Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Neo-Vintage 40mm Rolex Sea-Dweller, A White Gold Lange 1, And A Vacheron Overseas Dual-Time
Plus a well-executed IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and a British Racing Green Breitling Bentley Premier.
4,855 articles · 2,281 videos found · page 61 of 238
Hodinkee
Plus a well-executed IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar, and a British Racing Green Breitling Bentley Premier.
Worn & Wound
We’re nearing the end of the year, and being the type of person who is already keenly interested in list making as a form of assessment, I’ve naturally started to think about the watches, brands, and new releases that have left the biggest mark in 2023. For me personally, there probably isn’t a more important release or addition to my own collection than the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite, a watch I’ve made no secret of my admiration for many times over. Arcanaut looms large for me as an independent brand that is accessible, contemporary in their aesthetic, and willing to experiment, all things I put a high value on when it comes to new watches. Their latest releases are something of an extension of the D’Arc Matter Colors Collection we told you about a few months ago, and lean heavily into the brand’s commitment to experimenting with materials in new and interesting ways. First up is the Havender, which takes the Arc II platform and gives it a dial in a gorgeous shade of light purple. But this isn’t simply a coat of paint on a base dial – according to Arcanaut, the Havender represents the brand’s most ambitious composite dial to date. The source of the dial and its unique color comes from a surprising place: Scandinavian mussel shells. Part of the ethos of the Arcanaut brand is to source components locally whenever possible, and brand co-owner James Thompson saw an interesting opportunity via a mussel farm located close to Aracanaut’s headquarters. Once a...
Worn & Wound
They say lightning doesn’t strike twice – but what about Red Lightning? Zurich-based Maurice de Mauriac has once again ignited the horological scene with their latest creation, the L1 Red Lightning. Known for being the choice of creatives worldwide, the brand has reimagined their L1 series with a red makeover that makes a bold statement. While the L1 Red Lightning’s predecessors were known for their clean aesthetic and a more pure design, this new iteration of the classic has just a bit of rock ‘n roll infused into it. In fact, it was Swiss musician, Crime, who first gave inspiration to Maurice de Mauriac for the vibrant change to the L1. And now, everyone can enjoy the bold addition to their line-up. While the red dial might be the most obvious feature of this watch, let’s not forget about the broad appeal that Maurice de Mauriac has in the market. The L1 Red Lightning boasts a stainless steel case with a black DLC coating, providing a sleek and durable exterior. The visible back and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides showcase the meticulous craftsmanship. With a diameter of 39mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 46.6mm, the watch strikes a balance between presence and wearability. This L1 is powered by the automatic La Joux-Perret G100 caliber, ensuring precision with a generous power reserve of 68 hours. With a water-resistance at 10 ATM, it’ll fit into most regular-use situations (or, perhaps, a crazy night out with a Swiss pop star!)....
SJX Watches
As a gifted and passionate watchmaker, Marco Lang is committed to preserving his legacy for future generations. This extraordinary commitment involves providing unrestricted access to all the construction data related to every component of his Zweigesicht-1 timepiece on his website. This open-source initiative aims to assist future watchmakers in servicing Marco’s watches for generations to come. The beginning of independence When a watchmaker, especially an independent one, makes the commitment to ensure that his creations will remain fully functional and cherished by generations to come, it truly demonstrates the depth of his devotion and altruism toward both his present and future clientele. Marco Lang embarked on his journey as an independent watchmaker when he founded his modest workshop in Dresden in 2003, in collaboration with Mirko Heyne and Lothar Zieger, which eventually became known as Lang & Heyne. In 2019, he once again chose the path of an independent watchmaker, this time working entirely on his own. He found a delicate balance between idealism and art, a topic he delves into in this article he penned for us during the year he decided to embark on this new chapter. Marco Lang in his workshop, located within his home. Photo – Marco Lang The subsequent year marked the introduction of his inaugural creation under the “Marco Lang” signature, the double-faced Zweigesicht-1, housing the remarkable calibre ml-01. The calibre ml-01 With all 18 pieces of the ...
Hodinkee
Introducing the G-SHOCK MRG-BF1000E-1A9, a commemorative limited-edition timepiece that marks G-SHOCK’s 40th and the FROGMAN’s 30th anniversary.
