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Review: Longines impresses with the stunning, new Heritage Silver Arrow
We take a look at perhaps one of our favourite watches of 2021 - the incredibly handsome and elegant Longines Silver Arrow.
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Revolution
The Origins of Independent Watchmaking
The English legacy in watchmaking and its enduring significance through the work of the pioneers.
Time+Tide
The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people
Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Watches with a remontoire: we recommend six of the best
This is the list our Chief Editor fears. Find out why when he picks the top 6 watches which feature the remontoire d'egalite as a constant force system.
Quill & Pad
The Sonnerie Souveraine By F.P. Journe: A Legend In Its Own Time – Reprise
One of the most incredible timepieces François-Paul Journe has ever created is the Sonnerie Souveraine. This chiming masterpiece took six years to develop and warranted ten patents. Joshua Munchow revisits the reasons why this masterpiece and its maker are legends in their own time, while Ian Skellern provides original photography and video of the stainless steel-encased grande sonnerie.
Time+Tide
The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy…
G-Shock is an industry leader in super fun and super accessible collaboration pieces. They love marrying their trustworthy designs with popular culture and, if you love beer and horology, their latest limited-edition watch is just for you. The only catch to the G-Shock x Budweiser Limited Edition is that you have to be of drinking … ContinuedThe post The G-Shock you need to be of drinking age to buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
#Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops
Within seven years of its debut in 2017, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is already a modern-day classic, its slender and aggressively architectural shape transforming the finesse of the O.G Octo from 2012. Every Octo Finissimo with its paper-thin movement is a feat of engineering, akin to the art of building a scale model galleon in … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The casual luxury of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium GMT Chronograph with Louis Vuitton high tops appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watches & Wonders: People’s Choice Awards – The Darkest Horse
Just to recap: in the wake of Watches & Wonders, watch channel founders Wei Koh of Revolution, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello, Frank Geelen of Monochrome, and our very own Andrew McUtchen of Time+Tide came together to talk watches. They selected their top watches in four different categories and then asked viewers to choose their pick … ContinuedThe post Watches & Wonders: People’s Choice Awards – The Darkest Horse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The new 2021 Cloche de Cartier
The watch is classically Cartier, and has a novel case shape which its Prive line is known for. It is priced at S$39,400 in gold and S$44,600 in platinum and is limited to 100 pieces per model. The small production number and the novel case shape is the biggest sell point of the watch, but in comparison, a gold Tank Louis Cartier with the same movement is approximately 40% less expensive.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds: The Hottest Green Dial Of 2021
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds with green dial capitalizes on the 2021 green trend and is one of the special watches celebrating the 90-year anniversary of the Reverso. It’s a stunning timepiece with a vintage-inspired dial featuring a lacquered green sunray pattern, faceted hour markers, dauphine-style hands, and a large subsidiary seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Here Bhanu Chopra runs through the reasons for considering a purchase.
SJX Watches
Zodiac Introduces the Super Sea Wolf Aquamarine Dream
Zodiac has in recent years revived most of its best-known sports watches, namely the Sea Wolf divers produced from the 1950s to the 1970s. Appealing because they are reassuringly retro and eminently affordable, the Sea Wolf remakes are mostly offered in the same colours as the vintage originals were. But now Zodiac has just debuted the Super Sea Wolf Aquamarine Dream, a special edition conceived in collaboration with Ariel Adams, the founder of American watch magazine aBlogtoWatch. Inspired by the marine colours of Nassau during a 2019 trip to the Bahamas, Ariel’s creation is rendered in several shades of green-blue, right down to the hue of Super-Luminova and the “tropic” style rubber strap. Initial thoughts Ariel founded aBlogtoWatch (ABTW) in 2007, making him a watch-blog pioneer. I’ve known Ariel for about a decade or so and respect him for his frank, accessible approaching to covering watches. Granted, I don’t always agree with his opinion, but certainly appreciate the unpretentious style of ABTW, especially Ariel’s editorials and podcasts. Priced at just under US$1,500, the Aquamarine Dream combines cheerful and vintage-inspired looks along with an accessible price tag – an honest product I would expect from Ariel. It reminds me of another recent remake that I like, the Longines BigEye in titanium, which also preserves the design of the vintage original but adds a healthy dose of modern colour and texture. Notably, it is not a limited edition, and al...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The function forward Grand Seiko SBGX335
Grand Seiko don’t make dainty dive watches. Instead, the Japanese watchmaker follows their design philosophy of blending form and function in a way that doesn’t compromise either, with large, legible underwater tool watches that can hold up against anything you’re likely to do with them. One great example is the Grand Seiko SBGX335, a quartz … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The function forward Grand Seiko SBGX335 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph provides twice the functionality at half the cost
Editor’s note: Mido is yet another brand that is not widely accessible to Aussies. The brand may be familiar to many, but finding it in store or from a reputable online seller isn’t always easy. We are really happy to let all Australian readers know that we are now offering over 70 models in our … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Mido Ocean Star Chronograph provides twice the functionality at half the cost appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor just debuted the Black Bay Ceramic, an appealing watch that is compelling value. I like it, but it is a well-executed dive watch in black ceramic – not majorly significant in the grander scheme of things. But actually it is significant – shrewd and strategic in its concept, and a neat illustration of Tudor’s clever and patent strategy. Why? The answer lies in the industry landscape. Tudor’s parent is Rolex, the biggest luxury-watch brand in the world. According to Morgan Stanley estimates published in March 2021, Rolex sold almost CHF8 billion of watches at retail value in 2020. The equivalent number at Omega was a little under CHF3 billion, making it the second-largest luxury-watch brand. In the same report, Morgan Stanley pegged the retail-value sales for Tudor at CHF633 million, the result of having enjoyed double-digit growth for several years. Though it’s a modest number relative to Rolex and Omega, it is substantial. The figure puts Tudor a hair below Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CHF681 million, and bigger than Panerai’s CHF520 million. Tudor’s solid growth is attributable to many factors, most of which are encapsulated in the Black Bay Ceramic. Most obvious are the historically-inspired and thoughtful design, and of course the strong value proposition it represents. But more than that it is a masterstroke. Specifically, the METAS certification that makes the Black Bay Ceramic a Master Chronometer is a brilliant move. To be clear, Tudor officially has no...
