Two Broke Watch Snobs
8 Vintage-Style Chronographs We’ve Reviewed and Recommend
From standout designs to real-world wear, these vintage-style chronographs impressed us for more than just looks. Here’s what makes each one worth considering.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch
Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...
WatchAdvice
Hands-On With The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar: A Brilliant New Evolution
The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar brings one of the brand’s most celebrated complications into its modern integrated sports watch design for the very first time. I take a closer look at what makes this latest evolution of the Ingenieur such a compelling release. What We Love: Compact proportions for a sports watch with Kurt-Klaus’s perpetual calendar design Beautifully executed case and dial finishing Stainless steel makes it more wearable and accessible What We Don’t: No micro-adjustment system on the bracelet clasp Limited strap versatility due to the integrated bracelet design No precious metal option at launch for those wanting a more luxurious take Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Ingenieur has always been one of IWC’s most compelling designs, blending Gérald Genta’s signature aesthetic codes with the brand’s own sporty heritage and technical edge. I’ve been fortunate enough to review quite a few models from the Ingenieur range, which gives a good sense of how the overall collection sits across various sizes and complications. During Watches & Wonders 2025, arguably, one of the biggest shifts to the Ingenieur collection in modern times. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer presented the Ingenieur in a 41.6mm case, with none other than a perpetual calendar complication sitting inside. The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar is the first of its kind, released during Watches & Wonder...
Teddy Baldassarre
History of Hamilton Revealed
This seven part journey will take you deeper into the heritage of Hamilton that defined American watchmaking like never before.
Monochrome
First Look – The Tangens Komposition Automatic, an Accessible Automatic Sports Watch from Denmark
Danish microbrand Tangens was founded in 2023, and it did not take long for it to get going. A year later, it introduced the Komposition, a watch that quietly found its audience thanks to its neat, geometric design and a vintage sports watch aesthetic. The Komposition is an easy watch to wear, and so far, […]
Video
Why did it take so long for me to feature this Brand? New Jade Stone Dial Baltic Prismic
Monochrome
Introducing – Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc Enamel
Following the enamel-dialled Coquille d’œuf, Dutch brand Lebois & Co expands its Atelier sub-collection with the Heritage Chronograph Bleu-sur-Blanc. The concept remains: take the established Heritage Chronograph format and upgrade it through traditional dial-making techniques. The case is identical to previous Lebois & Co Atelier models. Made of stainless steel, it measures 39mm in diameter, […]
Worn & Wound
Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Watch, the Thundergraph Khumbu
Last week, Albishorn unveiled the latest in their ongoing series of “Imaginary Vintage” watches, the Thundergraph Kumbu. Founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet nearly two years ago, Albishorn is a high concept indie focused on a very specific strain of vintage watch inspiration. The watches that make up the Albishorn collection not only take their design cues from vintage watches, they are conceived as that never existed, but could have, and provide, as Chaumontet puts it, “a missing link” between the past and present. That centers each new watch on the idea of storytelling, and Albishorn has created elaborate imaginary backstories for each of their watches released to this point. (You can find our previous coverage of the brand here). The new watch from Albishorn, the Thundergraph Khumbu, is a new take on last year’s Thundergraph Himalaya, a chronograph conceived for alpine exploration. The idea here essentially was that on a climb, an alpinist would need easy legibility and the benefit of a rotating bezel to time ascent phases. The oversized crown and bezel, and monopusher chronograph execution, are also intended as design nods that would benefit a climber in difficult terrain (of course, these are straightforward tool watch design codes that could be applied to any number of situations – but that’s where the storytelling piece kicks in). For the new Thundergraph Khumbu, Albishorn has introduced a green dial, which the brand says is inspired by the landscapes ...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer
[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"] Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations. If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now. [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"] Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...
Monochrome
Introducing – Ivy League Style on the Wrist with the J. Press x Bamford London B80
Collaborations in watchmaking often result in timepieces that are pure fun, especially when they take a graphic and conceptual route. This is precisely the case with the new Bamford London B80 created with J. Press. Inspired by Ivy League culture and vintage collegiate aesthetics, this limited edition of 100 pieces rethinks one of the essential […]
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My Cartier Journey ENDS Here.
