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Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Sep 30, 2022

Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches

Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential pilot's chronograph watch as well as one of the most instantly recognizable Swiss watches in the world. Aimed exclusively at professional pilots in its earliest versions, the Navitimer was instrumental in popularizing the pilot's watch genre for the general public, and it remains, in all of its various sizes, colorways, and aesthetic executions, the flagship of Breitling's modern-day collection. Here is the story behind the Breitling Navitimer and how it evolved into an icon of its field, along with an overview of Navitimers on the market today. The First Family of Chronographs (1884) German immigrant Léon Breitling (below, left) founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in Saint-Imier, Switzerland in 1884, devoted to producing precise stopwatches and other timing devices for use in military and industrial fields as well as competitive sports. The rise of both the automobile and the airplane in the early 20th century provided the inspiration for Breitling and his son Gaston, who took over the firm in 1914, to produce a number of historic innovations, several of them patented, that would influence the world of horology going forward. Léon launched one of the first timepieces with an eight-day power reserve in 1893, and a chronograph with an unprecedented ⅖-second accuracy in 1896. Gaston (below, center) is renowned today as the inventor of the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher, separ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum Time+Tide
Longines Sep 30, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum

Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Time+Tide
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Imagine Sep 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic

Imagine you’re a watch brand. If you had a 20 year old watch model in your catalogue, what would you do? How would you breathe new life into it so that both fans of the brand, and those you’re trying to attract, feel moved? This is not an easy task and it is one that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Sep 29, 2022

Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet

The story of the Speedmaster Professional being the Moonwatch has been told a tiring number of times. The story of the Mars Watch however, is much more of a novelty. First released in 1998, the Speedmaster X-33 was designed by Omega in collaboration with the USN Blue Angels and USAF Thunderbirds, and has since seen … ContinuedThe post Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack Time+Tide
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph Sep 29, 2022

VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack

When we think of dive watches, our minds typically wander to Swiss and Japanese creations. But do not sleep on the Germans, they definitely know their way around a dive watch as well. Glashütte Original caught the attention of sports watch enthusiasts looking for something different when they unveiled their SeaQ diver, a revival of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition Time+Tide
Sep 28, 2022

What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition

This past weekend, Dubai Watch Week bought its Horology Forum to the city of New York. There, over the course of three days, the local watch community was treated to multiple panels, debates, masterclasses in photography and even a few watch clinics. Yet much as this writer enjoyed all the content and experiences, the side … ContinuedThe post What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 28, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue

It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...

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INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN Time+Tide
Mühle Glashütte Sep 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN

Mühle-Glashütte aren’t a brand that most people are very familiar with, but the German brand is always full of surprises at every turn. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a staple of their tool watch collection, boasting seafaring capability alongside a sophisticated, retro-futuristic case shape. Now, after 20 years of its use by the German Maritime Search … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2022

Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz?

Watch shopping on a budget can be extremely frustrating, not least because of watch media outlets like ours that routinely describe watches costing well over $1,000 as “affordable” or “attainable”. The truth is that affordability is all relative, and the lower your budget, the more decisions there are to make. Competition has never been tougher … ContinuedThe post Should you buy a low-end mechanical or a high-end quartz? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor Time+Tide
Bulova Parking Meter delivers Sep 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor

“I’m going to the archives”. If a movie about the current state of the watch industry were to be released, that would be the main character’s catchphrase. In this last decade, we’ve seen multiple brands go to the creations of their past in search of inspiration for their present. And with such rich histories, who … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Bulova Parking Meter delivers that wheel good factor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture Sep 24, 2022

In-Depth: Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

A hallmark of Greubel Forsey’s unique brand of watchmaking is its inclined, high-speed tourbillon that completes two and a half revolutions per minute. In fact, it was the first tourbillon by Greubel Forsey (GF) when the brand made its debut in 2004. Almost two decades on, the brand’s quintessential regulator has been installed in something entirely different with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the inclined tourbillon remains, the Architecture is almost entirely new as a watch, comprising a brand-new case design containing a reconstructed movement – that is a tangible realisation of architecture – which together form a cohesive whole. Initial thoughts The Architecture may seem like just another GF sports watch at first sight, so one might dismiss it as being merely a repurposed movement modified to fit into the brand’s bestselling sports watch case. But it is more than that. The inclined tourbillon has been transformed into something refreshingly novel where the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. And it manages to be novel despite high-end sports watches being increasingly common. In short, it’s one of the most notable watches in the GF line-up. Despite the familiar mechanics of the tourbillon, the details of the movement have been comprehensively reimagined to emphasise the brand’s distinctive approach to movement construction, one that prizes three-dimensionality in design matched with impeccable finishing. This incremental improv...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 22, 2022

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue

As one of the world’s biggest watch retailers, Bucherer has long enjoyed unique relationships with leading watchmakers. Starting in 2016, Bucherer commissioned a series of special editions from a diversity of brands, including the well-known Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue. Girard-Perregaux (GP) is the latest marque to create a special run for the Swiss retailer with the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges Bucherer Blue. This variant of GP’s trademark complication once again is inspired by the retailer’s corporate colour: instead of a flat black in the standard version of the watch, the titanium bridges of the movement are highlighted in dark blue. Initial thoughts As with most of the Bucherer’s other editions, the new Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges is a change in livery, but one that transforms the feel of the watch. Going from a muted black to a vibrant blue is a simple tweak, but one that adds to the visual appeal by making the architecture of the movement more apparent. The blue treatment makes the bridges stand out and emphasise their graceful, arched form, a quality that is less obvious in the standard version because of its near-monochromatic finish. The standard version with its black bridges All that makes for a contemporary look that’s more striking, a perfect fit for a calibre that’s essentially an ultra-modern take on a concept dating to 1860. At the same time, the modern yet restrained aesthetic is appropriate given Bucherer’s status as ...

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My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Sep 22, 2022

My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction

Running until October 1, the Ineichen Auctioneers Vintage watch auction consists of 72 lots of old-school goodness. It features everything from Patek Philippe to Audemars Piguet and beautiful dress watches to classic sport references. With so much up for grabs, I decided to pick five lots that spoke to me. Five watches, that if I … ContinuedThe post My top five picks from the Ineichen Vintage Wristwatch auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes Sep 21, 2022

VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability

When Omega’s eye turned towards their 1957 trilogy of sports watches, the reissued vintage watch trend was sky-high, but not yet at its peak. The last few years have seen brands like Omega perfecting the art of the retro, figuring out which elements needed updating and which ones were best kept in their original state. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Slimmer than the Moonwatch – the new Omega Speedmaster ’57 makes a giant leap towards wearability appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge Time+Tide
Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened Sep 20, 2022

For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge

First released in 1962, the Rado DiaStar Original is one kooky watch design. Recognisable at a glance thanks to its striking, oval case, it exudes a retro-futuristic vibe – the sort of watch you can imagine George Jetson wearing in his flying car. But this quirky veneer disguises it’s horological significance.  The DiaStar is, in … ContinuedThe post For its 60th birthday, the Rado DiaStar Original gets sharpened up with a fresh, contemporary edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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