert without buying the watch, you are a stronger person than I.  When the watch showed up on a hot August afternoon, it just immediately clicked. The finishing on the 39mm steel case was perfect. It fit my 6.75” wrist like a glove and quickly rose to the top of my most-worn watches. Let’s take a closer look at this highly accurate, easy to wear GMT from Grand Seiko and how it’s held up over my tenure with the watch.    $3400 [VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Grand Seiko SBGN003 Case Stainless steel Movement 9F86 Dial Black Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 12.1mm Lug Width 19mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Seiko Mar 17, 2025

Seiko Presage x Studio Ghibli Watch Review

It’s a little crazy to actually type this out but I never actually owned a Seiko watch until this year. Obviously I have reviewed, written about, photographed, and indeed appreciated dozens and dozens of Seikos throughout the decade I have been in this industry but there was never one that truly spoke to me as a collector. Well, that was until I saw news of the Presage SPB437, a beautiful limited edition done with a blue enamel dial as a tribute to Nausicaä of the Valley of the Wind, one of my favorite movies of all time and the Hayao Miyazaki film that led to the creation of Studio Ghibli, the legendary Japanese animation studio. 2024 marked the 40th anniversary of Nausicaä which seems like the perfect opportunity to release a limited edition for the most hardcore fans. This is not the first Seiko watch done for Studio Ghibli as there was a pair of Presage watches released in 2020 for the also-great Porco Rosso. The first of these was the SNR047J1, a 500-piece limited edition done with a Spring Drive movement and a white enamel dial inspired by the cockpit of the Crimson Pig’s plane with subtle touches like red seconds hand, red R, and the The Tricolour Italian flag colors. The second of these was the SRQ033, a black enamel dial Spring Drive chronograph with similar color touches and a Tricolour seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock that was limited to 600 pieces. These were magnificent pieces made for Ghibli-heads like myself though they were significantly pricer at ar...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Mar 14, 2025

Albishorn’s Thundergraph Revives the “California” Dial

Less than one year since its debut, Albishorn is back with its third chronograph. The Thundergraph continues the brand’s theme of “imaginary vintage,” this time taking inspiration from mountaineering, specifically the Swiss expeditions to Everest in 1952. With a focus on legibility, the Thundergraph features an unusual “California ghost” dial in petrol blue. Available in a limited run of 99 pieces that will be produced over a period of three years, the Thundergraph features a new iteration of the brand’s proprietary manually wound chronograph movement, developed by founder Sébastien Chaulmontet. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Albishorn since its launch, and have become more impressed with each new release. The Thundergraph is my favourite to-date, retaining the best elements of its stablemates while introducing an appealingly bold take on the California dial. The stainless steel case of the Thundergraph largely mirrors that of the earlier Type 10 and Maxigraph, and retains the appealing asymmetric form and red anodised aluminium chronograph monopusher. The case is actually just 39 mm at the case band, but wears larger due to its 42.7 mm bezel. Where the Thundergraph differs most from its siblings is its dial, which offers a sunburst finish in petroleum blue, which pairs perfectly with the rose gold-plated hands and dial markers. The so-called “California ghost” dial features Roman numerals on the top half of the dial, but rather than Arabic numer...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Krayon Mar 13, 2025

Krayon’s Anyday is a Day-Date “Mechanical Planner”

Krayon continues with its focus on calendar-related complications with the Anyday. Coming after the Anywhere and Everywhere, the Anyday is not an astronomical complication, but rather a seemingly-simple watch, albeit one with a twist. The Anyday is more than just a basic calendar watch as it offers an intuitive way of visualising the days of a month. Krayon describes the Anyday as a “mechanical planner”, with its display giving a complete view of the current month’s layout in terms of dates and weekends via a colour-coded date display. Initial thoughts Since the Anyday shows the days of the week over the course of a month, the utility of the concept is clear. It allows the wearer to tell if a certain future date will be a Monday or Tuesday, for example. Design wise, the Anyday also continues with Krayon’s established aesthetic, resulting in a recognisable house style. The quality of execution also lives up to the earlier Krayon timepieces. The movement is carefully finished and bears the hallmarks now requisite in high-end independent watchmaking, while the dial is clean and conveys the Krayon aesthetic well. The weekday planning function is useful and conceptually interesting, but it is little disappointing in mechanical terms, especially in comparison to the Anywhere and Everywhere, which are true complication powerhouses. An annual calendar or another basic calendar complication would have made the proposition a little more appealing. That is not to say the Anyd...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Breitling Omega Mar 12, 2025

Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Nacho’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Doxa

Over the last couple of weeks, you’ve seen some of the guys pick favorites among some of the best vintage watches on the market for less than €5,000. I set them out to complete this task, so it only seems fair that I join in. Today, I’ve scratched the surface of the vast selection of […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Nacho’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Doxa to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Casio added Mar 5, 2025

Celebrating The G-Shock DW-6900 Triple Graph’s 30th Anniversary With Three New Versions

In 1995, Casio added the DW-6900 model to its G-Shock line, marking an evolution in the design and functionality of digital watches. With its round case, Triple Graph display, and front-mounted light button, the DW-6900 quickly became a favorite among watch enthusiasts and professional users. Its 30th anniversary in 2025 is a good moment to […] Visit Celebrating The G-Shock DW-6900 Triple Graph’s 30th Anniversary With Three New Versions to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Feb 27, 2025

Leica’s Latest Watch Collection is Here: Introducing the ZM 12

Sometimes when a new brand enters the ultra competitive watch market, it’s tough to know how seriously to take them. There are many, many upstart watch brands that come in hot and flame out quickly. We can all point to watches and brands that we’ve liked, seemed like a good idea, and then faded away, never to be heard from again. We can also, I’m sure, point to brands that have surprised us with their durability, and stuck around much longer than many would have initially thought. But that’s part of the game when it comes to independent watchmaking – it’s always a bit of a roll of the dice.  These feelings got, well, complicated when Leica entered the watch market a few short years ago. Leica, of course, is a brand that we take very seriously at Worn & Wound. For some of us, it’s a brand that we truly revere for their contributions to photography and the truly exceptional cameras and lenses they produce. So it was tough to know what to make of their entry into the watch world. I think the fear for many was that their watches would simply be licensed products, Leica literally in name only, and produced by the lowest bidder in a manner that lets down everything else they make.  In retrospect, it was silly to be so concerned. Leica, as a brand, seems to have a keen understanding that their products are associated with manufacturing excellence, and that this is a belief held even by those who have never owned or even handled a Leica camera. Their brand image is...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 Feb 9, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day

It has been a while since we covered Panerai’s Luminor Due collection. Mike wrote an article in 2019 when the brand went from the OPXXXIV to the new P.900 movement. He was a fan of the simpler Luminor Due models, mainly because of their dial design, the crown system, and the case shape. We thought […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Due PAM01539 With A Bold Burgundy Dial - Just In Time For Valentine’s Day to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti Jan 28, 2025

Introducing the Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti: a Titanium Farewell to the S2

When Timex launched the Giorgio Galli S1 in 2020, an eponymous watch designed by the brand’s long-time creative director with over 30 years in the industry, it was met with shock. It didn’t look like a Timex, having a stripped-down, retro-luxury vibe. It didn’t feel like a Timex, constructed from injection molded steel and featuring a Miyota movement inside. It wasn’t priced like a Timex, initially listed at $450. And yet, it was described by the historic brand as “the most ‘Timex’ Timex ever made,” a bold statement and perhaps even a challenge to what we expect from the brand. It was met with excitement, if also some confusion, that wore off as the S1 took root and eventually spawned subsequent versions, including an enthusiast-friendly 38mm variety. In 2023, Timex followed up with the S2, which took Giorgio Galli’s vision further into conceptual territory as well as upmarket. The DNA of the S1 was clear, but the S2 was more than a refinement; it was a genuine evolution of the concept. Combining steel and titanium, the 38mm x 46mm x 12mm case was hollowed out from the side, revealing an unexpected structure for a sleeker, more contemporary style. The dial was further reduced to an expansive surface with a single applied ring, notched at intervals of five. Finally, it was Swiss-made, and powered by a decorated Selitta SW200 automatic. Minimal in a Euro-chic way, the S2 was a restrained and mature design intended to speak to the enthusiasts in Timex’s fa...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Longines Jan 28, 2025