Monochrome
First Look – Seiko Prospex Revamps the Marinemaster, with the 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and JAMSTEC Limited HBF002
Prospex Marinemaster… When you hear these two words, you know things are about to become serious. The name Prospex is all about tool watches for Seiko, being the contraction of Professional Specifications. This is the line of watches where you’ll find instruments made for exploration and diving. Marinemaster is another name with great importance for […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Baltic Aquascaphe Review: The Microbrand's Cult-Classic Diver
A forerunner of both the rise of microbrands and the ongoing revival of France’s watchmaking industry here in the 21st Century, Baltic Watches emerged on the scene in 2017, originally as a Kickstarter project. Founder Étienne Malec discovered the inspiration for his watchmaking enterprise in his father’s watch collection and named the company in honor of his father’s Polish roots, after the sea off the country’s northern coast. The goal from the start, according to Malec, was to produce “timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices,” and most would agree that Baltic has delivered on this mission statement. Baltic watches are all assembled in a workshop in Besançon, France, the nation’s historical cradle of watchmaking, and evoke vintage timepieces like the ones Malec’s father collected and extensively catalogued in his journals. Here we will look at the Baltic Aquascaphe, one of their most recognizable watches. The first Baltic watches were the three-hand HMS 001 model, with a Japanese Miyota caliber, and the hand-wound Bicompax 001 chronograph, with the Chinese Seagull ST19 movement. While both these watches were successful, and put Baltic on its path to fan-favorite microbrand status, the small company has since become best known for its Aquascaphe series of dive watches. The Aquascaphe, which was launched in 2018, takes its design inspiration from early “skin diver” watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, with no small amount of influence from...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist?
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we address a listener’s question about price transparency in the vintage market. Does it exist, and if not, how should a new collector navigate these murky waters? Listen in as we take a long look at this interesting topic. This podcast player is blocked because […] Visit Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist? to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel
The 150 Heritage pocket watch, the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, and the skeletonized Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar might have stolen most of the limelight when Audemars Piguet presented many novelties in January. Nevertheless, the pieces I was probably most curious to see and try on were a series of three tool watches. Well, these are […] Visit Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel to read the full article.
Fratello
Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window
The guys at Serica take their vintage-inspired designs very seriously. The brand’s watches are all about the perfect proportions, high legibility, and great wearability. Up until now, a date window wasn’t part of that equation. However, as representatives of many brands tell us, some people won’t buy a watch unless it has a date window. […] Visit Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window to read the full article.
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If you remember seeing THIS on TV, you're officially OLD!! Merkur Jump Hour TV Test screen!
Worn & Wound
Why the Plotter Notebook Cover Is One of the Best Refillable Leather Notebooks
Look, I’m not going to say that I have all the answers here, people, but if there’s one thing I know how to spot, it’s a good notebook. While taxes may send me into a tailspin and I enter a fugue state any time that I’m forced to load the dishwasher, I can confidently say that if you want your notes written down and you want to carry around something that’s aesthetically pleasing…well, I’ll humbly say that I’m your guy for the right answer. Partially, my knowledge of notebooks is collateral damage because of my job – it doesn’t take a rocket scientist (or even someone who knows how to load a dishwasher) to see a job in pens has given me a deep understanding for what one writes with as much as what one writes on. To this effect, I have a general knowledge of the pros and cons of legal pads versus Moleskines, washi tape versus Scotch. But that stuff can be found fairly easily – Reddit, for better or worse, is a gold mine of information on stationery. But the other reason I find myself knowing about stationery is, quite simply, it’s a passion of mine. While some may find something akin to passion in their marriage or by binge watching Heated Rivalry, I’m much more likely to get butterflies ripping the cellophane off a new notebook versus ripping – you get the picture. This is all to say that, when I tell you Plotter makes some of the most beautiful notebook covers out there, you need to believe me. And when I tell you that pricetag flirting somewhe...
Teddy Baldassarre
Bangalore Watch Company Review: India's Horological Frontier
When surveying the horological landscape, most roads lead back to Switzerland, Germany, or Japan. But there is a burgeoning watchmaking scene emerging in India of all places and it certainly deserves our attention. Here we are going to adjust our loupe to the vibrant, burgeoning powerhouse that is Indian horology, specifically the microbrand Bangalore Watch Company. When you survey the broader horological landscape today, microbrands have become the absolute frontier of enthusiast watchmaking. These small independents are giving collectors access to serious mechanical specifications and originality without the traditional luxury markups. India is finally translating its massive cultural and technological footprint into this segment of watch collecting, and Bangalore Watch Company appears to be at the forefront of this transition. In this article, we’ll take a deep dive into what makes these watches so unique and what you need to know before you add one to your collection. [toc-section heading="Filling the Void After HMT"] To truly understand what you’re getting with Bangalore Watch Company, you have to understand the massive void it stepped into. For decades, the Indian watch market had been dominated by state-run enterprise Hindustan Machine Tools, better known as HMT (the undisputed king of South Asian watchmaking during the 1960s and 80s). Estimates suggest that HMT’s lifetime production exceeded a staggering one hundred million timepieces, generating an appetite ...
Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections
If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways. Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.” The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...
Teddy Baldassarre
12 Of Our Favorite Sector-Dial Watches, From Affordable to Luxury
As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now. [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak
Recorded shortly after Brandon’s return from Audemars Piguet’s launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand’s new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise. The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the ‘Fab Lab.’ Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Video
Alessandro Fanciulli Turned His Passion For Watch Collecting Into A Career | House of Craft
Worn & Wound
Opinion: I Stopped Buying Watches – The Grass Isn’t Greener
There is nothing more effective than the swap of a digit on the calendar to send the whole world into self-reflection mode. As we collectively adjust to a six that replaced a five, many of us have the best intention of making changes that stick around long enough to see that six turn into a seven. Personally, I find there is no better exercise to guide new resolutions than to take stock of the old ones. Non-watch related, dry January turned into dry 2025, and I’m down two links (normal people measure progress in pounds, but bracelet size has become my preferred watch nerd metric). I resumed progress on that half-finished MBA that’s been hanging over my head, and I spent more time playing board games with my kids than the year before. Watch-specific, after five years of constant buying and selling, I decided to go an entire year without purchasing any new watches. Even though it was a lofty goal and one that collectors seeking change often fantasize about without following through, I actually managed to spend 2025 without a substantial #NWA (new watch announcement) post on Instagram. In full transparency, I did pick up a couple of cheap vintage quartz pieces. But us watch enthusiasts have clever ways of rationalizing why certain purchases don’t count (I think we can all agree G-SHOCKs fall into this bucket), and I’m pretending like those pickups don’t exist. After all, neither were “new” and one has already found a new home. During this prolonged period of...
Time+Tide
Seiko’s SSB477, SSB479 & SSB481 offer vintage chronograph style for under US$500
We're used to seeing plenty of microbrand mechaquartz chronographs, but here's what it looks like when Seiko cases its own movements.The post Seiko’s SSB477, SSB479 & SSB481 offer vintage chronograph style for under US$500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame
Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 9 Most Accurate Watches for the Precision-Obsessed
Fundamentally, mechanical and quartz movements do the same thing: they both tell thetime. But the ways in which they both do it couldn’t be more different. Not to get into acomparison guide here, but in a nutshell: a mechanical watch is powered by a mainspringthat’s either wound by hand or automatically through wrist movement. Energy is releasedthrough a complex system of gears, an escapement, and a balance wheel that beats steadily back and forth. There’s no battery, just centuries-old engineering refined to an art form. These watches aren’t the most accurate, but accuracy isn’t really the point. Craftsmanship, tradition, and the emotional connection are. Quartz watches, on the other hand, are powered by a battery and use an electrical current to make a quartz crystal vibrate at 32,768 times per second. That vibration is incredibly stable, which is why quartz watches are vastly more accurate and require far less maintenance. They’re practical, reliable, and often more durable for everyday use, as well as being notably more affordable. Neither system is inherently “better,” though. Mechanical watches speak to passion and heritage, while quartz prioritizes precision and convenience. Ultimately, it’s less about the movement inside and more about what you want your watch to represent on your wrist. [toc-section heading="Next-Level Accuracy"] Some watches measure accuracy in seconds per day, others by seconds per month. Butthere also exists a small group of t...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Pair of Vintage Omegas, an Accutron with a Tuning Fork Movement, and More
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Constellation Here is a really nice and all original vintage Omega Constellation to start us off this week. This is a later iteration of the Constellation, which despite not being the classic 1950s version is still quite a watch. The watch was clearly worn and loved, but not abused. The C-shaped steel case has a nice patina but looks to be unpolished. The silver dial is clean, with stick markers and delicate stick hands. The crystal shows some crazing and/or scratches from use, but the seller states it’s original. Easily replaced or you can leave it be to maintain originality. But under that crystal the dial looks fantastic. Original signed crown and brick style steel bracelet complete the watch. No movement pictures but the seller states it runs well. Fantastic, all original vintage Omega Constellation in honest condition. View auction here Wittnauer Diver Next up is a super chunky vintage 1970s Wittnauer diver with a brilliant blue dial. The 38mm steel case has that classic 70s block-o-steel style and is unpolished with sharp edges. The electric blue dial has a lighter blue outer minute track with a day/date window at 3 o’clock and steel markers. The dial looks t...
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