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Plan-les-Ouates

Geneva industrial suburb; modern manufactures of Patek Philippe (1996), Vacheron Constantin (2005), Piaget (2001), Rolex case-making.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

Fresh off the success of last year’s unexpected Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”, Cartier continues with the theme but now with an newly developed open-worked movement. Making its debut in three variants, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor underscore Cartier’s commitment to the Santos-Dumont, the model that’s truest to the 1904 watch designed for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont. Equipped with the cal. 9629 MC that has a plane-shaped rotor, the three references include a pair of regular production models in steel and rose gold, along with a 150-piece limited edition in a striking combination of yellow gold and blue lacquer. Initial Thoughts Cartier been using lacquer to decorate its jewellery, watches, and accessories almost since its founding in 1847. While a first for the brand in the modern-day – and also unique amongst watchmakers – last year’s lacquered Santos-Dumont was modelled on a similar 1920s watch, so it makes sense for the Parisian jeweller to continue with the theme. In this context, the highlight of the Santos-Dumont Skeleton collection is undoubtedly the yellow gold model with navy-blue lacquer inlays. Not only is the lacquer applied to the case and bezel as was the case with last year’s model, but it is applied to the movement bridges. The combination of lacquer, skeleton movement, and a whimsical plane-shaped rotor instantly sets it apart from other Cartier watches, yet it is still easily recognisable as a Cartier creation. This watch ce...

Cartier’s new Privé Tank Normale collection honours the OG Time+Tide
Cartier s new Privé Tank Mar 27, 2023

Cartier’s new Privé Tank Normale collection honours the OG

The Cartier Tank Normale is the original 1917 Tank design from Louis Cartier This is the 7th entry into the rare Privé collection, succeeding the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, Cloche and Tank Chinoise Offered in standard and skeleton forms, with the standard models also available on case-matching precious metal bracelets – all of … ContinuedThe post Cartier’s new Privé Tank Normale collection honours the OG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur Time+Tide
IWC s Ingenieur While IWC Mar 25, 2023

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur

While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders WatchAdvice
Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Mar 22, 2023

Breitling Have Beefed Up Their Top Time Line Just Ahead Of Watches & Wonders

Last month, Breitling held a very special event for a handful of watch enthusiasts, and Watch Advice was there to get a great hands on experience with the new Top Time line up, and see how this collection with the new B01 movements and new Thunderbird model felt in person, and most importantly, how they sat on the wrist! With less than a week to go until the watch world descends on Geneva, Breitling have dropped a revised line up of their Top Time collection, with new beefed up specs and adding a new model to the muscle car line up – the Ford Thunderbird, to sit alongside the Mustang, Cobra and Corvette. Watch Advice, along with with a handful of passionate collectors had the pleasure of getting under the hood of the new models (yes there will be many car references in this article, so brace yourself!), and testing them out in person. The Breitling Top Time Collection – Left to Right: Ford Thunderbird, Chevrolet Corvette, Ford Mustang & Shelby Cobra “The Top Time represented a break from traditional watch design for a generation that was breaking with convention in every way… We are going after that sense of freedom and fun with the 1960s-inspired Top Time Classic Cars collection”Georges Kern – Breitling ceo The Top Time collection was released in 2021 with three models – the Mustang, Corvette and Cobra. This year, Breitling have introduced the Ford Thunderbird to the collection, and alongside this, dropped a new engine into them with the new in house calibre...