Oris Introduces the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition

The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition is Oris’ second collaboration with The Muppets, following the ProPilot X Kermit two years ago. Housed in a 34 mm stainless steel case, the Miss Piggy Edition has vibrant “hot pink” dial with a synthetic diamond for a 12 o’clock marker, while the Muppets character makes an appearance on the rotor, and can be glimpsed through a small porthole on the case back. The new edition retains the model’s signature knurled bezel and integrated bracelet equipped with a “Lift” folding clasp modelled on an aircraft seat belt buckle. Initial thoughts Though part of the ProPilot line that’s mostly made up of no-frills aviator’s watches, the Miss Piggy Edition is definitely not a traditional pilot’s watch. Instead, it’s a playful interpretation of the genre that’s conceived for women, which also encapsulates the brand’s experimental spirit found in its limited editions. The novelty of the Muppets theme aside, the watch also has an acceptable level of fit and finish for the price, which is nonetheless a little steep. With a retail price of US$3,200, the Miss Piggy Edition is relatively expensive given its movement, even considering the synthetic diamond marker. It is powered by the Oris cal. 531, which is actually a Sellita SW100, a movement with easy serviceability and reliability, but one that’s inexpensive. Many of its competitors in this price segment, Tudor and Longines for instance, offer watches with higher-spec movements, ...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Rolex Datejust Models Another Friday Jan 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the vast world of pre-owned Rolex. More specifically, we try to find some of the best affordable (relatively speaking, of course) Rolex Datejust models. As a result of the price drops on the pre-owned market over the last 12–18 months, many of the overly expensive Rolex […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models to read the full article.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Jan 21, 2025

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Divers From The ’60s, ’70s, And ’80s

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss our favorite divers from the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s. We also offer more affordable alternatives. Enjoy this lengthy episode! For our listeners, the watch content begins after 27 minutes. This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Divers From The ’60s, ’70s, And ’80s to read the full article.

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SJX Watches

Breitling B01 but Jan 20, 2025

Tudor’s Chrono Colours Continues with the Black Bay Flamingo Blue

Tudor surprised with the Black Bay Chrono Pink early last year, and it’s now done the same with the Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue”. Like last year’s pink chronograph, the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono, but with a coloured dial in a bright turquoise. And it will similarly be made in “limited” numbers, though is it not a limited edition. Initial thoughts Bright-c0loured dials used to be a novelty for Tudor, but now such “special editions” have become a regular part of the collection. It makes them a bit more predictable and thus less interesting, but they are still intrinsically appealing. Like its predecessors, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is fun and in typical Tudor fashion, excellent value for money. I liked the pink version enough that I bought one. The combination of a bright dial and “Jubilee” bracelet is a good one; it’s clearly a modern watch but many of the elements have a retro feel. But the Flamingo Blue is based on the standard Black Bay Chrono so it is a little thick and chunky. Eventually Tudor will introduce a smaller in-house chronograph movement (the current MT5813 is based on the Breitling B01), but for now this has to do. Miami vibes According to Tudor, the Flamingo Blue chronograph is meant to evoke the “classic South Beach vibe”, a reference to the coastal Miami neighbourhood. The American inspiration is perhaps because the country is now the world’s strongest watch market. The brand goes on to exp...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Rolex Air-King Jan 17, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of the Rolex Air-King, The Understated Pilot’s Watch

The Air-King is an interesting model within Rolex’s historic portfolio (known as an evergreen if it’s still in production), sometimes dismissed as too entry-level (well, back in the day). The sentiment is somewhat understandable but also misplaced, even if the Air-King sits among the most affordable models on the preowned market today. The watch goes […]

