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Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur

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Manufacture vs Etablisseur

The structural difference between brands that make their own movements (manufactures) and those that buy them (etablisseurs).

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up

We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The world’s most followed Tik Tok superstar Khaby Lame fittingly wears the lamest watch… Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2022

The world’s most followed Tik Tok superstar Khaby Lame fittingly wears the lamest watch…

Social media has long overtaken our lives, but no platform today draws more eyeballs than Tik Tok. A Gen Z minefield of dances, duets, thirst traps, sketches,  “stitches”, and shenanigans, Tik Tok racks up more views than any of its competitors. During the pandemic, one gentleman who became internationally viral was Khaby Lame. The Senegalese-Italian … ContinuedThe post The world’s most followed Tik Tok superstar Khaby Lame fittingly wears the lamest watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2022

This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever

“If it’s not measurable then it’s not manageable.” It’s a saying beloved of accountants, number crunchers and other po-faced types, often looking to protect you from your, let’s face it, hare-brained ideas based on some purported “gut feel”.  But this would seem to be the personal manifesto of Andre Nader. The data analyst is a … ContinuedThe post This data analyst microchipped his wardrobe to track cost per wear. What he found could change how you buy watches forever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 7, 2022

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them)

EDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face … ContinuedThe post The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More Quill & Pad
Breguet Talks Fakes Jul 28, 2022

Emmanuel Breguet Talks Fakes In The Time Of Abraham-Louis Breguet And Much More

Jan Lidmaňský interviewed Emmanuel Breguet, vice president and head of patrimony at Breguet. He chatted with this direct descendant of Abraham-Louis Breguet about fakes in the time of Breguet, which watch is still missing from the Breguet Museum’s collection, how many pieces the company has acquired at auction over the last 20 years, and much more.

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club Time+Tide
Jun 30, 2022

That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club

Editor’s Note: The Nautilus is back in the news, but not for the reason we’ve become used to. Lofty aftermarket prices are beginning to face a tad of a correction. It seems this brand makes news on the way up and on the way back. But this is likely of little concern to these two chaps … ContinuedThe post That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Long rumoured Jun 16, 2022

An Industry Insider’s Take on François-Henry Bennahmias’ Success at Audemars Piguet

Long rumoured and now official, François-Henry Bennahmias will depart Audemars Piguet (AP) at the end of 2023 after an 11-year reign as chief executive. An iconoclast who dared to voice out loud what many people were thinking, he turbocharged a brand that had been coasting and was gradually being edged out by more aggressive competitors. Over the last ten years AP has more than doubled its turnover and operating margin, while maintaining its exclusivity thus enhancing its attraction for customers and collectors. Often criticised for its dependence on a single product family – the legendary Royal Oak contributes makes up over 90% of turnover and even more of profit – the Le Brassus brand has been able to reinvent its flagship product during François’ tenure, turning it into an icon in watchmaking. But Bennahmias’ marketing and business plan owes less to genius than to common sense and a unique ability to unite his team. Brands are crafted by people The path to success for the successful (re)launch of the horological icon is straightforward in hindsight but it is all related to human factors. I am a firm believer in the fact that brands are made by people and not spreadsheets. In a luxury brand, the personality of the chief executive (or creative director) is key to the promotion of its values. A strong personality with character traits suited to a pro boxer, Bennahmias has a strong charisma that allows him to motivate his troops and lead from the front. He has ...

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin released May 27, 2022

Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000

Watches with that integrated-bracelet appeal and 1970s aesthetic are all the rage right now. Recently Vacheron Constantin released its 222 to some acclaim, and Tissot’s smash hit, the PRX, both underlined what many had already noticed – people love the design and clear-cut lines of integrated bracelet watches.  Let’s face it: while most of would love … ContinuedThe post Five great integrated-bracelet watches for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chris Hemsworth shows how to do the red carpet right with a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton EDITOR’S May 26, 2022

Chris Hemsworth shows how to do the red carpet right with a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton

EDITOR’S NOTE: Let’s face it watch spotting is a game that’s fraught with error. Yesterday, we suggested in this story that Chris Hemsworth was wearing a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Extra Thin. We’ve since received confirmation that the watch in question was, in fact, the skeletonised version of this watch. The copy below has now been … ContinuedThe post Chris Hemsworth shows how to do the red carpet right with a Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Celebrates the Grandeur of the Ancient World SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates May 24, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Celebrates the Grandeur of the Ancient World

Announced in 2019, Vacheron Constantin’s partnership with the Louvre has given birth to the Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations, a quartet of watches featuring artisanal, micro-sculptures in a nod to bygone empires. Each of the four watches bears on its face a scaled-down reproduction of an artefact in the Louvre – the Great Sphinx of Tanis, the lion relief from Palace of Darius I at Susa, the Winged Victory of Samothrace, and the bust of Caesar Augustus. These objects have each been reproduced with creativity and artistry to create dials that live up to the métiers d’art label. Buste de Auguste Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin’s Metiers d’Art watches reflect the brand’s versatility in artisanal decoration, both in terms of technique and style. But the Great Civilisations are notable for being more complex in terms of construction and materials than past Metiers d’Art watches. The dials are comprised of several layers and sections, in turn decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from enamelling to mosaic, in order to create the depth and detail they possess. Importantly, the result is greater than the sum of the parts – the dials are attractive in form and impressive in detail. Lion de Darius with its Roman mosaic dial base and relief lion Though all four watches are exceptional examples of Vacheron Constantin’s metier, the Grand sphinx du Tanis and Lion de Darius certainly stand out over the other two, just because of...

