Hodinkee
Second Opinions: A $27,500 Cloisonné-Dialed Oris Aquis Makes More Sense Than You Might Think
"We do our work quietly without all that needless fuss." –Sun Wukong, in Chapter 23 of Journey to the West, by Wu Cheng'en
Results for Manufacture vs Etablisseur
1,763 articles · 353 videos found · page 61 of 71
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Hodinkee
Revolution
Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Blast Moonstruck
Astronomical complications to track sun, moon and earth are given an ultra-modern and edgy face in Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Moonstruck.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: “New Old Stock” Rolex Milgauss Ref. 1019 and F.P. Journe Octa Chrono 38 mm
A newcomer to the world of watch auctions, Loupe This was founded by a pair of industry veterans and operates in a distinctly 21st century manner: sales are conducted entirely online, with about ten watches on the block at any one time. The offerings on Loupe This are diverse. In December 2021 it sold an example of our Habring2 Erwin “Star” for US$15,400 including fees, while the latest to go under the hammer are two interesting, long-discontinued watches from notable watchmakers based in Geneva – but otherwise radically different. One is the a Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 – in pristine, “new old stock” condition – and the other, an F.P. Journe Octa Chronographe 38 mm. Rolex Milgauss ref. 1019 Produced from 1960 to 1988, the ref. 1019 was the longest-running reference of the Milgauss, the brand’s famous magnetism-resistant watch conceived for engineers and nuclear scientists. Despite the lengthy production run, the ref. 1019 is relatively rare because the model wasn’t produced in sizeable numbers for the simple reason that it didn’t sell well. In fact, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss altogether in 1988, before reviving it some two decades later. While the rarity certainly boosts its appeal, the ref. 1019 is attractive and unusual for being one of the most fuss-free Rolex “Professional” sports watch. The ref. 1019 is also the simplest version of the Milgauss, doing without the rotating bezel or “lightning” seconds hand found on earlier models. It ...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022
Unless you’ve been marooned on a desert island for the past several years, you’re probably all too aware of the rainbow colourway boom in the horological world. And let’s face it, some of these timepieces are, shall we say, aesthetically more harmonious than others. For every rainbow Daytona out there, there are twice as many … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy 21 Chroma Limited Edition brings rainbow vibes to 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Time Only
While a pioneer in luxury-sports watches with its gold-meets-rubber models of the 1980s, Hublot is a relatively new arrival to the world of luxury-sports watches with an integrated bracelet – with its opening act being the flyback chronograph of 2020. Now a simple, fuss-free version joins the line up. At LVMH Watch Week 2022 the brand has taken the covers off the Big Bang Integral Time Only, which has an integrated bracelet naturally, but also is the most compact men’s Big Bang to date at 40 mm wide. And in typical Hublot style, the new Time Only is available in a trio of materials, none of which is steel but instead titanium, ceramic, or yellow gold. Initial thoughts It’s great to see Hublot adapt its products to accommodate demand for small(er) watches, especially since the Big Bang has always been, well, big. The trimmer size of the Time Only brings it closer to the dimensions of the traditional luxury-sports watches, which are essentially elaborate bracelets that tell time. Despite its uncharacteristically smaller proportions, the new Time Only is still very much a Hublot. It manages to capture the Hublot style in both design and materials, while avoiding some of the cliches of the integrated-sports watch category, namely a patterned dial or a case and bracelet in steel. The most obvious difference between the Time Only and the typical integrated-bracelet sport watch is the dial. Doing away with the dial altogether and exposing the movement underneath leaves it ...
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Capy vs Barking Dogs
Deployant
Review: The New Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec
The year was 1996, and Chopard had just inaugurated its own manufactory in Fleurier. The Chopard Manufacture was dedicated to crafting so-called “L.U.C” movements entirely decorated by hand. Today, over a quarter of a century on and dozens of models later, the L.U.C collection has grown into Chopard’s most prestigious line, with plenty of awardsRead More
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
When Vacheron Constantin celebrated its 260th anniversary in 2015 with the Harmony collection of cushion-shaped watches, the standout was easily the split-seconds chronograph. Seemingly ordinary on its face, the Harmony split-seconds was powered by the cal. 3500, an all-new rattrapante chronograph calibre with a novel automatic winding mechanism. The movement was gorgeous, but disappeared from the catalogue – until last year. The cal. 3500 made its comeback with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) watches, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is a limited edition – only 15 pieces in fact – that utilises platinum generously throughout the watch, but it is unique as there is no standard production equivalent in the catalogue. In short, it is a special watch. The cal. 3500 with its intricate chronograph mechanism and novel peripheral rotor Initial thoughts On its face, the Traditionnelle split-seconds is an elegant watch with a restrained, almost simple style. Its proportions are wide and slim, creating a graceful profile. The thinness exaggerates the case diameter slightly, so it does seem a bit wider than it is, especially with the longish lugs. In typical CEP style, the dial is nearly monochromatic, rendered in grey and silver, with the only colour coming from the indicator hands for the chronograph and power reserve. It’s a simple combination, but a good one. The pla...