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Greubel Forsey Handmade 1 Zuckerberg seems Jan 11, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Prepping for Winter Storms, Zuck’s New Watch, and the State of the Oscar Race

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Zuck’s New Watch If you’re a watch enthusiast and have spent literally any time at all on the internet this week, you’ve no doubt already heard about Mark Zuckerberg’s latest high end watch, a nearly million dollar Greubel Forsey Handmade 1. Zuckerberg seems to have taken a relatively sudden interest in high end watches, being photographed in watches made by Patek, F.P. Journe, and others. But the Handmade 1 is something in a different league – Gruebel Forsey says each watch takes over 6,000 man hours to produce, and virtually every component is handmade in the traditional, painstaking way. While it might seem ostentatious to wear a watch like this, one has to ask: isn’t someone like Zuckerberg exactly who this watch is made for? Who exactly is supposed to wear million dollar watches if not the world’s billionaires? Frankly, it doesn’t matter much, because if you see news of this watch on a Meta platform, it can’t be factchecked anyway.  Is a Wool Sock the Best Option?  Here in the northeast it is cold and it has us thinking about the best ways to stay comfortable...

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F Fratello

Fratello

Jan 7, 2025

A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment

We kick off the first Tuesday of 2025 with a reader’s story on his Speedmaster. This week’s contribution comes from Ricardo Rio, who resides in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ricardo has been part of the Speedy Tuesday community for a long time. He has a professional background in sports and joined BMX Freestyle cyclist José Torres […] Visit A Speedmaster Collector’s Story - Marking A Special Olympic Moment to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Rolex King Midas Jan 6, 2025

Toledano & Chan Introduces the B/1.2, a Follow-Up to One of Last Year’s Breakout Independent Hits

If 2024 was defined by the rise of shaped cases and stone dials, it appears that 2025 is starting off with more of the same. Last year, Toledano & Chan had an unexpected hit with their debut watch, the B/1, which was a contemporary riff on the classic Rolex King Midas and similar avant garde designs, with a Brutalist inspired case shape and on-trend lapis lazuil dial. Now, for the brand’s second serialized release (they produced a pair of one-offs for auction last year  with cases crafted from carbon and meteorite) they’ve made a handful of subtle refinements to the original idea, added a mother-of-pearl dial, and introduced a dramatic, faceted crystal. It’s a more complex idea but shows in clear terms how the brand might grow with future releases, showing that they have plenty of tricks left up their sleeve and intend to keep their momentum going.  The new watch, dubbed the B/1.2, prominently features an asymmetrical sapphire crystal that echoes the lines of the angular case. Faceted and asymmetrical crystals are rare in watchmaking. Production of crystals in unusual shapes, particularly when made from sapphire, is challenging and expensive. Perhaps even more importantly, a crystal with facets will distort, to some degree, whatever is viewed through it, which is not ideal for time telling. It’s perhaps especially not ideal for time telling on a watch with a dial that does not include markers or numerals of any kind, like the B/1.2. But that underscores the whole...

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Fratello

Armin Strom Ming Dec 25, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More

It’s time for a look at the best watches of 2024, according to me! These lists can be challenging to compile because the year is long and sees many releases. I’ve managed to winnow it down to seven picks, though, so let’s begin. Choosing the best watches of 2024 marked a change for me. In […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Mike’s Picks From Lederer, Armin Strom, Ming, And More to read the full article.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Dec 16, 2024

Why Michele watches bother me so much

A staple of the US women's affordable luxury market, Michele watches are all show and no go.The post Why Michele watches bother me so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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F Fratello

Fratello

Breitling Pop-Up Museum Nov 30, 2024

The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 1: Sea

To celebrate 140 years since its founding in 1884, Breitling has opened a pop-up museum in the heart of Zurich, Switzerland. It stands proudly inside a historically significant building on Zurich’s Rennweg, just 200 meters from Breitling’s flagship boutique. Remarkably, this newly opened museum is the only brand-specific museum in Switzerland’s largest city. The museum […] Visit The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 1: Sea to read the full article.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Nov 20, 2024