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Worn & Wound
At the end of last year, Massena LAB had an unexpected hit with a pair of limited edition Type XX chronographs signed by Mathey-Tissot. Those watches were inspired by a watch in Massena LAB founder William Massena’s personal collection, and that’s also the genesis of his latest project bearing the Mathy-Tissot name. This time, the watch in question is the Mergulhador Skin Diver, a watch that you’d be forgiven for being enamored with based on name alone. “Mergulhador” means “diver” in Portuguese, and as you’d probably guess, the original version of the watch was marketed to the Portuguese market in the 1970s, and was aimed at both military and civilian customers. It’s a bit obscure, but that’s what’s fun about it, and why it makes sense for someone with Massena’s knowledge and background to bring it to a larger audience. The main attraction here is the dial, which is a rich amber fumé that gives the appearance of being weatherbeaten for decades. The amber color is complemented by bright orange hour markers and an orange minute track against a black background that feels right out of the 1970s central watch casting. The dial also features oversized white lume plots at each hour, the size of which is certainly in keeping with the general 1970s aesthetic. I think Massena LAB deserves credit here for resisting the urge to use a “faux-tina” tone for the lume. That might have been the obvious way to go for such a vintage influenced watch, but the to...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mike has spent way too much time pondering his next watch purchase and how to appropriately mark the occasion of purchasing a new home. Time to bring in the big guns – his wife.
Revolution
A collaboration with Seiko to mark the 50th year of the Nissan Skyline results in a wild ride.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin is one of the three Grande Dames of watchmaking…the othe two being Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Interestingly, it is currently the only one which is within a large group, in this case Groupe Richemont, which count amongst the members of its stable luminaries like A. Lange & Sohne, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Cartier,Read More
SJX Watches
MB&F; has generated a lot of attention this year with a number of new releases celebrating the brand’s own 20th anniversary. Today MB&F; celebrates the 75th anniversary of one of its early champions and long-time retail partners, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, one of the most influential retailers in the Middle East, best known for organising Dubai Watch Week. To mark the occasion, MB&F; has developed two new limited edition models of its groundbreaking perpetual calendar, the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, on a sporty rubber strap, and the Legacy Machine Perpetual Baguette Diamonds, which is the first LM Perpetual to feature a gem-set bezel. Both models wear the typical Legacy Machine (LM) look and feature a vibrant blue colour used once before for another Seddiqi collaboration. Each watch is extremely limited; the titanium EVO will be a limited edition of just seven pieces, while only five pieces will be made of the steel version with its baguette-set bezel. Initial thoughts It’s a big year for milestone anniversaries, which is a good thing for watch collectors who are unusually spoiled for choice. That’s especially true for clients of Seddiqi, who can choose between two appealing new variants of one of the most intellectually compelling perpetual calendars on the market. They say it’s good to have friends in high places, but evidently it’s also good to have friends in dry places. Speaking about MB&F;’s long-term relationship with Seddiqi, founder Maximilian Busser noted,...
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SJX Watches
Seiko changed watchmaking when it introduced the Quartz Astron in December 1969. Though it cost as much as a small car, it was the first commercially available quartz watch. Technology and economies of scale would rapidly reduce the cost of the quartz watch, enough that by the late 1970s the Swiss watch industry was in full blown meltdown – the Quartz Crisis. To mark the 50th anniversary of that landmark watch, Seiko has just introduced the 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. Though powered by a latest generation, solar-powered and GPS-enabled quartz movement, the Astron anniversary edition is visually a remake of the original – and it still costs as much as a small car, or about US$35,000. Notably, the Astron anniversary comes a couple months after Citizen introduced its own an ultra-high end quartz watch, also with a solid gold case, but with a different approach to technology. The case of the Astron anniversary is 18k yellow gold and cushion-shaped like the original, but slightly larger at 40.9mm in diameter. The top surface of the case is “hand carved” with a fine, grain-like motif echoing the textured finish of the vintage Quartz Astron. And the pattern on the remake is a reference to itself: the carved grain motif is executed in a circular manner around the bezel, a nod to the fact that Seiko has come full circle in reproducing the 1969 design. Similarly, the dial on the new watch has a vertical, linear graining, also inspired by the finish...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list. Today, we move on from a series about alternatives to different Rolex models. But we’re staying close because, this time, we will look at alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay. It is hard to deny that the Black Bay has become a benchmark series of watches under €5,000 since its 2012 […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Black Bay Alternatives In 2026 to read the full article.
