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12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Dec 25, 2024

12 Technical Achievements in Watchmaking from 2024

The word I keep reading to describe the watch industry in 2024 is “conservative.” There is certainly a case to be made for that view (and my colleague Bilal Khan does so quite eloquently in yesterday’s article), but there is also, I feel, ample evidence of the industry’s ongoing (and, to my mind, essential) devotion to doing new things on the technical side. In this day and age, with the watch business so diversified, so international, and so independent of one another in their schedule of releasing new products (the Spring windfall that is Watches & Wonders Geneva notwithstanding), it can be easy to overlook these innovations when you’re trying to tie up the watchmaking year in a neat bow. Of course, every watch brand has its own approach. Sometimes it’s about setting records (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget); sometimes it's about elevating a brand’s repertoire to the next tier of complexity (Breitling, TAG Heuer); often, it’s just about taking a fresh approach, or adding a clever twist, to existing complications (Nomos, Swatch). For those who may have missed them or even forgotten about them, here are the technical innovations in the horological world — major and minor — that I found worthy of attention in 2024. Ball Model M Roadmaster A With the Roadmaster M Model A, Ball Watch introduces a mechanical alarm function to its predominantly rugged, tool-oriented lineup for the first time. But it’s not just any mechanical alarm function but an “Alarm-Matic...

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm Worn & Wound
Tudor Dec 24, 2024

My Year in Watches: Community as the Center of Enthusiasm

It’s a sneaky secret, but the truth is everyone in the watch world occasionally gets a little tired of watches. Okay, I can’t speak for everyone, and ‘tired’ might be the wrong word, but anyone who has ever worked in an enthusiast field would probably tell you that balancing your own enthusiasm with a professional life can be a tricky thing. Enthusiasm itself is not a boundless resource, and sometimes you can find yourself in need of a cool-down period (something Nathan Schultz described beautifully here). Coming into 2024, I had no idea this year would be one of those cool-down periods (it can be hard to notice one while it’s happening) but looking back at the last twelve months, it’s hard to deny the characterization. It’s not that I love watches any less than I did last year, it’s just that, as I wade deeper into the watch universe, my own collecting has taken a backseat. Going into 2023, I made a conscious decision I wouldn’t buy any watches. Instead, I would save up and make one big purchase at the end of the year. Then I got to March, bought a G-Shock, and opened the floodgates. So when Zach asked me to put a New Year’s Resolution on paper back in January of this year, I went the other way, stating with intention that this would be a buying year and that I would likely end the year with a Tudor, a NOMOS, or both. Instead, I’m ending the 2024 calendar year having bought just three watches, none of which cost more than $110 dollars. I’ve been wh...

Hands-On: D__b__ Journey Hugger 30L Backpack Worn & Wound
Dec 24, 2024

Hands-On: D__b__ Journey Hugger 30L Backpack

For those unfortunate souls who have found their way into my gear bins, you know that I am a gearhead through and through, able to easily outfit a family of five for a week-long camping trip in just about any weather condition. One particular area of weakness for me is in the bag category. Tote bags, sling bags, fanny packs, large backpacking packs, duffles, I believe they all serve their purpose and that you should have one for every scenario. Finding the perfect bag though can be an impossible task leading you to spend hours researching boutique brands only to be disappointed in the one lacking feature you need, accompanied by a significantly lighter pocketbook. So, when I spotted a dirty worn-in backpack with a unique silhouette gliding through a sporting goods store in Denmark, the hunt was on.  It didn’t take long as a few quick turns had me standing in front of an entire wall display holding an array of different designs from the new-to-me brand D__b__. Now, it was the early days of my trip and I did not have a lot of room in my luggage to spare, so I snapped a few pictures, residing myself doing downtime research into this exciting company. Despite its large global presence, D_B_ Journey does not seem to have made the push into the States, finding a small home inside of a select number of scattered retailers. This may be in part due to the crowded and hyper-competitive market, or potentially due to the recent forced rebranding stemming from marketing problems wit...

The Worn & Wound+ Community Picks their Favorite Watches of 2024 Worn & Wound
Tudor stan it pains me Dec 24, 2024

The Worn & Wound+ Community Picks their Favorite Watches of 2024

It’s been a great year over on Worn & Wound+, our dedicated Slack channel for Worn & Wound readers, and watch and gear enthusiasts of all kinds. At the moment, we have over 1,000 people from all over the world in our Slack channel talking about watches and many, many other topics. There are dedicated channels to discuss EDC and gear, movies and television, photography, and more. There’s a marketplace channel where members can safely buy and sell watches, and there are channels where members can arrange local in-person or virtual watch meetups. It’s also, of course, a great place get insider info on deals from the Windup Watch Shop – you never know what watches might turn up for sale in the Slack channel before they’re made available anywhere else.  All that said, it’s the great watch discussions that are really at the heart of Worn & Wound+, so as the year draws to a close, we thought we’d ask members of the Worn & Wound+ community to tell us about some of their favorite new releases of the year. And if you’re still not signed up for Worn & Wound+, be sure to hit this link and check it out. It’s completely free, and we’d love to see you join the community.  Andrew Iveagh – Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” As a long time Tudor stan, it pains me to say my favorite of 2024 was the Omega Speedmaster FOIS. Between the reduced size, the blue gray dial, and the tan/fauxtina lume, it’s a vintage inspired lover’s dream. I’m usually a dive/g...

The Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Porter Is A Watch That Will Turn Heads WatchAdvice
Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Dec 23, 2024

The Zenith PILOT Big Date Flyback Porter Is A Watch That Will Turn Heads

Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique.  Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session Fratello
Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Dec 23, 2024

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session

Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.

Best of 2024: Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Complications

Perhaps echoing the paucity of highlights in indie watchmaking, the best complications of 2024 were not numerous, but those that stood out were outstanding. Vacheron Constantin, for instance, unveiled the most complicated watch ever, while Bovet solved the longstanding problem of summer time across continents in an enormous (and enormously expensive) wristwatch. Here’s the team’s take on the best complications of the year. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Handwerkskunst – Brandon Moore The iconic Datograph turned 25 this year, and collectors were treated to three different limited edition variants to mark the occasion. We were first introduced to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” and the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary at Watches & Wonders, but Lange was arguably saving the best for last: the first Datograph to receive the brand’s artisanal Handwerkskunst treatment. Featuring a hand-engraved tremblage dial and limited to just 25 pieces, the Datograph Handwerkskunst is a fitting way to celebrate a quarter-century of being best-in-class. While not particularly creative, this very-limited edition captures both the magic of Lange and its Datograph perfectly. Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 – SJX The introduction to our story on the watch sums it up best: “The Bovet Récital 28 Prowess 1 is an ingenious solution to an age-old problem: accounting for daylight saving time (also known as summer time) in a multi-timezone wristwatch… the solution is e...

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking continued its hot streak in 2024, with interest and demand for this niche segment holding up better amidst an industry-wide slowdown. But surprisingly – or unsurprisingly depending on how you look at it – there were relatively few outstanding new creations from the indies. A handful, however, did stand out. We look at the team’s highlights of the year, which range from Konstantin Chaykin’s thinnest-watch-ever to the debut by Swiss-based Japanese watchmaker Takahiro Aigaki. Aigaki Direct-Impulse Tourbillon – Brandon Moore I still remember the moment I stumbled across Takahiko Aigaki’s Instagram profile earlier this year, because the close-up image of the tourbillon cage made me do a double take. Sure, it was well finished, but in 2024 good finishing no longer provides the competitive advantage it once did; the top end of the market is just too competitive. No, what struck me was the unusual double direct-impulse escapement. When the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon was finally revealed, it was worth the wait. While arguably a bit plain on the outside, the movement exhibits a degree of grace and technicality that is still quite rare. The watch is truly a sleeper, in the sense that the case and dial reveal little of the horological magic within. Daniel Roth Tourbillon – Brandon Moore It’s counterintuitive to be writing about the launch of the Daniel Roth brand in 2024, considering the man himself was one of the seminal independent watchmakers ...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster!

Well, it’s finally arrived, the end of 2024. Typically, around this time we put together an annual wrap, but the brands had other plans. You see, they kept releasing watches. So, for episode 96 of A Week in Watches, we’re still covering new releases, with a particular focus on that last-minute Speedmaster drop, and, boy, do we have some thoughts on that one. This episode was brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. When the winter break is behind you, and you’ve returned the awkward sweaters and novelty socks, head on over to the shop and get yourself something you really want. Perhaps some straps, a utility knife, or even a watch. And, if you happen to be near NYC, you can set up a time to come to the new showroom and pick something out in person by following this link. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 96: It’s a Bird, It’s a Plane, It’s a Speedmaster! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black Fratello
Dec 22, 2024

Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black

Excelsior Park re-entered the market with a boom in 2021. The brand released many models, created limited editions and one-offs, and then retreated until this year. This past summer, after a few years of hibernation, EP returned with a time-only model, the 884-SI. The watch received positive reviews for its appearance and competitive price. Now […] Visit Hands-On With The New Excelsior Park Bi Compax Black to read the full article.

Diving with the Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Dec 22, 2024

Diving with the Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer

When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Yema Dec 21, 2024

Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition

Yema does not shy away from more creative uses of materials and colors. The French brand’s latest release proves this point brilliantly. You would be forgiven for thinking this was a forged carbon watch at first sight. You would be wrong, however. The new Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition is made of hand-finished black […] Visit Hands-On With The New Yema Wristmaster Slim CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.