A Weekend In Abu Dhabi | Mavericks Of Time – Revolution’s First Travel Vlog

Constant takes a quick weekend trip to Abu Dhabi for the debut of Mavericks of Time-a watch event helmed by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons in collaboration with Abu Dhabi Investment Office, featuring over 15 independent brands. While there, he also takes the opportunity to explore this extraordinary destination. This milestone marks Revolution’s very first vlog! […]

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Fratello

Rolex Watches Another Friday another Nov 15, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches

Another Friday, another list! This week, we take another step into Rolex Wonderland. With all the price decreases on the secondhand market, some of the Rolex models you have had your eye on might have become more within reach. This week, we look at some reasonably affordable Rolex models. They could be the start of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches to read the full article.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hamilton Introduces Nov 6, 2024

Hamilton Introduces the PSR 74, a Period Correct 70s Throwback

It was 1979, and I had accompanied my parents to a dinner party. I was six years old, and my parents’ friends had no children. My parents married later in life and came from a generation where children were meant to be seen and not heard. Unfortunately, I am one of those who likes to be seen and heard. However, I was instructed to be on my best behavior, so they set me in front of the television. Noticing that I was bored, our host handed me his wristwatch and said, “Check this out.” He pressed a button on the side of the case, and the display lit up in bright red, showing the time. I had never seen anything like it before. My father’s manual-wind Caravelle watch had a large white dial with Roman numerals and looked like an antique compared to this modern watch. I was captivated, and he let me wear it and play with it all evening. Undoubtedly, that watch made a lasting impression on me. The 1970s were an exhilarating period in design and technology, marked by rapid changes. The quartz crisis impacted the watch industry, prompting companies to innovate. This development created numerous new timepieces, including the noteworthy Hamilton Pulsar Cushion. Introduced in 1974, it boasted a vibrant red LED display that would only activate when you pressed the button on its side. Fifty years later, Hamilton is releasing an updated version called the PSR 74, and they have chosen to maintain its iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case. This design was considered futuristic in the 197...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Oct 29, 2024

In-Depth: Alfred Helwig’s Flying Tourbillon in Wrist- and Pocket Watches

The flying tourbillon marks the beginning of my career as a watch dealer and collector. In the mid-1970s, I met a former fellow pupil of mine, Richard Miklosch, in a little antique shop in my hometown of Aachen. At the time, I was unaware that Miklosch (1939-2014), originally a technical schoolteacher, had become a highly sought-after watchmaker specialising in pocket watch tourbillons (Fig. 1) – to his great credit being entirely self-taught in the field [1, p. 198][1, pp. 374-377][2, p. 140][3, p. 40]. That is how Theodor Beyer, who ran Chronometrie Beyer and Beyer Uhrenmuseum in Zürich, came to have a Miklosch tourbillon, as well as a George Daniels tourbillon, in his collection. I told him about my growing fascination for watches and my plans to start organising auctions specialised in this field. Miklosch looked at me sympathetically, and, pulling a watch out of his pocket he said: “This is one of the best precision timepieces ever made”. Although I had only rudimentary knowledge of the subject at the time, I was immediately struck by the visual aesthetics of the movement. It was one of the flying tourbillons from the famous Glashütte School; to be precise the 1930-1931 tourbillon made by Max Hahn marked “School no. 3673” and “Special no. 21”. That was my eureka moment and one that ultimately marked the beginning of my watch career. Some of these iconic watches were to pass through my hands in the following 50 years, or even to find a place in my colle...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Omega Oct 22, 2024

So, You Want to Buy a Rolex? Well, Daddy-O, I’m here to Talk you Out of It!

If you’re in the market for a new watch, Tamim Almousa's advice is, if there’s a Rolex that you like, go for it. But if you just want a Rolex, you’re probably better off with an Omega. Here he explains why.

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