Fratello
This year marked my second year at Watches and Wonders, and guess what: I enjoyed 2026 a lot more than the previous year. In fact, if I include Geneva Watch Days and historic Baselworld visits, this year was a standout. While I didn’t walk away with any must-haves on my list, I relaxed a bit […] Visit Fresh From The Fair: Mike’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X. It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine. For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...
SJX Watches
In a rather surprising move, Rolex unveiled a revamped and re-engineered version of the Yacht-Master II. Although the original was discontinued in 2024 the Geneva-based brand decided to give the quirky watch another chance at life, while also making the user’s life much easier. Initial thoughts The original Yacht-Master II was undoubtedly a polarising timepiece. People would either love the bulky aesthetics or instantly dismiss it as an unpalatable timepiece. Add to that the complicated Command Ring bezel programming sequence for the regatta timer and the result is a perhaps the quirkiest Rolex creation in modern times. Apparently the timepiece was performing well enough to warrant an encore. The Yacht-Master II was thus updated to include both Rolex’s latest innovations (such as the Chronergy escapement) and a revised user interface. In terms of aesthetics, the 44 mm timepiece is still hard to love at first, but definitely not as excessive as past versions. The biggest change was perhaps the shift to a regular bi-directional 60 minute click bezel, which replaced the cumbersome Command Ring system used previously. The ten-minute countdown markings were moved to a raised flange on the dial. The regatta minutes and seconds hands now turn counterclockwise, a suggestive way of approaching countdown. Although few Yacht-Master II pieces will realistically be used for yacht race timing, the complication can be as useful as any given chronograph. The new caliber 4162...
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SJX Watches
Having debuted its first proprietary movement inside the Caballero last year, Singer Reimagined is building on the calibre by adding a second time zone. The DualTrack is powered by the same cleverly constructed movement, a manual wind with an impressive six day power reserve, but gains a 24-hour ring for a GMT function. The watch adopts the cushion-shaped case that’s the brand signature, while the dial similarly preserve the aesthetic found on the brand’s trademark central chronographs, but with a 24-hour ring around the dial. Because the second time zone is an add-on over the calibre, the 24-scale ring is independently adjustable, rather than the local hour hand, making this “caller” GMT rather than a true “traveller” GMT. Initial thoughts I like the Singer aesthetic so this design is appealing, and it implements the dual time zone function logically and legibly. The in-house movement with a long power reserve is also a plus, especially since it has a novel four-barrel construction. The only downside here is the “caller” type second time zone function. A “true” GMT with an independent local hour hand, as found on the Rolex GMT-Master II, is the most convenient format, since it requires fewest steps when setting the time while travelling, but this requires a built-from-the-ground-up calibre. All things considered, that can be forgiven since the DualTrack is an attractive proposition overall. Like last year’s Caballero, the DualTrack is a useful watch ...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2026 kicks off next week, and this year marks Sinn’s first appearance at the fair. Likely to stir up excitement for this debut, the brand introduces four models ahead of the show. The lineup includes two versions of the 544, the limited 936 S chronograph, and the more unconventional 308 Hunting Watch. […] Visit Sinn Introduces Four New Models Ahead Of Watches And Wonders: The 544, 544 RS, 308, And 936 S to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Pointer dates are under-represented in today's market, so leave it to an industry insider to shine a new light on them with an eye-catching release.
Hodinkee
The Dutch-born CEO of Swiss brand Frederique Constant talks value, pricing, volumes, success with women's watches, and the challenging U.S. market.
Hodinkee
Plus TanTan Wang joins to talk about Oris's new Bullseye Big Crown Pointer Date, the sale of Baume & Mercier by Richemont, and Omega's 300M diver for Milano Cortina.
