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My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction Time+Tide
Oct 20, 2022

My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction

At Time+Tide, we love a good auction. The thrill of the bids and the hunt for the bargains make them by far the most exciting way to go watch shopping, and there’s often some interesting and alluring products lining the catalogues. Zach and Ricardo have previously had their turns with Ineichen, but now it’s my … ContinuedThe post My top 5 picks from the latest Ineichen auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2022

The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more

One of life’s great ironies is that the pursuit of perfection often leads to disappointment, even when it is achieved. Your average smartphone may have perfected the art of timekeeping, but a watch enthusiast could never be satisfied with that alone. Digital watches like G-SHOCKs may also have that functionality, but we still wouldn’t wear … ContinuedThe post The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulova Marine Star Series C divers meld style with rugged capability Time+Tide
Bulova Marine Star Series C Oct 19, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Bulova Marine Star Series C divers meld style with rugged capability

Bulova’s Marine Star line has provided the brand’s answer to a fashionable, sporty watch for decades. They’re not super-tough, military-style divers. But nor are they the sort of 50-metre water-resistant watches that many of us avoid. Instead their offerings sit comfortably in the middle of that spectrum, appealing to those of us that want a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulova Marine Star Series C divers meld style with rugged capability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Monochromatic Top Gun’ Oct 19, 2022

Exhibition: IWC ‘Monochromatic Top Gun’ in Singapore

Twenty-twenty two has been all about the Pilot’s Watch for IWC, but with a particular focus on materials, including coloured ceramics and titanium. All that materials tech, watchmaking, and military provenance is now on show in Singapore with Monochromatic Top Gun. Taking place from October 22-30, 2022, the exhibition showcases the brand’s aviator’s watches – including rarely-seen watches made for actual military pilots – along with its watchmaking knowhow in a series of classes and talks. The centrepiece of the exhibition is the all-ceramic line of Pilot’s Watches named after the US Navy’s fight jet academy, Top Gun. Historically available only in black, the Top Gun collection has more recently become a platform for IWC to roll out a range of coloured ceramics. Naturally the show includes the year’s new launches, namely the Top Gun chronographs in forest green or white ceramic. Earlier models such as the Miramar with its sand-coloured ceramic case are also on show, along with the quintessential all-black version. Notably, the exhibition also includes 15 military-issue watches, each bearing a unit insignia on the dial, in perhaps its most intriguing section. Rarely seen since they are only available to members of the individual air force and navy units, such watches reflect the fact that the Schaffhausen watchmaker is the sole official supplier of watches to the US Navy and Marine Corps. As a result, IWC has created watches for some 350 squadrons, includin...

Cheap and cheerful – 5 affordable summer watches Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2022

Cheap and cheerful – 5 affordable summer watches

I’m certain that I’m not only speaking for myself when I say that many are looking forward to putting the bleak days of Melbourne winter behind. While this also means a goodbye to winter layering in favour of linen and seersucker, it’s also a hello to funky, bright watches. I could easily put together a … ContinuedThe post Cheap and cheerful – 5 affordable summer watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble SJX Watches
Cartier Re)Introduces Oct 17, 2022

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Pebble

Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Bulgari, Chopard, Or Armin Strom? Quill & Pad
Armin Strom ? Now we are Oct 16, 2022

Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Bulgari, Chopard, Or Armin Strom?

Now we are onto the big bad boys of the GPHG. Mechanical Exception is where we put the most mechanically incredible watches head to head, and the name of the game is horological creativity. Aesthetics help but a wild, avant-garde watch can easily win this category because there is no limit. So how does our panel choose?

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train” Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Oct 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train”

When people call watches “art” it may seem like fluff and romance. Prior to smartphones and quartz timekeepers, mechanical watches were known as tools – the only means to track the time portably. Today, the art of watchmaking is primarily acknowledged due to the obsolescence of wristwatches, the luxurious maintenance of a traditional craft and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President Time+Tide
Richard Mille there These are snapshots Oct 15, 2022

Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President

Celebrity watchspotting can be a bit trivial at times – a Royal Oak here, a Richard Mille there. These are snapshots of individuals who have made it and have the means and access to strap any watch to their wrist that they desire. Which is why it is that much more interesting to hear the … ContinuedThe post Kid Cudi has a bar mitzvah to thank for his gold Rolex Day-Date President appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Double world champ Max Verstappen on why his TAG Heuer Monaco is his “lucky charm” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Oct 14, 2022

VIDEO: Double world champ Max Verstappen on why his TAG Heuer Monaco is his “lucky charm”

Last weekend, Max Verstappen joined the pantheon of multiple world-champ greats. Winning the title once may be a hugely impressive accomplishment, but out of 34 F1 champions, only half have been able to repeat the feat. Though touted as a hot-headed teen upon his entry into the sport, Max has matured into a clinical, calm and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Double world champ Max Verstappen on why his TAG Heuer Monaco is his “lucky charm” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Oct 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph

Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Being ‘in the hangar’ with Oris and Wings of Hope really drove home the importance of their work Time+Tide
Oris Oct 14, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Being ‘in the hangar’ with Oris and Wings of Hope really drove home the importance of their work

This week I once again spent more time away and in airports. Normally on a press trip I travel for the launch or preview of a watch. This experience, however, was unique in that my trip to St. Louis with Oris was less about product and more about philanthropy. My visit centred around Wings of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Being ‘in the hangar’ with Oris and Wings of Hope really drove home the importance of their work appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko  Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 Oct 13, 2022

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Oct 13, 2022

Breguet Introduces the Reine de Naples 8918 in Black Enamel

Inspired by a long-lost wristwatch saying to 1812 that might have been the first-ever wristwatch, the Reine de Naples is Breguet’s signature watch for ladies. Quirky in form but elegant, the model is available in numerous iterations, but the latest is unusually stark but no less graceful: the Reine de Naples 8918 with a glossy black enamel dial. Like the rest of the line, the new 8918 has its roots in the 19th century. Invented as jewellery that happened to tell the time, wristwatches of the period were fashionable accessories. One of the earliest known examples was an egg-shaped bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, the younger sister of Napoleon and the Queen of Naples – reine de Naples in French. Initial thoughts Perhaps one of the most distinctive ladies’ watches on the market today, the Reine de Naples gets less attention than it deserves for a variety of reasons, including Breguet’s restrained marketing and the fact that brands like Cartier have more famous form watches. But the history and visual appeal of the Reine de Naples, as well as Breguet’s overall quality, makes it noteworthy. The 8918 in black enamel preserves the essence of the model, but it instantly stands out for its high-contrast, monochromatic palette. But it’s not merely a pretty face, for the execution is also appealing since it’s fired enamel in black, an uncommon colour for the material. Grand feu enamel dials are relatively uncommon in ladies’ watches, so B...

INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun Time+Tide
Oct 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun

One of my first hands-on reviews for Time+Tide in early 2020 was the William Wood Red Watch, and I was definitely a fan. The way that the brand were able to weave in Easter eggs that told their story and built an identity was unlike anything I’d seen from other companies at the time, and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The William Wood Fearless collection delivers enhanced wearability and a sense of fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 Time+Tide
Nomos Club Sport neomatik 37 Oct 12, 2022

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37

We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons Quill & Pad
Oct 11, 2022

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons

Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.