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Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review Teddy Baldassarre
Daniel Roth Jan 29, 2025

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review

Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...

Visiting American Independent Keaton Myrick SJX Watches
Rolex working Jan 17, 2025

Visiting American Independent Keaton Myrick

The Oregon High Desert might seem like a strange place to find a watchmaker, but if you happen to stop in Bend, the region’s largest city with about 100,000 residents, you’ll have a chance of running into Keaton Myrick.  Inspired by the likes of George Daniels and Philippe Dufour, Mr Myrick produces largely handmade watches in small numbers for connoisseurs of independent watchmaking. Setting up shop this far from the robust supplier networks of Switzerland has proven challenging, but Mr Myrick’s story of overcoming these headwinds reveals a degree of resilience and independence that embodies the spirit of the American West. We’ve been following Mr Myrick’s career for more than a decade, profiling him in 2013 after he debuted his first watch at Baselworld 2012. Now delivering the final pieces of his 1 of 30 series, Mr Myrick has moved into a new, larger workshop and evolved many of his manufacturing processes, so we thought it was worth a visit to see what’s in store for the future of watchmaking in the Pacific Northwest. A later example from the ‘1 in 30’ series. Origins As you might have guessed, Bend, Oregon is not a hotbed for watchmaking. In Mr Myrick’s case, pursuing a career in watchmaking meant relocating across the country to study at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT) in Pennsylvania, where he became WOSTEP-certified and began his stint at Rolex, working in after-sales service and restoration. The founder at his bench. But it was not long before ...

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 25, 2024

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch

Pop culture icons are increasingly in vogue and luxury watch brands have been surfing the wave of comic or cartoon-themed timepieces. Raymond Weil is the latest brand to join this trend with a limited edition inspired by Largo Winch, the gentleman-adventurer created by Belgian cartoonist Philippe Francq. Yet instead of featuring the iconic character on a dial […]

Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch Fratello
Raymond Weil Oct 15, 2024

Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch

Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels […] Visit Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jul 9, 2024

[VIDEO] What It Takes To Be Made In Glashütte with Bruno Söhnle

From hand-milling plates to carefully bluing screws, the team at  Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A takes the standard and seal of ‘Made in Glashütte’ very personally. Since 2000, the brand has become the most accessible entry point for watch enthusiasts to step into the world of traditional Glashütte watchmaking. For the uninitiated, the town of Glashütte in Saxony, Germany has been the undisputed heart of prestigious German watchmaking for almost two centuries. With a 60+ year family legacy intertwined with the history of this town, the basic idea behind the Bruno Söhnle brand is to manufacture watches that live up to the all-important ‘Made in Glashütte’ concept and title-but in a way that also makes them affordable for everyone. ‘Made in Glashütte’ can best be compared to champagne. Like champagne, it has regulations that it can only be produced in a specific region. We have the same thing here in Glashütte. We had the unique opportunity of going behind-the-scenes at the manufacture in Glashütte, with the Bruno Söhnle team, to see exactly what it takes to be ‘Made in Glashütte.’ Join us as we interview the brand’s leadership, spend time with their watchmakers, and learn about the standards that define Glashütte-based quality across automatic, hand-wound, and even quartz movements. In fact, Bruno Söhnle Glashütte S/A is the only watch brand around to create quartz movements bearing the ‘Made in Glashütte’ moniker. In this exclusive be...

Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to Time+Tide
May 10, 2024

Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to

For those who never worked up the VIP lists of Tiffany or Patek, Loupe This is set to list the ultimate hype watch: a Tiffany blue Nautilus.The post Loupe This is set to auction off the ultimate hypebeast Tiffany Blue Nautilus 5711 – here’s why that’s worth paying attention to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

First Look – The Epitome of Discreet Luxury, The new Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Epitome of Discreet Luxury, The new Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel

A compact, elegant, and sublimely discreet L.U.C Qualité Fleurier heralds two firsts for Chopard. It is the first watch to receive the coveted seal since Chopard became the sole guardian of the Qualité Fleurier Foundation in 2022, and it is also the first watch of this elite family to be made in Lucent Steel. The […]

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]

Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Mar 22, 2024

Introducing – The Appealing Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Gets a Stylish Grey Option

First released in 2019, the Heritage BiCompax Annual quickly became a best-selling watch for Carl F. Bucherer. Merging retro design elements with modern complications and practicality, it is one of the very few timepieces on the market to combine a chronograph and an annual calendar – something you’d imagine only Patek is capable of manufacturing… […]

Introducing – Genus Goes Sleeker and Simpler, With the Still Singular GNS2 Watch Monochrome
Mar 12, 2024

Introducing – Genus Goes Sleeker and Simpler, With the Still Singular GNS2 Watch

Genus, an independent brand hailing from Geneva, is the brainchild of Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières. In 2007, Sébastien Billières co-created GMTI, a company specialising in manufacturing of ‘Geneva Seal’ movements for brands, and gained broader recognition in 2019 with the highly acclaimed Genus GNS1, featuring an exotic time display. Fast forward five years, and […]

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial

Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...

Introducing – Hermès Artistically Interprets the Seasons with the Slim d’Hermès Le Sacre des Saisons Monochrome
Hermes Feb 7, 2024

Introducing – Hermès Artistically Interprets the Seasons with the Slim d’Hermès Le Sacre des Saisons

Regarded as one of the most refined luxury retailers, Hermès is renowned for its exquisite artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair. The Maison’s unique style, safeguarded by current creative director Philippe Delhotal, is often transversal, taking design cues from one product line and incorporating them into another. Recently, Hermès watchmaking sector has turned to the […]

Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch Fratello
Audemars Piguet Watch Artisans de Genève Jan 27, 2024

Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch

Artisans de Genève is not the only company creating personal interpretations of grail watches from Rolex and Patek. Still, I feel that ADG deeply respects the clients’ base models while meticulously improving details. Adding interest and bespoke detailing to an already accomplished design is a delicate subject, but to me, Artisans de Genève is on […] Visit Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch to read the full article.