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SJX Watches
A new independent voice emerges with the L’Impétrant, the debut watch from Stéphane Pierre, combining a bi-retrograde time display with an architecturally distinctive movement. Put together by an all-star roster of specialists, the L’Impétrant is a fresh take on a familiar format. Initial thoughts The central question with any debuting independent is whether ambition matches execution. Stéphane Pierre’s L’Impétrant is quirky and eccentric - and just as importantly seems well made thanks to the efforts of some 20 contributing specialists across fields such as movement construction, machining, electroplating, stamping and finishing. Given the evergreen popularity of the high-end, time-only format, it may well find its audience. The L’Impétrant’s visual staple is a set of enormous 19 mm retrograde hands - one for the minutes and the other for the hours. The bi-retrograde complication is no longer uncommon, but The L’Impétrant’s overlapping arrangement of the hands, and the luxurious construction of the mechanism, is unusual, helping it stand out within this niche. The mastermind behind the L’Impétrant has had an unusual career. Stéphane Pierre originally trained as a mechanical engineer and, intriguingly, has spent time working for both the Swatch Group and in the military sector. The L’Impétrant is essentially a very high-end time-only watch, and as such it enters a crowded market. However, rather than just developing a basic time-only watch...
Fratello
A round case is hardly a radical idea in watchmaking. For Bianchet, though, it absolutely is. At Watches and Wonders 2026, the brand will present the UltraFino Rotondo, and while it clearly belongs to the same family as the watch we’ve previously known as the UltraFino, this isn’t just a simple reshaping exercise. It marks […] Visit Introducing: The Bianchet UltraFino Rotondo - The Brand’s First-Ever Round Watch to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Dennison's new ALD Dual Time debuts a fresh new bracelet, and a trio of dual dials which feature hour markers and numerals for the first timeThe post Dennison’s new ALD Dual Time Shades collections blends the conventional with the unconventional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There comes a time in every watch collector’s life when they fall in love with a watch they know others in the hobby may potentially scoff at. Whether it be misconceptions around the brand, the use of cheaper movements and parts, seedy advertising campaigns, or just overall subjective taste in design, it’s a phenomenon that exists as one of the very few downsides of the collecting space. It’s important to note, however, that this frame of mind lies on a spectrum of course, with some watches being far more notable enemies of the wristwatch state than others. The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X is a watch that has fallen into the cracks of the watch market and a piece, I believe, may initially conjure negative sentiments by some corners of the collecting sphere. Chase-Durer was originally advertised in magazines and on the very early days of the internet, where zealous dial-up internet subscribers would surf the World Wide Web in hopes of making their very first online purchase. They never held the same staying power as others of the watch industry, akin to the 38mm mail-order film cameras found in years’ worth of popular and print media when compared to Canon or Nikon. However, there is a lot to like about the brand and, in this case, the Wing Commander X. If you’re someone who’s on the fence about whether or not you’re a fan of this watch just from aesthetics and brand recognition alone, welcome in––let me walk you through what makes this an interesting pi...
SJX Watches
One of the most influential watchmakers of the post-quartz era has re-emerged with a groundbreaking slow-beat oscillator that cleverly avoids the amplitude constraints typical of such constructions. The Pulse60 is the latest project from Dominique Renaud’s eponymous workshop Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud (HHDR), and the first watch to bear his full name in a decade. The Pulse60 runs at just 7,200 times per hour - a frequency of just 1 Hz – a quarter the rate of a conventional movement. Ordinarily, such a slow beat would leave the movement susceptible to external forces, but here it has been combined with a proprietary escapement that overcomes the challenge. While the technical ingenuity is expected given Mr Renaud’s pedigree, the relatively accessible price of under CHF50,000 is unexpected, especially given the state of the market today. Initial thoughts It’s been a decade since Dominique Renaud came out of retirement, but his most public contributions since then have come under the Renaud Tixier banner. Latecomers to independent watchmaking may be less familiar with Mr Renaud’s work, but he played an important role in establishing the contemporary high-end watchmaking landscape. The Pulse60 is the first watch to carry the Dominique Renaud name since the exotic and expensive DR01 Twelve First, which was not made in significant numbers. But unlike its short-lived predecessor, which featured a low-amplitude, high-frequency escapement of Mr Renaud’s own des...
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