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors Worn & Wound
Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Mar 21, 2023

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors

Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe Mar 17, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes

TGIF! But before we all get some must needed R&R; this weekend, especially with Watches & Wonders kicking off next week, there have been some interesting watch releases this week ahead of the biggest watch fair in the world – and from three independents no less! Let’s jump right into it. H. Moser & Cie … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Moser debuts new size, Czapek goes titanium, VIEREN brings Studio 54 vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Form follows function in the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Time+Tide
Mar 3, 2023

HANDS-ON: Form follows function in the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik

Minimalism can often be used as an excuse by cheap watch brands to get away with lazy design, but the discerning eye will always be able to tell when a corner is being cut. Bauhaus is one of the arts of using minimalism to its maximum effectiveness, where design and function both inform each other … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Form follows function in the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It (The Day Before It Was Discontinued): Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 With White Dial Reference 114300 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 Mar 2, 2023

Why I Bought It (The Day Before It Was Discontinued): Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 With White Dial Reference 114300 – Reprise

After years of consideration, Bhanu Chopra took the plunge and bought both a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 mm and a Submariner Reference 114060. And less than 24 hours after finally taking ownership of them, Rolex discontinued both watches! Here he shares the story of how it all went down. Spoiler alert: he couldn't be happier!

Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 28, 2023

Circula Introduces a GMT into their AquaSport Diver Collection

The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...

10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob Time+Tide
Feb 25, 2023

10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob

Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming … ContinuedThe post 10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Love At First Sight with the Lorca Model No.1 GMT Worn & Wound
Casio nally pause Feb 24, 2023

Hands-On: Love At First Sight with the Lorca Model No.1 GMT

As a self-proclaimed watch guy, I’ve developed a natural habit for watch spotting in the wild. It doesn’t matter if I’m in the midst of a routine trip to my local cafe or seated in my designated row as I observe the rest of the passengers board the plane. It’s also not limited to being out and about, as I’ve been known in my household to occasionally pause a movie if I spot something interesting on a character’s wrist. Needless to say, my watch-radar is always on. There are a few things that actually set this “radar” off. But for the most part, it’s design recognition. You know what you’re looking at, even when you just catch a glimpse of the watch from across the room. All the classic models and references have this going for them. A couple months back however, I must admit, I was stumped. A gentleman strolled into our Worn & Wound office and was looking to chat with someone from our editorial team. He walked into our headquarters, so surely he should have a watch on, right? So mid-conversation, I glanced over when the opportunity presented itself, and just visible outside of a denim shirt cuff, layered with a stone gray tweed overcoat, was a watch that I thought I recognized.But the more I looked, the more I got confused … and intrigued. “Definitely vintage,” I thought. But was it an IWC? A Universal Geneve? It was none of the above – it was actually something totally new. Turns out the gentleman visiting that day was Jesse Marchant, a New Yor...

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar SJX Watches
Casio nal Roman numerals.  While Feb 20, 2023

Hands On: IWC Portofino Complete Calendar

Last year, IWC reinvigorated the underrated Portofino line that’s long been overshadowed by the bestselling Pilot’s Watch and Portugieser. Historically one of the brand’s most classical offerings, the Portofino is best summarised as clean, almost minimalist, with the occasional Roman numerals.  While recent Portofino complications have been somewhat plain, the Portofino perpetual calendar made things a little more interesting. Now IWC is continuing with the theme in a more affordable manner with the Portofino Complete Calendar. Taking its design cues from the more complex perpetual, the Complete Calendar is slightly larger but mechanically simpler. And as a result of the entry-level pricing, it is is powered by the no-frills ValFleurier movement widely used by watch brands owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont, which naturally includes IWC.  The symmetrical dial The ValFleurier movement has been dressed up for the display back Initial thoughts For the longest time, IWC has emphasised two lines, Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, simply because they sell the best. At the same time, it has tried  to rejuvenate its other collections like the Ingenieuir and Aquatimer with little success. Last year it made tentative steps in reviving the Portofino collection with an all-new perpetual calendar. Simple in design, the Portofino perpetual doesn’t try to do too much – and for that reason it found some success as the brand’s entry-level perpetual calendar. Now IWC is ...

