Revolution
Up Close With Heuer Expert Arno Haslinger
The world’s leading expert on Heuer chronographs talks about how he got started as a watch collector and, in particular, why he became enamoured with vintage Heuers.
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SJX Watches
In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs
Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...
Quill & Pad
Baselworld Retrospective: Chronicling 102 Years From 1917 To 2019
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."
Deployant
Hip to be Square – Six Watches with a Square Case
We thought that it will be a great idea to introduce some vibrancy into the watch collecting scene, this time with six great watches that has a square case.
SJX Watches
Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros
Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...
Time+Tide
The One I Got Away From – The 1971 King Seiko 5626-7000
For me, the King Seiko 5626-7000 "one that got away" - a watch I sold too soon - but a bit of research revealed that I got quite lucky.The post The One I Got Away From – The 1971 King Seiko 5626-7000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches
It’s a fitting time to publish our first ever Female Wind Down, in place of the usual Friday Wind Down. New websites are launching, collectives are forming and congregating on Instagram and Clubhouse, and the noise level questioning many of the fundamental tenets of the watch industry – stemming from the one that designates it … ContinuedThe post FEMALE WIND DOWN: That is not a typo, this is not a test. 5 new ways women can get into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category?
The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category. But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what … ContinuedThe post Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
IWC Revives the Fliegerchronograph Ceramic 3705
Perhaps the most widely leaked recent launch, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Tribute to 3705” is a remake of the uncommon, ceramic-case Fliegerchronograph of 1994. Available only online via IWC’s web store, the Tribute to 3705 reproduces the look of the original, but in a larger case made of Ceratanium, essentially a titanium-ceramic composite. And the movement is the in-house cal. 69380. Initial thoughts Possessing the clear, functional style of IWC’s first-generation pilot’s watches, the original 3705 was a good looking watch. Being a pretty faithful remake, the Tribute to 3705 is almost as attractive. A little of the original’s proportions have been lost – the hour hand on the remake looks a bit short – but the Tribute to 3705 is appealing. And it’s also an upgrade with the new case material as well as the in-house movement, which enhances the appeal. It is, however, expensive at US$11,900. That’s 20% more pricey than the Top Gun “SFTI” chronograph, which has a ceramic case and the same movement. No doubt conceived to capitalise on desirability of the original 3705 – an example once owned by former IWC chief executive Gunter Blumlein sold for a little under US$54,000 in 2018 – the Tribute to 3705 will be sold exclusively online via IWC.com. That makes the project feel a little opportunistic, since it means IWC will retain almost all of the margin on the watch, instead of having to split it with a third-party retailer or even a...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER
Johnny Dowell, a.k.a King Nerd – who was one of our Londoners featured recently in a series by European Editor Mike Christensen – is a watch customizer with a very sharp point of difference. He is an engraver, and applies his craft to watches, among other things – it’s a world of traditional craftsmanship you wouldn’t … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Lesablier Sport Classic Review: A Cascade of Correct Design Choices
While it may not appeal to everyone, it is clear that a lot of thought has gone into the design of this watch. It isn’t another homage to a classic design, and moreover, it isn’t weird just for the sake of being weird.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke
Many of us, myself included, have the 5711 steel Nautilus cemented onto our watch grail wish-list. Now, the infamous eight year waiting-list you’d have to endure after ordering one is no more. Patek Philippe’s top selling reference is being discontinued, and many a collector on an exclusive AD list will return to square one, with … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods?
We all love Instagram, right? Especially for the watch community, the Facebook-owned social media app is an integral hub that connects horological enthusiasts around the world. But what if Instagram was making you a target for robbery? That was exactly what allegedly happened in Milan with a gang of four nicknamed the “acrobat thieves” who … ContinuedThe post How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Girard-Perregaux Pens Partnership with Aston Martin
Girard-Perregaux is revealed as Official Watch Partner for Aston Martin Lagonda and Aston Martin Cognizant Formula One™️ Team
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph blends heritage flair with a modern titanium case
The watch world is definitely enjoying a heritage binge with vintage-inspired timepieces the dominant trend throughout the industry. You might think the end of this trend is on the horizon, but when you appreciate how deep some manufacturers’ archives are, you start to realise that the fun has only just begun. Longines, for example, is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Avigation BigEye Chronograph blends heritage flair with a modern titanium case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Get the all-clear with the G-Shock Transparent Series (including the “Casioak”)
Liven up your watch collection with these exciting pieces with clear cases and straps from G-Shock's Transparent series.The post INTRODUCING: Get the all-clear with the G-Shock Transparent Series (including the “Casioak”) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph
Given GaryG's musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, he thinks it appropriate to dedicate this “Behind the Lens” entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5950A. What’s so special about this watch? Well, first of all it’s a split-seconds chronograph. What else?
Time+Tide
This is why Norifumi Seki looks set to become the Next Big Thing in watchmaking
Last week it happened again. I was standing in line at a coffee shop and, of the seven people queuing, I was the only one wearing a proper watch. There were four naked wrists, one Garmin and one Apple Watch constantly buzzing and flashing. Now if we have any chance of turning this sad situation … ContinuedThe post This is why Norifumi Seki looks set to become the Next Big Thing in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”
When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...