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New: Patek Philippe refreshes the Aquanaut lineup
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 2021 lineup gets a fresh set of novelties. A new men's chronograph in white gold, and 5 new ladies Luce watches are released.
Revolution
Patek Philippe Introduces Its First Complicated Quartz Wristwatch: the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time Ref. 5269/200R
Patek Philippe introduces its first complicated quartz watch, the Aquanaut Luce Travel Time, and new extensions for the time-only Aquanaut Luce & Chronograph
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Unveils the Aquanaut Chronograph in 18k White Gold
First introduced in 2018 in the lively colours of grey and orange, the Aquanaut Chronograph ref. 5968A was a surprising execution from a brand typically conservative in style. Patek Philippe now expands the model line with the Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G in white gold, available in either midnight blue (ref. 5968G-001) or khaki green (ref. 5968G-010). Initial thoughts The new Aquanaut Chronograph iterates an existing model by drawing on elements from other Aquanauts. The midnight blue and khaki green dials are familiar because they are found on the time-only Aquanaut Ref. 5168G that’s also in white gold. Dial and case metal aside, the new chronographs are identical to the ref. 5968A of three years ago. Although the colourways aren’t novel, they are good looking, conveying a contemporary aesthetic that complements the sporty nature of the Aquanaut Chronograph. The bright colours, juxtaposed against the case of white gold – traditionally a metal for formal occasions – exemplifies the modern concept of a sports watch where it’s more luxury than sport. Between the two, my pick would be the midnight blue: its gradient finish is striking, and better reflects the elegance and historical style that are quintessentially Patek Philippe. My pick out of the two The retail price of the new chronograph is a hefty US$69,190, which is about 50% more than the steel version. Though steep, the increment is conventional for a precious metal case relative to steel. But given th...
Time+Tide
SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900
As A$AP Ferg rapped in his 2017 track Plain Jane, “Ferg is the name, Ben Baller did the chain,” solidifying the LA jeweller Ben Baller as the goldsmith of choice for hip-hop royalty. Ben has made jewellery for everyone who’s anyone, including Drake, Kanye West, Nas, The Weeknd, Snoop Dogg and Mariah Carey. He made the … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko Reinterprets the “62MAS” and “Turtle” (Again)
Twenty-twenty marked 55 years since Seiko’s first foray into dive watches, which was the ref. 6217 “62MAS” of 1965. Naturally, it introduced myriad vintage remakes to mark the occasion – not only of the “62MAS” but also other dive watches of the era like the ref. 6105 “Turtle”. A year on, Seiko continues with a pair of remakes: the 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS” (ref. SPB239) and the 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation “Turtle” (ref. SPB237), both powered by the mid-range 6R35 movement, making them affordable. The “6105” remake with a textured grey dial Initial thoughts There have been numerous remakes of Seiko dive watches, including several limited editions – but all are practical, affordable watches, so more isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The result is a variety of iterated case and dial combinations with something for almost everyone. The new models are as good looking as their immediate predecessors, since they are essentially alike save for minor tweaks, namely the woven-fabric strap and dial colour. The “62MAS” remake with a brown “sunburst” dial Each model is delivered with a pair of NATO-style fabric straps that add a bit of vintage charm to the look, especially compared to the rubber straps usually found on dive watches. Although the fabric straps are merely, well, fabric straps, they are special. The straps are braided with the technique known as seichu, traditionally used to weave obijime, the co...
