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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks Aug 26, 2020

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year

As a distillation of what a Japanese firm does best, the Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers a compelling line of thought – if you’re looking for a great watch on the more affordable side of things, do you pursue the usual mechanical suspects or high-end quartz? With a case based on the iconic 44GS design, an … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 offers classic looks and stone cold killer accuracy of +/- 10 seconds a year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 24, 2020

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S

Having introduced its first sports watch last year – a no-expense-spared world time-tourbillon – Greubel Forsey has followed up with a simpler model that is still constructed to the same high level of fit and finish, the Balancier S. The Balancier S channels the look and feel of the its bigger brother, but with a time-only movement in a thinner case as well as a more affordable price, relatively speaking. Initial thoughts Though I have only seen Balancier S in photos, I am certain it has the look and feel of the GMT Sport – that’s the very point of it. So the Balancier S is large watch that is lighter than it looks, and one that sits well on the wrist because of the arched case back. The aesthetic is a techno-mechanical variation of Greubel Forsey’s usual aesthetic that works well for a sports watch, though it cannot be described as beautiful. And as with all Greubel Forsey watches, fit and finish is exemplary, especially for a sports watch. Although the movement is simpler than in the GMT – most of the back is covered by finely-finished, large bridges – it still has the details typical of Greubel Forsey, including jewels in chatons and expertly polished hands. But all of that comes at a price, and just over US$200,000, this is a very expensive sports watch. All about balance According to Greubel Forsey cofounder Stephen Forsey, the starting point for the Balancier S was to “deploy [Greubel Forsey’s] in-house balance wheel at a 30 degree incline”. The r...

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during Aug 21, 2020

Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport

Tennis players are well known for being ambassadors of various watch brands. Serena Williams has recently been spotted playing with her Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph during matches, Roger Federer with his Rolex Sky-Dweller (when his match is over), as well as Rafael Nadal with his RM 27­-03 Manual Winding Tourbillon Rafael Nadal Edition. Gael … ContinuedThe post Gael Monfils just smashed the sh*t out of a $500k USD Greubel Forsey GMT Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Aug 20, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V

Introduced five decades ago, the Seiko 5 is much loved for its affordability and infinite variety. Last year Seiko gave the Seiko 5 Sports a complete revamp, giving it a diver “lite” look. Now the redesigned watch is the base for the Seiko 5 Sports x Street Fighter V, a limited-edition collection that’s a tribute to the iconic one-on-one fighting video game developed by Japanese game maker Capcom. Each of the six watches in the line up is inspired by character from Street Fighter, one of the bestselling games in history, with some 45 million units sold to date and a major part of growing up in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Essentially variants of the same watch with different dials and bezels, the Street Fighter editions have the same case as the regular production model, which means 42.5 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick, and a 100 m depth rating. While it sounds large, the watch is more wearable that the diameter suggests thanks to the short lug-to-lug span at 46 mm. Also identical is the 4R36 movement and lack of a screw-in crown, which feels counterintuitive on a sports watch, though strictly speaking there is no practical difference between the two in everyday use. However, the similarities stop there. The new limited editions escalate the fun factor with creative dial designs and bright colours. But the price has also increased steeply – the Street Fighter editions cost almost twice as much as the standard model – no doubt due to the royalties due to the game’s d...

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nature Aug 14, 2020

5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for)

Is your feed currently flooded with the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” Exhibition in New York City? There’s a reason for that. Taking place Downtown in the SoHo area, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, this event has completely raised the bar for watch pop-ups. As thoughtful in design as the watches themselves, the exhibition … ContinuedThe post 5 amazing watches showing at the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition in New York City (including the one I’d give an organ for) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ Aug 14, 2020

VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet

Editor’s note: In preparation for an epic upcoming article that tracks a year on the wrist with the Rolex Root Beer, we thought we’d revisit this video that comprehensively positions it among its 2018 crop of sports watches. Watch it for side by side comparisons with the Full Everose version and the Pepsi, which largely hogged the limelight in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Revisiting the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Root Beer’ in Everose Rolesor with Oyster Bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Smartwatches set for 10% decline in 2020, while wearables power on in the pandemic, up 137% Time+Tide
Aug 13, 2020

NEWS: Smartwatches set for 10% decline in 2020, while wearables power on in the pandemic, up 137%

We recently reported that the Apple watch has gone from strength to strength in the last reporting period, and now outsells the entire Swiss watch industry to the tune of 10 million watches. Smartwatches, as a category however, are not exactly sweeping all before them in 2020. While wearables have seen significant growth over the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Smartwatches set for 10% decline in 2020, while wearables power on in the pandemic, up 137% appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Nomos Orion Hand-Wind SJX Watches
Seiko Aug 13, 2020