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces May 18, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597 in White Gold and Blue

Introduced in 2005, the Breguet Tradition is characterised by its inverted movement that reveals most of the movement on the dial. It was a modern concept inspired by the 19th century: the movement was inspired by the souscription pocket watches created by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Since its launch the Tradition has grown into a full-fledged collection ranging from time-only models to the top-of-the-line tourbillon with fusee-and-chain. One of the simplest, yet most striking, is the Tradition Quantième Rétrograde 7597, which has been given a new look with an attractive blue dial. Initial thoughts I have always found the Tradition attractive, particularly the early models with smaller case sizes that tend to work better with in traditional palettes like yellow gold or “pink-on-pink”. The newer models are more sophisticated mechanically, but their cases are larger while the colours are mostly modern in greys and blacks, so the retro-elegance is absent. But the latest Quantième Rétrograde is amongst the best looking Tradition models in the current catalogue. It’s mechanically identical to the original introduced in 2020, but now it gets a two-tone dial that has more contrast, giving it with a stronger character and easily setting it apart from the more classical Tradition models. The date indicator makes a 180 degree jump at the end of each month The blue-on-grey livery isn’t novel, since it was used before on the boutique edition Tradition 7097, a simpler watch tha...

The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better Time+Tide
Casio ak G-Shock GA-B2100 even May 14, 2022

The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better

If you think the Casio G-Shock GA2100 is an amazing watch, you’d be absolutely correct. However, things are about to get better. Building on the success of the so-called CasiOak (our #1 watch review of 2021 by views) comes the new Casio G-Shock GA-B2100 lineup, bringing some welcome upgrades to the table in terms of functionality, while … ContinuedThe post The updates that make the new CasiOak G-Shock GA-B2100 even better appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring? Time+Tide
May 10, 2022

The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring?

EDITOR’S NOTE: Let’s face it, a lot of marital traditions have thankfully changed. These days, if you choose to ask the bride’s father for permission to marry them, it’s more of a tokenistic gesture to get the old bastard on side rather than a potentially deal-breaking request. Same-sex couples can finally get married in most … ContinuedThe post The rules of engagement: Can you buy the person you plan to marry a watch instead of a ring? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022) Quill & Pad
Hermes May 8, 2022

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur: Time Traveling Around The World (And A Standout Star At Watches And Wonders 2022)

For many in the watch world, the fairly unassuming Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur – with no tourbillon, no chimes, and nothing insanely in your face – became the watch of the fair at Watches and Wonders 2022. In fact, in our post-fair round table it was the “best in show” for at least half of our on-location team. Elizabeth Doerr takes a closer look at this imaginative opus with practical use.

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection Time+Tide
Omega x Swatch blast off Mar 23, 2022

Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection

Standing in the Omega HQ in Bienne, Petros Protopapas is visibly excited. The Brand Heritage Director of Omega is holding forth under a vast cosmic backdrop that depicts the planets in technicolour detail in a star-lit sky. “This revolutionises the Swiss watch industry for me,” declares Petros with tangible emotion in his voice. “This is what … ContinuedThe post Omega x Swatch blast off together on the BioCeramic MoonSwatch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie watch Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie watch

There’s no shortage of watches that divide opinion and create controversy, but such polarising views are by no means exclusive to the watch world. Polish video-game developers CD Projekt Red became somewhat infamous when their blockbuster RPG shooter Cyberpunk 2077 was delayed three times over a year, all in the spirit of making sure it … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines Time+Tide
TAG Heuer ushered Feb 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines

A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1 SJX Watches
Feb 7, 2022

In-Depth: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch No. 1

A quartet representing the entirety of Philippe Dufour’s repertoire went under the hammer last year, with the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 setting the record for any Dufour sold publicly when it achieved the equivalent of US$5.2 million including fees. Sold at the same auction, but for substantially less, was the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch no. 1. Despite the relative values, the pocket watch is arguably a more significant timepiece within Mr Dufour’s work. Why? Initial thoughts In today’s wristwatch-centric era, the fact that it is a pocket watch counts against it. That was also the verdict of the market – the pocket watch sold for half as much as the wristwatch in November 2021. But the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch is the ultimate distillation of Philippe Dufour’s philosophy, the ideal synthesis of the inspiration and impetus behind his creations. He has long stated, both publicly and to me in past conversations, that his watches are a reverential homage to the haute horlogerie produced in the Vallée de Joux during its heyday before the Quartz Crisis, the period between the late 19th to the mid 20th centuries. Timepieces of that era, especially those with ebauches made by the valley’s best specialists like Louis-Elisee Piguet and Ami LeCoutre, are the best watches ever made in Switzerland in his view. And the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch can pass for a timepiece from the late 19th century, perhaps even one made by Mr Dufour’s favourite historical w...