Quill & Pad
Bovet And Daniil Medvedev: Relationships Make One Of The Best Tennis Players In The World
In 2019 Bovet made a wonderful catch when the Swiss brand announced that it had signed then world number five tennis player Daniil Medvedev. Since then Medvedev has risen to number two in the rankings and is happily wearing a Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Elizabeth Doerr shares his story here.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist
The new Longines Silver Arrow makes me think we’re due for a strong comeback of the functional steel dress watch. Clean-cut with a proportionate, 38.5mm case that invokes a ’50s Mad Men vibe, it feels fresh in our niche horological world, saturated as it is with vintage divers and sports-watch largesse. The Silver Arrow achieves … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Silver Arrow offers ’50s elegance with an architectural twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Zoom-in with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid. The most important lessons.
We caught up with Wilhelm Schmid, CEO of A. Lange & Söhne to discuss his last decade in office as the chief, and what his future plans are for the maison.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Know your Movements: In-Depth with the Chronograph Venus 170
The Venus 170 was mass-produced out of the need for supplying a chronograph capable of being dressed-up or dressed down and across all markets.
Revolution
Introducing the URWERK UR-105 TTH “Tantalum Hull”
URWERK announces the end of series edition of their UR-105 CT, with the UR-105 TTH “Tantalum Hull”
SJX Watches
Urwerk Debuts the Tantalum Swansong for the UR-105
Launched in 2014 as a successor to the foundational UR-103, the UR-105 was a more elaborate version of Urwerk’s satellite-disc, wandering-hours watch. After a seven-year run – it’s been replaced by the entry-level UR-100 – the UR-105 series will now be retired. Urwerk is giving the model a grand send-off with the UR-105 TTH, which has the front plate and lid of its case made of tantalum, the bluish-grey metal that Urwerk has only used in one other instance with the UR-110 TTH. Based the UR-105 CT Streamliner with its characteristic hinged lid, the UR-105 TTH is all about its case material. A dense metal with a distinctive colour that’s used for surgical implants, turbine blades, and even artillery shells, tantalum is difficult to machine and finish due to its hardness. Consequently, while tantalum has been used for watch cases since the 1990s, but it is uncommon. Urwerk is one of a handful of brands, alongside Omega and F.P. Journe, to use the metal for a watch case. Initial thoughts All good things must come to an end, and Urwerk is closing the chapter with aplomb. With the distinctive hue of tantalum, the case fits the sci-fi industrial spirit of the brand well. Striking and futuristic, the UR-105 is sleek in tantalum. The metal will make it substantially heavier than the standard steel version of the UR-105, which would make it less easily wearable. Priced at CHF77,000, or about US$86,000, the UR-105 TTH is 20% more expensive the base-model UR-105 CT i...
Time+Tide
NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack
First up, an introduction as to how this column is going to run and for that a high-end car metaphor is required. The majority of the timepieces that fill this site can, without too much of a stretch, be equated to wrist Ferraris, horological McLarens, an Aston Martin with tourbillons – you get the picture. … ContinuedThe post NEW COLUMN – Cheap Bastard: The Breda Of The Pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Leading the charge: Kevin Pietersen on saving rhinos and the Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI
Kevin Pietersen was always a box-office cricketer with his swashbuckling, front-foot style making him one of England’s most gifted batsmen. During the course of making more than 8000 Test runs, including 23 centuries, the man known as “KP” faced down some devastating bowlers. “Shoaib Akhtar was pretty fast and Mitchell Johnson bowled that fast series … ContinuedThe post Leading the charge: Kevin Pietersen on saving rhinos and the Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic
Tudor hit it out of the park at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the surprising pair of precious-metal Fifty Eights (in 18k gold as well as sterling silver), but it’s clear the brand is not done with the year yet. Tudor has just taken the covers off the Black Bay Ceramic. The new 41 mm diver is the brand’s first regular-production dive watch with a ceramic case, but more significant is the fact that this is Tudor’s first watch to obtain METAS certification, making it a Master Chronometer. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Ceramic is a surprise. Tudor hinted at a new launch recently, but given it just announced a partnership with French Navy, or Marine Nationale, I was expecting an “MN” dive watch with blue dial. That said, it was inevitable a ceramic dive watch was in the pipeline after. For one, the brand already had a ceramic case chronograph in the catalogue with the usually overlooked the Fastrider Black Shield. And more importantly, the unique Black Bay Ceramic One – essentially the forerunner of the Black Bay Ceramic – sold for CHF350,000 at charity auction Only Watch 2019. The Black Bay Ceramic One from 2019 The Black Bay Ceramic While inevitable, the Black Bay Ceramic is still very much welcome. Its aesthetic is a good one, managing to feel contemporary despite the all-black aesthetic having had its heyday about decade ago. I would have hoped for a 39 mm Fifty-Eight case, instead of the 41 mm that it is, but its dark colours will make the case appear sma...
Revolution
Introducing the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
On the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the iconic American 1921, Vacheron Constantin faithfully recreates the watch as if in 1921
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later
As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...