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 19, it’s the Bremont Broadsword Jet… While there are … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Bremont Broadsword Jet (#19) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface
The complete calendar is a complication that is, in itself, a sum of other complications, namely the day, date, month, and moon phase. Not to be confused with the triple calendar (which does without the moon phase), the complete calendar is one of horology’s most practical and poetic displays. In the realm of luxury watchmaking,Read More
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 26, it’s the Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold (#26) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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I Brutally Reviewed Roman Reigns' Watch Collection to His Face
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 27, it’s the Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky (#27) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team boldly endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 28, it’s the innovative spirit of the … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic (#28) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by web traffic in our best radio DJ voice: at number 29, it’s the Seiko SPB217J. It’s always hard to … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Seiko SPB217J (#29) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems
Rainbow watches are possibly the most divisive sub-genre around. They’re loud, they’re blingy, and the word ostentatious barely even begins to cover them. Yet no matter how many people swear they would never be caught dead wearing one, I would bet that there’s a nagging voice in the back of everyone’s minds just wishing to … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang King Gold Rainbow is drenched in multicoloured gems appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30)
Editor’s note: There were a lot of watches released in 2021 and the Time+Tide team endeavoured to review as many of them as we possibly could. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year by traffic in our best radio DJ voice. At number 30, it’s the Norqain Neverest Night Sight… In my … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Norqain Neverest Night Sight (#30) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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I Brutally Reviewed Ian Poulter's Watch Collection to His Face
Time+Tide
WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy
Taste is subjective, we all have our individual preferences – therefore what irks me may not necessarily irk you. But What Tweaks My Tourb is all about the horological features and quirks that make me shudder. You may well totally disagree with my views in this series and I wholeheartedly welcome that too. In a marketplace … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Why asymmetrical running seconds drive me crazy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Point/Counterpoint: This Is Not The Year That Interest In Modern Watches Overtook Vintage
Warning: low-consequence, strong views ahead.
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Patek Philippe 1518 “Pink on Pink” Sells for US$9.57m
Widely regarded as the best “pink on pink” 1518 ever to emerge, the ref. 1518 once owned by Prince Mohammed Tewfik A. “T.A.” Toussoun of Egypt lived up to expectations and then some, having just sold at Sotheby’s in New York for US$9.57 million including fees. While almost 300 ref. 1518s were produced, only about fifth of them were in pink gold, with the majority in yellow gold. And just 14 are “pink on pink” with salmon-toned dials matched with a pink gold case. The 14th “pink on pink” ref. 1518 known, this was consigned by the heirs of the late prince, who passed away earlier this year aged 95. He was a first cousin to the the last King of Egypt, Farouk I. The prince pictured in the 1970s The prince was the original owner of this ref. 1518, which he bought on July 25, 1951 according to the certificate that accompanied the watch – which makes it the only “pink on pink” ref. 1518 with its original certificate. The watch remained in his possession since then, seemingly hardly worn, explaining its near-pristine condition. All those factors combined to create a tremendous interest from bidders, almost a dozen of them, all on the phones with Sotheby’s representatives. Bidding was easy and enthusiastic at the start, with one bidder making a million-dollar jump from two to three million, presumably in an attempt to deter the competition. It didn’t work and though there were just a handful of bidders past the five-million mark, the proceedings contin...
Time+Tide
Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand
How do you communicate true quality? It’s a question that many brands face as they try to capture the attention of collectors today. For big brands, the difficulty of such a task gets alleviated by the pull of history and immense marketing budgets. Yet, for a small brand, trying to make its mark in the … ContinuedThe post Minase Watches’ first American tour exposes the craftsmanship of the cult Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)
Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fred Savage & Andrew McUtchen face off in a 3-WATCH THROW DOWN
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…)
Three years ago, on a sultry November evening in Melbourne, we threw a launch party for our first Issue of NOW Magazine. It was in a world – if you can put your best movie-trailer voice on for me – that knew nothing of pandemics, or social distancing. My memories of the night are crowded. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The new issue of NOW Magazine is available now (which is fitting…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”
Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...
Time+Tide
My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021
Imagine walking into a building and coming face to face with some of the biggest brands and independent watchmakers in horology. Well, that’s exactly what I was lucky enough to do last weekend while attending WatchTime New York. It’s an annual event located within the vast Grand Ballroom of New York City’s Gotham Hall. It … ContinuedThe post My top five watches from WatchTime New York 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal
The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs. I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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