Revolution
The Rolex Submariner “No-Date” – Seven Decades of a Classic
The Rolex Submariner has been an institution in its own right since 1953. The classic dive watch has undergone another pitch-perfect evolution in 2020.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Arguably the Best Looking Royal Oak Offshore Ever
Over the past 28 years, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore has evolved into a cult watch that is simultaneously synonymous with success and street cred.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago?
Now I wholeheartedly confess to being a die-hard Seiko fan with two of the dearest favourites in my watch box being my inky black delight – Grand Seiko SBGR053 – and my limited edition Baby Marinemaster. The latter one is pertinent to this article as one of the many “inspired by” 62MAS heritage reissues from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This is how Rod Stewart’s Cartier got stolen during a pitch invasion at Wembley
Rod Stewart recounts how his Cartier watch was stolen during a pitch invasion after a 1977 football match when Scotland beat England.The post This is how Rod Stewart’s Cartier got stolen during a pitch invasion at Wembley appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Interview: Stefanie Ng, CEO Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia
Named chief executive officer of Audemars Piguet (AP) in Southeast Asia at the end of 2019, Stefanie Ng was in charge of the brand’s marketing efforts in the region before being tapped for the top job. A respected industry insider whose first job was in watchmaking, Ms Ng is now responsible for one of the fastest-growing regions at one of the best-performing luxury-watch brands. With many pandemic restrictions lifted, I sat down with Ms Ng for a chat earlier in the year, where she explained what has kept her at AP for almost all of her career, and also provided some hints as to the watchmaker’s upcoming launches. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You were appointed CEO of AP in the region in October 2019. Tell us a bit about your career before that. I started my career in the watch industry, at Swatch Group, first at Breguet, and then at Blancpain and CK Calvin Klein, where I did marketing. So the world of luxury watches was familiar when I joined AP as the regional marketing manager, [a role] you would call brand manager today. I handled all marketing activities across Southeast Asia, that’s eight to nine countries, for eight years. You have been at AP for most of your career. What has kept you there? The company and its people. Its values and direction have given me interesting perspectives on the watch industry, while helping expand my horizons, first as a marketer, and then as a leader. And of course, it’s also the brand – AP is where I feel at...
Time+Tide
Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours
Hublot has always been at the forefront of exploring new materials and colours. Known for their motto “the art of fusion”, Hublot constantly pushes the boundaries in regard to what we all expect a watch to look like – as well as what it is made from. There are few brands, if any, where we … ContinuedThe post Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Women Talking Watches On “Who Needs A Book Club!”: Men Might Learn Something (Video)
In this first episode of “Who Needs A Book Club!”, Karishma Karer, Sandra Lane, and Elizabeth Doerr discuss buying a first watch, basic at-home care of mechanical watches, how to be taken seriously as a female in watches, and the best watches to gift a man or a women. This is not just for women: men might learn something here too.
Quill & Pad
The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise
While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, Cartier's Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what's going on with Cartier's high watchmaking division now?
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Quietly Drops a Prototype Series of Chronographs
Having gotten its start with collaborations with brands like Habring2, Massena introduced its first wristwatch under its own name last year. Now it’s following up with a hush-hush launch of the Archetype 0.0, a “pre-series prototype” watch that’s neither a limited edition nor regular production. Like the earlier Uni-Racer, the Archetype 0.0 is a vintage-style chronograph conceived with an eye for details that only an enthusiast would appreciate. But unlike its predecessor, the Archetype 0.0 isn’t modelled on a specific vintage watch, instead it is a blend of elements that give it a mid-20th century air, while also having modern conveniences like a 100 m water-resistance rating and a domed sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts The Archetype 0.0 has a “sector” dial with a gilt finish – glossy black lacquer with gold print – a perennial favourite that’s not novel but always appealing. Similar dials are attempted often, but because Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a veteran watch collector and industry insider, the Archetype 0.0 gets even the smallest elements right. The numerals, for instance, have tiny serifs, while the six is “open”, as they would be on vintage watches. And the darker print for the logo and sub-dials is another delightful detail. Although vintage in style, the case is unusual in that it’s not usually found with gilt, “sector” dials in vintage watches, making the combination novel in a subtle manner. Notably, the case is rated t...
Deployant
Gong Xi Fa Cai: greetings of abundance in the Year of the Ox
Happy Chinese New Year of the Ox. May this year bring blessings of good health, great prosperity and abundance in every good thing. We take the day off to celebrate. Remember to check back on Saturday for more watch reviews.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Patek Philippe President speaks on the retirement of the Nautilus 5711 and the Bamford x T+T GMT1 has been spotted in the wild
It’s been a busy week, both in the watch world and out. A few hours ago it was announced that Melbourne will be going back into lockdown (thankfully for only five days) and earlier in the week we heard more details from Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern about the discontinuation of the Nautilus ref. 5711. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Patek Philippe President speaks on the retirement of the Nautilus 5711 and the Bamford x T+T GMT1 has been spotted in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.