Up Close: Nomos Orion Hand-Wind

Deciding on an entry-level watch is exciting, but also confusing, especially for a first-time buyer. It’s often a problem of too many choices. Competition is strong in the segment, with the usual suspects like Seiko and Nomos, but also newly-established “micro brands” all competing in the same space. One of the standouts in terms of value, however, is the Nomos Orion, which combines aesthetics and functionality in a clean, approachable package. Old school of design The simplicity of its design means the Orion has aged surprisingly well.  It doesn’t look it, but the Orion is almost 30 years old – Nomos introduced the model in 1992, two years after the brand was established. The Orion still looks modern today – evidence of its durable design. The Orion is refreshing in its simplicity, instant legibility, and charming typography, all accented by subtle but quirky details like the minute track. The success of the design can be attributed to its philosophical inspiration, Deutscher Werkbund. Although Nomos watches are often described as being Bauhaus-inspired, they are actually designed according to the philosophy of the Deutscher Werkbund. A community founded in 1907, Deutscher Werkbund’s goal was to revolutionise industry and manufacturing in Germany by elevating the artistic and practical elements in products to make the easier to mass produce. Strongly influential in early 20th century industrial design, the movement later gave birth to Bauhaus, the better-...

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review Aug 13, 2020

Breitling Navitimer 35 hands-on Review

Since its introduction to market in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer has been a hallmark of not only Breitling as a brand, but the luxury watch industry at large. When one thinks of pilots watches, the Breitling Navitimer is principal amongst those thoughts. Traditionally the Navitimer is a large, bold timepiece, designed for not only legibility but practicality.  It is the principal purpose of the Navitimer that it be practical in almost any aviation endeavour. To achieve its purpose, Breitling equipped the Navitimer with its signature slide rule bezel. The slide rule bezel is the watches bi-directional rotating bezel, traditionally adorned with a number of mathematical conversion scales which, when used in conjunction with the watches other signature function, a chronograph, is able to decipher a variety of equations useful to Pilots prior to electronic monitoring devices becoming commonplace in cockpits.  So when Breitling launched the paired down Navitimer 35 as part of their ground-breaking digital launch earlier in 2020, it would be fair to say that the new chronograph-less timepiece left me with some reservations. Firstly, the elephant in the room, this is the first ever 35mm mechanical Navitimer that the brand has launched. It shows the brands commitment to trimming the diameter of its timepieces, and its push into smaller wristed markets. This may seem like a good thing in a vacuum, however, instead of leaning into the size down, Breitling market the Navitimer 35 a...

A barn find to give you hope – the story of a very special NOS vintage Gruen Ocean Chief Time+Tide
Aug 12, 2020

A barn find to give you hope – the story of a very special NOS vintage Gruen Ocean Chief

Editor’s note: This week, Eric Ku, vintage watch dealer and friend of Time+Tide, posted about five years having passed since the remarkable watch barn find story involving a LeCoultre Deep Sea Alarm. A man by the name of Zach Norris came across an interesting-looking watch at a local Goodwill store, featuring a price tag of … ContinuedThe post A barn find to give you hope – the story of a very special NOS vintage Gruen Ocean Chief appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition is a circle of blacktop for your wrist Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Aug 11, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition is a circle of blacktop for your wrist

This year, TAG Heuer are celebrating more than a decade and a half of timing partnership with the celebrated NTT IndyCar Series, and are releasing a new special edition watch to mark the occasion. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition was designed in close collaboration with the IndyCar team, and has a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Indy 500 Special Edition is a circle of blacktop for your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm Aug 11, 2020

Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur 42 mm

One of the longest-lived models in the Ulysse Nardin line up, the Marine is modelled on vintage marine chronometers, the precision clocks in gimballed boxes found on ships of old. Originally introduced in 1996 as the Marine Chronometer 1846, the watch was one of the brand’s signature models during the tenure of former owner Rolf Schnyder, a larger than life entrepreneur who made Ulysse Nardin (UN) a presence in contemporary watchmaking. Several generations later, the design is now found on an entry-level model that is surprisingly accomplished despite being quite affordable, the Marine Torpilleur 42 mm. (NB: The version pictured here is in rose gold and naturally costs more; the steel model is priced under US$7,000.) Initial thoughts The Marine Torpilleur is an interesting proposition because it’s a fairly thin sports, or at least sporty, watch that has an obviously classical design that still manages to be functional. It manages that because the design is based the marine chronometer, a classical yet functional instrument. And the Marine Torpilleur is powered by the excellent, in-house UN-118 movement, while being priced at a little under US$7,000 in steel. That sets it apart from most watches in the same price segment, because the Marine Torpilleur has a competent dial and case, but an excellent movement. So from a technical perspective, it is a strong value-buy. The watch is largish but slim, with a dial that’s essentially a replica of a marine chronometer di...

Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models Time+Tide
Seiko answer people’s prayers Aug 9, 2020

Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models

Say what you will, but there are few cooler mods you can make to a stainless steel sports watch than removing its bezel … just ask Marlon Brando. It’s obviously a sentiment that Seiko agrees with, as 2020 has seen them release no fewer than 11 new iterations of its iconic 5 Sports model without … ContinuedThe post Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out … Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2020

Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out …

Watchmaker Anicorn has teamed up with the most important space exploration outfit on the planet(s), NASA, to create a brand new watch that aims to celebrate the Perseverance Rover touching down in Jezero Crater on Mars. And the results? Ladies and gentleman, we bring you the most bizarre watch of 2020. Called the Mars Time, … ContinuedThe post Anicorn and NASA must have created the Mars Time when they were seriously spaced out … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2020

The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches

Homage watches within the enthusiast community can be quite a contentious topic at times. Are they rip-offs? Cash cows? Sell-outs? Unoriginal? The reality is opinions can vary, but the true metric or equaliser of any watch to an extent is how they perform on the grey or second-hand market. While the objective of most homage … ContinuedThe post The curious case of the Gevril Tribeca: 5 reasons why it is the king of homage watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Introduces the Diver 18.01 H41 SJX Watches
Ming Aug 7, 2020

Ming Introduces the Diver 18.01 H41

Having already developed a dive watch last year – the small batch of prototypes were then sold – Ming refined the original design to create its first regular-production dive watch, the 18.01 H41. Rated to 1,000 m, or 3,280 ft, the 18.01 H41 retains the look of the prototype diver, and is in the typical Ming style, with clean lines and geometric shapes. The diver is offered in two case styles: natural-finish or DLC-coated titanium. The former is available with either a rubber strap or metal bracelet, while the DLC-coated version is only available on a rubber strap. Notably, the titanium bracelet can be retrofitted to any Ming watch to date, and is available separately. Initial thoughts While the 18.01 is a typical dive watch in that it has a rotating bezel, its look diverges from the pool (no pun intended), thanks to Ming’s easily identifiable and consistent styling cues. It manages to preserve the brand’s aesthetics while doing what a dive watch should do, and then some. At 40 mm wide, the 18.01 is the same size as the prototype and the largest Ming watch to date – the average is 38 mm -, no doubt partly in response to customer demand for a larger watch. That said, the brand managed to slim down the case to 12.9 mm, unusually svelte proportions for a watch with 1,000 m water resistance. The 18.01 is priced at about US$3,000. Competition is strong in that segment of dive watches, especially since the 18.01 is more expensive than many ETA-powered dive watches, l...

Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review Aug 6, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X Hands-on Review

Innovation is a word that is symbolic of the famous Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin. The brand has created some fantastic movements as well as designs that defy belief. A true testament to this is Ulysse Nardin’s Skeleton X model. Released back in 2019, the Skeleton X model belongs to Ulysse Nardin’s Executive collection. A collection which has been disrupting the watchmaking industry, with timepieces inspired by the sea.  The Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X comes in Titanium, Titanium Black, Rose Gold, and Carbonium case design, with all of them having the same skeleton dial design and movement. It does also come in two sizes; a 42mm and 43mm case size.  Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X – 42mm Case We have our hands on the 42mm Skeleton X in titanium black DLC. Ulysse Nardin has drawn inspiration from the letter X for the design of the skeleton dial. As the brand put it themselves “more than a means, exploring has become Ulysse Nardin’s motivation. The X-factor is the answer: X like an adventure, X like our deepest desires, X for the unknown, X for what’s forbidden, bold and exciting.” The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape.  The hour indices at 1 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock are partially connected to form the “X” shape The open-worked dial on the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton X takes skeletonisation to new heights. Only the bare necessities are left on the moveme...

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 Time+Tide
Seiko SPB151J Aug 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020

Last year, Seiko fans around the world had a collective skipping of heartbeats when the Japanese firm announced the release of the SLA033. This was no normal Seiko dive watch. As its full name suggests, the Seiko Diver’s Re-Creation Limited Edition SLA033, is a watch inspired by one of the most iconic Seiko dive watches … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB151J and Seiko SPB153J are modern Apocalypse Now reissues, and they’re ready for 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 watches that look good on any strap Time+Tide
Rolex you’re always trying Aug 1, 2020

5 watches that look good on any strap

It’s no secret that watches are expensive items. Whether it’s a $100 quartz Seiko or a $10,000 Rolex, you’re always trying to get the most for your money. By far the easiest way to eke out some extra value is to get a good collection of straps, so you can easily match your watch to … ContinuedThe post 5 watches that look good on any strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.