From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs Time+Tide
Feb 19, 2023

From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs

Before buying a watch it’s important to consider how it will fit into your life, as different watches may benefit some lifestyles over others. The contradictory trope of the “desk diver” is well known to describe a dive watch worn at an office job, but what if your job is less than conventional to say … ContinuedThe post From bank robber to worm picker, the best watches for the weirdest jobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! Worn & Wound
Citizen s Fully Lumed Promaster Feb 10, 2023

Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop!

Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. The post Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hublot Announces NFT Lottery for Latest Takashi Murakami Edition SJX Watches
Hublot Announces NFT Lottery Feb 8, 2023

Hublot Announces NFT Lottery for Latest Takashi Murakami Edition

A frequent partner of notable personalities ranging from artists to celebrity chefs, Hublot’s most notable collaboration is the partnership with Takashi Murakami, the Japanese contemporary artist whose “Superflat”, anime-inspired art has gained acclaim and spawned a commercial empire. Having two sold-out Murakami editions under its belt, Hublot now debuts a third, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow. More specifically, it’s a single unique wristwatch, along with a dozen more (slightly less) unique watches, for a total of 13. They will be sold via a lottery that can be entered only by owners of the non-fungible tokens (NFT) that were given to owners of the first two editions, the monochromatic original in black diamonds and its chromatic opposite, the transparent and technicolour Sapphire Rainbow. Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe (left) with Takashi Murakami at the launch event in New York Initial thoughts While Hublot puts out many collaboration editions, too many by my estimation, the Murakami watches stand out for being visually simple yet striking. And they have a whimsical aspect that captures Murakami’s style perfectly. The 13 unique editions combine the best of the prior two editions – the rainbow flower from the sapphire model with the all-black ceramic case. The monochromatic case is a perfect canvas for the rainbow flower, the essence of Murakami. And in terms of value, the Murakami watches – at least the first and cur...

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2023

Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends?

It was Henry Kissinger who famously claimed that “power is the ultimate aphrodisiac” and, given the philandering of countless politicians, it’s hard to argue with this assessment. In many cases, power does indeed seem to bestow an extra layer of sexual magnetism on plain men of sizeable influence. Yet when someone is not a recognisable … ContinuedThe post Is your expensive watch a turn-off for lovers and friends? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet makes Feb 3, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023

We have yet to lose novelty steam in 2023, so once again we have a fair bit of news from the week to recap. Vamos! Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet makes its first-ever debut in stainless steel Steel makes its first ever-debut in the Code 11.59 collection, resulting in a new lower CHF 21,000 entry … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: First-ever steel Code 11.59s, new Hublot x Murakami, Dubai Watch Week 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in Stainless Steel

At its release in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet created lots of buzz – some of it for the wrong reasons, with the design being panned as uninspiring. But Audemars Piguet (AP) stuck with the model and swiftly tweaked the formula, resulting in watches that were better received, including the recent Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel. Now the base models have received a facelift that does away with the plain dials of the originals, replacing them with a finely-patterned stamped dial. Available as either a chronograph or three-hander, the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is also in stainless steel, making it (slightly) more accessible. Initial thoughts The redesigned Code 11.59 is certainly more appealing than the original, with the dial giving it a level of visual detail absent from its predecessor. Fans of the original will like the new Code 11.59, and those on the fence will probably be persuaded as well. But anyone who disliked the original will not be swayed since it is essentially the same watch but in new attire. Although the dials are stamped, they offer a surprising level of detail. The pattern is intricate enough that I thought they were engraved with a CNC machine when I first saw them. The “smoked beige” dial And the one in blue To go with the new dial are redesigned hands and hour markers. Gone are the plain baton hands and markers with Arabic quarters, they have been replaced by baton hands and markers with more detail. The markers are fa...

Demystifying the mystery dial Time+Tide
Breguet s Mudges Feb 1, 2023

Demystifying the mystery dial

Many times, a horological invention is credited to a household watchmaking name. I bet that most of you won’t have heard of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, however. Among Breguets, Mudges and Danielses, his invention was less technically impressive, yet no less astonishing, which may partly explain his amazingly successful career as a magician. Following in the footsteps … ContinuedThe post Demystifying the mystery dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jan 31, 2023

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders

Only at Rolex can a watch dubbed a King be described as humble compared to other watches with less lofty but still commanding titles like Master. The Rolex Air-King, despite being the oldest existing model in the mega-brand’s star-studded lineup, has never attained the levels of mainstream popularity and collectability enjoyed by household-name watches like the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and (arguably) even the Yacht-Master. Rolex hopes to change that this year, however, making the newest version of the Air-King a headliner of its 2022 collection, unveiled this week at Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva. Aviation History The Rolex Air-King (technically Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King) traces its history all the way back to 1945, when it was launched as part of a trio of timepieces called the “Air Series” that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force in World War II, alongside the discontinued Air-Giant and Air-Tiger. The Air-King, the last survivor of that collection designed “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” went through a number of evolutions throughout the years. The original model’s 34mm case (considered large at the time, believe it or not), cream-colored dial and manual wind movement would eventually be replaced by the now-familiar design most recently updated in 2016: a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and ...

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747 Worn & Wound
Breitling Pays Tribute Jan 27, 2023

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747

When the Boeing 747 was revealed to the world in 1968, it instantly introduced a new era in air travel. Those in attendance, press and interested aviators alike, had no words for what they were looking at. The sheer size of the aircraft and its distinct upward curve above the flight deck was nothing like any other plane that was carrying passengers 30,000 feet up in the air at the time. It quickly became a coveted experience to travel in a Boeing 747, and that’s saying something considering this was a time where people got dressed up to fly in an airplane. Not like now, where sweatpants, a cozy hoodie, and noise canceling headphones are the norm. Flying back then was an event. The lore of the Boeing 747 only grew, as it was featured in many films including the 1973 James Bond flick, Live and Let Die. Even till this very day, the 747 is the aircraft of choice for the President of the United States. Introducing For The First Time Ever, The Boeing 747 But like all good things, they must come to an end. After 1,570 individual jets and 53 years of navigating the skies, the Boeing 747 has finally decided to retire. And to celebrate the original jumbo jet, Breitling has released a limited edition piece in partnership with Boeing called the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747. Breitling has a history that is deep rooted in aviation. Their very first designs, from dial layout to various complications, were created with pilots in mind. With both brands having a rich heritage i...

The Brew Metric Gets A Fabulous Gold Makeover Worn & Wound
Brew Metric Gets Jan 24, 2023

The Brew Metric Gets A Fabulous Gold Makeover

It’s safe to say that the Metric from our friends at Brew has struck a certain chord since its release in mid 2021. The watch is a perfect expression of the brand’s retro-modern design forward sensibilities, and it happens to be utterly fantastic on the wrist. We’ve seen a few other colorways pop up since its introduction, and at less than $500, supply can never never seem to keep up with demand. Today, the Brew Metric welcomes its chicest colorway to date: gold. The Metric Gold touts a full gold plated case and bracelet with a striking black dial beset with gold hands and markers.  The Brew Metric Gold retains the 36mm x 41.5mm case dimensions (10.75mm in thickness) that we loved in the earlier variants, and embraces a clean pure gold and black colorway that works shockingly well in this design, which also did pretty well in its color-forward sporty guise. The dial design has been altered slightly, welcoming Arabic numerals in the rehaut marking each 5 minute segment. Gone is the subtle callout between the 25 and 35 second mark, which was a nod to the ideal brewing time for an espresso shot. Inside, Brew is using the hybrid vk68 meca-quartz chronograph, with a running seconds hand at 6 o’clock, and a minute totalizer at 9 o’clock. The TV shaped dial section is completely covered with a sapphire crystal, which is a welcome touch in this price range. A polished bevel along the side of the case meets the integrated(ish) flat link bracelet creating something of a s...